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/ 

•vu S, \v<^ 

REPORT 

TO THE 

PRESIDENT OF THE UNITED STATES 

OF THE 

Action of the Navy Department in the matter of the disaster to the United 
States exploring expedition toicard the north pole , accompanied by a 
report of the examination of the rescued party, &c. 



SREMITTED BY THE SECRETARY OF THE NAVY. 


Navy Department, 

Washington , June 17, 1873. 

To the President: 

Sir : On receiving information of the arrival of the rescued portion 
of the crew of the Polaris at Saint John’s, Newfoundland, I determined, 
in the absence of direct regular communication with that port, to send, 
as has been before reported to you, the United States steamer Frolic, 
then lying at New York, to bring them to the United States. 

As it was obviously proper, in view of the prompt and responsible 
action which might be required, that the Government should, as soon 
as possible, be in possession of the fullest and most reliable information 
upon all the circumstances of the case, the Frolic was ordered to bring 
directly to Washington all the persons having personal knowledge on 
the subject. 

On their arrival here, to the end that their knowledge might be accu¬ 
rately and fully elicited, judged of, and preserved, not only for the guid¬ 
ance of the Government but for the benefit of science and the informa¬ 
tion of the world, I associated with myself for their examination Com¬ 
modore William Reynolds, the senior officer of the Navy Department, 
himself an old explorer; Professor Spencer F. Baird, of the Smithsonian 
Institution, a distinguished scientist, and member of the National 
Academy, who had taken great interest in the expedition, and prepared 
some of the scientific instruments for it; and Captain H. W. Howgate, 
of the Army signal service, from which corps Mr. Meyer had been 
detailed as meteorologist of the expedition. 

In the course of the examination, which occupied six days, we have 
taken separately and fully, upon all the points involved upon which 
* they had, or professed to have, knowledge, the statement and examina- 


I 




II 


tion of each adult individual of the party who could understand or 
speak any English, including all of the persons rescued, excepting the 
wife of Hans Christian and the children. 

These statements and examinations were carefully taken down in 
short hand at the time, and are now, together with the diaries kept by 
some of the party on the ice, and a diary of the cruise of the Polaris, 
kept in German by Hermann Siemans, one of the seamen remaining on 
board, and picked up on the ice after the separation from the ship, be¬ 
ing rapidly printed, the bulk of them already in type. 

A detailed statement of the results arrived at will be found in the re¬ 
port signed by myself and all the gentlemen associated with me, wdiich 
is herewith inclosed, and to which is annexed a copy of the last dis¬ 
patch of Captain Hall, made from what is apparently the original draft, 
in his own handwriting, found among his personal papers, in his writ¬ 
ing-desk, which was preserved on the ice by Esquimaux Joe, and by 
him delivered to me in the presence of the board. It is accompanied 
also by an outline-map, prepared by Mr. Meyer, giving a general out¬ 
line of the geographical results. 

This report is made direct^ 7 to yourself, as the person under whose 
orders the expedition was organized, and 1 have myself signed it, con¬ 
curring as I do in all its statements and conclusions. In some of the 
testimony as given will be found some statements of facts, and several 
strong expressions of feeling on the part of some of the witnesses 
against the officer remaining in command of the ship after the death 
of Captain Hall. 

These I feel great reluctance to publish while the person referred to 
is absent in the discharge of dangerous and responsible duty; but I am 
constrained to believe that it is better for him, and will be more satis¬ 
factory to his friends, as well as to the friends of those still on board of 
the Polaris, that they should be published as they were given, rather 
than that their suppression should be made the foundation of sensa¬ 
tional and alarming reports in no degree justified by the real facts. 

It must, however, be clearly understood that in permitting this pub¬ 
lication the Department neither makes nor declares any judgment 
against Mr. Buddington, who is still absent in the midst of dangers, and 
has had no opportunity for defense or explanation. 

The facts show that though he was perhaps wanting in enthusiasm 
for the grand objects of the expedition, and at times grossly lax in dis¬ 
cipline, and though he differed in judgment from others as to the pos¬ 
sibility, safety, and propriety of taking the ship farther north, yet he is 
an experienced and careful navigator, and when not affected by liquor, 
of which there remained none on board at the time of the separation, a 
competent and safe commander. 

I concur fully in the statements of the report as to the probable con¬ 
dition and situation of the ship, and the propriety of taking prompt 
measures for her efficient relief. Such relief can only be afforded 


Ill 


safely and surely by means of an expedition prepared to encounter the 
dangers of the arctic circle, iu a ship adapted for the purpose, and built 
and fitted to contend with large bodies of ice. 

It is known that there is no such ship ready at hand in either our 
naval or merchant service. Indeed, it is believed that there are none 
such in existence except among the sealing-fleet of Newfoundland. A 
vessel of this fleet, sailing as they do under a foreign register, can only 
be used for the purpose of an expedition organized and sailing under 
our own flag by being purchased and put iu commission by the Navy 
Department. 

In view of all these facts, and the further and pressing consideration 
that any measures of relief to be effective must be taken at once, I have 
already begun to carry out the suggestions of the board by giving pre¬ 
paratory orders to the United States steamer Juniata, now at New York, 
to proceed, at the earliest practicable moment, to Disco, and if possible 
to Upernavik, for the purpose of carrying forward the necessary coal 
and supplies, communicating with the authorities of Greenland, obtain¬ 
ing information, and, if practicable, sending forward some word of en¬ 
couragement to those on board the Polaris. This last will most likely 
be impossible, but we will not fail to attempt it. 

I also propose to fit out at once an expedition of relief, to be sent to 
Northumberland Island, where the Polaris was last seen,iu the Tigress, 
a sealing-steamer of the fleet referred to, of about 200 tons burden, 
built and fitted to contend with the ice, and the same ship by which the 
persons now here were rescued. 

This ship, which is already on her way to New York, I propose, with 
your assent, to purchase and immediately strengthen, if necessary, and 
fit out for the service required. 

The proposed expedition will be purely naval, experience having con¬ 
firmed me iu the conviction that there is little of either successor safety 
in any trying, dangerous, and distant expedition which is not organized, 
prosecuted, and controlled under the sanctions of military discipline. 

Captain Tyson, all the rescued seamen of the Polaris, and Esquimaux 
Joe will accompany the expedition ; all of them declaring themselves 
ready and willing to return for the rescue of their comrades and to 
bring out their old ship. 

The measures proposed will, of course, impose some expenditure upon 
the naval appropriations and responsibility upon the Navy Department. 
But those appropriations cannot, I think, be expended more fittingly or 
more in accordance with the feelings of our people, and whatever 
responsibility is incurred by this act of imperative public duty and 
national humanity I am neither authorized to evade nor unwilling to 
assume. 

Very respectfully, your obedient servant, 

GEO. M. BOBESON, 

Secretary of the Navy, 


IV 


Washington, D. 0., June 1G, 1873. 

To the President : 

The undersigned having been present at and taken part in the full 
and careful examination of Mr. George E. Tyson, assistant navigator; 
Frederick Meyer, meteorologist; J. W. C. Kruger, G. W. Linguist, Fred¬ 
erick Auting, Peter Johnson, Frederick Jamka, and William Linde- 
mann, seamen ; and John Herron, steward; William Jackson, cook; 
and Joe, Hannah, and Hans, Esquimaux, all late of the steamer Polaris, 
and, with the exception of the wife of Hans and five children, compris¬ 
ing the party which was separated from her on the ice in October last, 
and picked up off the coast of Labrador on April 30, of this year, by the 
British sealing-steamer Tigress, give the following as the result of 
their investigation: 

The Polaris left Disco on the 17th of August, 1871, where she parted 
company from the Congress, arriving at Upernavik the next day. At 
this port she took on board some dogs, seal and dog skins, and a small 
quantity of coal, and shipped Hans, Hendrick, or Christian, Esqui¬ 
maux, who had been with Drs. Kane and Hays, and the wife of Haus 
and three children. It was expected that Jensen, who had also accom¬ 
panied Dr. Hays, would join the Polaris at Tessuisak. 

Leaving Upernavik, the Polaris touched at Tessuisak, and there pro¬ 
cured more dogs and a small quantity of ready-made skin clothing, but 
Jensen did not go with the expedition. 

Leaving Tessuisak on the 24th, she proceeded northward under steam, 
passing through Smith’s Sound and Kennedy Channel, with very little 
delay or obstruction from the ice. 

Near Cape Frazier Captain Hall examined the western shore in a 
boat to look for a safe wintering place, but was unsuccessful in finding 
one. 

Clearing Kennedy Channel in the Polaris, Captain Hall found himself 
passing through a large sound in the precise position of Kane’s open 
polar sea, with a bay on the Greenland side. In this bay the ship sub¬ 
sequently wintered, and it received from Captain Hall the name of 
Polaris Bay. Its northern cape he called Cape Lupton. 

Pressing on to the northward, and passing through the sound, the 
ship entered another narrow channel of about twenty-five to thirty miles 
in width, with high land on either side, and on the 30th of August 
attained the highest northern latitude reached by the expedition, in 
latitude declared by Captain Hall to be 82° 29 / north, but afterward 
found by the careful calculation of Mr. Meyer to be 82° 16' north. 

At this her highest point, the Polaris was still in the new strait or 
channel which she had discovered, and which Captain Hall named 
u ltobeson Straits,” after the present Secretary of the Kavy. 

Here the ship was met by heavy floating ice extending entirely across 
the straits, and barring her further progress northward. 

After making unsuccessful efforts to find a way through the ice, Cap- 


V 


tain Hall, in a boat, examined a small harbor on the eastern side of the 
straits for winter-quarters. This being found unsuitable for the pur¬ 
pose, was named u Repulse Harbor.” 

After incurring imminent risk, the ship became fairly beset in these 
straits, and drifted with the ice to the southward out of them to the 
latitude of 81° 30' north, when the pack opening, on the 3d of Septem¬ 
ber, she steamed to the eastward and found her win ter-quarters in a small 
sheltered cove or bend of the coast, protected by a stranded iceberg, on 
the east side of Polaiis Bay, in latitude 81° 38' uorth, longitude 61° 44' 
west. To this cove Captain Hall gave the name of u Thank God Harbor,” 
calling the iceberg “ Providence Berg.” 

At midnight on the 3d of September, 1871, Captain Hall landed with 
a boat on the east shore of Polaris Bay, and in the name of God and of 
the President of the United States raised the American flag on the land 
he had discovered. 

On one occasion, while beset in Robeson Straits, the Polaris seemed 
to be in such danger of being crushed that provisions were placed upon 
the ice, and measures taken to be in readiness for leaving her, but she 
happily escaped without injury. 

Immediately after securing his ship in winter-quarters, Captain Hall 
made preparations for a sledge journey northward, and other work was 
commenced by landing and setting up the observatory, getting the 
scientific observations underway, surveying the harbor, clearing-up the 
ship, and making snug for the winter. 

On the 10th of October Captain Hall left the Polaris, accompanied by 
Mr. Chester, first mate, and Esquimaux Joe and Hans, with two sledges 
and fourteen dogs. 

Setting out on this expedition, the first step taken by Captain Hall 
fell upon land more northern than white man’s foot had ever before 
touched. In the progress of the journey—unhappily the last that Cap¬ 
tain Hall was to make toward the pole—he discovered, as appears by 
his dispatch, a river, a lake, and a large inlet. The latter, in latitude 
81° 57' north, he named “Kewman’s Bay,” calling its northern point“ Cape 
Brevoort,” and the southern one “Sumner Headland.” 

At Cape Brevoort, in latitude 82° 2' north, longitude 61° 20' west, he 
rested, making there his sixth snow-encampment, and on October 20 
wrote his last dispatch to the Secretary of the Navy, the original draft 
of which was found, in his own handwriting, in his writing-desk, on its 
examination in Washington after it was delivered to the Secretary of 
the Navy by Esquimaux Joe, who had kept the desk in his custody 
from the time it was picked up on the ice, after the separation of the 
rescued party from the ship. 

A copy of this dispatch, so singularly preserved, accompanies this 
report. 

Captain Hall himself deposited a transcript of it in a cairn on the 
side of the mountain at Cape Breevoort, 


VI 


Captain Hall, it appears, bad hoped, when he left the Polaris on this 
journey, to advance northward at least a hundred miles ; but after hav¬ 
ing gone about fifty he was compelled, by the condition of the shore 
and of the ice and by the state of the climate, to return and await the 
approach of spring for another attempt. He reached the ship on the 
24th of October, apparently in his usual fine health, but was attacked 
the same day with sickness of the stomach and vomiting; and, taking 
to his bed, the next day was found to be seriously ill. His most marked 
symptoms seem from the evidence to have been such as indicated con¬ 
gestion of the brain, accompanied by delirium and partial paralysis of 
one side. The witnesses all state that his attack was called a apo¬ 
plexy,” and some of them speak of their own knowledge of his paraly¬ 
sis and delirium. He recovered, however, after some days sufficiently 
to leave his bed, to move about his cabin a little, and to attempt to at¬ 
tend to business, but soon had a relapse, became again delirious, and 
died on the 8th of November, 1871. Three days afterward he was bur¬ 
ied on the shore. 

From personal examination of all the witnesses, and from their testi¬ 
mony as given, we reach the unanimous conclusion that the death of 
Captain Hall resulted naturally from disease, without fault on the part 
of any one. 

During his illness he was under the medical care of Dr. Bessels, and 
as none of the persons now here are capable of giving a more particu¬ 
lar account of the nature and symptoms of this fatal sickness, the return 
of the Polaris must be awaited for precise information. 

All the persons examined testify to the uniform kindness and care of 
Captain Hall, and to the good order and efficient condition of the Polaris 
while under his command. 

On the death of Captain Hall, Mr; Buddington succeeded to the com¬ 
mand of the Polaris, as had been provided for in the instructions for the 
voyage issued by the Secretary of the Navy. 

The winter was passed as is usual in the arctic regions, but without 
any suffering from the cold, from disease, or from the want of proper 
provisions. 

The scientific observations were diligently kept up. Polaris and 
Newman’s Bays were surveyed, and the coast line to the southward of 
Polaris Bay was examined for over seventy miles. The crew were vari¬ 
ously employed, and the Esquimaux hunted whenever opportunity per¬ 
mitted. 

About the latter part of November, in a heavy gale from the north¬ 
east, the Polaris dragged her anchors, but brought up against the large 
iceberg before mentioned, which was aground in the bay. She was 
finally made fast to it, and so remained until the following summer. 

During the winter she was forced, by the pressure of other ice sweep¬ 
ing down against her, upon the foot of Providence Berg; and being sub¬ 
sequently carried higher upon it by the rising of the tide and renewed 


VII 


pressure from the ice, she thus remained until June, 1872. Her stem 
piece, resting uneasily during the whole of the stormy winter on this ice 
bed, was cracked, and some other bow-planks split, causing her to leak 
after she again got afloat. She seems to have leaked somewhat freely 
at first, and the steam-pumps were vorked to clear her out, but subse¬ 
quently the deck-pumps, used about six minutes per hour, were found 
sufficient to keep her clear. 

Early in June, before the Polaris was released from the ice, Captain 
Buddington dispatched Mr. Chester and Mr. Tyson with two boats to 
endeavor to get as far north as practicable. This party lost one boat, 
which was crushed in the ice almost at the commencement of their 
journey j the loss was, however, supplied from the Polaris by the can¬ 
vas boat, and with much difficulty and delay they got as far north as 
Newman’s Bay. They there waited the possible opening of the ice until 
the middle of July, when written orders from Captain Buddington di¬ 
rected their return to the ship. They were unable to transport the 
boats, and, leaving them on the shore, they started on foot, and arrived 
on board after an absence of about six weeks. 

While they were away, and some time in June, the Polaris had broken 
out of her winter-quarters, and had made several attempts to proceed 
northward to pick up the party with the boats, but the ice was found to 
be impassable, and Captain Buddington, on receiving the party on 
board, determined to make the best of his way southward to the United 
States as soon as the ice would permit. They started southward 
August 12, 1872, and slowly made their way along the western shore 
until the next day* when the ship, having got further in mid-channel, 
was badly beset by the ice in latitude about 80° 40' north, and was in 
danger of wreck for some hours, when she was freed again. 

On the 10th of August the ship was made fast to a large floe of ice 
in the latitude of 80° 2' north, and longitude about 68° west, and while 
still fast to this floe drifted south through Smith’s Sound nearly to 
Northumberland Island. 

In pursuance of the usual orders under similar circumstances, a quan¬ 
tity of provisions and some fuel had been placed on the deck of the 
steamer, in readiness to be removed to the ice should the safety of the 
ship become endangered j and it was ordered and understood that, if a 
crisis should be imminent, not only these stores, but clothing, papers, 
records, instruments, guns, ammunition, &c., were also to be put upon 
the floe, in ordet* to preserve the lives of the party and the results of the 
expedition should it become necessary to abandon the ship and to take 
refuge on the ice. A canvas hut had also been erected upon the floe for 
shelter should the ship be lost. 

On the night of the 15th of October, 1872, in about latitude 79° 35' 
north, during a violent gale of wind and snow, the need for such pre¬ 
paration became apparent, as the ship was suddenly beset by a tre¬ 
mendous pressure of ice, which was driven against her from the south- 


VIII 


ward and forced under lier, pressing her up out of the water, and by 
successive and violent shocks finally throwing her over on her beam- 
ends. 

Captain Buddington directed the provisions, stores, and materials in 
readiness, as before described, to be thrown overboard on the ice, and 
ordered half the crew upon the ice to carry them upon a thicker part to 
the hummocks, where they would be comparatively safe. He also sent 
all the Esquimaux, with their kyaks, out of the ship, and lowered the 
two remaining boats upon the floe. While so engaged, in the darkness 
of an arctic night, in the midst of a fierce gale and driving snow-storm, 
the hawsers of the Polaris failed to hold her, and she broke adrift from 
the floe, and in a few minutes was out of sight of the party who were at 
that moment busily at work on the ice. 

It is the uniform opinion of the witnesses, and our unanimous conclu¬ 
sion from their testimony and from the circumstances detailed, that this 
separation of the ship from the men, women, and children upon the ice 
floe was purely accidental. 

After losing sight of the ship, some of the men and a large part of 
the provisions were found to be afloat on a separate piece of ice. The 
men were rescued by means of the boats, which fortunately had been 
saved on the ice, and the party thus collected on the main floe passed 
the night as well as they could. 

The next day they made several attempts to reach the land with the 
boats, but failed, notwithstanding their most persistent efforts, owing 
to the obstruction of the ice and the violence of the wind. 

While thus striving to get on shore, but at what particular time of the 
day is not exactly ascertained, the Polaris came in sight to the north¬ 
ward, apparently coming toward the floe, under steam and sails. An 
India-rubber blanket was hoisted on an oar and displayed from the top 
of a hummock; the colors were set, and other signals were made to at¬ 
tract the attention of the Polaris, and as she approached so near to 
them that they plainly saw her down to her rail, and could distinguish 
her escape-pipe, and kept on toward them until they supposed her to be 
not more than four miles off, they felt sure she could force her way 
through the ice to their position, and that in a little while they would 
be again on board. In this they were disappointed ; the Polaris altered 
her course and disappeared behind the shore. 

Some time afterward, as the floe drifted away, she was again seen 
by some of the men under the land, with her sails furled,*and apparently 
at anchor, or made fast to the shore or the ice. 

It is most likely that the party on the ice was seen from the Polaris. 
The hut erected on the floe, the ship’s boats, the colors, the elevated sig¬ 
nal blanket, and the group of nineteen persons standing in relief against 
a white background could scarcely have remained unnoticed. 

It was natural that, under the circumstances, the party on the ice 
should have felt deeply disappointed at the failure of the ship to come 


IX 


to their relief, and should, at the time, have ascribed it to overcaution, 
if not indifference, rather than inability on the part of her responsible 
commander; neither is it unnatural that this feeling, fostered during 
the weary watches of their long winter upon the ice, should still remain 
to affect in a greater or less degree their present judgment on the sub¬ 
ject ; but it must not be forgotten that they, like ourselves, were and are 
without full information of the actual condition of the Polaris at the 
time spoken of, and cannot know how far the real dangers of their posi¬ 
tion were understood and appreciated by those on board of her. Such 
information and knowledge are absolutely necessary to a correct judg 
meut, and must not be assumed as the foundation of censure against 
persons acting under circumstances so trying and uncertain, who, by 
reason of their enforced absence, have no opportunity for explanation. 
Considering the subject dispassionately, and remembering that the 
Polaris had been so roughly handled by the ice the night before that 
both captain and crew thought she would be lost, and attempted the re¬ 
moval of her provisions and materials to the floe; that when she broke 
adrift and was swept off' by the gale, her steam-pipes, valves, and con¬ 
nections were frozen solid, and that she was for hours without steam, 
unmanageable amid the floating ice; that she was still leaking from her 
broken stem, and had probably received other injuries after she went 
adrift; and that she was left without a single boat of any kind, it seems 
most likely that her actual condition was such as to impose upon her 
commander the duty of getting her, with the lives and property which 
remained under his charge, at once into a position of safety under the 
shelter of Northumberland Island, where she was last seen by the party 
on the floe. If such were the state of the case, the first duty of Captain 
Buddington, under such circumstances, was to look to his vessel, partic¬ 
ularly as he probably believed that the party on the ice could, by the 
aid of the two boats, the kyaks, and the scow in their possession, find their 
way back to the Polaris quite as easily as he could force his way to 
them. 

But whatever might have been his opinion or theirs, the elements 
quickly determined the question. Shortly after the Polaris had been 
sighted for the second time a violent gale from the northeast sprung up, 
the weather became thick, the ship and the land were lost sight of, and 
the ice floe drifted away to the southward, with these nineteen persons 
still upon it. 

In view of the circumstances detailed, it is therefore our unanimous 
judgment that this final separation from the ship was also accidental. 

From October 15,1872, until April 1, 1873, when they were picked up 
in latitude about 59° north, these nineteen men, women, and children 
remained through the whole of the dark and dreary winter upon the ice 
In their first endeavors to reach the land, they occupied for a time 
different pieces of floating ice, but, forced finally to abandon all hope in 
this direction, they rested at last upon the floe upon which the Polaris 


X 


had made fast August 15, 1872, in latitude 80° 2', and from which she 
broke adrift on the night of October 15 following. 

The original extent of this floe they estimated at about five miles in 
circumference. Snow huts were built by the Esquimaux, in which they 
lived and kept their provisions. Of this they had saved a fair supply, 
which they apportioned and divided by means of weights made from 
shot, with rude scales devised by Mr. Meyer. Occasionally during the 
winter the Esquimaux shot a seal, and once they killed a bear, and thus 
renewed their supply of meat. 

On the 1st of April, finding their icy quarters much reduced by the 
breaking up of the floe, and that the current was then setting them to 
the southeast and out to sea, they launched their boat into open water 
and pulled toward the west, in order, if possible, to gain the coast. At 
times meeting ice too closely packed to get through, they were compelled 
to haul the boat upon it, launching her again as soon as a lead opened 
to the westward or southward. In this way they passed a month of 
weary and desperate endeavor. 

Toward the close of April their provisions were almost exhausted, 
and they were one day absolutely reduced to less than a biscuit apiece 
and a mouthful of pemmican, when a bear, scenting them on the ice, ap¬ 
proached them and was shot, and they were thus rescued from starva¬ 
tion. 

Revived by this good fortune, and strengthened by their new supply 
of fresh meat, they struggled on till the last day of April, 1873, when 
they were rescued by the Tigress. At this time they had the coast of 
Labrador in sight, distant about forty miles, and were hopiug to reach 
it before their provisions were exhausted. 

The circumstances of this most extraordinary voyage are given at 
length by the witnesses, and are particularly detailed in the diaries that 
some of the rescued party made day by day upon the ice, and which are 
copied in the testimony. 

After their rescue, although enfeebled by scanty diet and long expos¬ 
ure, and mentally depressed by their isolated and unhappy situation, so 
fearfully prolonged and of such uncertain issue, the general health of 
these hardy voyagers remained good, and when their trials and anxie¬ 
ties were ended they soon regained their usual strength. 

At the time of their separation from the Polaris every one belonging 
to the expedition was in good health. Nineteen were upon the ice floe, 
and they believe that all the rest were safe and on board the ship. The 
Polaris had not then repaired her broken stem, and still leaked some¬ 
what, but was easily freed by the deck-pumps. She had plenty of pro¬ 
visions, but not much coal—probably about enough to last through the 
winter. She was last seen, apparently at anchor, under Northumber¬ 
land Island, where it is most likely she remained for winter-quarters. 
Dr. Hays found Esquimaux residing on. that island, and the Esqui- 


XT 


maux settlement at Notlik is close by. Communication with these peo¬ 
ple would be easily opened and maintained, and no apprehension for 
the Polaris, or, in the absence of accident or sickness, for those on 
board, is entertained by any of the rescued persons. * 

As to the question whether the ship can make her way to the Danish 
settlements at Upernavik or Disco without steam, if she gets free from 
the ice this season, supposing her to be in as good condition as when the 
rescued party was last on board, the witnesses differ in judgment; but 
the safer if not the better opinion is that she will need assistance to 
bring her completely and safely out. 

Northumberland Island is in latitude 77° 20' north. A well-found 
ship, with average good fortune, would be able to reach that island in 
the summer, and to return in the autumn. It is possible that the Po¬ 
laris may be able to return without assistance; but as she remains 
within the arctic circle, not sound in her hull, with little fuel, and with 
many precious lives on board, and with the records and collections of 
her cruise in their possession, we are unanimously of the opinion that 
this possibility should not be assumed, and that a suitable vessel should, 
as soon as possible, be procured and sent in search of her, to render her 
return as certain and speedy as may be. While a suitable ship, con¬ 
structed and fitted for voyages among the ice, is getting ready, we 
believe it would be well to dispatch such naval vessel as may be avail¬ 
able, to carry forward proper supplies of coal and provisions for the re¬ 
lief of the expedition, to inform the authorities of Greenland of the 
condition of affairs, to gather all possible information from them and 
from the Esquimaux of the coast, and, if possible, by means of the lat¬ 
ter to send some intimations of speedy relief to the officers and crew of 
the ice-bound ship. 

Prom the testimony it appears that every possible opportunity was 
embraced by the members of the scientific corps of the expedition to 
carry out the instructions given, the only direction in which there seems 
to have been a partial failure being in reference to the use of the pho¬ 
tographic apparatus and the dredge. This, however, was due to the 
absence of suitable opportunities, or to some insurmountable impedi¬ 
ment at the time. While the records of the astronomical, meteorologi¬ 
cal, magnetic, tidal, and other physical departments of the exploration 
appear to have been extremely full, and the observations in each ap¬ 
pear to have been conducted according to approved methods, the col¬ 
lections of natural history are shown to have been not less extensive, 
the store-rooms of the Polaris being filled with skins and skeletons of 
musk-oxen, bears, and other mammals; different species of birds and their 
eggs; numerous marine invertebrata; plants, both recent and fossil, 
minerals, &c. Not the least interesting of these collections are speci¬ 
mens of driftwood picked up on or near the shores of Newman’s and 
Polaris Bays, among which Mr. Meyer thought he recognized distinctly 


XII 


the walnut, the ash, and the pine. Among the numerous facts that ap¬ 
pear to be shown by the testimony elicited on the examination, we may 
mention as one of much interest that the dip of the needle amounted to 
45°, and its deviation to 96°, being less than at Port Foulke and 
Rensselaer Harbor, as given by Dr. Kane and Dr. Hays. Auroras were 
frequent, but by no means brilliant, generally quite light, and consist¬ 
ing sometimes of one arch and sometimes of several. Streamers were 
quite rare. Only in one instance (in February, 1872) did the aurora 
appear of a distinct, rosy red. This was foreboded in the morning from 
8 to 10 o’clock by a very decided disturbance of the magnetic needle. 
Shooting-stars were so constantly seen that, although no special shower 
was observed, it was scarcely possible ever to look at the star-lit sky 
without noticing them in one direction or another. The rise and fall of 
the tides were carefully observed, the average being about five and a 
half feet. The greatest depth of water noticed was about one hundred 
fathoms. The existence of a constant current southward was noted by 
the expedition, its rapidity varying with the season and locality. The 
winter temperature was found to be much milder than was expected, 
the minimum being 58° in January, although March proved to be the 
coldest month. 

The prevailing winds were from the northeast, although there were 
occasionally violent tempests from the southwest. Light winds were 
noticed, however, from all points of the compass. Rain was occasion¬ 
ally observed, only on the land, however, the precipitation presenting 
itself over the ice in the form of snow. During the summer the entire 
extent of both low lands and elevations are bare of both snow and ice, 
excepting patches here and there in the shade of the rocks. The soil, 
during this period, was covered with a more or less dense vegetation of 
moss, with which several arctic plants were interspersed, some of them 
of considerable beauty, but entirely without scent, and many small wil¬ 
lows scarcely reaching the diguity of shrubs. The rocks noticed were 
of a schistose or slaty nature, and in some instances contained fossil 
plants, specimens of which were collected. Distinct evidence of former 
glaciers were seen in localities now bare of ice, these indications con¬ 
sisting in the occurrence of terminal and lateral moraines. 

Animal life was found to abound, musk-oxen being shot at intervals 
throughout the winter, their food consisting of the moss and other vege¬ 
tation obtained during this season by scraping off the snow with their 
hoofs. 

Wolves, also bears, foxes, lemmings, and other mammals, were re¬ 
peatedly observed. Geese, ducks, and other water-fowls, including 
jfiover and other wading-birds, abounded during the summer, although 
the species of land-birds were comparatively few, including, however, as 
might have been expected, large numbers of ptarmigan or snow-par¬ 
tridge. No mention is made by the rescued party of the occurrence of 
hawks and owls. No fish were seen, although the net and liue were 


XIII 


frequently called into play in the attempt to obtain them. The waters, 
however, were found filled to an extraordinary degree with marine in- 
vertebrata, including jelly-fish and shrimps. It was believed by the 
party that the seals depend upon the latter for their principal subsist¬ 
ence, the seals themselves being very abundant. Numerous insects 
were observed, also, especially several species of butterflies, specimens 
of which were collected; also, flies and bees and insects of like char¬ 
acter. 

The geographical results of the expedition, so far as they can now be 
ascertained from the testimony of Messrs. Tyson, Meyer, and their 
comrades, may be summed up briefly as follows : 

The open polar sea laid down by Kane and Hays is found to be in 
reality a sound of considerable extent, formed by the somewhat abrupt 
expansion of Kennedy’s Channel to the northward, and broken by Lady 
Franklin’s Bay on the west, and on the east by a large inlet or fiord, 
twenty-two4niles wide at the opening, and certainly extending far inland 
to the southeast. Its length was not ascertained, and Mr. Meyer 
thinks that it may be, in fact, a strait extending till it communicates 
with the Francis Joseph Sound of the Germania and Hansa expedition, 
and with it defining the northern limits of Greenland. This inlet was 
called the Southern Fiord. North of it, on the same side, is the indenta¬ 
tion of the shore called Polaris Bay by Captain Hall, where the Polaris 
wintered in latitude 81° 38' north. The northern point of this bay was 
named Cape Luptou. Its southern point is yet without a name. 

From Cape Luptou the land trends to the northeast, and forms the 
eastern shore of a new channel from twenty-five to thirty miles wide, 
opening out of the sound above mentioned, to which Captain Hall, as 
has already been stated, gave the name of Robeson Straits. The west¬ 
ern shore of these straits, north of Grinnell’s Land, is also nameless. 
Northeast of Cape Lupton, in latitude 81° 57', is a deep inlet, which 
Captain Hall called Newman’s Bay, naming its northern point Cape 
Brevoort, and its southern bluff Sumner Headland. From Cape Bre- 
voort the northeast trend of the land continues to Repulse Harbor, in 
latitude 82° 9' north—the highest northern position reached by land 
during this expedition. 

From an elevation of 1,700 feet at Repulse Harbor, on the east coast 
of Robeson Strait, the land continues northeast to the end of those 
straits, and thence east and southeast till lost in the distance, its van¬ 
ishing point bearing south of east from the place of observation. 

No other land was visible to the northeast, but land was seen on the 
west coast, extending northward as far as the eye could reach, and ap¬ 
parently terminating in a headland and near latitude 84° north. 

Mr. Meyer also states that directly to the north he observed, on a 
bright day, from the elevation mentioned, a line of light apparently 
circular in form, which was thought by other observers to be land, but 
which he supposed to indicate open water. 


XIV 


Besides ascertaining accurately the condition and extent of what was 
before supposed to be an open polar sea, discovering the southern fiord 
to the southeast and Robeson’s Straits to the north, with another wide 
expanse of water beyond it, and extending, by examination and survey, 
the coast-line on the east up to latitude 82° 9' north, and by observa¬ 
tion somewhat further, prolonging the west coast to the northward, and 
reaching with the Polaris, under steam, the high latitude of 82°'10' 
north—a point far beyond the limits of all previous navigation toward 
the pole—errors in the shore line of the west coast, as laid down by Dr. 
Hays, and also errors in the shore line of Greenland, as laid down by 
Dr. Kane, were observed and corrected. 

Of course the full scientific results of the Polaris expedition cannot 
be known until that vessel shall have been found and brought back 
with the treasures she has gathered, and the records and details of her 
arctic explorations. But enough is told by the witnesses whom we 
have examined to excite expectation and encourage the hope of large 
and valuable additions to the domain of human knowledge. 

GEO. M. ROBESON, 

Secretary of Navy. 

SPENCER F. BAIRD, 
Assistant Secretary Smithsonian Institution . 

WM. REYNOLDS, 
Commodore United States Navy. 

H. W. HOWGATE, 

Acting Signal-Officer, United States Army. 


Copy of draft of Captain RalVs dispatch. 

Sixth Snow house Encampment, Cape Brevoort, 

North side Entrance to Newman’s Bay, 

(latitude 82° 3' north , longitude 61° 20' west,) 

October 20, 1871. 

To the Honorable Secretary of the United States Navy, 
( Ieorge M. Robeson : 

Myself and party, consisting of Mr. Chester, first mate, my Esqui¬ 
maux Joe, and Greenland Esquimaux Hans, left the ship in winter, 
quarters, Thank God Harbor, latitude 81° 38' north, longitude 61° 4P 
west, at meridian of October 10, on a journey by two sledges, drawn 
by fourteen dogs, to discover, if possible, a feasible route inland for ray 
sledge journey next spring to reach the north pole, purposing to adopt 



XV 


such a route, if fouud, better than a route over the old floes and hum¬ 
mocks of the strait, which I have denominated Robeson Strait, after 
the honorable Secretary of the United States Navy. 

We arrived on the evening of October 17, having discovered a lake 
and a river on our way; the latter, our route, a most serpentine one, which 
led us on to this bay fifteen minutes distant from here, southward and 
eastward. From the top of an iceberg, near the mouth of said river, 
we could see that this bay, which I have named after Rev. Dr. Newman, 
extended to the highland eastward and southward of that position about 
fifteen miles, making the extent of Newman’s Bay, from its headland or 
cape, full thirty miles. 

The south cape is a high, bold, and noble headland I have named it 
Sumner Headland, after Hon. Charles Sumner, the orator and United 
States Senator; and the north cape, Brevoort Cape, after J. Carson 
Brevoort, a strong friend to arctic discoveries. 

On arriving here we found the mouth of Newman’s Bay open water, 
having numerous seals in it, bobbing up their heads; this open water 
making close both to Sumner Headland and Cape Brevoort, and the ice 
of Robeson Strait on the move, thus debarring all possible chance of ex¬ 
tending our journey on the ice up the strait. 

The mountainous land (none other about here) will not admit of our 
journeying further north, and as the time of our expected absence was 
understood to be for two weeks, we commence our return to-morrow 
morning. To-day we are storm-bound to this our sixth encampment. 

From Cape Brevoort we can see land extending on the west side of 
the strait to the north 22° west, and distant about seventy miles, thus 
making land we discover as far as latitude 83° 5' north. 

There is appearance of land further north, and extending more easterly 
than what I have just noted, but a peculiar dark nimbus cloud that con¬ 
stantly hangs over what seems may be land prevents my making a full 
determination. 

On August 30, the Polaris made her greatest northing, latitude 82° 
29' north; but after several attempts to get her further north she became 
beset, when we were drifted down to about latitude 81° 30'. When an 
opening occurred we steamed out of the pack and made harbor Septem¬ 
ber 3, where the Polaris is. [Corner of the manuscript here burned off.J 

Up to the time I and my party left the ship all have been well, and 
continue with high hopes of accomplishing our great mission. 

We find this a much warmer country than we expected. From Cape 
Alexander the mountains on either side of the Kennedy Channel and 
Robeson Strait we found entirely bare of snow and ice, with the excep¬ 
tion of a glacier that we saw covering about latitude 80° 30' east side 
the strait, and extending east-northeast direction as far as can be seen 
from the mountains by Polaris Bay. 

We have found that the country abounds with life, and seals, game, 


XVI 


geese, ducks, musk-cattle, rabbits, wolves, foxes, bears, partridges, lem¬ 
mings, &c. Our sealers have shot two seals in the open water while 
at this encampment. Our long arctic night commenced October 13, 
having seen only the upper limb of the sun above the glacier at meri¬ 
dian October 12. This dispatch to the Secretary of the Navy I finished 
this moment, 8.23 p. m., having written if in ink in our snow-hut, the 
thermometer outside minus 7°. Yesterday all day the thermometer mi¬ 
nus 20 to 23°; that is, 20° minus to 23° minus Fahrenheit. 

Copy of dispatch placed in pillar, Brevoort Cape, October 21, 1871. 


E X A M I N A T I O N 


OF THE 

PARTY SEPARATED OS THE ICE FROM THE UNITED STATES STEAMER 
POLARIS EXPEDITION TOWARD THE NORTH POLE, 


AND 

Picked up on the coast of Labrador and brought to the United States; 
with diaries of several members of the expedition. 


Conducted at Washington, D. C. 


Washington, D. 0 fJune 5, 1873. 

This afternoon, at 4 o’clock, Hon. Geo. M. Bobeson, Secretary of the 
Navy, accompanied by Admiral Goldsborougii, Commodore Beynolds, 
Prof. S. F. Baird, and Captain Howgate, of the signal-service, as¬ 
sembled at the navy-yard, for the purpose of taking the statements of 
Captain Tyson and other members of the rescued party from the 
steamer Polaris, brought from Saint John’s in the Frolic, Commander C. 
M. Schoonmaker. Commander Schoonmaker reported to the Secretary 
of the Navy that lie arrived at the navy-yard at a quarter past one 
o’clock to-day; that he left Saint John’s on the morning of the 28th of 
May, at 4 o’clock. 

He said, in response to inquiry by the Secretary: 

We had a pleasant voyage, except that we encountered a gale after 
leaving St. John’s; the wind was southwest, and we were where we ex¬ 
pected to see ice, so that we had to slow down, as the ship is not suited 
to combat ice. 

The Secretary. You have sent your report to the Department? 

Commander Schoonmaker. Yes, sir. I gave it to Admiral Golds- 
borough. I found these people in charge of the consulat Saint John’s. 
I received them on the 27th of May. 1 had no trouble with any of them. 
They are all well-behaved, orderly people; and all seem to be good 
men. Captain Tyson seems to be very intelligent; I have seen him more 
than any of the rest; I have had him with me in the cabin. He has 
made a very favorable impression on me. The list of the men on board 
the Frolic is in the hands of Admiral Goldsborougii. 

1 P 




2 


EXAMINATION OF CAPTAIN TYSON. 


The Secretary said: Captain Tyson, I desire your statement about 
this voyage—all that you know about it, and all that happened to you 
on the ice; your own statement, made in your own way, individually 
and separately, not mixed up or colored with any outside suggestions; 
and for that reason I have sent for you first, as the chief person of the 
expedition, among those who are here. You are aware, perhaps, that 
this subject has attracted a great deal of attention, and that there is a 
good deal of interest in the expedition, and in the persons who com¬ 
posed it, on the part of the Government and the public generally. It is 
proper, therefore, that an investigation should be nad, which will de- 
t velop all the facts as they occurred; that the Government may be 
rightly informed, in view of future action, and all parties satisfied. 

I will ask you a few questions by way of opening your statement, but 
I prefer to have you give a regular detailed account in your own way. 

Question. Your name? 

Answer. Geo. E. Tyson. 

Question. YYmrliome? 

Answer. Brooklyn, New York. 

Question. Your age, and business? 

Answer. Forty-four, last December. 1 have lived in New London 
since 1853. I have been a whaleman; have been a master on several 
cruises; of the brig Georgiana, of the bark Orra Taft; the bark An¬ 
telope; and schooner Erie, two voyages. I have made five whaling 
voyages as master. I have been in the whaling business since I was 
twenty-one. These vessels have been to Cumberland Sound, Davis 
Straits, and the Greenland Seas generally. Before I w r as on this expe¬ 
dition on the Polaris, I had been as far north as 74° 30', I think. 

I was never very familiar with Baffin’s Bay, but with the waters to 
the south of that I was quite familiar. The point to w hich I sailed in 
my first voyage was called the Devil’s Thumb, in Melville Bay. It 
is in latitude 74° 30'. I knew Captain Hall before this expedition. I 
became acquainted with him in 1860,1 think. He came to New London 
to inquire about the north, and there he called to see me. That was 
before his first voyage. I have known him ever since. 1 have not had 
a great deal of intercourse, but I saw him in Hudson’s Bay and in Re¬ 
pulse Bay, and supplied him with t>rovisions, in 1865, I think. That 
was when I was in command of the Antelope. I supplied him with 
provisions and a boat. He was then up at Wager Bay, at a place 
called Rouse’s Welcome, (on the map, Ross’s Welcome.) He was then 
there, living on shore with the Esquimaux. I saw him again on my 
next voyage. I came up Hudson’s Straits and went up Cumberland 
Gulf or Cumberland Inlet, and wintered there, in 1867 or 1868,1 think. 
I find it difficult to be accurate in regard to dates, and am not certain. 
I was then in the topsail schooner Erie. I went up into Repulse Bay, 
and there I saw Captain Hall again. I went from New London to Re¬ 
pulse Bay,in Hudson’s Bay, that is, at the head of navigation. Captain 
Hall was brought out in the Ansel Gibbs, two years after I saw him 
there, I think ; it must have been 1870 when he came home. We were 
always friendly, but I did not see him again until the fall of 1870, after 
my second voyage in the schoouer Erie. He was then in Groton, Con¬ 
necticut, and he came to see me in New London, as soon as I arrived. 



Question. Tor wliat purpose ? 

Answer. He came to me to go as sailing-master of the Polaris. Tbe 
place was afterward occupied by Captain Buddington. 

Question. Why did not you agree to go! 

Answer. I had another voyage in view then, that I thought of en¬ 
gaging in, and I refused to go. He called to see me three times. This 
was in the fall of 1870, in November or December. I told him I could 
not give a decided answer until spriug. Shortly after my refusal I heard 
that he had engaged Captain Buddington. I did not see him again, or 
have any communication with him, until I met him in Brooklyn in the 
summer of 1871. I was then living in Brooklyn; called to see him at 
the navy-yard. He then proposed my going again. 1 had not succeeded 
in starting the voyage that 1 expected to, aud 1 told him I would go. 
I sailed in the vessel. I sailed from Brooklyn on the Polaris in no 
capacity whatever. My understanding with Captain Hall was that 
I should accompany him to the pole, or on his journey to the pole, 
should he make one. I went in the Polaris, and my appointment as as¬ 
sistant navigator of the ship followed me in the Congress, and I received 
it at Disco. 

Question. You knew Captain Buddington! 

Answer. I was acquainted with him slightly. He lives in Groton, 
Connecticut, just across the river from New Loudon. My first acquaint¬ 
ance was in 1850; it was on my first voyage at sea. He was mate of the 
vessel. Since then 1 had known him by reputation only. I had no 
particular communication with him. We sailed from New London in 
the Polaris on the 3d day of July, 1871, I believe. We arrived at St. 
John’s about the 11th, and sailed from there on the 18th of July. We 
weut to Fiskanaes, on the coast of Greenland. Captain Hall was in 
hopes of finding Hans Christian or Hans Hendrick there. It is on 
the south coast of Greenland, in latitude 63°, I believe. We went from 
there to Holsteinberg, and from there to Disco. It was supposed at the 
time that the Congress might touch at Holsteinberg. We stopped there 
only a short time, perhaps forty-eight hours. We coaled at Disco, and 
carried in all the provisions it was possible to carry. We sailed from 
there on the 19th day of August, I think. From there we went to Uper- 
navick. Stopping there a short time, aud taking Governor Elburg on 
board, we went on to Kingituk, where he tried to get some dogs. On 
our arrival at Upernavik, Captain Hall sent out for Hans. He got some 
dogs at Kingituk, I do not know how many; some half a dozen, perhaps. 
It was hard work to get them. He went from Kingituk to Tessuisak, 
not Tessuisak Hut, which is still farther north. There he bought some 
dogs, and endeavored to procure the services of Jansen, but tor some 
cause or other he could not do it. We sailed from there on the 24th of 
August, I think, and went right directly north, making Cape York. 
Cape York is above Tessuisak, across the bay, in about 7G° north lati¬ 
tude. We then proceeded up the coast to Cape Alexander, passing in¬ 
side of Cumberland Island. Cape Alexander is in latitude 78°, I think. 

Question. Did you keep a diary ! 

Answer. I commenced one after we got into winter-quarters ; not be¬ 
fore. I had no time and no place to do any writing. I had no place 
afterward, in fact. We went along up the coast till we passed just 
above Rensselaer Harbor, in latitude about 78° 40'. There we struck 
across toward Cape Isabella, following the ice along, and brought in 
somewhere near Cape Prescott. There was a solid barrier of ice along 
across Smith’s Sound, and they were inclined to turn back and go into 
Port Foulke, but we discovered a passage close into the land, and we 


4 


went along on tlie west side of Smith’s Sound, somewhere off Cape 
Hawks. We discovered a passage toward the land. It was pasli ice. 
They called it solid, but it was pash. We followed the land in close, 
passing Carl Ritter Bay, as it is laid down on the chart, but these points 
are all wrong on the chart, and then we stood across Kennedy’s Chan¬ 
nel. From about Cape George Back, about latitude 81°, we stood 
across, the ice leading us off toward the northeast, across Kennedy’s 
Channel. At this time I spent most of my time aloft. We followed 
the ice from Cape Back across, and then over to Cape Lieber, and were 
brought up iu a fog about fifteen miles off the land. I think this was 
about the 28tli of August, iu latitude 81° 35'. After we were laid up a 
little while, we proceeded farther to the northeast again, following the 
shore closely. Kennedy’s Channel here is not more than fourteen miles 
wide, in the neighborhood of Cape Constitution. Then we went still 
farther north, up into what is now called “ Robeson’s Channel.” This 
channel commences beyond what was formerly known as Kane’s Open 
Sea, but is now called “ Polaris Bay.” Kennedy’s Channel opens into 
a bay, similar to Smith’s Sound, toward the northeast. The open 
Polar Sea, instead of being a sea, is nothing but this bay. We came 
up into what was known as Kane’s Open Polar Sea, and we discovered 
it to be a bay at the head of Kennedy’s Channel. The land on the east 
side tends easterly ; the bay lies to the eastward of the channel. This 
Captain Hall named Polaris Bay. It is the same place that was seen 
by Morton, and formerly called Kane’s Open Tolar Sea. We crossed 
that bay. When oft* Cape Lieber we are in that bay. Kane thought 
he saw a sea, but there is nothing but a bay there. It is about forty- 
five miles wide; the land is plain to be seen at all times when you get 
high enough ; the land is high. We crossed that bay, and went nearly 
through another channel, similar to Kennedy’s Channel. It is about 
seventeen or eighteen miles wide. That is Robeson’s Channel, or Robe¬ 
son Straits. It was obstructed by heavy ice. We went nearly through 
it. This is the highest water ever sailed in. We went to latitude 82° 16'. 
Captain Hall called it 82° 28', butthe scientific folks in the winter called 
it 82° 16'. That was after they had corrected the calculation. 

Question. Did you force your way any farther? 

Answer. Ko, sir ; there was no forcing of the way. We kept under 
the eastern shore. It was pretty foggy, and when we got pretty well 
through, I could see open water beyond, and the land lying as far to the 
north as I could see; on the eastern side, I suppose it is a bay ; I im¬ 
agined several times I could see land on both sides. That is one thing 
that makes me think it is a bay ; and the running of the ice is another 
reason. I was at the mast-head a great deal of the time. The working 
of the ice through the winter, too, led me to think there w T as a large and 
extensive bay beyond. Here we got beset with ice in Robeson’s Chan¬ 
nel, and were there several days, and Captain Hall landed provisions on 
the ice one day. 

Question. Why did he land the provisions? 

Answer. For fear the vessel might be crushed ; and he wished some¬ 
thing on the ice to stand the party through the winter. We took it 
aboard again the next day. We were drifting southwest, and the 
wind was blowing northeast. We drifted out of Robeson’s Channel 
back again, and Captain Hall steamed in under the land, and came to 
anchor behind some bergs. The wind and current drifted us; we could 
not steam nor sail while in the ice. The wind blew’ a gale from the 
northeast that took us out. After opening into Polaris Bay, the chan¬ 
nel widens, giving a chance of escape. We steamed in under the land 


5 


and went into winter quarters, and staid there. I think it was the 2d 
day of September, 1871; 1 am not sure to a day. There is no other pro¬ 
tection to a ship there than icebergs and heavy ice thus grounded, and 
Captain Hall anchored his ship under the protection of this berg and 
other grounded pieces. The next morning he called the mate, Mr. 
Chester, and myself, to consult, to see whether we should proceed north 
or not. Our decision was to go north, but it was overruled by Cap¬ 
tain Buddington. 

Question. How ! 

Auswer. By his influence over Captain Hall. 

Question. Who were present at the consultation! 

Answer. Captain Hall, Captain Buddington, Mr. Chester, and myself. 
Buddington was opposed to going north. 

Question. What reason did he give ! 

Answer. He said we would never get back again; we had no busi¬ 
ness to go. 

Question. Captain Hall sent for you and the mate! 

Answer. Yes, sir; in the cabin. Hall and Buddington were there 
when Chester and I went, and the consultation was with us four. Ches¬ 
ter and I were for going north ; Buddington, for staying. 

Question. Hid he mean to consult you about going north at that 
time—in September! 

Answer. He asked what it was best to do; should we go farther 
north ! Our decision was, yes, farther north. The northeast wind had 
opened the channel, and we could go. Captain Buddington, with an 
oath, said he would be damned if she should move from there. He 
walked off, and Captain Hall followed him, and they bad some conver¬ 
sation together. A few hours before they had been thinking of land¬ 
ing some provisions; and Captain Hall then came to where we stood, 
and ordered us then to land the provisions. Of course we said nothing 
more. 

Question. Then you considered that that conversation decided the fact 
that the ship should then and there be laid up for the winter ! 

Answer. Yes, sir. 

Question. The channel was then open to the northeast! 

Auswer. Yes, sir; as far as I could see. 

Question. What did Captain Hall say about going north ! 

Answer. He spoke to me in the afternoon; and I said I should re¬ 
ceive no credit, but it would be a great credit to him to go two or three 
degrees farther. 

Question. When consulting, did he express his own opinion ! 

Answer. No, sir. 

Question. Did you laud all the stores and supplies ! 

Answer. O, no, sir; only a portion ; just enough so that in case the 
vessel should drift the party might live. 

Question. Did you deck over the ship ? 

Answer. We housed her with canvas, and we staid there during 
the entire winter, until June. I was away from the ship when she 
broke out; I do not know what day she broke out. We went into win¬ 
ter-quarters, I think, on the 2d of September. Then we had a 
snow-storm, and the ice formed inside of the bergs and hummocks, but 
it was open outside. The ice was weak for a long time, and then it 
hardened up so that we could walk upon it. We lived on the ship en¬ 
tirely. We did very little. We read and wrote, but it was soon dark. 
The sun disappeared on the 17th day of October, and re-appeared on 
the 28th of February. There were one hundred and thirty-five 


6 


days 7 absence of the sun. After we had become settled in winter-quar¬ 
ters, Mr. Chester, Dr. Bessels, and the two natives went off hunting, 
and were gone two days. The two Esquimaux, Joe and Hans, went 
with them. On their return, Captain Hall prepared to go on an expe¬ 
dition himself—a sledge expedition. This was in October. He started 
on the 10th of October; Mr. Chester went with him, and the two 
natives, Chester and Hans, on one sled, and Captain Hall and Joe on 
another. We could distinguish day from night then ; we had several 
hours of light—about eight hours on the 10th of October ; no sun, but 
twilight; quite light enough to see to work. They got off about one 
o’clock in the day, and they returned a little after one o’clock 
on the 24th of October; were gone just two weeks. I saw Cap¬ 
tain Hall off when he went; helped him off. He went across the plains 
to the eastward. We lay in front of quite a large plain, and there were 
high mountains on each side of it. He started to the eastward. Polaris 
Bay is in latitude 81° 38', longitude 61° 44' west. He went off in about 
an east-northwest direction, across the plain. I saw him when he came 
back ; I met him on the shore. He went to 82°—not as far as we had 
been with the ship—to what we called Newman’s Bay, a bay on the east 
side of Bobeson Channel. I talked with him when he came back; I 
had a few words when he was on the shore. He said he was never bet¬ 
ter in his life; he enjoyed his sledge journey amazingly, and was going 
right off on another journey, and wished me to go with him. He did 
not tell me anything about the particulars of his journey. I was at 
work outside, banking up the ship, putting a banking of snow-blocks 
up about ten feet thick, to keep away the cold and frost. I had been 
at work at it several days when Captain Hall returned, and as soon as 
he went on board I resumed my work. It soon after came on dark, and 
I went on board. I heard he was sick about an hour after his arrival; 
I cannot tell who told me. I went into the cabin, and he was lying in 
his berth. He said he felt sick at his stomach. I asked if he did not 
think an emetic would do him good. I said, if he was bilious, I thought 
an emetic would do good. He said he thought he was bilious. He 
grew rapidly worse, and soon became delirious. I do not think it was 
24 hours before he became delirious. He did not say anything about 
his symptoms excepting that he felt sick at his stomach ; that was all 
the remark he made to me. Then he grew delirious. Mr. Chester and 
Mr. Morton watched with him. At times Captain Hall would call me, 
and I would sit and talk with him for a time. He was delirious. 

Question. Did he ever talk very rationally after he was taken ill ? 

Answer. 1 think about the 3d of November, after he had been sick 
seven or eight days, he got better; he talked rationally, and went to 
writing about his business. But he still appeared to be thinking on 
one subject; he thought some one was going to injure him; he was very 
suspicious; he seemed to think somebody was going to poison him. In 
his first delirium he accused about everybody ; but when he was up and 
appeared rational, he did not say anything to me about it, but he was 
very particular what he took. 

Question. Did he choose who should watch with him ? 

Answer. No, sir; he did not choose any one; they watched volun¬ 
tarily. I was at work outside, and did not know what was going on in 
the ship except when I came on board. At times he would insist on 
my coming there, and I went. 

Question. Did he accuse any one when you w T ere by ? 

Answer. Yes, sir, almost everybody ; and when I was absent he might 


7 


accuse me for aught I know. He accused Captain Buddington and the 
doctor of trying to do him an injury. 

Question. Whom else did you hear him accuse ? 

Answer. I believe he accused about everybody, in his delirium. I do 
not know them ; but in his ravings he would let out against almost 
everybody. He got better, I think, the second or third day of Novem¬ 
ber, and he went around, attending to his business; and I was in the 
cabin and talked with him. He did not accuse anybody then ; and he 
again proposed his sledge journey; said he intended to go, and wished 
me to go with him. 1 think it was not more than twenty-four hours 
after that, when he was sick again. He was up two or three days, 
writing, attending to his business, as I thought. But he was very care¬ 
ful as to what he ate and drank. He had a clerk there, Mauch ; he had 
taken him from being a fireman and made a clerk of him. I believe he 
w r ould make him taste all the food, or wine, or Inedicine, that he took. 

Question. Was he taken' again with the same symptoms as at first ? 

Answer. He retired in the evening; Mr. Chester was with him ; and 
Mr. Chester said Captain Hall was recovering rapidly and felt first-rate, 
and would be around in a few days. During the night he grew worse, 
and died that night. I got the information first from Captain Budding- 
ton, who came to my room, and told me the captain was dying. I got 
up and went to the cabin, and looked at him. He was insensible—knew 
nothing. He lay upon his face in his berth, breathing very heavy. I 
could not see his face. His face appeared to be buried in his pillow, 
and he was breathing heavy, and so he died. He never said a w 7 ord ; 
had no sane moments before his death. 

Before his death there had been some little difficulty between Captain 
Buddington and himself. It was before he started on his journey. Cap¬ 
tain Hall was about suspending Captain Buddington from duty, but he 
passed it over. The difficulty was his foul language about the ship, 
and his taking anything he could lay his hands on—the provisions or 
liquors about the ship. Captain Hall said he was going to put him off 
duty, and asked me what I thought of it. I objected to it. I thought 
it would be breaking up the ship’s company at that early stage. As 
Captain Hall had proposed to me to go beforehand, in the same capacity 
as Captain Buddington, I felt I could not say anything. I told him to 
give him a good talking to, and perhaps the man would do better. On 
the strength of that he passed it over, and went on his sledge journey, 
and returned, and died. 

Question. Had there been any difficulty, that you know of, between 
Captain Hall and Captain Buddington, or anybody else, since you had 
left Disco, until this time? 

Answer. No, sir; no serious difficulty that I was aware of. 

Question. How did Captain Hall and the doctor get along ? 

Answer. Not very well. I believe the doctor never had any words 
with him, however. Captain Hall was sometimes a little stern with 
the doctor, but he never had any words wfith the captain. Captain Hall 
did not think the doctor was qualified for his position ; he said so, but 
the doctor did not have any words with him; at least, I never knew of any. 
Captain Hall died on the 8th day of November, and was buried on the 
11th, fifteen days after he was first taken sick. He was buried on 
Polaris Bay shore. All the ship’s company were present. I know of 
none absent unless it was the cook and the steward. I dug the grave 
myself as well as I could, but the ground was frozen very hard; it was 
like flint. It is a shallow grave, but sufficient to cover and protect him. 
I dug the grave with picks and ice chisels and axes, and any way I could 


8 


cut through the ground. I had a portion of the crew with me, three or 
four men. Mr. Chester, I think, helped me in digging it. I think we 
spent two days at it. There are some accounts in the newspapers of 
Captain Hall’s calling people into the cabin after he came back from the 
sledge journey, and encouraging them, and saying what they were going 
to do ; but if lie called anybody in, it must have been when I was not 
present. This brings us up to his death. The winter we passed was 
wretched indeed. Captain Buddington assumed command after that, 
in his way; and the winter passed over, and the spring came on, and 
there was nothing done. Nobody was allowed to go. He swore that 
nobody should do anything; and he kept his word. 

Question. How came he to do it? 

Answer. He swore to me he would be damned if anybody should do 
anything, but he allowed us to attempt an expedition with the boats. 
I told him, when starting the boats north, that he knew very well those 
boats could not do anything. That was in June. We lay there inactive 
till the 8th of June, 1872, when I started. We were inactive in many 
respects, but we went hunting; we killed musk-oxen, and one bear was 
killed, and some seals. The doctor collected quite a number of speci¬ 
mens; some few eggs, birds, ducks, geese, plover, and gulls of different 
kinds. I believe the doctor made some photographs of the ship at she 
lay in the ice, and he was about making a photograph of Captain Hall’s 
grave when we got under way. We lay there inactive until J une. Then I 
started on the 8th of June, and was told to see how far I could penetrate 
with a whale-boat. Mr. Chester had another boat. There were two boats. 
Dr. Bessels was with me, and Mr. Meyer with Chester, both of the scien¬ 
tific department. The crew were Peter Johnson, William Nindemann, 
(these two are here now; the other one is on board the ship;) Henry 
Stobbey. Augustus Linguist was another. He is on board the ship here. 
Mr. Chester started the day before I did. 1 had written orders from Cap¬ 
tain Buddington. I believe they were left in the boat I went north with. 
I had to leave the boat in Newman’s Bay. Mr. Chester lost his boat on 
the 9th day of June, and everything there was in her—crushed by the 
ice. On the 10th day of June I started north with mine alone, and got 
as far as Newman’s Bay, in latitude 81° 57'. I started from wliat is 
called Cape Lupton. There was a place there where we could get into 
the water, where the ice set from the land, and I followed the water up 
to Newman’s Bay. The north cape of Newman’s Bay is in latitude 82° 
P; the center of it, as near as I could get at it, is 8i° 57'. The bay is 
four or five miles wide. I remained up there until along in the early 
part of July. Mr. Chester returned to the ship by the land, with his 
crew. Then he took the canvas boat, and tried to reach the north with 
her, and got up as far as I was, and the ice would not permit us to go 
any farther. I waited there until Captain Buddington sent word, as Mr. 
Chester and some of his crew were gone from the ship, to come back to 
the ship, and they said she was leaking very bad, and he wished our 
help. I hauled my boat ashore with great difficulty up at Newman’s 
Bay, and walked overland to the ship. Mr. Chester remained a number 
of days, with his boat, but finally hauled her ashore, and returned by 
land, leaving his boat there. The whale-boat and the canvas boat are 
both there now, and the other whale-boat was crushed. We lay around 
the ship until we started for home, doing nothing in particular." It was 
the 12th day of August when we started. The ship was leaking some 
in the stem forward, but the leak was not very serious. We did not 
make any attempt to stop it at that time. We could pump out in four 
minutes one hour’s leakage, and we pumped her every hour. The leak 


9 


was at the six-foot mark, the mark showing when she drew six feet of 
water. It was entirely due to her lying upon a berg all winter. In the 
month of November a heavy gale of wind broke the ice; we swung to our 
anchor, and swung against what Captain Hall called Providence Berg. 
We lay there through the gale, and, on the abatement of the gale, she was 
allowed to remain up on the ice, and the ice formed around her. We could 
have hauled her off in the commencement, but the vessel was allowed 
to lie there. The consequence was that she was pressed farther and 
farther on to the spur of the berg, and lay there during all the winter. 
She fell over on her beam-ends, and the six-foot mark being above the 
ice, she started her stem, and there was the leak. It was not the fault of 
the ship that this happened, or that anything happened at all. There 
was no attempt made to repair it. I thought there was rise and fall enough 
at the spring tide to lift her stem up enough to get at that leak. I pro¬ 
posed to do that. The tides rise and fall at the spring-tide about seven 
feet. We could not have worked long upon it; but we could have 
worked a short time at every tide, and worked several tides. I got 
back to the ship from my trip north on the 8th of July. At that time 
they were pumping by steam with the donkey, and instead of calling 
on us to pump, we remained until Mr. Chester arrived, and then we did 
nothing, though shortly after his arrival we did pump some by hand, 
perhaps for five or six days. Then the steam was put on again. 

Question. Hid you know of any consultations, as to the question 
whether you should sail for home, between Captain Buddington and Hr. 
Bessels ? 

Answer. I do not know. Buddington had asked me about going 
home long before that. He asked me if 1 wished to stay another win¬ 
ter. I told him no. If a man swears that nobody shall do anything, I 
want to get home as soon as possible. 1 thought that, under the cir¬ 
cumstances, with him in command, I would rather get home. We started 
for home on the 12th day of August. The ship was leaking still the 
same. The leak did not increase any at that time. On the 15th day of 
August we were beset in the ice, just north of Cape Frazer, in latitude 
80° 2' north. The cause of that, I think, was that Captain Buddington 
got intoxicated, and run his vessel off in the middle of the sound. We 
drifted from that point over opposite Kane’s winter-quarters, close to 
the land, not twenty-two miles from the shore; it was near Rensselaer 
Harbor, and we drifted along by that harbor, and were working through 
ice all the time; but we got worked off from the shore into the middle of 
the straits. 

Question. Was Captain Buddington drunk at the time you were 
beset ? 

Answer. Yes, sir; he was drunk; noton rum, but with alcohol. 

Question. How do you know that ? 

Answer. It was all there was to get drunk on; he got it from Hr. 
Bessels’s stores. 

Question. How do you know that? 

Answer. The doctor caught him at it, and they had quite a tussle 
together; I was not present; I was on deck. 

Question. Tell all you know about that. 

Answer. Captain Buddington was drunk, and the doctor said he was 
goiugto catch him. He went into the pantry, where the natives were, 
and secreted himself there. Captain Buddington came down to take 
his nip, and the Hoctor came out of his hiding place and took hold of 
him. The doctor did not keep his alcohol there, but Captain Budding- 


10 


ton had secreted some there, and he would go down and take his nip. 
There was no liquor on board, except this alcohol, at that time. 

We drifted on until the night of the 15th of October, when it was 
blowing from the southwest. We had a great deal of provision on deck, 
placed there in case of an emergency. The engineer came running up 
out of his room, and reported that the vessel had sprung an additional 
leak. Captain Buddington cried out, “ Throw everything overboard.” 
As the vessel, by its motion, would break away the ice and lose every¬ 
thing thrown down near it, I tried to get it out of the way, and cried 
out to stop a moment until I could remove the stuff. Some of the crew 
came to help, and commenced lugging it away; but still much ran under 
the ship. It was a dark night, and I could scarcely see the stuff as it 
was on the ice or in the water. We worked in that way three or four 
hours, perhaps, when the ice on the starboard side let the ship loose 
again. We were at first tied to the floe of ice by hawsers, but when the 
piece on the starboard drifted away, she righted from her beam-ends 
and broke away. I went on board just before she broke loose, and asked 
if the vessel was making any more water than usual, and was told that 
she was not. I found that the engineer’s statement was a false alarm. 
The vessel was strong, and no additional leak had been made; but as 
the ice lifted her up, the little water in the hold was thrown over, and it 
made a rush, and he thought that a new leak had been sprung. When 
I found she was making no more water, I went on the ice to try to save 
the provisions, if possible, and after a short time the ship broke away in 
the darkness, as I have described, and we lost sight of her in a moment. 
It was a terrible night; the wind was blowing strong from the south- 
southeast; it was snowing, and fearfully dark; the wind was very heavy, 
and the snow and sleet prevented any one from looking to the wind¬ 
ward. 

Question. How did you happen to have all the Esquimaux on the ice? 

Answer. I cannot tell, of my own knowledge. They told me that 
Captain Buddington told them the ship was going to be lost, and they 
must get out. They were not there when I first jumped on the ice ; 
after I had been there at work a long time, I saw some of them there. 
I saw Joe’s wife and some of the children; I did not know who were 
there until after it became day-light. 


Friday, June G, 1873. 

Examination of Captain Tyson resumed. 

The ship was off Cape Frazer when we were first beset in the ice on 
our return. We made several unsuccessful attempts to go to the west¬ 
ward, but could not get out of the large floe. That means a large cake 
of ice that is solid. The floe that we were tied to was about five miles 
in circumference; we were tied with large hawsers and ice-anchors. 
That was done as soon as it was ascertained that we could not get out; 
and we drifted with the cake of ice. In the latter part of August and 
the first of September our drift was very small; the winds were mostly 
from the south; and we drifted from one to five miles a day. Finally, 
when the north winds set in, we drifted fifteen to twenty miles a day. 
There was a constant drift southward, no matter which way the wind 
blew ; and we drifted from the time we tied up to the ice in August till 
the 15th day of October, when this pressure occurred. Shortly after 
we were beset, new 7 ice formed around on the other side of the vessel. 



11 


It formed several times and broke away several times, and formed 
again. The last time 1 should think it became a foot thick, and the ice¬ 
floe on which we were became jammed between the bergs, and that 
separated the young ice from the old, leaving the outside of the ship 
exposed to any ice that might come along. Shortly after the new ice 
broke off a large, heavy floe came in. We could do nothing, and of 
course the piece to which we were tied was stationary. If it had been 
outside in a drift, there would have been no pressure; but being station¬ 
ary, and this floe coming up against it, caused the pressure. Then they 
got frightened at the report of the engineer, and there was quite a 
panic on board. The boat was lifted but a little, but it was then that 
the things were thrown overboard which had been placed on deck in 
case there was danger. There was pemmican, bread, a barrel of pork, a 
barrel of molasses, rice, meal, and medicines. This was on deck ready 
to be thrown overboard. There was a great quantity of pemmican— 
that is, dried meat put up in cans of forty-five pounds. I suppose there 
were three or four thousand pounds, perhaps more. On this floe I had 
erected a house, with a small frame made of poles. Captain Budding- 
ton would not give me any lumber out of the vessel. He wished me to 
get one up, so that if the ship should be lost there might be a shelter, 
and I made it of hard-wood poles. I made it in December, and over it 
I had a canvas covering. I wanted the house finished and some 
provisions in it, so that, in case of accident, the crew might flee 
to it from the ship, and have something to live upon ; but it was 
not done. It was on the main floe to which we were anchored. 
When this alarm occurred, a good deal of this stuff was thrown 
overboard and some lost; in fact, a great part of it was lost. 
Provisions and everything else on the ice went adrift when the ice broke 
under us. When these things were thrown overboard, the ship was lift¬ 
ing and breaking the thinner ice, and many things were lost. There 
was a portion of the crew came out when I called for help ; still, I wanted 
more help, and I called for it, and some more came out. It was dark, 
and I did not know how may were there. After I had been on the ice 
some time, I saw Hannah on the ice, as I have said, and I saw Hans’ 
wife and children. I did not lose sight of Hannah, because she was 
hard at work helping us, and hauling things from the ship. I do not 
recollect seeing Joe nor Hans ; I suppose they were gettingtheir things 
out of the ship—their guns, ammunition, and one thing and another. 
There was considerable ammunition on the ice; that was all that saved 
our lives. It was on the after-part of the deck, and was thrown over¬ 
board. This work went on from about half past 6 o’clock till 10, or 
nearly 10, before the ship finally broke away. The time seemed long, 
and we were working all the time; we worked till we could scarcely 
stand. They were throwing over constantly to us. I think it was about 
10 when the ship broke away. I was at work on the ice, dragging pro¬ 
visions away, when the pressure ceased from the starboard side, that is, 
the op^n side. I went on board the vessel, and I saw Captain Budding- 
ton in the alley-way, and I asked him what water the ship was making. 
He replied, no more than through the summer. 1 was not satisfied with 
that, but they were pumping with the little pump in the starboard alley- 
way ; two of them were pumping, and I saw that the pump sucked, 
and that she was easy; but I no sooner got back on the ice than 1 heard 
a snapping. I called to Captain Buddington, and hoped he would cease 
throwing things over. We had but two boats left; those had been low¬ 
ered on the ice; we had four when we started, and one canvas boat; 
one was lost by Mr. Chester in the ice when lie was trying to get north, 


12 


and the other I had been obliged to leave ashore up at Newman’s Bay. 
The canvas boat, which was good for nothing, was also left there, so 
that there remained but two boats attached to the ship ; they were two 
whaleboats, that would carry eight men easily; six is a boat’s crew ; 
we could carry twelve on a pinch, in smooth water, quite easily. These 
boats were put on the ice during the panic, while we were throwing 
provisions over. They had the oars and sails, and everything that be¬ 
longed to them in the boats, kept there habitually, in case of accident. 
I told Captain Buddington that the ice was cracking, and asked if 
he would haul the boats on board. He ordered me to haul the provis¬ 
ions farther back from the ship, and farther on to the ice. I did so. I 
think it must have been nearly 10 o’clock then ; I went on hauling the 
stuff back, but it was not more than five or ten minutes before the ice 
exploded under our feet, and broke all to pieces. It broke from the 
pressure between the bergs. I could not see then, because it was so dark, 
but in the morning I could see the reason. I knew the ship must go 
adrift when 1 heard the ice cracking. 1 walked back to see where 1 
had deposited some provisions, and in returning toward the ship the 
ice broke up under the pressure, carrying some of the men adrift on 
the smaller pieces, whom we got off* afterward. The ship went off in¬ 
stantly. We had the boats; they were across the last crack that had 
been opened. The children I found lying there on some skins. I did 
not discover them till I was hauling the boats over farther on the ice, and 
there were the young ones under the skins. They were on the musk-ox 
skins, and lying right across a crack in the ice. If they had not been on 
the skins they would almost have gone through. We took the children, 
and hauled the boats across on to the main piece, and I did not see anything 
more of the ship that night. The ice we were on was nearly a circular 
piece, and about four miles in circumference. It was not square by any 
means. It was of different thickness. There were fresh-water lakes and 
hillocks ; places where the fresh-water lakes had formed in the summer, 
under the high parts of the ice. I suppose that on the mounds or hills of 
the ice it might have been thirty feet thick, and on the flat parts perhaps 
not more than fifteen or ten. It was not difficult to traverse at all; it 
was rough. There were hillocks of snow and ice on it, from the thaw¬ 
ing of the previous summer. The surface was all fresh. A great deal 
of the surface was snow. I do not suppose these heavy floes are formed 
at sea, but are formed on the plateaus above, on the declivities of the 
shore. They cannot form at sea. When formed, they slide off into the 
water and float away. All this that I have been describing so far hap¬ 
pened in the darkness. I got some men off the cakes of ice in the dark¬ 
ness ; I cannot remember now who they were. We launched a boat off the 
main piece of ice that remained firm, and got them off the pieces 
that were broken. The ice was running very quick, and we had to do 
everything quickly or not at all. We had, besides the boats, the 
u donkey,” or a little scow, on the ice. I had forgotten to mention that. 
I shoved the whale-boat off. The men were distant thirty or forty yards. 
I discovered men with the other boat also, hauling her away from the 
water, for fear the ice would break. Those men got off several men 
from the small pieces of ice, and then hauled the boat up again. There 
was nobody lost in all that time. I do not think that anybody who 
was on the pieces was lost. Had it been so, these men would have re¬ 
ported it. I did not know at the time who was on the ice. But after¬ 
ward, I could hear of none. So that I do not think anybody was 
lost; I think that all the other people not with me on the ice are on the 
ship. After getting the crew on the ice, most of them rolled themselves 


13 


up in musk-ox skins till morning. We bad not one apiece, but we had 
some that we had saved, and some were large, so that two could crawl 
in under them. They were almost snowed under. It was dark, and I 
saw no more of them. I did not lie down that night; I walked the ice 
all night; I had nothing to lie upon. In the morning, of course, I looked 
anxiously for the vessel, supposing I could get to her again without any 
trouble. But when the light came, and whde the men were still lying 
around, and I looked for the vessel, I saw nothing of her. I then con¬ 
cluded I must try to reach the land, as we had not provisions enough 
on the ice to sustain the party all through the winter. The question 
was, could we reach the land? I was in hopes of finding Esquimaux to 
assist us, if we could reach the land. Seeing nothing of the vessel, I 
supposed she might possibly be lost in the night. I called the crew out; 
and I had some difficulty in mustering them. Some of them were 
snowed under—out of sight entirely. It had been snowing all night, 
but it cleared up in the morning. I do not think the snow came till 
nearly nine o’clock. I called the crew together, and, after mustering 
them, I told them we must reach the shore. They concluded to go; but 
they were very tired, and very hungry, and very wet; they had had 
nothing to eat since three o’clock the day before. They tried to cook 
something. They made a fire out of some wood they found on the ice ; 
they had nothing to cook in but some flat tin pans, and they tried to 
cook some of the canned meat, and tried to make some coffee or choco¬ 
late. Some of them shifted their clothing. Finally, I got started. Now, 
this piece of ice being fast between the bergs, it remained stationary. 
The wind had hauled to the northeast. The bergs rested on the bottom. 
Could I have started sooner, I should have reached the land on the ice. 
The wind had hauled to the north-northeast, I judged; I did not take 
the bearings of it; but it was down quartering across the land. It 
brought the loose ice down, and when I got halfway to the shore it 
brought the loose ice down on my bows. It was not ice to stop a ship; 
a ship would go through it, but a boat could not go through. I had 
left nothing on the ice but six bags of bread, which I would endeavor 
to get, if I once got to the shore. My further progress was stopped 
when within a little over a mile from the small island. I hauled 
up upon the ice. I did not dare abandon any of my provisions, 
or I could have gone to the land. But here were eighteen persons 
to be supported. When I had hauled up on the ice after being 
stopped, I discovered the ship up above us. She came around a 
point which was about eight or ten miles distant. We could see water 
over the ice that had drifted down, and we could see water in-shore. 
The wind was blowing, quartering off' the shore, and making more 
water all the time. I watched the vessel, and set my colors for her. I 
had a flag, which I still have, on the Frolic. I watched the vessel; 
she was under steam and sail. I saw her through the spy-glass. I 
then went to w r ork securing everything. I could not see anybody on 
board the vessel. She kept along down by the land, and finally I lost 
sight of her behind the land, which I supposed to be Northumberland 
Island. I had some poles at the house that I built, and I erected a 
tent to protect us. I told the men to go and get the poles; and in going 
they opened this bay, so that they could see behind the island. When 
they came back to me, they reported that the vessel was in behind the 
island, tied up. 1 did not know what to make of it. I took the spy¬ 
glass, and, running to a point, I saw she was tied up behind what I 
supposed to be Northumberland Island. I suppose she was tied 
up. At least all the sails were furled, and there was no smoke, 


14 


and she was lying* head to the wind. The wind must have been 
off the land in the bay. I supposed she was tied up to the bay- 
ice, which I could see with the glass. My piece of ice commenced 
drifting just before I saw the vessel; and we drifted southward. I told 
the crew that I did not feel right about the vessel not coming for us. 
I told them we must endeavor to get to the other side of the floe, and 
reach the land, perhaps lower down than the vessel was, and I would 
eventually reach her. I told them to prepare the boats. I threw every¬ 
thing else away except a little provisions, enough to last two or three 
days. 1 told them I would run across the ice and see if there was an 
opportunity to take the water, and so reach the land. I run across as 
quick as I could. I was very tired, and had nothing to eat. I saw there 
was an opportunity to go through. The small ice did not get in fast 
enough to prevent my getting across. In these gales the ice runs very 
quick, and you are liable to be frozen up at any moment. I hurried 
back to the boats; I told them we must start. There was a great 
deal of murmuring. I insisted upon going. They insisted upon car¬ 
rying everything, and much trash that they did not wish to lose. The 
consequence was, there had been no discipline. They loaded one boat 
full. I saw I could save but one boat. I ordered the natives to follow 
me across the floe. I had not gone more than two hundred yards before 
a hurricane burst upon me. I got across the ice; but when I got there I 
saw the natives had not followed me. Whether they thought too much of 
their property or were afraid of the storm, I do not know, but the cook 
was with me, and he ran back to where the natives werei One or two 
murmured about getting in the boat; but I would have shoved off as 
long as I had strength, but when I looked for the oars there were only 
three, and there was no rudder. I had told them to prepare the boat, 
but in the coufusion I did not take notice of that, and when I got there 
I saw there were only three oars. It may have been negligence on my 
part; I did not probably think so at the time. I told the men to pre¬ 
pare the boat; to have all in her—oars, rudder, and sails; then I found 
they were all in confusion; they did not wish to go. Possibly I could 
not have reached the land had I been fully equipped, as the wind was 
blowing furiously. But I should have attempted it if 1 had had the 
oars and men to assist me; but 1 had only three oars, and we were blown 
back like a feather. I was thus compelled to haul the boat back on the 
ice again. I wanted to do so, but the men were exhausted, and I could 
not blame them for not working. The night was coming on, and I had 
to leave the boat with nearly everything in her. 1 left the canned meat, 
some clothing, and what little other stuff there Avasin her. I went back, 
and put up a little canvas tent. It snowed heavy, but in the morning 
it melted, and I could see the land. I was then some thirty to thirty- 
five miles from the ship. I could see where the ship was, and all that 
there was between me and the vessel. There was the boat and six bags 
of bread on the other piece of ice. I called the crew to get it, but they 
could not do it; they Avere afraid to do it. 1 had to let it go. I had no 
Avav of enforcing my commands. I did the best I could, but I was ail 
alone. We drifted away from that piece over to the southwest. The 
crew were all on the other piece, and I called on them to assist me in 
saving the provisions aud bread that was on the other piece, but I could 
not get them to do it; I had to let it go. We drifted away on the small 
piece, from the large piece which had the six bags of bread. I lost sight 
of it. As soon as the weather Avould permit, I told the natives they 
must commence sealing; Ave must haA r e something to eat. We shot three 
seals one day. The separate floe that we were on was, perhaps, one hun- 


15 


dred and fifty yards across each way. After we got tlie three seals, the 
weather came in bad again. I had iost my compass; it was in the other 
boat. I supposed the wind to be southwest. The weather continued 
bad several days; but when it cleared I was within about six miles of 
the east shore, I supposed. But the ice was very weak between us and 
the land; it was the new ice; I could not walk on it. I was waiting for 
the ice to get firmer, when, one morning, Joe, spying around, saw the end 
of the boat on the same floe we had lost. He called me and I saw the boat. 
It was about twelve o’clock in the day, and we had not had our break¬ 
fast. We started over for the boat, and brought it back, and so got all 
together again. We put the bread into the boat. I had some dogs 
with me'; five or six came over to me from the piece of ice. When I 
say “ me,” I mean my party. We got the bread into the boat, and at¬ 
tached the dogs to the boat, and dragged it and all the things that were 
there over to the other piece of ice that we were encamped upon. There 
we saved it all. We had all together again. I now concluded it was 
my duty to reach the shore as soon as the ice would permit—as soon as 
it was firm enough. It was very rough. I had no sledge, so I must 
work at a disadvantage. I did not dare abandon any provisions, for 
fear we never should see the vessel again. As soon as the ice got strong 
enough, so that I thought it would support the boats, I loaded them, and 
attached the dogs to the boats, and dragged them one at a time. Now, 
the large piece of ice lay about half-way to the shore ; between it and the 
small piece we were on. There was no sun then, but it was light about 
six hours in a day. We dragged the boat over to the floe, and then 
went back and got the second one. We still had two kyaks there. 
The natives got them out on the ice. They will tell you, perhaps, how 
it was that, when Captain Buddington hurried them out of the vessel, 
they got their things out. We then had the principal articles on the 
heavy floe. It was then dark, and we could do no more. The next 
morning the wind was northeast, and we were drifting off rapidly. I 
called the crew together. I wanted them to save the kyaks, and to 
save the little stuff there was on the other floe. I wished them to do 
it, but I could not get them to do it. Joe went over on foot, and got 
some of the stuff, and then two of the men ventured across and saved 
the kyak. One of them was the negro cook and the other William 
Nindemann. We drifted off in the darkness, and I could not see any 
thing more for a number of days. It was darkness and storm all 
through the month of November, I believe. The first land I saw was 
January 19. We were now all on the same original piece of ice to 
which the ship had been tied. It was still a large piece, and only one 
corner had been nipped off*—still four or five miles in circumference. I 
had then recovered my compass, and we made snow-houses on the ice. 
We had lost sight of Northumberland Island, and could not tell how 
fast we drifted. It was all night then, and darkness. 

Question. How did you live on the ice ? 

Answer. We built our snow-huts. We were compelled to build them 
in the night. We all assisted. Joe sawed out the blocks. They were 
built of hard-packed snow, packed by the wind. They are sawed out 
with saws. They are square blocks, about two and a half feet by eighteen 
to twenty inches thick. We laid them just as you would blocks of 
stone in laying a wall. The huts are built bee hive shaped, with a hole 
large enough to crawl into them at the bottom. They were a little 
more than six feet high inside. There was one hut for the men ; there 
were nine of them in one hut; Hans’ family were in another; and Joe, 
Hannah, their child, and myself in another; and there was another hut 


16 


for the store-house. Mr. Meyers lived with the men. I can scarcely tell 
you how we lived in those huts. We all got in. We had a few musk¬ 
ox skins. We got the old canvas from the old tent, and laid that for a 
flooring 5 then laid a musk ox skin over that; and then we had a skin 
over us. We had two lanterns ; we burned them for light. We made 
them from old tin pemmiean-cans. We made our drinking-vessels of 
those old meat cans, and we made our Esquimaux lamps of the tin 
pemmican-cans. An Esquimaux lamp is composed of stone generally. 
They burn oil. It is in the form of a shallow dish, and the wicking is 
laid on around the edge. The dish is filled with seal-oil, and has a little 
wicking around the edge, which is lighted. The Esquimaux use moss 
for wicking. This makes a flame of about the height of that of a com¬ 
mon lamp. The wick, resting on the edge of the lamp and partially in 
the oil, draws up the oil as it burns by the heat. AVe had no moss, and 
so we got the canvas, and cut that up for wick. The men did not burn 
any at first, but we burned one in our hut. They did not want any for 
heat, as there were so many of them in the hut; and, besides, they did 
not know how to burn one. They cut up one boat to burn for heating 
water. After they had consumed the boat, they had to come to the 
lamp. They were taught how to use it, and got along very well with it 
when we got suflicient oil for them. We had eleven and a half bags 
of bread, fourteen cans of pemmican, weighing forty-five pounds apiece. 
It is concentrated meat, eaten in the form of soup generally, sometimes 
just as it is in the cans, being already cooked, and sometimes it is 
warmed up simply. We had fourteen hams, probably weighing nine or 
ten pounds apiece; they were small ones. We had ten dozen cans of 
meats and soups, one and two pound cans; one can of dried apples, 
weighing twenty-two pounds; and about twenty pounds of chocolate 
and sugar mixed together. We had chocolate about four times, when 
some of them got into the store house, and ate it all up. That is all. 
The provisions were kept in the store-house, and served' out by weight. 
Mr. Meyer got up some weights from shot, and it was weighed out. 
The daily consumption for each person was eleven ounces. I established 
that ration. There was much murmuring about it, but we had to come 
lower than that afterward; I established eleven ounces of bread and 
pemmican. Occasionally we would change, and, instead of pemmican, 
we would take ham. But the men bore it well, considering, though 
there was a great deal of murmuring at first. The change was so sud¬ 
den that it weakened them all down. I was so weak myself at first that 
I staggered as I walked, until I got accustomed to it. 1 came up after¬ 
ward. But the men bore it very well after we got accustomed to it. 
They were late in seeing the reason of it. 

I endeavored to maintain the discipline of the party as well 
as I could : but there was little or nothing that could be called disci¬ 
pline. Every man was armed with pistols but myself; I was on the ice 
without anything, and they did as they pleased. I could merely advise 
them. They had been under no discipline on the ship, and on the ice it 
was no place to establish discipline without assistance. If I had at¬ 
tempted to do it by force, I could have made an example of one of them ; 
but why should I ? They were all leagued together. I endeavored to 
preserve discipline, but I could only do it by advice, and doing the best 
I could for all of us. 

Question. Did they get better afterward ? 

Answer. They got really no worse. They had many plans of their 
own, concocted during the winter, but they did not know how to carry 
them out, and so it all ended right; they all had to come eventually to 


17 


me. 1 did not have a soul to assist me; Mr. Meyers was sick much of 
the time. I was clear from the rest of the party, and relied principally 
for assistance on the ice on the natives; and toward spring they got 
frightened, and really 1 thought they were going to make disturbance; 
but it was through fright; they were afraid of starvation. There was 
no guard over the provisions; but it was so that we could tell if any¬ 
body went in to the store house. In such a time, in an Arctic winter, 
we could not keep a guard, clothed and fed as we were. We suffered 
very much from the cold. If we had had enough food, we would not 
have cared for any other thing. Mr. Meyers had some position as an 
officer, but he was not well; he was not well when we came on the ice, 
and has not been well at any time on the ice; he is well now. I could 
merely advise the men ; I told them what the consequence would be if 
they ate up the provisions before a certain time. 

Question. What was your plan ? 

Answer. My idea was that we should drift to the west, and that we 
should probably get ashore at Hudson’s Straits; I did not suppose we 
should drift so rapidly. Could I make the provisions last till March, I 
knew we could get an abundance of seals, and once getting into the 
mouth of Hudson’s Straits I could find natives. I knew a number of 
tribes along the coast, and they knew me; and eventually I should 
get to the ships. But I was drifted past all these places, so that it was 
necessary to get seals as much as we could. We began to get them 
about the first of March; we had caught a very few—now and then a 
seal. We had no blubber, so that we were fearful we should have none 
for light. But when it was all consumed, the natives would catch 
another small.seal. They were caught in the cracks of ice in the water— 
speared or shot. In March or April anybody can catch them on the 
ice. Early in March we caught a good many seals—I could not tell how 
many; some days six, eight, or ten a day, or three or four a day. We 
had all the meat we wauted then. The latter part of March we were 
driven to sea off Hudson’s Straits. I did not see the land, so as to know 
where we were; but I knew by the current I was off the straits. I 
made land in about latitude 74°. Then I saw Cape Walsingham, which 
is about 76°. I had been along there before, and I thought I recog¬ 
nized it. But when I was off Hudson’s Straits I knew it by the cur¬ 
rents and by the seals we were getting. It is the only place where we 
can get what we call the bladder-nosed seal: or some call them the 
hooded seal. I knew where we were by them ; and I told the men that, 
if they would be patient, we would find bladder-nosed seal. And we 
did so ; we got quite a number there. Soon the pups appeared on the 
ice, and we got a number of them. We shot a bear also on the ice. He 
came on over the ice. They cruise everywhere by sea on the ice. I 
have met them a hundred and fifty miles from land. It was evening, 
and we discovered him out there easing some skins and blubber. We 
had some difficulty in getting to our guns. I finally got to a rifle, but 
the cartridge refused to go. I got in and got a new cartridge, and shot 
him directly through the heart; killed him at once. In the latter part 
of March we were driven to sea; and now it became necessary for us 
to get off the piece, and abandon the snow-liuts we had occupied 
all winter. The piece was then not more than twenty-five paces 
across; the water was nearly up to the liut-door. The ice had all 
broken up. Either way you could not have made twenty-five paces 
without going off. The huts had been placed on the highest and 
stoutest part of the ice at first. One boat had been cut up for fuel, 
and we had but one. I had accumulated enough meat to last through 

2 p 


18 


April, and, perhaps, till the middle of May. I had laid in that 
stock in hopes we could cling to the piece of ice until we could 
reach Labrador. But we were driven off; on the first day of April we 
left that piece. I tried to carry a portion of the meat. We had re¬ 
paired the boat, and tried to carry off the meat. I repaired it by put¬ 
ting some copper and seal skins over the hull. This boat is now at Bay 
Roberts, Newfoundland. I found we must get to the pack-ice for pro¬ 
tection—the ice that drifts along the west coast in a solid pack. Our 
piece was off to sea. So I took the boat and all the gear I could carry, 
arms, and a portion of the meat. But before we got to the pack, there 
was a little sea on, and I had to throw the meat overboard. That disa¬ 
bled me again, but I got to the pack the second day, with all the men, 
women, and children. I stopped the first day, and hauled the boat up, 
and lightened the boat, throwing over everything we could well spare, 
and the next morning launched again, and went toward the west. The 
next night I hauled up again. I got a little way into the pack in one 
day, and the next day a little farther. It was blowing heavy, and we 
were finally stopped, and hauled up on a large, heavy piece. The ice 
closed in around us, and the gale smashed the ice all about into pieces, 
and broke the piece on which we were up into a small piece, compara¬ 
tively. The other ice around us was smashed. We had a little bread 
left and a few cans of pemmican. Being without meat, and not able to 
get any seals, we had to live on the pemmican and bread which we had. 
We came down to as small a quantity as we could live upon, and lived 
in this way several days. We were still on the piece of ice we had got 
on to when we got into the pack. I think it was then, on the 20th of 
April, that a heavy sea drove in and washed us nearly off. We stood 
by the boat, the sea breaking over us, and washing large pieces of ice 
across our piece. We were in this condition, clinging to the boat, all 
night. The children were in the boat. In the morning we launched 
our boat, and got on to another piece of ice that was riding more easily 
in the sea. It was a fearful night; we were all wet through, and were 
never thoroughly dry afterward until we were picked up. After we got 
on to the last piece of ice we rode the gale out, but had scarcely any- 
hing to eat. I myself, on the 22d day of April, ate a piece of dried 
seal-skin*, and the next day I should have eaten the kyak. We had 
with us now one boat and the kyak. The kyak had a string to it, and 
we hauled it from the other piece of ice. The kyak is now on board the 
Frolic. We rode the gale out on that piece, and we were nearly starved. 
We had two biscuits, ten to the pound, a day, and a little pemmican. 
On the 22d day of April we had nothing left but the kyak and some 
dried seal-skins. That night a bear came along, and we shot him. We 
saw him at a distance, and all hands lay down upon the ice; and the 
bear, supposing we were seals, came close by. We had no guns but 
those of Hans and Joe; and Hans and Joe both shot him. We bound a 
line to him and hauled him onto the ice, and cut him up, having a hearty 
meal. We ate the meat raw ; the blubber was very poor, and we could 
not cook with it; we used often to make fire for cooking with the fat of 
animals we killed, and so cooked ; but this was too poor. A few days 
after this we got into the water again; that is, we launched the boat; 
the ice opened. As we went on we found seals—picked up quite a num¬ 
ber on the ice; we took what we could carry, and kept on in that way 
until we were picked up. When picked up we had three large bags of 
seal-meat—entrails and skins. We never wasted anything when we shot 
an animal. We were picked up on the last day of April, on a small 
piece of ice; it was 5 o’clock in the morning. The day before we saw 


19 


two vessels; one was close to ns. We fired and shouted to them, and 
set colors. We heard their guns, but heard after we arrived at Saint 
John’s they were shooting seals, and did not see us. The ship was the 
Eagle, I believe. The next night I kept fires burning all night—fires of 
blubber. X had three fires, and they made a blaze two feet high; I was 
in hopes some df the ships would see it; but it came up foggy, and no¬ 
body saw it. About 5 o’clock in the morning the Tigress came along in 
the fog; we fired guns and set up colors. They heard nothing, but they 
saw the colors. I ordered Hans to launch the kyak. He did so, and 
kept on and paddled up alongside the steamer. He sung out in his 
broken English, “American steamer.” The Tigress steamed up to our 
piece, and took us off at 5 o’clock in the morning. We had hard time 
on the ice when we left our original floe. At night we slept in the boat, 
half lying down at a time, the other half remaining on the ice, keeping 
a look-out. We all had to do what we could. I had no difficulty with 
the men at any time, but had, at times, cause of difficulty, but I 
said little, and got on as well as I could, for I knew that we could 
never be saved unless all stood together; that the moment we 
commenced quarreling, our lives would be in danger. One day in 
the winter one of the men threatened me; but he found he was 
not the man that he thought he was, and left. He came into the hut 
one day, and used abusive language about some pemmican, and about 
some of the provisions. It was about the distribution of it. Finally 
he said he could give me a thrashing; but he went off. He left the 
hut very suddenly, and came back and apologized. When the Tigress 
rescued us she was looking for seals; it was her second trip this season* 
She had eight or twelve thousand on board. The captain used me very 
kindly. He kept on sealing for some days, but finally concluded to clear 
up for home. He killed six hundred just before he started for home; 
but he could not get his ship up to them that night, and some other 
vessel got up there and took most of the seals, so that in the morning, 
when his ship got there, they found only two hundred and seventy out 
of the six hundred. He went into Bay Boberts, and there landed some 
of his crew and most of his boats, and started for Saint John’s, and 
got there the 12th day of May. We were twelve days on board the 
steamer. She was a Newfoundland steamer, and was under English 
colors. When Hans said u American steamer,” he meant that an Ameri¬ 
can steamer had been lost. He was trying to tell them where he came 
from. 

Question. It was stated in the papers that the scientific records of 
the party were on the ice when you were separated from the Polaris ? 

Answer. Mr. Meyers’s records and those of Mr. Bryan were on the 
ice. Mr. Meyers had them all in one case together, and he lost them ; 
how, I do not know. 

Question. Did you keep any diary ? 

Answer. I commenced one after we went into winter quarters, but it 
was on board the Polaris. I had nothing on the ice. I threw overboard 
a bag that had two shirts in it, and two pair of drawers, and four pair 
of stockings. That was all of my gear that I had on the ice. I found 
them among the clothes-bags after we got adrift. I did not know the 
bag was there for several days, but on looking over the bags I found 
mine there. I changed my clothing once in six and a half months. I 
think some have diaries that they kept on the ice. I think Mr. Meyers 
has, and the steward, John Heron, may have. He is English. The 
cook was William Jackson. He is a mulatto. The latitude where we 
were picked up was said to be 53° 30', longitude about 55°—off the 


20 


Wolf Islands. I saw the land there. 1 think it was about thirty-five 
or forty miles off. 

Question. Do you think you could have got ashore ? 

Answer. I had got something to eat then ; I do not know why we 
could not have got ashore; I had made more than that distance before 
in the boat. If the ice had opened I should have gone ashore. The 
islands are uninhabited; but in by the Wolf Islands there is Battle 
Harbor, and in the straits there are inhabitants, but none on Wolf 
Islands. 

Question. Did anything remarkable happen while you were at Disco, 
and was there any difficulty with any of the officers or crew? 

Answer. Nothing very remarkable, sir. The most remarkable thing 
on board I know of was the conduct of the sailing-master, Captain Bud- 
dington ; I don’t like much to speak of it, sir, but if I must tell all I 
know and thought, I must say that he was a disorganizer from tbe very 
commencement. 

Question. How do you mean ; how did he disorganize? 

Answer. By associating himself with the crew, and slandering his 
commander, and in other ways that I might mention. 

Question. Let us have the whole of it. 

Answer. Well, sir, he associated himself with the crew very much, 
cursing his commander, and blaming him, and speaking slightingly of 
him. 

Question. Was it Captain Hall of whom he so spoke ? 

Answer. Yes, sir. 

* Question. In what way, particularly ? 

Answer. In his own way; I could not describe it to you. 

Question. What seemed to be his ground of complaint, if any ? 

Answer. His ground of complaint was, that the captain was not a sea¬ 
man. On the most frivolous things he would be among the crew and 
complaining of Captain Hall. 

Question. Was he insubordinate to the captain in any way? 

Answer. O, no, sir; he was very subordinate to the captain in his 
presence. 

Question. Anything else ? 

Answer. Nothing more, in particular; he was inclined to take pro¬ 
visions, sir, and privately consume them. 

Question. Was Captain Hall aware that he was acting in this way ? 

Answer. I suppose he was. 

Question. Did Captain Hall have any particular difficulty with him 
or anybody else on board the ship? 

Answer. Just as we were leaving Saint John’s, he had a difficulty with 
Captain Bnddington, and he threatened to send him home at Disco. 

Question. What about? 

Answer. I did not see it; as nearly as I could ascertain, it was about 
drawing the staple of one pf the lockers that contained some provisions. 
I do not mean liquor; it was something to eat. I forget what it was, 
whether it was sugar or milk„or what. 

Question. That was the first difficulty you knew of? 

Answer. Thar was the first words I knew of his having with Captain 
Buddington. 

Question. Were you present at the conversation ? 

Answer. No, sir; I heard it from Captain Buddington himself. I 
suppose I may as well say how I came to hear it. He came out on deck, 
cursing as usual, and said i( was likely he would go home at Disco; 
but he believed something would happen to get him out of it; he never 


21 


did get iuto a bad scrape that he did not get out of. Captain Hall 
called me into a room, and asked me about it. I told him I thought 
Buddington had taken a little too much, and that probably he would 
do better in the future; and it passed over. 

Question. Did anything more of this kind happen at Disco? 

Answer. All that happened, I believe, was that Captain Buddington 
broke into the liquor there. 

Question. Where was it kept ? 

Answer. The liquor was some of it in the u run,” down under the 
cabin; some was forward in some of the rooms. I found it afterward, 
on collecting it together, by Captain Hall’s order. He commenced 
breaking into the liquor in the 11 run.” The first that I was aware of it, 
I believe, was the day that the Congress left. He asked me if I wanted 
a glass of wine; 1 told him yes. He had a large chest back of the 
alley-way, and he opened it, and it was full of wine. I asked him who 
his friends were that sent him the wine. He said no matter who they 
were. The wine v r as claret, in bottles—a light wine. 

Question. Was this known to Captain Hall ? 

Answer. O, no, sir. In fact, nobody knew it at the time. I do not 
know where he got it. 

Question. Was it known that he had it ? 

Answer. O, no, sir. 

Question. When you left the Polaris, Captain Buddington was in com¬ 
mand ? 

Answer. Yes, sir. Nobody disputed his command from the time that 
Captain Hall died until our separation. There had been no dispute of 
Captain Buddiugton’s commands. We were all law-abiding people on 
board. There was no violence whatever at any time. I believe about 
everybody thought the command w 7 as not a good one; but we still all 
submitted. 

Question. Did you know of any difficulty between anybody who was 
left on board and Captain Buddington? 

Answer. Nothing more than that feeling that will always be between 
an incompetent man and a subordinate who thinks him so. 

Question. What kind of a man was Chester? 

Answer. A peaceable, good man under a good commander. 

Question. Morton, how did he get along? 

Answer. He is an honest man ; but we all know he is not a sailor. 
Keep him straight, and he is honest and fair. 

Question. Then, so far as you know, there was no open rupture of 
any kind between anybody and Captain Buddington? 

Answer. There was no open and lasting rupture. As I told you, the 
doctor and he had a little rupture over the alcohol; but it amounted to 
nothing. It was laughed off afterward. 

Question. The criticism you have to make of Captain Buddington is, 
that he would get drunk when he had a chance? 

Answer. The criticism I have to make is, that the man had neither 
heart nor soul in the expedition. It was not his intention to go north 
if he could help it. His idea w T as to go to Port Foulke, and spend his 
time, while the others tried to get to the pole; while he was taking 
care of himself the others should go on ; and then he would return home 
with the rest. That was the headquarters he had fixed on ; he did not 
want to go above that. He wanted the ship to lie there, and the rest 
to go on. That was his whole ambition. 

Question. How did you gather that? 

Answer. I gathered it from his own conversation. He tried to pre- 


22 


vent the ship from going up Smith’s Sound; and after he got carried 
there, he finally succeeded in stopping her where she was stopped for the 
winter. As soon as Captain Hall died, he tried to have the ship return 
farther south. He swore nobody should do anything. 

Question. Didn’t he let you go off with the boats? 

Answer. Yes, sir; but I told him we should lose them. He would 
not advise with the doctor, and between the two there was a mess made 
of it. There was no use in my saying anything at the time, nothing 
whatever. If he had started a sledge-expedition overland, there would 
have been a high latitude reached. I told him so, I think. 

Question. How do you account for the ship’s not coming to you to help 
you off the ice ? 

Answer. That I do not know how to account for. I was surprised 
that it did not come. It might have been that it was in a sinking con¬ 
dition, but I think not. I think the vessel that I saw under steam and 
sail at sea could not be in a sinking condition. But he went in there, 
* and tied up. She was upright, and appeared to be all right when I 
looked at her with the glass. 

Question. Have you any reason to think they saw you ? 

Answer. I cannot see how they could avoid it, if they were looking 
for us. It was daylight, and they were within four miles, I think. I 
had a flag of rubber-cloth set upon an oar, and that should have been 
distinguished quite a distance over the white ice. It was a large rubber- 
cloth, one that was made for lying upon ice. It was black, and easily to 
be seen. They could have recognized the shape of the floe as the 
one that they had been fastened to for months, and they must have*seen 
such a body of men. I could have seen on board the ship; I could have 
seen the men if I had tried; but I did not take time; but I could 
have seen a man if one had been walking on the house. But the mo¬ 
ment I saw her in safety, I knew we were about to be abandoned, for 
some cause or other, I could not tell why ; I don’t know whether it was 
for good reason or not; I can’t tell without knowing the condition of 
the ship, and their idea of our condition. I had seen the pumps tried 
before she broke away, and didn’t think she was making much water. 
But I do not know what injury she sustained after drifting away; I do not 
think she sustained much, if any, because the ice was loose. It is ice 
rushing in upon you between bergs that produces injury. But when 
she came down all day under steam and sail, and then lay by, I could 
not think it was right; at least while I was on the ice I could not 
feel so. There was land nearer, but not so convenient a bay as that 
where she lay. She will lie there till this July, and then she will 
break out. It may be that he thought we had all the boats, and sup¬ 
posed we would come to him. He knew that I had nineteen persons 
there; he knew that I had much provision, but he could not be certain 
that I had a boat. If he had been looking in the day-time with a glass 
he might have seen the boats, I think; but unless he did that, he could 
not have been certain that we saved the boats; but he would have 
known that we saved the provisions. 

Question. Would not he naturally think that he should save the ship 
and let you come to him in the boat ? 

Answer. That may have been his idea; but at that time I thought the 
first thought should have been to save the people off the ice. When the 
wind changed so suddenly, it was his duty to come and save us. 

Question. Still, the possibility may remain, that in' securing the ship 
in the harbor, he may have supposed that you and theEsquimaux could 
reach him ? 


23 


Answer. Yes, sir; I cannot imagine he would abandon us, but that it 
was a matter of bad judgment, and perhaps some indifference. The 
people on board would not have been content to abandon us if they had 
known it was the intention to do so. They might not have known that 
it was possible to save us, and if they did, they would not have known 
what to do, nor would their judgment have been good for anything in 
the matter. The health of Dr. Bessel was good at the time, as also that 
of Mr. Bryan, and indeed all aboard. Mr. Bryan was indeed a fiue 
young man. He was busy in making his astronomical observations, 
and he was a pleasant, genial man—about the only one I found on board 
the ship to associate intimately with, and I was very fond of him. The 
ship had an ample supply of provisions to last the party there, should 
they keep to the vessel, until their arrival at Disco. They have enough 
to last them two years, if they live with economy. Should they stick to 
the vessel, this would be enough. I think that under almost any other 
commander the vessel would be all right, but under his command, I 
don’t know. He could only get wood out of the vessel to make 
boats. I don’t think she had over twelve or fifteen tons of coal. She 
used about five or six tons a day, generally, about five tons. They 
never had any blubber to make steam with, and the devices they took 
along for burning blubber were, I believe, thrown overboard early in 
the season. 

Question. Was the vessel left in a position where they could get any 
food? 

Answer. Yes, sir ; there was game in plenty—walrus, seals, bears ; 
and, in the summer-time, ducks and eggs. I believe there are salmon 
there at times. There is an abundance of birds in the spring in the 
vicinity of Northumberland Island. I am so informed by Hans, who 
has wintered there. I think about July they will break out if they stick 
to the vessel. It is about three hundred miles from Northumberland 
Island to the nearest permanent Danish settlement. If he had a clear 
way, he could make it in two days, and in about three days under sail. 
She sails well with good winds. She gets off five or six knots under 
sail, which is well for the amount of canvas she carries. But she is not 
easily handled under sail in rough water. 

Question. Is there difficulty in an ordinary ship’s getting to TJper- 
navik ? 

Answer. No, sir, in the right season; say in July or August. 

Question. What is the latest time that a steamer ought to start from 
New York to go to Northumberland Island or Upernavik ? 

Answer. If you wish to start one to intercept the Polaris, it would be 
well to start by the first of July. 

Question. On the supposition the ship will not float, and he has to be 
rescued, what is the best time to go ? 

Answer. She should leave New York by the middle of July; she could 
then be at Northumberland Island about the 10th of August, which 
would be at the right time. It is not safe to stay around in that vicinity 
in September. A deep snow-storm may come, and form “ pash,” and 
stop a vessel very much. No sealers go there; I do not think the whalers 
ever go as high as Northumberland Island. They come up to Cape York 
once in a while. That is in latitude 76°. There are natives right off by 
Northumberland Island, and you can find them there; Hayes found them 
there. Hans says there are natives there; his wife came from there. 
The natives are peaceable enough now. They will find the natives com¬ 
ing around hunting there. Parties will be there, if they were not when 
they went in. They hunt up and down the coast, wherever the walrus 


24 


goes; so Hans tells me. I should not feel myself in any danger there if 
I was in a ship that would float. 

Question. Have you any idea whether this will be an open season in 
that latitude? 

Answer. Ho, sir; but I think it will. There have been northerly winds 
blowing all winter long, and heavy; I think the ice will be blown out of 
the country. There has been an unusual amount of ice off the Labrador 
coast. They have had nothing but north winds winter, blowing very 
heavy indeed. 

Question. Hid Captain Hall intend to be away more than two weeks 
when he set out on his sledge journey ? 

Answer. I do not know his exact intentions; he said, on starting, that 
he would be gone about a fortnight. I don’t know how high he expected 
to go that trip, but, speaking about it before he started, he said to me, 
referring to Captain Buddington, u I cannot trust that man. I want to 
go on a sledge journey, and I want you to go with me, but I don’t know 
how to leave him on the ship; I want to go on this sledge journey, and 
I want to reach a higher latitude than Parry did before my return.” 

A few days afterward he told me he would leave me and take Chester. 
In case the vessel should break out, he wanted me there to assist Cap¬ 
tain Buddington. He left written instructions, but I do not know what 
they were. He took Chester with him, and they got up to Hewman’s 
Bay, latitude 82° 6'. That was the farthest they got on that journey. 

Question. What became of his papers after he died ? 

Answer. I do not know ; I thiuk the native Esquimaux Joe has some 
now in a box. I saw the handwriting of Captain Hall in the winter in 
a box. I told him to keep them safe. I understand since that he took 
them out of the ship. I am afraid that those which Joe rescued will be 
all that will be left of Captain Hall’s papers. 

Question. Was there no public examination of his papers in the pres¬ 
ence of the officers? 

Answer. Ho, sir; his journal was taken round, and scanned by one 
and another. 

Question. Were they not certified and sealed up ? 

Answer. Ho, sir. 

Question. Hid not you mess with Captain Buddington? 

Answer. Yes, sir; we messed with him. 

Question. Hid not you know what he did with the papers ? 

Answer. I did not know what he did ; I saw some of them; I know 
many remarks were made about them ; I understood some were burned; 

I cannot tell who did it. 

Question. Hid anybody suggest that the papers should be sealed up? 

Answer. I did myself; that they should be sealed, boxed, and screwed 
down, and suggested it to Captain Buddington. 

Question. What did he say ? 

Answer. He did not make any remark whatever, or merely his usual 

II Hamn his papers.” 

, Question. Hid any come into your possession ? 

■Answer. Ho, sir. 

Question. Hid anybody else suggest that they should be saved ? 

Answer. It was talked of, that his papers and books should be boxed 
and sealed. 

Question. Wliat became of the account of his northern sledge jour¬ 
ney ? 

Answer. That was on board the ship. 

Question. Hid you see it ? 


25 


Answer. I did not see it. 

Question. Did be keep a regular journal daily ? 

Answer. Yes, sir; I believe be did ; I think it was one of tbe bound 
books ; one that could not be put in a pocket. 

Question. When did you see that last ? 

Answer. I think it was after Captain Hall’s death, and Captain Bud- 
din gton was reading it. 

Question. While Captain Hall was in a delirious state did anybody 
meddle with his papers ? 

Answer. Not that I know of. 

Question. While he was delirious did Captain Buddington get him to 
burn up some papers ? 

Answer. He told me he was glad the papers were burned, because 
they were much against him ; and he got him to burn them. 

Question. Did nobody see him burning them ? 

Answer. I do not know; I heard it talked of on board the ship, and 
I supposed it to be the truth. There was something more in the journal 
that he would like to get out; but, of course, he could not do it. He 
told me that Captain Hall’s handwriting was very peculiar. 

Question. Did Captain Buddington keep a journal, or continue Cap¬ 
tain Hall’s journal? 

Answer. I did not see any; Mr. Chester kept the ship’s log. 

Question. Who kept the reckoning, to navigate the ship ? 

Answer. Captain Hall. 

Question. Did he take observations? 

Answer. Yes, sir; he did it chiefly. He would have us all out, work¬ 
ing up observations, to see how they would come together. 

Question. Did you see the chart every day as you went north ? 

Answer. No, sir; I did not see the ship’s position put down very 
often. 

Question. Have you never looked at the chart upon which her track 
was put down ? 

Answer. No, sir; I think Mr. Meyer drew one up; but I am afraid 
he has lost it. That I have never seen. He drew it up through the 
winter. 

Question. Was the ship’s position marked on the chart every day? 

Answer. Yes, sir; but we got off the chart; and we had to make an 
entirely new chart; and as to the localities south, Kane’s and Hayes’s 
were found to be in error. 

Question. In whose charge would the new chart be? 

Answer. It should have been in Dr. Bessels’s, I suppose, after Cap¬ 
tain Hall’s death. 

Question. Did Dr. Bessels have a chart of his own ? 

Answer. I do not know. 

Question. Was he capable of constructing a chart? 

Answer. I suppose so ; but I do not know. 

We found right opposite the place where we went into winter-quarters, 
in latitude 81° 38', traces of Esquimaux huts. We found rings of stones 
laid around, and in digging about these stones we found spear heads, 
pieces of bone, and small implements. These huts were possibly thirty 
or forty years old. The land there was entirely clear of snow. It was 
a plain. The soil on that plain absorbs the moisture rapidly. It is a 
light clay. .1 did not find any stone arrow-heads. All that we found 
were of bone. The spear heads were made of walrus-teeth. All these 
things were delivered to Dr. Bessels, and are probably in liis possession. 
If he has not lost them they are on board the Polaris. When we went 


26 


in there, in the latter part of August, all the land was bare of snow. 
It was about the 20th of August. All the land around the plain was 
bare of snow at that time. There is an elevation of 1,800 feet entirely 
destitute of snow. There were hills on the sea-coast, 1,800 to 2,000 feet 
high, entirely clear of snow. The soil absorbed the moisture very 
rapidly, so that it dried very fast. We could not see any inland sum¬ 
mits; but as far as we could see the mountain-ranges in the interior 
they were all clear of snow. The temperature in summer is very hot 
on the land. On the top of the elevations it was warm. I crossed 
them in the summer. There are little bunches of flowers and willows. 
They have any quantity of specimens of these on board the ship. There 
is but very little grass, but there are these little flowers and willows 
and mosses in spots. The prevailing hue of the landscape is a dark 
gray. The highest elevation that I saw clear of snow I should 
judge was 2,000 to 2,500 feet high. In the distance I think 
I saw some 2,500 to 3,000. The willows run along the ground 
like a vine. The musk-ox is up there; we killed them ; I killed twelve 
in one hunting excursion, in two days, to the north of this plain, in lat¬ 
itude S2 C . We only killed twenty-six, all told; that was in the spring, 
on the north side of Newman’s Bay. A musk-ox weighs about five or 
six hundred pounds, take them as they stand. They do not taste of 
musk at all in that latitude ; they are as good as beef. I do not know 
where they go in the winter-time. All the tracks that I saw m the 
spring were coming from the southeast. In the interior, Newman’s Bay 
runs southeast and northwest; and the oxen were coming from the head 
of the bay, from a southeast direction from off some feeding-ground they 
had; they were not afraid of us. The dogs that we had would check 
them off; as soon as the dogs approached, they formed a solid body, 
sterns together. We saw no wolves, but a few white foxes. When the 
oxen form thus in a body, looking at the dogs, all that the hunter has 
to do is to walk up and shoot them. I do not know whether they would 
be afraid of man ; I know that in Hudson’s Straits they will sometimes 
turn upon a hunter. They did not appear to be inclined to run for the 
dogs, although the men were in sight. Skins, skeletons, and horns were 
collected, and they are on board the ship. I did not see any reindeer. 
Joe and Doctor Bessels were off to the southward a little ways, and 
they shot a white bear; there are no brown bears there. We saw 
tracks of foxes; you always find foxes and bears where there are seals. 
The white bears up there are not as large as those farther south. The 
glaciers are so large south that I think they keep the snow on the land 
longer than where we were. I went right out where the land looked 
covered with snow and ice, and found it entirely clear of it. The tem¬ 
perature of the water was very low, but the land was clear of snow. 
We came upon land covered with snow and ice as we entered Kane’s 
Polar Sea; but the northernmost point of land we saw was bare; I at¬ 
tribute it to the sun’s shining continually there through the summer; 
it is very warm, and takes the snow off. I saw but few mosquitoes up 
there; there were flies, bumble-bees, and butterflies. I did not see any 
frogs up there, nor snakes. They collected a good many birds; there 
are some land-birds; I think they shot some ptarmigans up at the win¬ 
ter-quarters; some were shot when the plumage was changing; but 
they got very few eggs. There were ducks and brown geese, gulls, and 
ivory gulls. I did not see any penguins up north; I saw no whales 
there, or signs of any; we did not meet any whales on our cruise. The 
Polaris is a good ship, well fitted, and she was supplied abundantly, 
having a large superfluity of almost everything, in every way, except- 


27 


iug skin clothing, which Captain Hall relied upon getting on the Green 
laud coast; but he could not purchase any. She is a strong vessel; 
stronger than the Tigress, which rescued us; I saw her tried; she is a 
powerful vessel. You may take that as a fact, since she got up higher than 
any other vessel ever did and get out again, although she was badly han¬ 
dled. She needed nothing that could be supplied from the United States, 
that I can think of; she had an abundance of everything. And the 
quality of what she had was good as far as I know; some of it was very 
good, indeed. Some of it extra good; as,for instance, our potatoes, dried 
apples, onions, and pemmiean, which was splendid. All the preserved 
meats were good, and the weevils did not get in the bread; it is too 
cold for that. The brown bread was good ; the white was not so good. 
The flour was good. No fault was to be found either with the ship 
itself, its fitting, or its provisions. Of the northern light s I saw in the 
highest latitudes nothing but faint streaks, and those onlyoccasionally; 
not so distinct as I have seen them in New York. The lights were 
northeast of us. We saw them most, and most brilliant, wh en farther 
down, in about latitude 70°, though I think we saw them most dis¬ 
tinct in latitude G5° or GG°. Then, as we got to the latitude we wintered 
in, they were indistinct, and seemed to be northeast of us. It was a 
matter of discussion with the scientific people, and they did not know 
whether to call the streaks the aurora or not. I saw nothing in the 
direction of the magnetic pole resembling the aurora. We had very 
stormy, heavy weather, indeed; more thick nights than starlight. It 
blowed so heavy as to clean the ice right out. Another thing they did 
not know before is, that Smith’s Sound is open all winter long. What I 
mean is, that the ice is drifting all winter long. It is not solid till the 
latter part of February or March. The water here is very deep, I think; 
very deep in Polaris Bay. The winds drive the ice with great force; 
and I have seen many gales clean the ice entirely out. The whole of 
the bays were clear of ice excepting a little that would hang in by the 
land. But in the dark, in the winter, we would not want to steam there 
much. There are shrimps there, but I never saw any fish there at any 
time. I believe some of them tried fishing with the hook and line; but 
I do not think there are any fish there. The seals live on shrimps; 
these are very plenty, and they were quite large, as long as the finger. 
I saw no crabs; there are jelly-fish; we saw them as far as we went to 
the north. I do not think I saw a rainbow there. I heard some one 
say he saw one, but I did not see either a lunar or a solar bow. When 
Captain Hall was buried Mr. Bryan read service, acting as chaplain. 
We had religious services, on Sundays, in Captain Hall’s time, and some 
little time after his death; not long, however. In my statements I may omit 
some things that would be interesting. Everything in that country, no 
doubt, seems more commonplace to me than to others, and perhaps I do 
not think things interesting that are so. While Captain Hall was sick, 
I saw him every day. He was under medical treatment; Dr. Bessels 
was attending him. The doctor said that it was apoplexy; that was what 
he called it. He said he was paralyzed on one side ; he said he ran a 
needle into his leg, and that there was no feeling in it. But after that 
Captain Hall somewhat recovered, got around, and was taken down 
again suddenly and died. He appeared to have the use of his side 
when he recovered. He appeared rather strong. He walked around 
the cabin, and I think did some writing. He did not say anything 
about being numb on one side. He took medicine, I believe; but at 
times he strongly objected to taking it, and to having anything done for 
him. At other times he would be quite docile. Those that were around 


28 


him at the time can tell more about it; Mr. Chester and Mr. Morton 
were his principal attendants. Perhaps Joe and Hannah may have 
been with him. While he was sick I was out banking up the ship every 
day; and as it appeared to be the desire of Chester and Morton to 
watch with him every night, I kept one side. The doctor gave him his 
medicine, I believe; I do not know as he took medicine from anybody 
else. 

Question. Have you any opinion of your own as to the cause of his 
death ? 

Answer. I thought at the time that the man came to his death nat¬ 
urally ; it has been talked on board ship that it was foul; but I have 
no proof of it, and I could not say much about it. There were those 
that rejoiced in his death. 

Question. Who rejoiced in his death ? 

Answer. Captain Buddington. 

Question. Hid anybody else? 

Answer. I thought it relieved some of the scientific party of some 
anxiety. They did not mourn him, at least. I know Captain Bud- 
dington so expressed' himself, that he was relieved of a great load by 
the death of Captain Hall. 

Question. Why? 

Answer. I do not know ; I never asked him. He was too strict for 
him, I suppose. 

Question. Did Captain Hall do anything to interfere with the work of 
the scientific men ? 

Answer. I believe Captain Hall was not allowing them to take all 
the advantages they thought he should. 

Question. In what way ? 

Answer. They could tell better than I can. He wanted them to do 
as he said; and they wanted to do as they pleased. He wanted them 
to do their work in his way; and they wanted to do it in their own way. 
It referred to what they were doing, and not to absence from the ship. 
I do not think Mr. Bryan was included in this; I know that Mr. Meyer 
had some trouble with him on that score. He wished to do his work in 
his own way, and probably it was the best; and Captain Hall wished to 
have him do it in his. It was settled, I believe, so that Meyer did it in 
his own way. 

Question. Did you know auy difficulty between Captain Hall and Dr. 
Bessels? 

Answer. Nothing serious ; nothing serious between any of the scien¬ 
tific department and the captain, that I know of. 

Question. Do you know of any request that any of them made of him, 
that he positively refused to allow them to do ? 

Answer. No, sir; I believe not. These are things I am not very well 
posted in. 

Question. With whom were you most intimate on board the ship ? 

Answer. Not with many; the most intimate ones were Mr. Bryan, 
and the mate, Chester. I have already given my opinion of Mr. Chester. 
I think him a good man under a good commander. Mr. Bryan was a 
very fine young man. He was a general favorite; at least I thought so; 
he was my favorite. 

Question. Did he have any difficulty about the way he did his work? 

Answer. I believe not; I believe he had no difficulty with Captain 
Hall whatever. 

Question. You did not think there was any difficulty between Cap- 


29 


tain Hall and any of the scientific party, that would be an inducement 
for them to do anything toward injuring him ? 

Answer. No, sir; I did not think so then; and unless a man were a 
monster he could not do any such thing as that. He had not sufficient 
provocation; and no provocation should induce a man to do such a 
thing. 

Question. When Captain Buddington told you that he was very much 
relieved by Captain Hall’s death, what did you understand to be the 
reason ? 

Answer. I thiuk Captain Hall was too strict for him j and if Captain 
Hall had lived lie would have continued on northward, and Captain 
Buddington knew it. He did not wish to go any farther north, and 
so Captain Hall’s death was a relief on the part of Captain Buddington. 
He did not give his reasons ; I did not ask him. I did not hear any¬ 
body else say he felt relieved by it. 

Question. Did Captain Buddington make these remarks to you alone? 

Answer. He made them publicly, on board the ship. I think it was 
to some'of the people who are here. He is a careless-spoken man, and 
he certainly should not have made any such remarks. Perhaps lie did 
not mean all he said ; I hope he did not. 


0 


\ 


30 


EXAMINATION OF FREDERICK MEYER. 

Friday, June 6, 1873— 2. 10 p. m. 

The Secretary. Mr. Meyer, we have come together here for the pur¬ 
pose of getting the regular statements of all of the rescued party of the 
Polaris, expedition since it left Disco. We want your own statement in 
your own way; your own impressions, your own ideas, your own recollec¬ 
tions, uncolored by other people’s ideas. This is a matter of interest 
to a good many people on account of their personal knowledge of those 
who are rescued or those who are left behind. It is also a matter of 
great interest to the Government in view of its past and future action, 
and to science, in that it adds to the knowledge of the scientific world. 
Therefore, I desire your statement as carefully made as possible, and as 
fully as you can recall the circumstances. 

Answer. My name is Frederick Meyer. I am a native of Prussia. I 
have been in this country since 1864—nine years. I am an observer in 
the signal-service. I was appointed meteorologist on the Polaris expe¬ 
dition, aud detailed by the signal-service to take that position. I joined 
the expedition at the Brooklyn navy-yard. I joined the ship the day 
before she sailed. The Polaris started on the 29th of June, 1871. She 
left New l r ork Harbor for New London, Connecticut, and arrived there 
at 12 o’clock noon the next day, the 30th. As I understood, Captain 
Hall intended to procure a second engineer there. We left New London 
on the 3d of July for the coast of Greenland, and arrived at Fiskernaes, 
on the coast of Greenland—1 forget the exact date. The Polaris went 
in there because Captain Hall wanted to procure Hans as a hunter aud 
dog-driver, but he got information there that Hans had removed to Pro¬ 
ven, farther north, between Tessiusak and Upernavik. We started from 
Fiskernaes, and went into Holsteinburg with the intention to procure 
deer skins, but it was found that all the deer had left there some years 
since, and that no deer-skins could be got. From Holsteinburg we 
started for Godhaven, on the island of Disco, where the vessel was to 
wait for the supplies by the Congress. There we were delayed one 
week, when the Congress camew ith provisions and coal. Two or three 
days after the arrival of the Congress we started again, with the inten¬ 
tion to call in at Upernavik, where the inspector of the northern district 
of Greenland resides—Inspector Smith—who thought that Captain Hall 
could procure some seal and dog skins there. We got quite a number of 
these skins, and then proceeded from there to Tessiusak. This is in lati¬ 
tude 73° 24'. There is a large bay there, and a number of islands in 
front of it. On one of the islands is the small settlement of Tessiusak. 
Upernavik is in latitude 72° 53'. I made the observations myself. Tes¬ 
siusak is between Upernavik and Devil’s Thumb. There is a large bay 
there, and a glacier in the background, aud many icebergs. It is marked 
on Arrowsmith’s map about where Sugar-Loaf Island is. There are only 
a few native huts there, built of stone and earth, roughly put together, 
and one wooden house for the governor. The governor is the local magis¬ 
trate. There are two inspectors for Greenland, one for the northern and 
one for the southern district; the one for the northern at Godhaven, 
Disco, and the other at Julienshaab. We called into Tessiusak with the 
intention to send a boat over to Proven to get Hans and procure more 
skins and dogs. That is south of Tessiusak about twenty-five miles. Tessi¬ 
usak is noton the admiralty chart. Captain Hall procured anumberofdogs 


31 


at Tessiusak; also skins and ready-made skin clotiling. A boat was sent 
off, under the command of the mate, H. C. Chester, with an order from the 
governor at Upernavik, which told the governor at Proven if possible to 
let Hans come with the expedition. The boat returned with Hans and 
family, his wife and three children. We started from Tessiusak on the24th 
of August, or the 2Gth, I am not quite certain. We crossed Melville Bay 
in foggy, misty weather at the commencement; but it soon cleared up, and 
the vessel was enabled to bring Cape York in sight on the second morning. 
Leaving Cape York on the starboard bow, we proceeded on, with the 
intention to land at Cape Dudley Digges, which the orders required, and 
deposit a record there. But on passing there Captain Hall found too 
much ice accumulated, so that he could not land. We proceeded 
farther on, between Wolstenholm Island and Cape Athol, and went 
close by the coast, within about five miles of Cape Parry. From Cape 
Parry we steered farther west, so as to get clear of the sliore-ice and 
land-ice, and then started our course due north again until we came to 
Cape Alexander. From Cape Alexander we ran up along the east coast, 
and proceeded by Port Foulke, Kane’s winter quarters, and then struck 
right across Smith’s Land, passing by Henry Island and Bache Island, 
and reached nearest the west coast, about ten miles from Cape Hawks. 
From that point the Polaris steered more to the eastward, and ran along 
the coast, passing by Cape Napoleon, Point Joy, Cape Hayes, until 
finally we came very close to Cape Frazer. At Cape Frazer there is a 
small inlet. Captain Hall had the vessel stopped, and, with Captain 
Tyson, he proceeded in a boat into this small inlet, to see whether it 
would be a suitable place for a depot of provisions and coal, and to 
see whether, perhaps, it would be suitable for a winter harbor. They 
returned, and he said then the water was too shallow for a winter har¬ 
bor, and no depot was made there, and no record was put there. We 
then went along the coast, passing by Cape Barrow. I forgot to say 
that at Cape Hawks we met a large pack, and had to steer around it to 
the south, and came around to the westward of it. We also encountered 
ice at Fitz Clarence Bock. There we met the first ice, but pushed 
right through. It was only a small patch of ice. After we passed by 
Cape Frazer there was more or less ice always seen; but there was 
no difficulty in getting through it. In this way we kept along the 
coast. This coast, (referring to the chart,) is entirely different from 
what is here laid down on Dr. Hayes’s map. In the first place, Cape 
Constitution is farther south, in about 80° 27'. The channel nar¬ 
rows very much at Cape Constitution. Besides these two islands, which 
are right opposite to Cape Constitution, there is another island nearer 
the west coast. The channel there is very narrow, perhaps only four¬ 
teen or fifteen miles wide. Between this and the westernmost island 
and the west coast is where we pushed through in going up with the 
Polaris. There was a small stream of water there. They tried to push 
through in several places, until finally they found this one place. The 
channel being very narrow, the ice had all accumulated there. Carl 
Bitter Bay is a great deal farther south than it is put down here. The 
coast-line all along here is entirely different from what is laid down. I 
could only say that Cape Union and Cape Lieber are correct. The 
entire coast line comes farther south; there is a part of it left out alto¬ 
gether on this map. After we passed Cape Constitution the course of 
the vessel was turned to the eastward, and observations were made by 
all that were able to do so, in latitude 81° 24'. At 9 o’clock in the 
morning the observations were made for longitude, and at 12 o’clock, 
noon, for latitude. The longitude was found to be 64° 35', if I recollect 


32 


right. From Cape Constitution it widens out a great deal in both 
directions; but especially to the eastward, where it forms a large bay, 
which was named by Captain Hall Polaris Bay. That was what was 
supposed to be a sea—Kane’s Open Polar Sea. I cau understand why 
Morton did not see to the east side; because these islands are right in 
front of Cape Constitution, arid he did not go on top of the cape. He 
staid below on the ice, and in that position the two islands will entirely 
cover the east coast, so that he could not see that at all. So what has 
been called Kane’s Open Polar Sea was found to be a sound of about the 
same formation as Smith’s Sound, only the glacier in the background, 
is not so large. The east side of this was named Polaris Bay. From 
the point where the observations had been made the Polaris fol¬ 
lowed the east coast until she came to another narrows, the southern 
cape of which is called Cape Lupton, in latitude 81° 44/, after Major 
Lupton, of this city, Captain Hall’s friend. There a new channel com¬ 
mences, which was named by Captain Hall Robeson’s Channel, after the 
Secretary of the Navy. That channel is about twenty-five miles wide at 
the beginning. Entering this channel, the Polaris followed a northerly 
course until she encountered ice in latitude 82° 1G'. The channel was 
not entirely clear before we encountered the ice, but it was so that the 
ship could steam through without difficulty. There the Polaris was 
fastened to the floe, and a record was made out of the proceedings of 
the expedition, inclosed in a copper cylinder, and thrown overboard. 
That was the first of the copper cylinders thrown over, and which con¬ 
tained a record up to that time. I have seen the record, which gave 
the proceedings of the expedition to that date, the latitude and longi¬ 
tude we were in at the time, and, besides it said there was a fair pros¬ 
pect of going farther. Before the observations were made Captain Hall 
thought we were a great deal higher than we actually were; bethought 
we were in about latitude 84°; but the observations proved that it 
was not so. At this point, where we met the ice in Robeson’s Channel, 
no observations were taken. Captain Hall ordered me to make up the 
dead-reckoning from the log. The latitude and longitude, which were 
put on the record, was such as was found from the dead-reckoning, 
starting from the last observation, 81° 24'. That is, only those portions 
of the log, referring from 12 o’clock, noon, that day, until we reached 
latitude 82° 16', were used. We had been steaming from noon until the 
time when we met the ice ; I am not certain about the hour. We were 
fastened to this piece of ice a few hours, and then started eastward, in¬ 
tending to make a harbor and reach the east coast at a small inlet, 
which was afterward named by Captain Hall Repulse Harbor. It is to 
the southward of east of the point where we fastened to the floe. I 
made observations on the shore. The latitude of Repulse Harbor is 
82° 9'. Captain Hall and Captain Tyson ran in therein a boat; but 
they found such a tide that they thought it would not answer for a har¬ 
bor, and came back to the vessel. We then started north, with the in 
tention to try once more whether we could push through the ice with 
the vessel. We went two or three miles, and found we could not. We 
never got as far north as latitude 82° 16' again. When Captain 
Hall found we could not push through the ice, he went to the 
westward, and fastened to another floe, and staid there over night, 
and the next morning returned to Repulse Harbor to examine it 
once more. But he came to the conclusion, the same as before, 
that he could not harbor there during the winter. So he once 
more tried to push farther north through the ice; but when it 
was found that he could not get through, he called a council of the 


33 


officers, asking each officer’s opinion whether to go farther north or 
make a harbor, or what to do. All of the officers were of the opiniou 
to start toward the west coast, to see if they could find a lead to the 
northward, and if they could not make a lead to the northward to make 
a harbor on the west coast. I say all the officers were of the opinion 
except Captain Buddington. Ilis opinion was to go into this Repulse 
Harbor; or, if Captain Hall did not think fit to go into harbor there, 
to make a harbor farther south. And the harbor lie intended to go in 
is about latitude 80° P; it is called a fjord. There is an island right in 
the center of it, and behind this island he intended to harbor. I think 
it may be a strait and not a fjord. Then, as a majority of the officers 
had given an opinion to go westward and try for a lead northwest, Cap¬ 
tain Hall concluded to do so. The Polaris was then started on a west¬ 
erly course, went along slowly, pushing through the ice, perhaps one or 
two knots an hour, losing ground in latitude, till, finally, a fog shut in 
and heavy ice was encountered. The Polaris was then fastened to a 
floe, and soon was closed in by a heavy pack. On this floe she laid for 
four days. During this time she drifted to the southward thirty-six 
miles. The following winter, while in winter quarters, I constructed 
the track of the ship during the voyage. Latitude 81° 38' was one 
point to calculate from, and where w r e fastened to the floe was the other. 
Then going back to where we broke out of the ice, gave me the 
points of the drift, and thus I got the distance. We drifted toward the 
southwest. After the expiration of these four days, the vessel got clear 
of the ice, and steam was got up, and the vessel was started with the 
intention to make harbor without losing any more ground. So the 
vessel was taken on an easterly course, till she arrived in latitude 81° 
38', longitude 61° 4P, on the 4th of September, I think. This is part of 
Polaris Bay, and is a smaller inlet in this bay, and was named by Cap¬ 
tain Hall “ Thank God Harbor.” It is on the east coast. When we 
arrived there, Captain Hall thought of making winter quarters there. 
u Thank God Harbor” is not a very deep inlet; it is only a very 
shallow bight, and not very well protected. The principal protection 
we had was a large iceberg, which had a name given it by Captain 
Hall. He called it Providence Iceberg. This was the principal protec¬ 
tion against the ice. Captain Hall proceeded to get out the provisions, 
and to establish a depot ashore at the same place. An observatory 
was erected there, and very soon after Captain Hall started on his 
sledge journey. I had plenty of opportunities for verifying the position, 
observations being made during the whole winter. It is exact to the 
minute. The object of Captain Hall’s journey was to find whether an 
overland route would be practicable, so as to be ready in the spring to 
start on such a route. He staid away two weeks, in company with 
the mate, H. C. Chester, and Joe. Captain Hall went to a bay farther 
north, which he named Newman’s Bay—a very deep bay. They killed 
one musk-ox. The entrance to Newman’s Bay is about eight or nine 
miles wide ; it is farther north than Polaris Bay, and enters into Robe¬ 
son Channel. The southern cape of the bay is in latitude 81° 55', and 
the northern one in 82° 2'. We had no means of determining the 
highest point that the Polaris reached except by dead reckoning. 
The highest point where I took observations was some time afterward, 
when I was at Newman’s Bay, and went on the shore to Repulse Har¬ 
bor. The highest point on land was here in latitute 82° 9'. It was as 
correct as I could get it. The position I was on was a hill 1,700 feet 
high. Of course the dip was about fortv-five minutes. Besides 
3 P 


34 

I had no artificial horizon except a kind of mixture of ice horizon and 
sea horizon. 

Question. What was the latitude of the observation the day you took 
it at noon—the point from which you started your dead reckoning ? 

Answer. 81° 24/. 

Question. Then you ran forty-two miles north to get to 82° 1G'; how 
long were you in doing it? 

Answer. I cannot be precise about the time when we stopped; I am 
not at all certain about the hour. That we were farther north than 
Newman’s Bay, in the ship, is proved by the fact that we saw that bay 
when we passed up, going farther north. Newman’s Bay was south and 
east of us when we were at our highest point in the Polaris. The north¬ 
ern cape of Newman’s Bay is in 82° 2'; Repulse Harbor is 82° 9 7 . We 
went into that twice; and at the same place I have made actual observ¬ 
ations myself. The highest observation that I made was at Kepulse 
Harbor itself; it is steep on both sides, and I made my observation on 
the north side; that is the highest actual observation I made, and that 
was southeast of the highest point made by the ship; I know that by 
the log, or the dead reckoning. 

Question. When you were up at that highest point, you know that 
you passed Repulse Harbor ? 

Answer. By the dead reckoning we knew what course we steered 
from the highest point to get to Kepulse Bay, and that was to the 
southward and eastward. There could be no mistake about it, for 
there was a northern current; the current and the sweep carried us 
southward, and there could be no mistake in the reckoning on account 
of current. When Captain Hall returned to the ship after his sledge 
journey, he complained about sickness in the bowels, and went to bed. 
He complained as soon as he came home. The next day he was found 
paralyzed on the left side; he remained in this state for three days; 
then he got the use of his limbs again, and got a little better. Soon 
afterward he became delirious, and remaiued so, more or less, till he 
died ; he died two weeks after his return. The physician on board stated 
that it was a case of apoplexy. As I understand, it was apoplexy 
from the first; he was paralyzed three days, I know, from actual ob¬ 
servation. He died, and was buried on the shore southeast of the an¬ 
chorage of the ship about half a mile, and a small flag was set up to mark 
the place of interment. At the time nothing else could be put up. The 
ground was frozen solid, and it was with great difficulty they could dig 
into the ground; so the place was only marked with a small flag at the 
time, with the intention to replace it by a board as soon as the summer 
set in. That was done afterwards. . 

Question. How soon did you see Captain Hall after he returned from 
his sledge journey ? 

Answer. The shore there is very low, and we could see from the ob¬ 
servatory to the ship, and could see any person coming from the ship to 
the observatory, or going to the ship. We saw Captain Hall and party 
returning, and I met him half way between the observatory and the 
ship. I had some conversation with him. I do not know whether any¬ 
body was with him then. I believe Captain Tyson, but I am not certain. 
Somebody was with him, but I could not say who it was. The conver¬ 
sation was such as is usual. I asked him how he felt, and I was very 
happy to see him back. He told me at the time that he felt very 
well. Soon afterward I came back to the ship, and I found Mr. 
Morton busy in getting Captain Hall to bed. He had already com¬ 
plained about being sick, and while I was there he went to bed. I then 


35 


returned to the observatory again. We had regular watches then, and 
my watch commenced. I only heard he was sick at his bowels when I 
came on board. Every time I came on board ship I saw him, because 
I lived in the same cabin. Dr. Bessels and the engineer, Schumann, and 
the steward and cook slept there also. I had only one conversation 
with Captain Hall while he was sick. That was after he became deli¬ 
rious. During the time that lie was delirious, he had the idea that some¬ 
body intended to murder him, and he accused in his delirious talk one 
person after another of having such intention. I was very busy most 
of the time, because Dr. Bessels had to stay on board and attend to 
Captain Hall, and so I had the whole labor at the observatory on my¬ 
self. Mr. Bryan only attended to the astronomical observations. Cap¬ 
tain Hall called me to his bedside, and said that he knew that some 
persons on board the ship intended to kill him, and he wanted me to 
stand by his side. He did not mention any name at that time, but at 
different times he mentioned most of the persons on board. He was 
insensible the first three days he was sick, which I think was caused by 
paralysis, and he did not speak for the last twenty-four hours either be¬ 
fore he died, as I understood. The only conversation I ever had with 
him after he was sick was what I have stated. He did not mention any 
names then. 

Question. Did you at any time hear him accuse anybody of an inten¬ 
tion to murder him ? 

Answer. Yes, sir. When I was about the cabin I could hear him. 
Some person might be attending to him, sitting by his side, and he 
would be talking very pleasantly, and all of a sudden he would say: 
“What is this; what is this blue smoke; and what is that there, all 
blue V 7 He thought it was poisonous vapors, he said. 

Question. Did you ever hear him accuse anybody to other people ? 
When one was sitting by him would he speak of other people? 

Answer. Yes, sir. He would accuse other people, and ask the pro¬ 
tection of the man sitting by his side. He accused Mr. Chester and 
Captain Buddington—those were the two principal ones—and Dr. Bes¬ 
sels. 

Question. Then, when these persons were sitting by him, did he ask 
them to protect him ? 

Answer. Yes, sir. I was under the impression that he accused most 
everybody, but those are the only ones whom I recall. 

Question. When talking with Chester, for instance, would he accuse 
anybody else? 

Answer. Yes, sir; he would accuse Captain Buddington. 

Question. Did you hear him talk to Dr. Bessels? 

Answer. Yes, sir. 

Question. When talking to him, did you hear him accuse anybody 
else, and ask the doctor to stand by him ? 

Answer. I do not remember that I heard him appeal to the doctor to 
stand by him. He seemed to accuse anybody. 

Question. Was he under regular treatment ? 

Answer. Yes, sir. 

Question. Do you know what remedies were given him ? 

Answer. He gave him a great many; hypodermic injections of qui¬ 
nine, I believe, for one. For three days he partially recovered. 

Question. Who were his attendants? 

Answer. Dr. Bessels staid with him most always, and then he had 
a man by the name of Mauch, who acted as private secretary to Captain 
Hall. He was with him most always. When he was so delirious that 


36 


he thought some person had the intention to murder him, he had 
Mauch to taste everything that came into the cabin—medicine and 
food, even the water he drank. 

Question. When he got better did he recover his senses ? 

Answer. No, sir, not fully; but partially. 

Question. Did he get up about the cabin and write ? 

Answer. He never wrote that I know; he had Mauch read to him. 

Question. Did he dictate to Mauch to write ? 

Answer. No, sir; he did not do any work; I think he had Mauch 
read to him, and sometimes he would start to take an interest in some 
business matter, and would give it up again before he got through. 
During the time that he was partially recovered, he had the intention to 
give up the command of the vessel to Captain Buddingtou. That is, he 
called him into the cabin, and told him he would give up the command 
to him; that he would have the papers made out immediately; but he 
did not do it. I heard Captain Hall say this. 

Question. Was he taken suddenly sick again after getting better? 

Answer. He began to become more delirious, and to show the desire 
of staying in the bed. He remained in this state until he died. That 
is, I was told that for the twenty-four hours before he died he did not speak 
a word to anybody. He very often had Joe and Hannah called to his 
bedside to attend to him. At times he would labor under the impres¬ 
sion that all the people on board the vessel intended to murder him, and 
he would call for Joe and Hannah, and have them sit by him. When 
he got tired of them he would have somebody else. I think he was 
better about three days. I was in the observatory when he died. He 
died in the night. It was on the 8th of November, 1871. It was dark 
continually then, and only twilight at noon. Services were read by 
Mr. Bryan, who acted as chaplain. After Captain Hall died, Captain 
Buddingtou took charge of the vessel. The intention then was that 
the instructions should be carried out; those directed that Captain Bud- 
dington should take charge of the vessel. 

Question. What was done with Captain HalPs papers ? 

Answer. They were taken charge of by Captain Buddingtou. There 
was no public examination of them. I have seen the outside of the 
papers many times, and have seen Captain Buddingtou looking at them. 
He had them in a large tin box. As I understand, there are a few pri¬ 
vate papers in the possession of Joe and Hannah at present, but all the’ 
official papers were in this large tin box. He had a writing-desk, pri¬ 
vate papers therein, and Joe and Hannah, when they were started out 
on the ice, we found had possession of the writing-desk of Captain Hall. 
There was no official action nor public examination of Captain HalPs 
papers, but they went into Captain Buddington’s possession. I have 
never read them. I wrote the first six or seven pages of Captain HalPs 
journal. That is all I know about it. That part consisted of the voyage of 
the ship. After Captain Buddingtou went into command, the vessel was 
hauled up, and we commenced a regular series of observations on shore, 
until, on the 22d or 24th of November, the ship broke out in a heavy 
northeast gale, and drifted in the darkness on to Providence Iceberg. 
If that had not been in the way, the ship would probably have drifted 
during the winter; but it was brought up on the iceberg. Then, in the 
darkness and heavy snow-storm, the vessel was fastened to the iceberg, 
and it remained there during the winter. The iceberg was to the south¬ 
west of the vessel. The prevailing winds were from the northeast. In 
the spring the first journeys were made by the natives out on the plain 
to the southeast of the observatory. There is a large plain, leading 


37 


southeast and northwest. They went out to procure fresh meat, and 
they were very successful. They went to Newman’s Bay, and across 
on the other side they found a great many musk-oxen, and they killed 
as many as they could carry and bring back to the ship. Newman’s 
Bay opens north of Thank God Harbor, but stretches to the southeast. 
Then there was an expedition went to the southwest. At the southern 
end of Polaris Bay there is a fiord, which we called at the time 
the “ southern fiord.” Dr. Bessels, and Mr. Bryan, and Joe started 
on an expedition to this fiord, and from there they started across 
toward the projecting cape of the channel, and which was then 
supposed to be Gape Constitution; but it afterward proved not 
to be so, but to be a point not known before. Cape Constitution was 
found to be a great deal farther south. They returned without 
finding Cape Constitution, not going so far. The fiord runs to the 
southeast; latitude 81° 11/ is the eastern limit of it. I)r. Bessels, 
Bryan, and Joe went down and crossed the fiord, which is about twenty- 
two miles wide; and then they went along the coast about forty miles 
without reaching Cape Constitution. They saw the island that lies off 
that cape. The next journey was made with the double intention of 
getting fresh meat, and of traveling on land the other side of Newman’s 
Bay. I went in charge of one sledge, and Captain Tyson in charge of 
the other. I was very busy in making surveys up the coast; I wanted 
to survey the west of Newman’s Bay, and to make surveys in the 
interior, and, as long as provisions would last, to go as far as I could. I 
then went out to the mouth of Newman’s Bay, made the surveys of 
Newman’s Bay and the surveys of the west coast; and went to the 
glacier at the end of Newman’s Bay, and made surveys there. I then 
started across Newman’s Bay, and made surveys in the interior; but 
kept on traveling to the northeast until want of provisions compelled 
us to return. Captain Tyson was with me w T hen we went into the in¬ 
terior. I made calculations of the farthest point north; I did not 
get any farther than 82° 9'. That was the highest point I reached. 
That was in May, 1872. After I returned from this sledge journey I 
remained at Thank God Harbor until the first part of June, when two 
boats were started to the northward, for the purpose of pushing as far 
north as possible. One boat was under the command of the mate, 
H. C. Chester, and I accompanied him ; and the other boat was under 
the command of Captain Tyson, and Dr. Bessels accompanied him. 
The boats were carried on sleds to Cape Lupton, the southern cape of 
Robeson Channel, on the ice. It was the intention to start from 
there by water. As soon as our boat got there, Mr. Chester wished to 
start right off; and taking advantage of a lead, and pushing over the 
ice, carrying the boat on the keel, we proceeded about three or four 
miles, and encamped for the night on a small piece of ice, which 
appeared to me to be very unsafe, as it was right against an iceberg, 
and very thin. A watch was set out, and we went to sleep. In the 
morning Mr. Chester and myself were sleeping together between two 
skius, and w ere called out by the watch, and told that the iceberg along¬ 
side of us had commenced to move, and that the piece we were on was 
also moving. Before we could look around much, the piece of ice that 
the boat was on broke in two pieces, with the boat on one piece and the 
anchorage on the other. The crew was with the boat, and Mr. Chester 
and myself were on the other piece, where the auchorage was. The an¬ 
chorage was loosened right off; that is, the rope was cut, and the boat, 
with the crew, drifted away from us. The iceberg came, and pressed upon 
the piece of ice on which the boat was, and piled up the ice against it, and 


38 


the boat was in danger of being crushed. The ice came up against the 
I>iece that Mr. Chester and I were on, and rose up and threatened to fall 
on us, but did not. But where the boat was, a large piece of ice was 
erected right straight up, and came down on the boat and crushed it. 
The crew jumped up on the piece and saved themselves. And then Mr. 
Chester and myself got on to the shore-ice and saved ourselves. We 
saved what we"could of the clothing, instruments, and provisions that 
were on the boat, and then returned to the ship. We found Captain 
Tyson at Cape Lupton; he had not started from there. Mr. Chester 
procured another boat, the canvas boat, and started with this new En¬ 
glish canvas boat a few days afterward. We sledded the canvas boat 
up to Cape Lupton, and waited there for a chance for a lead. Captain 
Tyson had then gone when we reached there. We soon got a lead, but 
only got four or five miles farther north at the time, and had to lie 
up to the shore-ice a number of times; and finally got on a drifting 
floe, and were in danger of being drifted off on it, without being- 
able to reach the shore. The small ice closed in around the floe, 
but finally the “pash” ice loosened, and we got the canvas boat into 
the water, and in one day rowed up to Newman’s Baj’, distant about 
twenty miles. There, at Newman’s Bay, the ice was found too compact 
for any boat to push through. But we found Captain Tyson there on 
the bay ice. Several starts were made on the bay ice to get farther 
north ; but we never got any farther than about one or two miles. We 
were in Newman’s Bay over a month, when Captain Buddington sent 
orders to us to return. The boats were then dragged ashore on their 
keels and left there. The crew and men returned overland to the west¬ 
ward. The ice had closed in behind us. We got back some time in July. 
Some of our crew had been to the ship for provisions, and when they 
returned they told us that she broke out some time in June, and was in 
a leaky condition, and that was the reason why Captain Buddington 
sent orders for the two boats to return. It was two of Mr. Chester’s 
boat’s crew who went to the ship to get more provisions; and when 
they returned with the provisions, they brought a written order to 
return ; and they told us the ship was in a leaky condition. The leak 
was in the stem of the vessel, which had been strained, as the ship had 
been on the foot of the iceberg, and hanging over to one side. That 
strained the stem and started the skin of the bows on both sides. 
When we returned they were pumping the ship by steam; but after¬ 
ward it was found she could be kept free by a small hand-pump, one of 
those that they cleaned the deck with. They had to keep the hand- 
pump going continually to keep her free; but there was a large ship- 
pump on board. We pumped with the ship’s pump after the steam- 
pump had been stopped; and, if I recollect right, it was five minutes 
out of the hour that we had to pump. While we were at Newman’s 
Bay Captain Buddington made several trials to get up there with the 
ship, but he never succeeded. I suppose this was with the intention of 
getting farther north if he could. 

Question. Do you suppose that, if the way had been open, he would 
have tried to reach a higher latitude ? 

Answer. Yes, sir; if there had been no ice he would have gone. 

Question. Did lie seem interested in trying to go northward after 
Captain Hall’s death ? 

Answer. He seemed to be changeable; sometimes very much inter¬ 
ested in going north, and sometimes he would not be. Captain Bud¬ 
dington told us it was bis intention to return on the first opportunity, 
as soon as he got a lead of water. This he got on the 12th of August, 


39 


and started, and kept on steaming till be got to the small island on the 
west coast, opposite Cape Constitution. There he encountered ice, fas¬ 
tened to the ice, and drifted for a night, and then steamed again a short 
time. He started right out to the westward of Polaris Bay, and passed 
what we called the southern fiord, and went into Kennedy Channel. It 
was his intention at the time to make the west shore as soon as possible, 
so as to proceed on the west shore, because he thought that the only 
chance of finding open water would be on the westside. He got several 
chances to steam after he fastened to the floe; until finally we had to 
fasten to a floe in latitude 80° 1'. 

Question. Did you ever know of Captain Buddiugton’s being drunk 
on board ship f 

Answer. Yes, sir ; he was drunk most always while we were goiugto 
the southward. I do not remember whether he was drunk when we got 
beset with this last floe. There was only alcohol on board, and he 
would brew beverages out of the alcohol; it was iu the hold, and 
he had free access to it. I do not know what he made of it; all that I 
know is that he used this alcohol; that is, I heard of it. It was very 
common with him, whenever there was any danger, that he would like 
to drink. 

Question. Did anybody else on board the ship have liquor, that you 
know of? 

Answer. I do not know of anybody else being drunk. 

We kept on drifting with the ice until we passed Rensselaer Harbor, 
opposite Hayes’s winter-quarters, until one evening, on the 15th of Oc¬ 
tober, 1872, in a heavy south and southeast gale, and a snow-storm and 
snow-drift, the ice parted, and two icebergs entered into the crack, 
which passed right along toward the ship, pushing that part of the floe 
to which the ship was attached toward the shore, and the ship was with it. 
When the two icebergs had passed through the crack, the ice closed in 
again, and pressed heavily against the side of the vessel; and the press¬ 
ure was so great that the ship was raised up about six feet. The tim¬ 
bers and skin were cracking, and the orders were given to heave the 
provisions and clothing overboard on to the ice ; they had been kept on 
deck for that purpose. Coal was also prepared in sacks and kept on 
deck for the purpose. All was thrown overboard in wild con¬ 
fusion. This was in the night-time, with snow-storm and heavy gale. 
Part of the crew had to go out and collect the coal, provisions, and 
clothing, and carry it up farther on to the ice, so as to save it in case 
the ice should break up; but before the collection could be made the 
ice all broke up, and when the ship was relieved the broken pieces 
drifted off, and the stern-line parted, and the bow line slipped off the 
anchor, so that the ship, and the piece on which the provisions were, 
drifted off, and the men who were on the ice had to stay there, and had 
only time to pull the two boats, which were on the ice, over the crack, 
so as to get them together with the men and the crew. The ship disap¬ 
peared ; it was very dark, and the snow drifted, so that one could not 
see more than ten or twenty yards. All we found preserved was eleven 
boxes of bread, about four hundred or five hundred pounds of pemmicau, 
and some preserved meats, (several dozen cans,) and fourteen hams, I 
believe. I was on a broken piece of ice, with two other men, and the 
small scow was on that piece. We just had time to pick up the things 
and get into the scow, and we only had a kaiak besides, and when we 
got over the scow was full of water. Then they started the scow back 
for some other men on the same piece. When they got over to them 
the scow was so full of water that she sunk, and they could not bail her 


40 


out, and they had to send one of the boats to get the men. It was all 
in the darkness, but finally they succeeded in getting all together. 
There was nobody lost three. 

Question. How do you know; did you know who were on the ice? 

Answer. Everybody known to be on the ice was there; besides, if we 
could not see them, they could make themselves heard. All my papers 
were in a box which was thrown out on the ice, and so were Mr. 
Bryan’s; and they were lost, going off on some broken pieces. They 
may have been picked up afterward by the Polaris; we have not got 
them. Hr. Bessels kept his papers on board, so that they will be on 
board when she returns. I was on board about five minutes before the 
ice broke. Then I saw Captain Hall’s papers in the cabin ; so that they 
are, very likely, on board. I did not see the journal. The tin box was 
standing on the table and the papers were lying alongside of it, 

Question. What was the condition.of the ship when she went off ? 

Answer. I had labored under the impression that she was sinking. I 
met Captain Buddington several times while they were heaving the 
stuff out, and from all that I could learn from him, I understood that she 
was in a very bad condition, and might be expected to sink. He was 
sober then. After I got on the ice I was told by other persons, for in¬ 
stance, by Captain Tyson and the steward, that they found, before they 
went on the ice, that the ship was not making any more water than be¬ 
fore. The ice kept breaking up on the edge of the floe, and we had to 
remove our provisions a number of times, until finally, at 12 o’clock, 
midnight, we were perfectly exhausted, and we lay down and fell asleep 
there. Captain Tyson was the senior officer left on the ice. Next morn¬ 
ing we found we were close to the shore; that the floe brought up near 
the shore. There were two islands right close by ; one Northumberland 
and the other McGary’s Island. I knew it, because I had been making 
observations every day or night, there being twilight only. I cannot 
tell how late the observations were made up to, but it was a day or two 
before we broke up. We had sighted Northumberland Island the day 
before. Then there was a leaTl of water, which seemed to lead right in 
to the shore the next morning, and Captain Tyson concluded to start 
two boats in toward the island. We got the boats out and went into 
the lead, and were closed in by the ice, so that we could not reach the 
shore. We then pulled up on the ice, and while we were there, on the 
ice, the ship was seen coming down under steam and sail toward the 
islands. We lost her out of sight behind this island. I saw her com¬ 
ing down and saw her disappear behind the island. They say shew T ent 
into harbor between Northumberland Island and the shore. She must 
have come within about four or five miles of us, because we could see 
every sail. She had all sails on; we could see the hull. She was end 
on to us, coming toward us apparently. 

Question. Hid she look as if there were anything special the matter 
with her ? 

Answer. No, sir. I do not think she could have been in any worse condi¬ 
tion, because, when we got away from the ship, the engine and pipes and 
wells were frozen up solid, so that it would take them at least ten or 
twelve hours to get the engine going. So, if she had been in a much 
worse condition, they could not have kept her up. They could not have 
used anything but hand-pumps until they could get the steam, and they 
could not get that in less than ten or twelve hours. I could not see 
anybody on board. The ice between us and her was principally small ice. 
She was in clear water, not in any ice at all. The boat-mast was erected, 
and a rubber blanket fastened to it, with the black side toward the ship. 


41 


Question. Could your two boats be seen ? 

Answer. 1 think so. Afterward I had an opportunity to see the men 
and one boat a distance of about half a mile. I thought at the time it 
was a very large object to see; it is very distinguishable on the ice. 

Question. As you stood on the ice was the sky and land behind you 
or the ice? 

Answer. Ice. We expected them to come, and did not give up the 
hope until we saw that we were drifting off, and they did not come yet. 
We did not see any hinderance whatever. I at the time thought there 
must be something the matter with the ship, or they would have come. 
The ice between us and the shore was the small “pash” ice, that a vessel 
can very easily steam through; a boat could not get through it—it would 
be stove in. I have seen the Tigress going through worse ice after we 
got on board of her. We had been in worse ice in the Polaris. Captain 
Buddington had the trial of going through much worse ice once, but did 
not succeed very well. I did not see the ship after she went into the har¬ 
bor. The reason I did not see her was that I did not have any glass at 
hand, and I could not see her with the naked eye; it was getting very 
dark. That was the next day after we separated, in the afternoon. 
After I was told she had gone into harbor, Captain Tyson started with 
one boat and crew, carrying her on the keel, with the intention of try¬ 
ing to get across the floe and get ashore. He got across the floe, and got 
the boat into the water, and proceeded toward shore, when the ice closed 
in, and the boat returned to the floe. This closing in of the ice was 
caused by a northerly gale setting in, and the drift is off-shore very fast 
in such a gale. The next morning we found ourselves in the middle of 
the strait, and without the piece of ice that the other boat was on. 
So we lost the canvas tent and some six bags of bread. We had strong 
winds, sometimes southerly and sometimes northerly, principally the 
latter, and during that time we drifted to a point between Northumber¬ 
land Island and Wolstenholm Island. We had the latter in sight two 
or three days part of the time. From Wolstenholm Island we were 
carried right off" to the westward until we got to the middle of the strait, 
and then we drifted down until we got opposite Cape York. We then 
drifted to the west, and got in sight of the southern portion of Lancaster 
Sound. We then went to the eastward again, so that we had no land 
in sight whatever, drifting along, perhaps in the middle of the strait, 
until, in the early part of January, we reached Cape Walsingham. I do 
not remember the time; I have a record of that. I kept a record on the 
ice. Cape Walsingham is in latitude 65° 45', about 12° from where we 
left the ship. We then lost sight of land again, and did not see land 
any more until we sighted some part of the Labrador coast in March ; 
my record will show. While off near Dalrymple Island we sighted the 
floe that the canvas tent and the boat were on. We started across the 
ice and got the boat, and got the bread in the canvas tent, and carried 
them across to our encampment. Wq started several times for the can¬ 
vas tent, and got the timber, and carried that across also. Afterward 
we started back to the same piece where we got the tent, with the in¬ 
tention to make land; but when we got on to the piece the night set in, 
and in the morning we found the water between us and the old floe, but 
we got back to it. The floe we were on, before it was broken up, might 
have been five miles in circumference. We were off from it for a time, 
and then got back to it, with both boats aud all the provisions. The 
surface of the floe was hillocks and fresh-water lakes. If the Polaris 
had not broken away from the floe, she would most likely have floated 
as we did, but she would have had an opportunity to leave the floe, and 


42 


steam. I think that even on the following day, after we got on the ice, 
there was a great lead of water to the southward, and if the Polaris had 
been there at the time, she might, perhaps, have rounded Cape York and 
got down to Tessiusak. 

Question. Will she be likely to have wintered where you saw her 
last ? 

Answer. Yes, sir, most decidedly. There is a settlement of Esqui¬ 
maux at Netlick, about twenty miles farther south, on the same sound. 
They could go over to the village, and, undoubtedly, the Esquimaux 
would have continual communication with them. When we found our¬ 
selves on a small portion of the floe, the first thing was to make an 
estimate of the provisions and what could be used daily, in order to 
live through the winter. We saw that we could not get from the ice, 
and even if we got ashore we must live on the provisions we had on 
hand for the winter-months. It was found that eleven or twelve ounces 
per man would keep us five months, provided we did not get anything 
else; and it did last that. But at times we had to come to a smaller 
allowance—to nine ounces and seven ounces. That was before we got 
back on to the big floe. The next thing was to erect some snow-huts 
on this little floe. We erected one snow-hut for Hans’s family, and one 
for Joe’s family, and one for us; and there was an addition made 
afterward to the large one, where Captain Tyson and myself slept. 
That was on the small floe. While on this floe we sighted the boat and 
the canvas tent, and got them back to this piece, and afterward we 
started back for the larger piece, which was jammed in close by Dal- 
rymple Island. We had not anything to make a station on the large 
ice, and tried to reach shore, but did not reach it, because the ice drifted 
out and left water between it and the shore, and also between it and 
the small piece of ice. On this large piece we staid till close on to 
the end of March. We erected snow-houses, one for the crew, one for 
Joe’s family, one for Hans’s family, and another was afterward erected 
for the crew, and the one first erected for them was used for a store¬ 
room. We staid on this piece until the close of March. At the com¬ 
mencement Captain Tyson issued the provisions himself, by measuring 
the bread in his hand, and the pemmican also. At first, also, we got a 
few seals and had seal-meat and a few crumbs of bread. As soon as we 
had the snow-huts erected I made a scale. I had a very fine three- 
cornered rule and a balance. I made the weights. Some shot that 
I had I made weights of, pounds and half-pounds, and down to two 
ounces. The provisions could be weighed out very accurately then. 
Soon after we got on the large piece again Captain Tyson was taken 
sick for a few days, and during that time some of the men took it in 
hand aud issued provisions; and they always did it afterward, accord¬ 
ing to these weights. During the winter we succeeded in getting from 
five to eight seals a month on an average. Most of them were shot by 
Joe; some by Hans. At the commencement of March we succeeded 
in getting water-birds similar to ducks, only smaller. We got numbers 
of them for two or three days. We got a bear in the month of March ; 
and during that month we got a great number of seals, so that we had 
enough meat in store to keep us for months. We had some provisions 
laid out on the ice, and the bear smelled them, and walked right up to 
the huts, so we killed him. During the month of March the ice broke 
up, and this large piece of ice that we were on broke up also, so that we 
were reduced to a very small piece, only about forty yards in diameter; 
and this still grew smaller by being washed out. So, finally, on the 
1st of April, it was found necessary to start away from the piece, and pro- 


43 


ceed southerly, and especially westerly, so as to find any pack-ice, and keep 
from going to sea. We had but one boat, one having been burned up in 
the winter. The small allowance of food we had was warmed up, and the 
boat had been used for the purpose. From the 1st of April until the 30th 
we were continually on the move. Whenever an opportunity offered 
itself to take to the water, we did so, and tried to get farther to the 
southward and westward. When we started from the piece that we 
had wintered on, we had to leave all the meat. All we took was what 
we had left of the provisions taken from the ship, perhaps 100 pounds 
of bread and 45 pounds of pemmican. As long as we had water close 
by us, and while on the move, we could always get seals, and there was 
no fear of starvation. But about the middle of April, while on a piece 
of ice, we got beset with pasli-ice, and had to stay there sixteen days, 
living on this bread and pemmican, and we were so much reduced that 
we were on the point of being out of food altogether, when we shot 
another bear. He was drifting over the pash-ice, which is much like 
suow in the water, but very deep and stout, with small pieces inter¬ 
mixed, so that you can jump from one piece to another. The bear was 
coming toward our piece of ice, and Joe had just gone out on a hum¬ 
mock to look out. He saw the bear, and we all lay down, so as not to 
be seen, and Joe and Hans went out behind a hummock, and tired into 
him and killed him. We all went out and fastened a line to him and 
got him safe on to our piece, and cut him up and stowed the meat away 
in bags. It was issued out at so much a man. This last bear we had 
was very tender; the first was tough. Musk-ox meat is very tough. A 
few days afterward the pash-ice opened, and we found another oppor¬ 
tunity to get into the water and go to the westward. We kept on so 
for several days. By that time we had got so far south that the ice 
w T hich we could pull up on was greatly wasted, and hardly fit for any 
person to stay on, and we were in continual danger of being washed 
off, if we tried to stay on it. Before we got into this pash ice the boat 
got separated from the men one time. The ice was already not very 
safe, and we consequently had to keep watch and watch, half going to sleep 
and the other half watching. We had a small canvas tent and a boat; and 
about midnight, and during the watch that I was on, the piece of ice 
broke right between us and the boat. The general outcry was to stand 
by the boat. I did not see anybody else with me; I was alone. They 
had all staid by the canvas tent. They sung out to me to set the kyak 
adrift, which they thought might perhaps drift toward them, and en¬ 
able one of the natives to come over to me and help get the boat. I 
set the kyak adrift; but it went in an opposite direction. I tried to 
push off the boat, and got it over the edge of the ice, it being heavily 
loaded, when the two natives came out, paddling on a small piece of 
ice with the kiak paddles. I hove out the rope to them, and we three 
of us gave the boat a push into the water. I fell into the water then. 
We tried to get to the other piece where the canvas tent was ; but we 
had not gone very far when the pash closed in upon us. We were fairly 
stuck there ; but there was a small piece of ice close to us. We pulled 
the boat on to it, and staid there all night. In the morning, Captain 
Tyson and two or three men came across to assist us in dragging the 
boat back to the stores and to the canvas tent. It being night, we were 
in danger of being washed off the ice; and, in fact, I was overboard 
three times. It was a small piece of ice, and a very heavy swell in the 
sea. The sea washed large blocks of ice right over the piece that we 
were on, taking the legs from under us, and washing the boat and all 
the men from one side to the other. We staid there and held on to 


44 


the boat from nine o’clock in the evening till seven o’clock in the morn¬ 
ing, when we launched the boat, and got off on to a piece of ice, over 
which the sea did not wash very much. 

I have here the notes, (kept in a note-book,) which consist of the notes 
which I made daring our drift on the ice. I kept them from day to day, 
and every day when I had opportunity, on the ice. They will give a 
more detailed and correct account of what happened while we were on 
the ice than I gave you from memory yesterday. 1 remember one mis¬ 
take that I did make yesterday, which was, that I said that we drifted 
past Cape Walsingham in January, whereas it was really later. The 
night when we were in the storm, when the sea washed over the ice, 
was from the 19th to the 20th of April. In the morning of April 20 
we got the boat off this piece of ice, and arrived safely on another 
small piece, which was not so much subject to the sea washing over it. 
This was in latitude 53° 57'. (The observations were taken by sextant, 
ice-horizon, judging of the declination of the sun. I had no book of 
tables.) During this entire time we were wet through, all of us, and 
remained so until we got relieved by the Tigress, with no means of dry¬ 
ing the clothing. The evening of April 20 a seal was seen on a 
piece of ice. Captain Tyson entered the boat with the crew, went after 
the seal, but did not succeed in getting him. During the entire month 
of April we had been in the habit of sleeping in turns, half of us sleep¬ 
ing in the boat, the other having the watch. April 21 I found the lati¬ 
tude to be 53° 57'. During the night, between the 21st and 22d, we had 
heavy snow, succeeded by heavy rain. On this day, (April 22,) in the 
evening, there were only ten pounds of biscuits left for the subsistence 
of the whole crew. Before the time came that we should take supper, 
a bear was seen, and shot in the way I have described yesterday, and 
by this means we got into possession of new provisions. April 23 and 
April 24 it had been raining. We were still on this piece of ice, 
which was about fifteen yards in diameter. It may have been, perhaps, 
nine or ten feet thick. The original floe, when we first got on to it, may 
have been about twenty or twenty-five feet thick. Where the hillocks 
are the ice is thick. There are sometimes holes in it and cracks, and it 
is washed out in places. While we were on board the ship we had 
very often holes made in the ice to ascertain its thickness. April 25 
we had a heavy northeast gale, and a heavy swell in the sea. 

Question. Could you sight land at all ? 

Answer. We sighted land several times. The ice opened, leaving a lead 
so that we could launch the boat. This was the first time we had one. By 
this ice opening, leaving a lead, this was the first stir we were enabled 
to make, after being inclosed by pash-ice for sixteen days. We hauled 
the boat on the ice again after eight hours’ pull. The direc¬ 
tion of our course was toward the westward. We didn’t see any land 
yet. There was a great drove of seals seen, and some of them shot. 
The next day we made a new start j had to pull up on the ice again after 
an hour’s pull. The keel of the boat was very much injured and had to 
be repaired. Some seals were shot that day also. I found the lead to 
be 53° 30'. Next day it was snowing thickly in the forenoon. A large 
amount of water was rising outside of us, but we could not get to it, 
and consequently could not stir in the boat. The following day we had 
a heavy west gale, the sea washing over the floe : we were compelled to 
stand by the boat, holding on to it so that it would not be washed over. 
At daylight, the 29th, the swell in the sea became so great that we had 
to leave the floe to launch the boat, and proceed by oar to the westward. 
We also tried the sail up, but the gale was so fierce that we came near 


getting smashed on a large hummock, so that we had to abandon the 
sail and take up the oars again. The wind changed to the westward. 
Pulled up the boat at 0 a. m. Launched the boat again at 1 p. in., and 
proceeded by her. Saw a great many seals and shot some of them, 
and on this day we also saw the first steamer. The steamer then 
was to the westward of us, and apparently crossing our course. The 
boat-mast was erected in the boat, and the flag hoisted up on it so as 
to draw the attention of the steamer to our boat. At dusk we lost the 
steamer out of sight. Pulled up on a piece of ice toward night, in the 
usual way, watch by watch. Fires were kept up, and seal-fat fires dur¬ 
ing the night. The piece of ice on which we were stopped last got 
smaller and smaller. These blubber-fires were kept up for the purpose 
of attracting the attention of the steamers if any should be in sight. We 
took a piece of canvas and soaked it in the blubber, and put a piece of 
blubber on the top of the canvas. We had plenty of matches. We pre¬ 
served them in the copper cylinders which were intended for the records. 
They were wax matches. There was not a very large supply on board, 
but they were kept for sledge-journeys and such like occasions. The 
morning of April 29 was very fine and calm, and as soon as daylight 
broke we sighted the steamer again, a very large one, only about five 
miles off. Launched the boat at once and proceeded toward the west¬ 
ward, toward the steamer. After about two hours we encountered a 
close pack, and had to pull up on a piece of ice. We hoisted the flag 
on the mast, which was on a piece of ice about twenty feet high; also 
made another flag-staff by lashing two oars together, and tying to them 
a large blanket; also all the fire-arms we made use of by firing three 
times. Soon after we had fired three times we heard three shots from 
the steamer, taking this for a signal that they had heard us ; another 
shot which was also fired was answered from the steamer. In taking 
these shots for signals from the steamer we must have been mistaken, 
for the steamer kept on cruising, and toward the evening steered to the 
southward and was lost. About dark on the night of April 29 we 
saw the Labrador coast; it appeared to be forty miles distant. Nights 
of April 29 to 30 fires were kept up, in order to attract the attention 
of steamers which might be around; but the fires were almost useless 
from midnight until morning, inasmuch as a heavy fog set in. We had 
been taking our turns also during these nights in keeping watch, and in 
the morning from twelve to five it was the turn of Captain Tyson, 
my self, and the natives to sleep. At daylight we were called up by the 
watch, and were just preparing to jump out of the boat when some 
of them sung out, u Here is a steamer close by.’ 7 Jumping out of the 
boat we saw a steamer about a quarter of a mile distant, but only for a 
few seconds, the fog being very thick; then Hans had the very good 
idea of taking to his kyak and starting for the steamer, so, if they had 
not seen us, to attract their attention; the flag was fastened to the other 
boat and shots tired, and very soon we had the satisfaction of Seeing 
the steamer come alongside the piece. As soon as the steamer came in 
sight first, they cheered us and we cheered them. Two boats were sent 
from the steamer; all the men got into the boats and arrived safely 
aboard the steamer, which was named the Tigress, a sealing-steamer 
from Bay Koberts, Newfoundland. The captain, officers, and crew of 
the Tigress treated us very hospitably; all the men got clean clothing 
from the crew, and the men were lodged in the forecastle. Captain 
Tyson and myself had a room in the cabin. The Tigress had just come 
out on a second sealing-voyage, and did not intend to return right away, 
but was then cruising about to fall in with seals. A few days after we 


4 G 


came on board the Tigress she got beset in the ice, and remained so for 
two or three days ; we then saw a large batch of seals on the ice, killed 
about six hundred of them, got about half of them in, and the captain 
of the Tigress, Captain Bartlett, concluded then to force his way 
through the ice to Saint John’s, to deliver his seals and also the 
rescued party of the Polaris. Running down the coast of New¬ 
foundland we called into Bay Roberts, remained there a few days, 
and started for Saint John’s, where we arrived on the 12th of May. 
In Saint John’s the whole party was taken ashore by the American con¬ 
sul, and part of them lodged in the Atlantic Hotel and part of them 
in a boarding-house. We remained in Saint John’s until the Frolic ar¬ 
rived. I had a star-chart on the ice, and that enabled me to take 
observations. The star-chart would enable me to take the declination 
and right ascension of the star. I had a chronometer; the chronometer 
was abandoned on the ice. I meant to work the observations over, but 
had no chance to get a nautical almanac. My papers on ship-board 
consisted of the meteorological record and astronomical observations ; 
local observations while in winter-quarters ; all the surveys ; a private 
journal, that is, a record of transactions ; meteorological journal of un¬ 
usual phenomena; and some observations on the intensity of the earth’s 
magnetism. These may be on board the Polaris. They were put on the 
ice, and floated off on a broken piece. We saw the Polaris stop once for 
a length of time, and it is possible that the papers may have been picked 
up by the Polaris. My papers were on the ice, and Mr. Bryan’s also. I 
only accidentally went on the ice. I had a few books tied up in a bed- 
sheet, and heaving them overboard, it fell short, and so to pick them up 
I went out on the stern line, and then the ice parted and the ship went 
off. 

Question. At the time when you were separated from the ship had 
you any idea that the separation was any other than purely accidental ? 

Answer. My idea was at the commencement that it was accidental, 
but I thought that they neglected to pick us up, for it was possible to 
do so. The ice was not sufficient to keep them from picking us up. 

Question. Is it not possible, as they knew that you had the boats, and 
the natives were with you, that they might have expected you to come 
to them ? 

Answer. It is very likely they thought we could easier get to them 
than they to us, as we had the boats and the kyak, but the ship was 
safer than the boat, which is always stove by a piece of ice. We had 
to keep clear of every piece of ice sharply cornered. They thought, 
perhaps, “ They have got two boats; if they want to get to the ship they 
can do soso they showed indifference ; otherwise they would have 
pushed through the ice and come and picked us up. I don’t think that 
they had any intention to abandon us, but they looked to their own safety 
rather than to ours. I could not see much danger about coming through 
the ice at that time, and still later I saw a ship pushing through a great 
deal worse ice. The Polaris was not in very bad condition; she was 
a very strong vessel. 

Question. Did not this give you an idea that the Polaris was in a 
worse condition than you thought she was? 

Answer. I did not think she was in any worse condition than when 
we left her. I have only got to repeat the statement made yes¬ 
terday : When we left the vessel all the connection-pipes were solidly 
frozen up—filled with ice; so, in order to get the eugiue to start, they 
had to take time. It must have taken at least from ten to twelve hours 
to get the engine to go. She could only receive additional injury while 


47 


under the pressure, and if she received additional injury, then they 
would not have been able to keep her up until they had started the en¬ 
gine and pumped her out by steam, because they were short of hands— 
only fourteen persons aboard. If she was injured, we would not have 
seen her the next day steaming down. 

Question. Yet when you did part from her did she not receive enough 
pressure to frighten everybody ? 

Answer. I thought so until I got on the ice. Then I learned from 
Captain Tyson that the small hand-pump was able to keep the ship free, 
and that was about the same as she had been before she came under 
this heavy pressure. The Polaris was a very strong-built vessel, and 
she would not have leaked at all unless she had received injury by list¬ 
ing on the iceberg. When she was tied to the ice the tide would raise 
her. During the course of the winter she would rise and fall about six 
feet. When we saw the Tigress push through this worse ice, we thought 
that as strong a ship as the Polaris might have pushed through the ice * 
to get to us. This is the ground of my judgment. The wind was south 
and southeast when we separated. If the wind had not been from the 
southeast, she would not have been driven from the southward. The 
ship was driven north, and the ice we were on fetched up on the land. 
When I speak of the floe being jammed against the laud, that don’t 
mean that the floe itself just joins the land, but it was in connection 
with other pieces of ice which were jammed against another, and others 
against the land. We were about five miles from the land. The ice¬ 
berg was to the north of us and the island to the east of it, and we 
were wedged in between the two. The wind was very heavy when we 
separated, snow and snow-storm. It was in the evening; it was dark; 
the sun was going down for a winter rest. In this snow drift and snow¬ 
storm we could not see more than twenty yards. It was a dark time of 
year, and in the brightest day, when a heavy snow-drift set in, the view 
was very limited. The sun would rise about nine in the morning in 
October and set about three. The sun had been down about three 
hours. We tried twice to get to land, as I have described. The first 
time we were prevented by this small ice closing in between us and the 
land. When we started with the boats in the water we thought that 
the lead went right into the land, and before we got about a quarter or 
half a mile the pack-ice or small ice closed in, and prevented us from 
going any farther. This was on the small island called McGary, but 
marked Hakluyt in chart. I have no reason to suppose that Captain 
Hall died any other than a natural death. About the disease, I can 
only say what was told me by the physician. The physician told me 
that it was a case of apoplexy. I knew he had been paralyzed, so I 
believed that he died of apoplexy. I cannot say whether this is a 
symptom of apoplexy. Long before he ever went on this sledge 
journey, while we were going up in the channel, he very often com¬ 
plained of severe headache and pains in the neck, which were so 
severe that he could not stand up, but had to lie down. 1 have no rea¬ 
son to suppose that Captain Hall died any other than a natural death. 
I don’t know of anybody’s threatening him. I have never heard of any. 
I heard Captain Buddington remark that Captain Hall’s death was a 
great relief to him. I never heard anybody else make similar expres¬ 
sions. There was no suspicion on board the Polaris of any foul play. 
I don’t know whether Captain Buddington was sober when he said this. 

I have heard him make this remark quite often, yet I did not take the 
remark as indicating any foul play on the part of Captain Buddington, 
but I thought he did not like to be under the command of Captain Hall, 


48 


and liad a chance to come out now that he was dead. I have seen Cap¬ 
tain Buddington intoxicated a number of times, not before Captain 
Hall’s death, but only afterward. The appearance of the country in 
latitude 80° north showed that it was visited with very severe weather; 
the rocks were cracked, and all the hills had a large amount of loose 
stones and sand in front of them, which had beep cracked off by the 
frost and wind. The land, and especially the hills, were almost barren. 
In summer-time they would only produce a few flowers: field-flowers 
of different colors, and without scent, and small willow-shrubs, which 
would not rise in the air but only crawl along the ground. They were 
about half a foot long. The prevailing colors of the flowers were blue 
and red—bright colors. They are like the flowers I see in other places, 
but I don’t know the species. I had a collection, but I have forgotten 
the species. The land was not covered with suow during the summer¬ 
time. In the spring all the ravines would be filled with water; it would 
’ be rushing down toward the sea in great streams. The elevations 
about our winter-quarters—Thank God Harbor—were up to 900 and 
1,300 feet. I have taken the elevation of all the points on the east 
coast and on the west also. In the fall I was ordered to make a survey 
of Thank God Harbor. I made a survey by means of a plane-table, 
which I constructed. It was twelve miles long and nine miles wide. 
The survey of the channel and of Polaris Bay, and of the land as far as 
it could be seen to the south, I made in the spring of 1872. I took sta¬ 
tions in Thank God Harbor and in Newman’s Bay, and by these I made 
a survey of the whole district. Robeson Channel is about sixty-four 
miles long. The elevation from which I made the survey is 1,700 feet, 
and is in latitude 82° 9'. The horizon is forty-five miles distant. I saw to 
the north, as far as I could see, a bright line, which seemed to form a 
circle. This bright line has been seen by several others, and was taken 
for land by them. It was a very clear day when I saw it, and I took it 
for water. It was open water, I think. The only difficulty in gettiug 
farther north would be to push through Robeson Channel. Robeson 
Channel widens out, and very suddenly, and all the ice is gathered and 
pressed tightly together. The narrowest part of Robeson Channel is in 
latitude 82° 16'. If any vessel could push through this narrowest part, she 
could get as far as latitude 85° or 86°, and, perhaps, she could go farther. 
I was on the east side of Robeson Channel, and could see to the north¬ 
ward of Robeson Channel. The land to the east side runs round to the 
eastward. I took the bearing of one point, which was to the southward 
of the point I was on. On the west side, on Grinnell Land, I took the 
points as far as it could be seen. Cape Union, on Dr. Hayes’s map, is 
on a line with the coast-line. The coast here runs due north, and there 
were several points on the other side. Records were made of these sur¬ 
veys, and were among my papers. I just took the observations at the 
time. I thought I could see the horizon at forty-five miles. I could see 
no elevations. I just saw this bright line, which I took to be water. 
These observations were taken in latitude 82° 9', and we had got to 82° 16' in 
the ship. This was thirty-eight miles farther north. If there were any 
elevations directly to the north they could not be seen. The formation 
of the rock up there was slate. There were some petrified bamboo 
canes found in the slate. The soil in the lower part of the harbor was 
swampy. I could not give any judgment of the depth of soil, because 
we could not dig. The ground was frozen. The ground was frozen at 
the surface in September. In May we could dig down about nine inches 
before we got to the frost, and still later we could dig down from one to 
two feet. The lowest temperature that I observed during winter-quarters 


49 


was 58° below zero, and this occurred in January, but the coldest month 
was March. During March the mercury remained below the freezing of 
mercury during the whole of the month. It did not get below 58°. The 
soil was sandy and very dry in summer-time; the moisture dried oft* 
rapidly. They had rain in Thank God Harbor while I was out on the 
ice. Whenever it is raining on shore it is snowing on the ice. We saw 
a great number of northern lights. I believe that any clear day in win¬ 
ter a northern light could be seen. There is none seen in summer-time. 
During night, I have thought, most every twenty-four hours a northern 
light will be seen. The northern lights were not in great brilliancy at 
the far north. The general feature was an arch, but at times we have 
seen streamers also, and where a corona was formed we saw a rosy tint. 
We saw a great many very brilliant lights, especially in the latitude of 
60°. In the sixties (60°) the northern lights were very brilliant and 
very frequent, and in the seventies, far more rare; more scarce in this 
latitude than that we were in; more frequent, but less brilliant, as we 
got north. We had no auroral tables at our winter-quarters. We ex¬ 
perienced great disturbances of the magnetic needle. 'The observations 
were made with the magnetometer. The disturbances were more previ¬ 
ous to the aurora, about six hours. The needle varied twelve degrees. 
The original deviation may have been perhaps forty minutes. We saw 
a great number of shooting-stars in November and December. They 
were most abundant in November, about the 22d. In November I could 
hardly step outside of the observatory without seeing a shooting-star. 
Did not see any meteoric stones. We found the musk-ox, white dogs, 
hares, and two kinds of lemmings. One has a red back and red cap; 
the other was gray; and both were white in winter. The one with a 
red- back and cap is a little larger. AVe did not catch any fish. 
Saw immense quantities of shrimps, but no fish. I did not eat the 
shrimps, but one of the men had several dishes on board the Polaris. 
The shrimps were so abundant that in order to clear the meat from the 
bones of the skeletons, we just suspended them overboard half an hour, 
and the meat was all carried away. We took two skeletons of the musk¬ 
ox. I heard from the natives that the musk-ox that are there are not 
the same as those on the coast of Labrador. These latter have a strong 
smell of musk, and the meat has also a very strong taste of musk. We 
saw ducks and geese, snipes, (the geese are like our tame geese—no 
white geese,) dovekies, aud partridges. We did not see any remains of 
man, but we saw traces of Esquimaux in Thank God Harbor, on the 
ground to the southward. We saw circles of stones, which indicate 
that there have been Esquimaux tents. They use seal-skin for tents in 
the summer-time; when they pull up the tent they leave stones in a cir¬ 
cle. We also found at Thank God Harbor the remains of Esquimaux 
weapons; for instance, the point of a lance, made of bone, and the 
smaller harpoon that they use with a line. These remains were very 
well preserved. They were not more than ten or twenty years old. If 
they are dug out of the ground and the bones are very old, they seem 
black; but these seemed to be very well preserved. There was another 
thing that makes me think that they could not be very old; 
they were taken out of a swampy soil, aud this soil has been increas¬ 
ing so that we could see an increase during our stay at Thank God 
Harbor, and the depth at which these remains were found was not 
more than two feet. The increase was such that we could see and take 
notice of it. There is another thing that has been found at a great ele¬ 
vation: the runners of a sled were found at an elevation of 000 feet 
above the sea-level, on Cape Lupton. These habitations were sumrner- 
4 p 


50 


residences of tlie Esquimaux. It suggested itself to us that these Es¬ 
quimaux had only come there during the summer, and had gone back to 
their real place of residence during the winter. It appears likely they had 
come from the west coast. I think so, because as far as the Esquimaux 
have been traced on the east side is below Humboldt Glacier, and we did 
not think it likely that they would start across Humboldt Glacier and 
come up to latitude 81° 38', and more likely they came from the other 
side, from Grinnell Land. A very diligent Esquimaux could live up 
here by providing a supply of meat during the summer; there are wal¬ 
rus, and a multitude of seals. We generally wore woolen clothing, 
which is considerably warmer than skin clothing, which is made of seal¬ 
skin. It is only of comfort when the wind is very sharp, and if the 
woolen clothing is under the seal skin it will prevent the cold entering 
through the woolen clothing. The deer skin is the best, and bear is 
very warm, but we did not have it. Captain Hall did not succeed in 
getting it. Our arms were furnished by the Navy Department, and 
were Bemington rifles and Sharp’s. The metallic cartridges were very 
good. Joe says he likes the Bemington rifles. He says he would very 
much like to have one. The breech broke otf of the one he used during 
the whole voyage when we were on the Tigress. When I last saw the 
Polaris she was rounding Cape Bobertson, coming down toward North¬ 
umberland Island. I didn’t see her in harbor, but others have seen her— 
on the bay ice, as I have been told, between the islands and the west 
shore. The sound is about twenty-five miles wide. There are natives 
along here at Netlik, where is a summer-settlement of the Esquimaux. 
They leave their dogs during the winter on the island. The dogs do 
not try to get away. I think the Polaris will leave the harbor in the 
month of July, and she will have the chances of coming south and 
getting to Disco; there she can re-coal, and go down to Newfoundland. 
I think she is sound enough to go anywhere. If they should not be able 
to get her out of harbor, they can build a scow out of the timber of the 
ship, and go down in the same manner as Kane did. They have pro¬ 
visions probably to last them during the winter, and on their way home. 
All the pork is on board ; a whole room filled with hard bread ; a great 
nnmber of barrels of flour, rice, meal, &c. They will not be likely to 
kill seals, because there is no experienced hunter on board. It is very 
difficult for a white man to kill a seal. There were a hundred tons ot 
coal left at Disco, and an immense quantity of stores. Disco is in lati¬ 
tude 00° 13'. They are about 360 miles north of Disco. As soon as 
they reach the first settlement they are safe; this is about 250 miles from 
them. There is, however, an Esquimaux settlement within about 40 
miles of them. Cape York is 100 or 120 miles from them; that is the next 
permanent settlement. I have no doubt about their being able to get out. 
They have a much easier time to get out than we had. It is very sel¬ 
dom that the ice-bar is below Whale and Murchison Sounds. The only 
difficulty they will have is to break out; and perhaps they will succeed 
in breaking out in July. If the ship should not be sound, they will have 
started by this time in a scow. They will have to build a sledge for the 
scow and sled the scow across the ice. They would have to build a 
scow 20 feet long. They are well supplied with provisions. There was 
some difficulty between myself and Captain Hall when we started, at 
Disco. The difficulty was occasioned by Captain Hall prohibiting me 
from making any meteorological observations, as he wauted me to at¬ 
tend to the navigation of the ship. I thought I had to comply with 
my orders. And Captain Hall intended to send me back to the States. 
He ordered me to attend solely to the navigation of the ship, and not 


51 


make any meteorological observations at all. This is the only difficulty 
I had with Captain Hall. I do not know of any violence on board the 
ship—of any violence, or any symptoms of it. There was discipline as 
long as Captain Hall was alive; but I could not see much afterward. 
During Captain Hall’s life the crew behaved pleasantly ; there was no 
actual difficulty after Captain Hall’s death. Our health was very good. 
There were a few symptoms of scurvy, but very slight; I had the scurvy, 
but not very much ; but my legs were swollen and discolored ; a few ap¬ 
peared to complain about their teeth and gums. Doctor Bessels’s health 
was very good ; Captain Buddington’s health was very good; Mr. Bryan’s 
health was very good. Dr. Bessels suffered very much from his eyes, and 
had very often to abandon his work on that account. There were a few at¬ 
tempts to make photographs, but they were generally failures. We had to 
use the observatory for a dark room, and the moisture would concentrate 
on the plates and freeze up, and so the chemicals would peel right off. 
The night we got separated Captain Buddington gave the orders to land 
the stores and provisions on the ice; 1 heard him. He said, “ Heave 
overboard.*’ The provisions were kept in order, so as to be ready at any 
moment. I threw my papers overboard, and Mr. Bryan threw his over 
on to the ice. It was understood that the order would not be given 
unless it would be necessary to go on to the ice. Captain Buddington 
was very much excited when he gave the order to u heave overboard.” 
He ordered half the crew out on the ice; some men must go out on the 
ice and collect the provisions and stores. He did not send the Esqui¬ 
maux out of the ship that I know. They labored under the impression 
that the ship was in a sinking condition. Then they put their children 
out on the ice, and put out some of their smaller articles. Captain Bud- 
dingtou was sober at this time. Captain Hall’s papers were aboard at 
the time. When I saw Captain Hall’s journal last it was in the hands 
of Captain Buddington. I never saw anybody tear anything out of the 
journal, nor burn any. I attended to the navigation of the ship after 
leaving Disco. I constructed the ship’s track during the winter. Lt was 
very difficult, because we had no deviation of the compass. The ship was 
not swung to correct the compasses before we left harbor. These cal¬ 
culations were among the things that were thrown overboard. They 
were kept by me in a box. Mr. Bryan’s were packed in a similar box; 
I did not see them after the ship went off. The Polaris steamed all the 
way from Disco to Winter Harbor. She could not have got there with¬ 
out steaming. The wind was very light, and mostly from the north. 

At Newman’s Bay and Polaris Bay in the summer-time we found drift¬ 
wood, not large timber, but small brush. That which was found in 
Newman’s Bay was black walnut, ash, and red pine; some pieces were 
six inches long and some as much as twelve inches. It was in consider¬ 
able quantity, and found only on the southern coast. I believed it came 
from the European seas. This wood did not grow at Newman’s Bay, 
being much larger than the native growth of willow. It was not cut 
but broken. I looked carefully for wood on the northern shore of the 
bay, but could not find any. The shore runs from N. W. to S.E. Drift¬ 
wood was found the first summer on Polaris Bay. Wood appeared to 
be branches of trees; the pine was more decayed than any other; wal¬ 
nut was in a good state of preservation. When cut it seemed t) give 
the smell of walnut; was evidently not the fragment of a vessel. A 
great number of records were put in monuments. When I went to New¬ 
man’s Bay I deposited one record-cylinder, containing news of Captain 
Hall’s death, with latitude and lougitude of place of deposit. I believe 
I surveyed a little above 84° on the west coast; on the east coast 


52 


about 82° 30'. The character of tlie coast, all along, is very sharp and 
well defined—Cape Lupton is the southern extremity of Robeson Chan¬ 
nel ; Cape Brevoort is the northern point of Newman’s Bay. The name 
given to southern point of Newman’s Bay, by Captain Hall, was Sumner 
Headland. The shores consisted of slate, and at the base of the cliff’s 
were large quantities of broken slate and granite, the latter being broken 
from granite bowlders in the slate-rock. It would seem that at some 
time the shores had been covered with glaciers, but at the present time 
none exist, except one at the head of Newman’s Bay, which does not ex¬ 
tend far to the southward; there are moraines visible on shores of New¬ 
man’s Bay. One ice-floe in Newman’s Bay was three days and nights 
and half of another day in passing a given point, at an estimated speed 
of nine miles per day. This floe must have been very wide, also, as it 
seemed to occupy the whole breadth of channel, grinding against ice 
on both sides. Pash-ice on coast of Labrador was fresh-water ice, 
ground up on the pack-ice along shore. The water we used on the 
floe during drift was obtained from small fresh-water lakes, formed from 
snow deposits. Salt-water frozen finally gives fresh ice. 

In the spring of 1872, Dr. Bessels addressed a written communication 
to Captain Buddington, setting forth his wish that two sledge expedi¬ 
tions should be sent out under his direction—one to the south and the 
other to the north, and proposing a system of signals by which commu¬ 
nication should be kept up with the ship in the event of her leaving winter 
quarters during the absence of either expedition. This was answered in 
writing by Captain Buddington, to the effect that he proposed to take 
the boats and go himself when the weather become favorable, and no fur¬ 
ther action was taken on the matter. I believe that a party might have 
gone much farther north by establishing a sub-base of supplies at New¬ 
man’s Bay, and this would have been done but for the unpleasant relations 
existing between Captain Buddington and Dr. Bessels. I saw the whole 
correspondence referred to, and, in fact, wrote Captain Bpddington’s 
letter for him, under his direction. 


53 


JOSEPH EBIERBING (ESQUIMAUX JOE) EXAMINED. 

I have a liome in this country, near New London, Connecticut. I came 
to this country with Captain Hall, first in 18G2, and afterward in 1870, 
and went with him in the Polaris when she sailed from Brooklyn. Cap¬ 
tain Hall was my friend. 

Question. Can you tell us what happened on board the Polaris after 
you left Brooklyn ? 

[An evident difficulty in comprehending question.] 

Answer. Ship all right while Captain Hall alive. We went, first, New 
London, then Saint John, then to Holsteinburg, Disco, Upernavik, Tes- 
siusak, and to north. I don’t remember how many days from Tessiusak 
to the north, till stopped by ice. There we remained till carried back 
by the ice ; ice carried us back to place where we wintered. We were 
tied to the ice. 

Question. What did you do in winter quarters'? 

Answer. I went to hunt musk-ox again with Mr. Chester, with Cap¬ 
tain Hall’s permission, having seen animals’ tracks. 

Question. Did you go on sledge journey with Captain Hall ? 

Answer. Yes ; I drove one team of dogs; Hans, the other, with Mr. 
Chester. 

Question. How far did you go ? 

Answer. I don’t know, but by (straight) road fifty miles from ship, as 
Captain Hall told me. The road longer than this, but fifty miles straight. 
We staid two weeks. Captain Hall called the place Newman’s Bay, 
and the northern part Cape Brevoort. Captain Hall wanted to go one 
hundred miles from ship, but darkness came on, and he could not. Then 
we returned to the ship. 

Question. Did Captain Hall erect at Newman’s Bay a cache, or leave 
any record of his visit ? 

Answer. At Cape Brevoort we buried the paper in different languages 
with writing which Captain Hall had for this purpose. We dug a hole 
in the earth, and made over it a heap of stone, or cache. We went on 
the ice a few miles farther north than Cape Brevoort, but were unable 
to land at a higher latitude on account of the weak ice along shore. 

Question. Do you know of a cache erected at any other point ? 

Answer. Yes; whenever a party went from the ship to any distance 
to hunt, or for any purpose, a cache was built and paper deposited. 

Question. How was Captain Hall’s health during this journey? 

Answer. Very good all the way and back; told me every time we 
stopped that he was happy; next spring would go farther north. When 
we reached the ship it was dark—before supper. 

Question. How was Captain Hall’s health at this time? 

Answer. Very well, far as I know. 

Question. Did you go on board ship with him ? 

Answer. Yes, sir. 

Question. Where did he live on board ship? 

Answer. In the cabin; with him,Dr. Bessels, Mr. Schumann, the en¬ 
gineer, and Mr. Bryan. 

Question. Did you live in the cabin ? 

Answer. In the cabin below. 

Question. When was Captain Hall taken sick ? 


54 

Answer. After supper somebody tell me Captain Hall was very sick 
just after he came on board. 

Question. Tell us all about it. 

Answer. He did not come to supper. Then I went to see Hannah. I 
had driven sledge very hard, and after supper went to sleep down stairs. 
Captain Hall did not eat supper, but only took cup of coffee. I did not 
see him that night. I saw him next morning, Sunday morning. He 
did not speak. He remained abed. After breakfast he asked to speak 
to me. He says, “ Very sick last night.” I asked him what is the mat¬ 
ter. He says, “ I do not know. I took cup of coffee. In a little while 
very sick and vomiting. 77 He was sick the first time two or three days. 
Complained of stomach, headache, and bone-ache. After he got better 
I go to see him every day, every night. After a while something the 
matter with head. Did not know anything. Perhaps crazy. I tried to 
speak him. He did uot know me. I wish to stay with him. Captain 
Hall called me to stay with him. After he got better, I asked him what 
made him sick. He says, “ I don’t know.* 7 Everybody went to break¬ 
fast. 1 staid with him. I said I was very glad he was better. He said, 
“ I have been sick. Don’t know whether I will live or not.” I asked 
him, “Do you know what is matter?” He says, “ I can’t tell what is 
the matter. Bad stomach. Very bad stomach.” After getting break¬ 
fast I wanted to find out what was the matter with him. A man came 
down into the cabin, and he said nothing to me more. After that Han¬ 
nah talked to him. Every morning I was absent seal-hunting. I over¬ 
heard Captain Buddington talk about Captain Hall. I wanted to hear. 
Captain Buddington said he was sick again. Did not know me. Once 
in a while he called, “ Halloo, Joe!” Then did not know me. Two 
nights he was very sick. Died two nights and one day after. 

Question. Did he speak to you again ? 

Answer. Last time did not know me. Wanted drink cold water. I 
tried to speak to him. He did not know me. I gave him a glass of 
water. He could not swallow it. It came from his nose. 

Question. How long was he sick altogether? 

Answer. I think about two weeks. 

Question. Did he say anything else ? 

Answer. Nothing else. 

Question. He did not say anything about being poisoned ? 

Answer. Yes; something, i can’t tell sure. After getting to ship 
he asked me, “ Now, Joe, did you drink bad coffee?” I told him no. 
I did not feel sick. 

Question. Did you drink of the same coffee ? 

Answer. I do not know; the cook gave it to me. 

Question. What more did Captain Hall say ? 

Answer. That the coffee made him sick. 

Question. Was that when you first went to see him ? 

Answer. Yes. 

Question. Did he talk to you afterward? 

Answer. No ; that was the last time he talked in that way. 

Question. Were you with him when he died ? 

Answer. At that time very sick ; did not know anything; could not 
swallow. Captain Buddington called me in the morning. He said, 
“Captain Hall very near dying; most dead.” Then I got up and go 
see; his breath was gone. [Joe and Hannah much affected.] It was 
very hard at that time. Our friend gone. I did not see him much 
when he died. 


55 


Question. Did Captain Hall tell you at any time, wlien lie knew wliat 
he was saying, that anybody had poisoned him ? 

Answer. Once, all alone, he tell me, u Bad stuff in coffee ; feel it after 
awhile; burn stomach.” 

Question. When did he tell you that ? 

Answer. That time he was a little better. 

Question. That was the only time he spoke of it ? 

Answer. Yes. 

Question. Did you ever hear anybody else speak of it ? 

Answer. Some time after that I heard Captain Buddington and all 
the men in cabin talk: I did not know what they mean ; I could not 
understand all they say ; can’t say what. 

Question. You saw Captain Hall buried % 

Answer. Yes; my wife and little child. 

Question. Who read the service ? 

Answer. Mr. Bryan. 

Question. Who dug his grave ? 

Answer. Captain Tyson, with some men ; Mr. Morton $ dug with pick¬ 
ax through the stone aud frozen ground. 

Question. What did they put over his grave ? 

Answer. A board, with painted marks, at the head of the grave. 

Question. What did they do after his death ? 

Answer. Nothing much ; at that time very dark. 

Question. AVas there any quarreling on board ship before Captain 
Hall died ? 

Answer. Not much that I understood ; I was out sealing every day. 

Question. After Captain Hall died was there any quarreling ? 

Answer. Very little—sometimes. 

Question. How did Captain Buddington treat you ? 

Answer. Pretty well; not so good as Captain Hall after that; he 
treated us pretty well. 

Questiou. What happened till the time you were left on the ice ? 

Answer. We staid on board till Tyson and Chester went north in 
boat; I was not allowed to go with them. Captain Hall told me that 
we must go north before we turned back. Once in a while I asked Cap¬ 
tain Buddington to let me do something before we return to America. 
I would like to go north before going south. Captain Buddington told 
me to go aboard; he would not let me go north with the party. Mr. 
Chester before, with Doctor Bessels and Mr. Bryan, went south some 
two weeks; I went with them. But Captain Buddington would not 
let me go north. I asked him to go on expedition proposed—one boat 
for Hans, another for me. He said, u You no go; you stay aboard 
ship.” It made me feel bad. I never went north again. 

Question. \A r hat did you do besides hunting ? 

Answer. Nearly all the men went in the expedition. I had work 
aboard ship to do. 

Question. Do you remember when you lost the ship ? 

Answer. Yes, sir. 

Question. How did you get out of the ship ? 

Answer. There was a big floe that the ship was alongside two 
mouths. Came south with it. After getting supper one night the ship 
came pretty near shore. Somebody called me and told me to get every¬ 
thing ready. I went on deck. In a little while ship was shaken by ice. 
Tipped up. Shoved up on beam-ends. Everybody worked to get pro¬ 
vision and clothing on ice. Captain Buddington sent us down on the 
ice. Then Hannah aud little girl got on ice. Blowing hard. Very 


56 


dark. Half the men on board ship. Men working on the ice. I was 
helping. I had rifle and ammunition. Took care of my rifle for fear I 
should need. After while wind came harder. Storming. Ice broke be¬ 
tween us and the ship. Ship floated oft‘. In a little while we lost her. 
The anchor holding ice had broke away. We waited till daylight. I 
thought we should never again see steamer. After daylight I saw, the 
other side of cape, smoke. I thought the vessel would come to look for 
us. We could see steam-pipe on board ship. We put big rubber 
blanket on mast, but they went back of island and did not come for us. 
Can’t tell whether they were much injured or all right. Ship no leak. 
No hurt about it. I went to look after my things, and in a little while 
ship gone. 

Question. You don’t think they left you on the ice on purpose. 

Answer. No, ice broke. Captain thought he would lose ship. 

Question. Do you think the ship could return to you ? 

Answer. Everybody think she could come back. Ice in small pieces. 
Had gone through much worse ice before. 

Question. Have you with you anything belonging to Captain Hall ! 

Answer. Yes. I have Captain Hall’s writing-desk. 

|Witnessproduces writing-desk, containing several packages of letters 
addressed to Captain Hall, and other papers.] 

Question. Where did you get this ? 

Answer. From Captain Buddington. He told me, at first, that it be¬ 
longed with the ship’s papers, but at last he gave it to me. It was put 
out on the ice with the other things from ship, where I found it. I lived 
on the ice with Captain Tyson. Men were sometimes hungry and un¬ 
ruly. 

Question. Was everybody on board ship well when you saw them 
last ? 

Answer. Yes. Dr. Bessels, Mr. Bryan, and everybody. Plenty of 
seal-meat. Plenty of provisions. 

Question. Do you think the ship safe ? 

Answer. I don’t know. If they try to save it they will save it. It is 
very strong. Can be saved. 

Question. Do you want to return North ? 

Answer. I would not like to$ Haptain Hall my friend. With a man 
like him, I would go back. Captain Buddington get drunk sometimes, 
little after Captain Hall’s death • didn’t see it before. Once in a while 
Captain Hall would distribute little liquor to crew. 

Question. Is there anything else you can think of, or that you want 
to tell * 

Answer. Captain Hall good man. Very sorry when he die. No get 
north after that. Don’t know nothing more. 


HANNAH (WIFE OF JOE) EXAMINED, JOE REMAINING 

PRESENT. 

Question. You are the wife of Joe ? 

Answer. Yes. 

Question. And sailed in the Polaris with Captain Hall ? 

Answer. Yes. 

Question. Did anything remarkable happen before you got to Disco ? 
Answer. Nothing. We went north, stopping at Upernavik and Tes- 
siusak, and thence till stopped by the ice. After we were stopped by 
the ice the ship was driven back, and then went into winter quarters. 
1 remember Captain Hall’s departure on the northern journey, and his re- 



57 


tarn. I came down on the ice to see him. He was pleased with his 
journey. Had had a good time. He said he would finish next spring. 

Question. When did you next see Captain Hall on board ship ? 

Answer. About an hour after getting on board Captain Hall sent the 
little girl to call me up. I found Mr. Morton undressing him, and wash¬ 
ing his feet. Captain Hall was sick. He spoke about being sick and 
vomiting. He said he had vomited three times since became onboard. 
I asked him if he had got cold. He said he felt well enough in the 
morning. 

Question. Was he numb on one side? 

Answer. He did not say. 

Question. What did he say else ? 

Answer. Nothing else at that time. He wanted me to make ready things 
for journey with Tyson and Chester. He thought he was going to get 
better right olf, and wanted me to be ready next day but one. 

Question. Did he say anything about the coffee ? 

Answer. Not at that time. 

Question. When did he say anything about it to you? 

Answer. Next day. Very sick then. Worse than last night. I ob¬ 
served him close. He was very sleepy. He felt bad. He wanted to 
keep still. Did not say much. 

Question. Did he say anything to you about coffee being bad ? 

Answer. After he had been bad about the head he began to get bet¬ 
ter. Then he talked about the coffee. He said the coffee made him 
sick. Too sweet for him. “ It made me sick and to vomit. 7 ’ 

Question. He said it was too sweet for him ? 

Auswer. Yes. That was all. 1 used to make coffee for him and tea. 
He said he never saw anything like the coffee he took on coming on 
board. 

Question. Did he say anything to you about anybody having poisoned 
him ? 

Question. When something was the matter with his head, and he 
was hallooing and talking, he spoke of somebody having poisoned him ; 
but only when he was crazy. 

Question. Did you believe anybody had poisoned him ? 

Answer. No; I did not believe it. 

Question. Did Captain Hall have any quarrel ? 

Answer. No quarrel that I know of. 

Question. You w^ere with him every day while sick ? 

Answer. Yes, sir. 

Question. You never heard him accuse anybody of having poisoned 
him, except when delirious ? 

Answer. No. 

Question. Did Captain Hall speak to you after his first sickness re¬ 
garding his feelings ? 

Answer. Captain Hall told me after his first sickness that his stomach 
was all right, and thought he would get better. 

Question. Did he tell you anything about his papers? 

Answer. O, yes. He said to take care of the papers; get them home, 
and give them to the Secretary. If anything had happened to the 
Secretary, to give them to some one else. After his death I told Cap¬ 
tain Buddington of this charge several times. He said he would give 
them to me by and by. 

Question. Were you with him when he died? 

Answer. Yes, sir. 

Question. How was he when he died ? 

Answer. Very bad. Would halloo. He wanted Captain Buddington 


58 


to come up stairs. Joe got up. All the rest got up. Did not know us 
then. He thought he was dreaming. I asked him what he was about. 
He did not know what he was saying. He looked at me, and wanted to 
know where Hannah was. Did not know me. Then, till ship came south, 
Joe was hunting, and I remained on board. 

Question. Do you remember when you lost the ship ? 

Answer. Yes, sir. 

Question. How was that ? 

Answer. The wind blew hard. We were driven on ice. Captain 
Buddington thought the ship was going to be lost. Ordered every¬ 
thing ready to go on ice. I took my clothes. We tried to get every¬ 
thing off. We all worked like horses. Everybody tumbled over 
everybody. Then I went on the ice, and then came aboard again. 
I had left my trunk on board. I asked the fireman who was 
pumping how the ship was. He said the ship was all right. Was 
not tipped over at this time. He was pumping close to my door. 
He said, “ You need not carry anything more out, you will come 
aboard all right to-night.” I staid down in cabin a few minutes. Cap¬ 
tain Buddington told me to go on ice, and to take my things with me. 
I told him that fireman said, ship all right. He replied, u Never you 
mind; take little girl and go on ice.” Mr. Myers came on ice little after 
I did. In a few minutes ship went. Very dark. Snowing thick, wet. 
The ship broke away from us. The hawser slipped from anchor, which 
had been planted in the ice. It was gone in a few minutes, it was so 
dark. 

Question. Did you see the ship again? 

Answer. Yes, next morning. We tried to go on shore, to the ship, 
but we were prevented by the drifting ice. Then we got back on the 
same floe. That night we were blown away and floated off. We never 
saw the ship again. I think the ship would have saved us if she had 
come out after us in the first place, but the heavy wind carried us off. 
We felt bad enough. 

Question. Don’t you think they tried to come to you ? 

Answer. Don’t believe they saw us; we saw them. 

Question. Do you think the ship is all right now ? 

Answer. O, yes ; it is safe. It is in a very good place. There are no 
icebergs there. They are behind a little island. They will be able to get 
out in the summer-time. 

Question. Do you think they have plenty of provisions ? 

Answer. O, yes; some Esquimaux there. They can hunt for fresh 
meat. Esquimaux can come to them as soon as the ice is made. We 
floated off on this cake of ice. We were on it nearly five months. 
Then we traveled from piece to piece. 

Question. Who was in command of the party on the ice ? 

Answer. Nobody. 

Question. Was not Captain Tyson in command ? 

Answer. Well, he did not have much. He could not control them. 
He tried to do everything he could. He was a good man. We have 
known him a good many years. He tried to do everything for the 
best; sometimes they would not mind him ; I sorry, and Joe very sorry 
too. Some time little provisions left ; just before we were taken off, 
about a week, we thought we were going to starve, but the bear 
saved us; the bear came across the pack-ice. He smelt the seals, and 
the people. Joe chased him ; the men laid down out of sight. These 
animals sometimes go out on the ice in that way. Have seen Esqui¬ 
maux crazy sometimes. No doctor; some of us take care of him ; some¬ 
times men, and sometimes women; don’t know what makes it. 


59 

HANS CHRISTIAN EXAMINED. 

Question. Do you talk English! 

Answer. Very little. 

[The examination conducted principally through interpretation of Joe 
and Hannah.] 

Was in the ship when Captain Hall died; was with him in his journey 
north; with Mr. Chester and Captain Hall. 

Question. Was Captain Hall well! 

Answer. Yes, very good. Came aboard in afternoon ; pretty quick he 
got sick; don’t know what was the matter. 

Question. Were you with him while he was sick ! 

Answer. I was alongside of him after he was sick. 

Question. Was he crazy! 

Answer. I don’t know. (After urging by Joe.) Yes, all the time. I 
remember the night when we lost the ship. 

Question. How did you get out of her! 

Answer. I took wife and children out, and put them on the ice. I 
thought ship was gone. Ice soon broke. Line break, and ship went 
away in the night. Little use on the ice. We floated on the ice for six 
months. Killed two bears and many seals, and at last were picked up 
by Tigress. 

Hannah was directed to ask Hans if he had anything more to say. 
[Hannah.] He has nothing further he wants to say. Too hot here; 
children sick, and he wants to go home right off. 

[Hans much pleased at promise of return to Greenland.] 


60 


JOHN HERRON, STEWARD, EXAMINED. 

I was born in Liverpool, but am a citizen of the United States; 31 
years ot age, and was a steward of the Polaris, and sailed with her 
from New York. After leaving Upernavik, we were progressing north¬ 
ward. Were stopped by the ice a little, but forced our way through it 
across Melville Bay, and up Smith’s Sound. Went on till w r e came to 
what was supposed to be Kane’s Open Polar Sea. We found that to be 
a bay. Captain Hall called that bay Polaris Bay. Went beyond that 
through another bay, about thirty or thirty-live miles wide, which Cap¬ 
tain Hall called Robeson Channel or Strait. We went up this channel 
to latitude 82° 1G'; that was what the scientific men made it. Don’t 
think Captain Hall thought it was higher, at least didn’t hear him say 
anything to the contrary. I could not see through the strait at that 
time, as it was hazy, but the following summer I could. We came down 
into Polaris Bay, where we had our winter-quarters. We put provisions 
ashore, and built an observatory on shore for the scientific men. On 
the 12th of October Captain Hall went north on a sledge-journey. A 
very stormy winter-day set in, and I was afraid he would suffer from the 
cold. When he came back I asked him if he had been in snow-houses, but 
said he had been traveling all the time. He came back on the 24th of 
October. I met him in the gangway, and shook hands with him. He 
seemed pleased with the way things had been going while he was 
away. Presume he had a good account from Captain Buddingtou. He 
thanked the men for conducting themselves so well while away. When 
he came into the cabin the heat seemed to affect him very much. The 
temperature in the cabin was about 60° to 70°; outside it was about 15° 
to 20° below zero. I think the change of temperature affected him. All 
our men have suffered, and I myself have suffered very much since we 
came aboard the ship Tigress. He asked me if I had any coffee ready. 
I told him there was always enough under way down stairs in the 
galley. I asked him if he would have anything else. He said 
that was all he wanted. I went down stairs and got a cup of 
coffee. I did not make the coffee. I told the cook it was for 
Captain Hall. He drank white lump-sugar in his coffee. Never 
cared for milk. He then took a hot-bath, a foot-bath, with a 
sponge. He did not complain of feeling unwell when he drank the 
cup of coffee; said he felt tired, and soon after laid down for the night. 
I don’t think he was sick that night. He might possibly, have been 
sick without my knowing it. Not until a couple of days afterward he 
had the doctor attend to him. He was not a man to take much medi¬ 
cine. Dr. Bessels attended him. I thiuk it was on the third day 
when he took to his bed. He was taken down suddenly. I thought it 
was the heat, and the doctor said it was apoplexy. He might have been 
paralyzed before he died. I do not remember about that. There were 
a few times when I thought he seemed to be getting well. I saw him 
sitting in the cabin dressed and writing. I asked Mr. Morton how he 
was. We did not eat in that cabin then. We had another place for 
dining, and I didn’t go in very often through the day. I did not see 
him die, but shortly after. It was in the morning, a little of three 
o’clock. I have forgotten the day; some time in the early part of No¬ 
vember. 


61 

Question. Did you hear that he accused any one of trying to poison 
him ! 

Answer. I have heard him pass remarks of that kind about his medi¬ 
cine, but did not take any notice of it. One night he threw his cur¬ 
tains aside and said the cook had a gun in his bed, and wanted to 
shoot him. 

Question. Did you have any idea that he died from any other than 
natural causes ! 

Answer. No, sir ; and have no other idea than that now. 

Question. Was there any quarreling between him and anybody else! 

Answer. There was something that was not right between him and 
Mr. Meyer at Disco. Something about an order he would not obey. 
Captain Hall wished him to do some writing for him, which he refused 
to do. Captain Hall told him he was the officer of the vessel, and Mr. 
Meyer said he had his orders from headquarters. Captain Hall wished 
him to produce these orders, and then Dr. Bessels took the thing up and 
said that if Mr. Meyer wanted to go on shore he could do so. The 
men said if he did they would do the same. Captain Hall then went 
himself and spoke to the men. The consequence was Mr. Meyer went to 
his duty, and Dr. Bessels to his. During Captain Hall’s life-time there 
was nothing more of this kind. I think every man respected Captain 
Hall very much; I do not believe there is any one that would have done 
anything wrong to him. There was a coolness between him and Dr. 
Bessels; I don’t believe he was the man he expected when he left the 
United States, and he could not help showing it sometimes. That is the 
only reason I can see for it. Captain Hall died and was buried, and 
the ship lay in winter-quarters until the next summer. We drifted up 
alongside an iceberg, where a spur made out under her bow. We could 
not get her off, and she rode on that all winter, rising and falling with 
the tide, straining her stem so that she leaked very bad next spring 
when she broke out. That was the only leak she had. I never knew 
her to make much water on the passage. During the winter we done 
very little; when the weather permitted the men cleaned decks but most 
of the time they had nothing to do but amuse themselves. The sci¬ 
entific men kept up their observations night and day, relieving each 
other—I mean Dr. Bessels, Mr. Bryan, and Mr. Meyer. In the spring 
they went on an expedition north. Captain Tyson went in one boat, 
Mr. Chester in the other. I did not go with them ; I was with the 
ship. I didn’t take notice what the temperature was there in the summer, 
but in quiet weather, when there was not wind, it was very nice weather. 
There was not very much snow; the snow that falls there is as fine 
as flour, so fine that if we were not dressed in skins it would go right 
through our clothes. There were plenty of flowers there; they grow 
out of a kind of moss that grows there; there were several specimens 
brought aboard the ship. If the ship comes home there will be plenty; 
I have none here with me; could not save any. I remember seeing 
some timber that had been carried there—part of a sleigh. There were 
traces of Esquimaux in Polaris Bay ; they seemed to come down in the 
fall and go up again in the spring. There was also a little drift timber 
brought back to the ship; it was so much worn could not say what kind 
it was. They had also made a fire in Newman’s Bay. There were some 
records put ashore in Polaris Bay, in a mountain ; I have forgotten the 
name. 1 heard them speak about it; I did not see them do it; but of 
course it was done. Captain Hall threw some of those cylinders over¬ 
board with records in. We finally started to go south in August. We 
had tried to go farther north. We went on the mountain and could see 


62 


pretty good water to the north. Just at that time we thought we would 
have little difficulty in getting north. Finally concluded to go south; 
tried to pick the best route. We had about 40 or 50 miles pretty 
straight run, and then got beset; drifted right down and got surrounded. 
We tried several times to get out; we tried to get into one of the leads, 
but found it impossible; if we had more steam-power we could have 
done so. The screw of the steamer was bent; the ice had been knock¬ 
ing against it. 

I remember the night we got separated from the ship ; it was the 15th 
of October; it was almost altogether dark in that latitude then ; it hap¬ 
pened in the evening; wind was blowing; cannot say if it was snow¬ 
ing ; it is always drifting there. I did not keep any record aboard the 
ship; I did not have time. On the ice I did. The ice came pressing in 
on our starboard side. Captain Buddington gave the word for every 
man to save what he could, and look out for his life. We had every¬ 
thing brought on deck for such an occasion ; everything was in readi¬ 
ness. The first thing we done was to place the women and children on 
the ice, expecting the ship to go down every minute, Next thing w T e 
threw over provisions; we threw them so fast that some of them were 
getting lost. Captain Buddington sang out for some of the men to get 
on the ice. We got on the ice to move the things back, and then went 
aboard to get some cooking-utensils. I went aboard to hand some 
things out; I had been out again but a few minutes when they sang 
out, u Lower the boats.” The ice we were on was cracking. The ship 
slipped anchor, and in three or four minutes we were afloat on different 
pieces of ice. The ship went away in the (iarkness. We had an im¬ 
mense quantity of provisions, but saved very little of them. We tried 
to get ashore next morning. We thought by launching a boat we could 
take everything we had ashore. We got about half a mile when the 
running ice stopped us. We saw the ship to the northward of us ; we 
all thought she was coming for us. We set a flag up ; we had an India- 
rubber blanket, and thought they would see it against the snow. I 
think they could hardly help seeing us. We remained there quietly, 
thinking they were coming for us. She steamed behind an island, 
Northumberland Island I think it is called, and then we lost sight of 
her. We saw she was not coming for us. At the same time we went 
drifting south. We tried again that night, but could not get ashore; 
tried several times after that, but lost things each time. We finally got 
back on the main floe, on which the ship was originally anchored. In 
trying to get ashore we .lost one of our boats, but found it again after¬ 
ward. 

Question. What do you think of the condition of the ship ? 

Answer. When the order was given to get the things off', and the 
fireman went back, the mate told him to stay on board; she was mak¬ 
ing no more water then than she had been all along. I do not think 
the crushing she received then made her leak any more; she was a 
splendid ice-boat if she only had a little more steam-power. She was 
built very strong. Her beams and knees were sound and good. I don’t 
think Captain Buddington meant to abandon us. He either thought 
we could easily get ashore, or else he could not get through the ice. 
I don’t think he would do anything of the kind. Standing on the ship, 
you would naturally think we could get ashore ; it may have looked to 
him that we were right under the lee of the shore. It is very likely 
that he thought we could get ashore, and that he didn’t understand our 
signals. 

Question. Do you know if Captain Buddington ever got drunk ? 


63 


Answer. You want the truth ; I must answer you when you ask me. 
He did, both before and after Captain Hall’s death; oftener after than 
before. Captain Hall must have seen it on him several times. Captain 
Buddington came to me and wanted me to give him some liquor; he 
said he put a case in the store-room that was not on my list; so I went 
to Captain Hall and asked if he would be kind enough to put the liquor 
in the magazine. You ask Captain Hall anything, he would look at it 
in the right light. He did that, but that didn’t save it; he took it away 
and I didn’t have any more to do with it. 

Question. Did you ever see any of the other officers, except Captain 
Buddington, drunk ? 

Answer. No, sir; they used to drink, but I never saw them drunk. 
Captain Buddington, if he drinks at all, must get drunk. He drank 
whiskey while it lasted. I have seen him drink alcohol before we came 
away. There were several cases alcohol on board the ship. When I 
didn’t know where he got his drink from, I thought he must have been 
at the alcohol. I couldn’t dispute anything with the captain of the 
ship. 

Question. Do you know of any difficulty happening to the ship on ac¬ 
count of his being drunk ? 

Answer. When we got beset in the ice in 80° 11/, I think he was 
drunk on these nights, but it was not the drink’s fault that we got beset. 
He was not drunk when we parted from tbe ship ; I am pretty sure of 
that. I do not know of any dispute aboard the ship at any time. After 
Captain Hall died, Captain Buddington took command, and his com¬ 
mand was submitted to by everybody on board. I kept a record on the 
ice after we left the ship, every day, from the time we parted from the 
ship till we were picked up. That will tell the story better than I can 
tell it now. 

Question. Do you think the Polaris will come out all right ? 

Answer. Yes, sir; she is in very good winter-quarters; by next 
month will be making water. They have plenty provisions aboard. 
They have fewer people than we. There are fourteen men on 
board; we have sixteen. They have got rice; plenty of flour, 
enough to have fresh bread every day. They have about twenty- 
five tons of coal on board. Would not have enough to steam to Disco. 
Could steam over, no doubt, with the wind in their favor. Captain 
Tyson had command on the ice, but he never seemed to take much of 
a "lead. Everything seemed to' go along very well. Captain Tyson 
stopped with Joe and Hannah, and I saw r him very seldom. Hans and 
his family had a snow hut built for themselves. There was not a great 
deal of commanding on the ice. It was not wanted. When we didn’t 
do what he directed, it turned out wrong. (Exhibiting records.) These 
are the original records kept by me on the ice, three small books in lead- 
pencil, and these are copies which I have had made for convenience. The 
records were made from day to day on the ice, whenever I had an op- 
portunity. I made them every day. They give a detailed account of 
what happened to us until we were rescued. When I was separated 
from the Polaris everybody was well. Dr. Bessels was well. He had 
been in good health from the beginning. I never heard him complain, 
except from snow-blindness. Mr. Bryan had been in good health all the 
time. Very much respected on board the ship. Everybody liked him. 

Question. Do you think, barring accidents, there is any doubt of the 
ship’s coming out all right? 

Answer. I think she will. I said all along that I expected we might 
see her in New York or Washington when we got back. 


64 


JOHN W. C. KRUGER, SEAMAN, EXAMINED. 

Witness stated that on shipboard he was often addressed as Robert. 

I was born in Germany. I have lived in this country, but am not 
naturalized. Am twenty-nine years of age. I sailed in the Polaris from 
Washington. I remarked nothing of importance between New York 
and Disco. At Disco there was some grumbling in regard to the “ grub.” 
Rumors were afloat in the ship that Dr. Bessels, Mr. Meyer, Mr. Ches¬ 
ter, and the engineers, and Captain Buddington were about to leave the 
ship. There was some talk among the crew, but it amounted to noth¬ 
ing. We didn’t know at the time that it had attracted the attention of 
Captain Hall. I did not hear anything of it from Captain Buddington 
himself. It amounted to nothing after we left Disco. We were very 
well content. From Disco we went to Upernavik, and from there to 
Tessiusak, and thence we proceeded north, and in a couple of days 
sighted Cape York. We passed that evening Cape Athol. We saw a 
good many walruses. We set our course north along the Greenland 
coast as far, I believe, as Dr. Hayes’s winter-quarters, Port Foulke. We 
crossed the strait about this time to the west coast. We landed with 
our boat at Cape Frazer, but found it was too shallow water, and so 
proceeded on our way north. We passed Cape Constitution, Dr. Kane’s 
highest point. We steamed on north for a couple of days, and reached 
what was known as Kane’s Open Sea. We found a good deal of water, 
but on both sides land, forming a large bay. We went from there to 
latitude 82° 16'. We could see land on both sides of us farther north. 
We were beset there with ice, and took some of our provisions on the 
ice, in case we should have to leave the ship. I believe we were delayed 
two or three days on this floe. When the ice separated again we steamed 
south toward the east coast. We made our latitude 8l° 38', and Cap¬ 
tain Hall named the position Thank God Harbor, in Polaris Bay. The 
harbor was formed by an iceberg. It was a very poor harbor. We took 
provision out of the ship to the shore, and tried to secure our ship as 
well as possible. The ice soon set around ns, and we prepared to bank 
our ship. At that time Captain Hall started on a sledge journey. He 
was away fourteen days, and returned well and healthy. He was ac¬ 
companied by Mr. Chester, Hans, Joe, Captain Tyson, with two sledges. 
He seemed in good health on his return, but after he had been about an 
hour aboard he was reported sick, with rumors of apoplexy. I think I 
did not see him while sick, but only after his death, in his coffin. We 
were very sorry when he died, because Captain Hall had been very kind 
to us, and with him all order and command in the ship died, too. Cap¬ 
tain Buddington took command. During the winter I was engaged with 
the tide observations, and don’t know much of affairs in the ship. I was 
with Hermann Simmons, another member of the crew, now on board the 
Polaris. I made these tidal observations first at Dr. Bessels’s orders; 
afterwards at Captain Buddington’s. I performed this duty until the 
1st of May. I made the observations about fifty yards from the ship. 
An accurate record was kept. The highest tide that I noticed was 7 
feet 8 inches at spring-tide. The lowest neap tide was about 2 feet. In 
May I was taken from this duty, and was put to work at the boats, 
marking the lead lines. Nothing further occurred on board ship until 
we set out with the boats north. I was in Mr. Chester’s boat. Two 
boats went north ; Mr. Chester in commaud of one, and Captain Tyson 


65 


of the other. After we had been about three days absent from the ship, 
we were unfortunate enough to lose our boat. We saved nothing but 
our lives, and our boat was completely smashed to pieces. The acci¬ 
dent happened about 9 miles from the ship, and we soon got back to the 
ship again. Then Mr. Chester inquired of the boat’s crew, whether we 
would be willing to go with the patent canvas boat. We went with our 
canvas boat as far north as possible. I believe it was latitude 81° 51/ 
26", in the mouth of Newman’s Bay, where we had to lie on the ice. 
We could not reach the shore. We could recognize Cape Union about 
35 miles distant, on the west coast. On the other side we found a cape 
which Captain Hall named Cape Brevoort. He was as far as that on 
his sledge journey, I heard afterward. The ice that we saw was very 
much built up, and we did not see any chance of getting through with 
our boats. The straits were completely blocked by the ice. I don’t 
exactly know how long we laid in Newman’s Bay. Mr. Chester ex¬ 
pressed the wish that we should have more provisions. We had very 
little—only about a month’s provisions. Hermann Simmons and I started 
for the ship to get more provisions. It was about 22 miles to the ship. 
We found her in open water, and in a very leaky condition. Captain 
Buddington wanted to keep us aboard, and didn’t want us to return. 
After we had been about two hours aboard, the Polaris steamed north 
to try and reach the boats, but could not get so far. We laid right 
over in the straits drifting. Next morning we landed Hans, with a let¬ 
ter for Mr. Chester to come aboard immediately with his boats. Hans 
went up, and they returned with Dr. Bessels. The rest of the party re¬ 
mained in Newman’s Bay. We tried to make our way during the night 
north again. Ice stopped us, and we had to return south. Dr. Bessels 
said to Captain Buddington that he was not able to work his boat with¬ 
out his men. So we left next day with provisions, and the letter for 
Mr. Chester. This letter was given afterward, by Mr. Chester, to Cap¬ 
tain Tyson. When he had sent the letter, and ascertained that the lat¬ 
ter was in a very poor condition, he returned to the ship from the land. 
He left the boat in Newman’s Bay, and returned to the shore from the 
land, with his crew. We laid over some days, lingering, to see if we 
could get a chance to get north ; but it was of no use; the ice was very 
bad; and then Mr.Chester made up his mind to return. We rolled our 
boat on the same place where the other boat was lying, and returned to 
the ship. The ship was pumped until that time by steam ; but after we 
got on board we set our deck-pumps to work and pumped her by hand. 
She made considerable water, and after having been aground, made 
much more. The ship was hurt in the following manner: In the latter 
part of November it set in a heavy gale; we were near the iceberg, in 
Polaris Bay. We dropped our second anchor, but, notwithstanding, 
got listed on Providence Iceberg, as Captain Hall called it. Later we 
got our ship farther on the berg, and the ice being very strong, we could 
do little with it. After it seemed that the foot of the iceberg was far 
under the ship ; she raised up high out of the water with it, and at last 
it broke her. We tried all we could to stop the leak, but could not do 
much with it. On the 12th of August, 1872, we set out for the south 
with our ship, but didn’t get very far, and we had to make fast to the 
ice in latitude 80° 2'. We fastened to the floe because there was no 
water to the southward. We worked south as well as we could. We 
were beset in latitude 80° 2'. This was the first observation made by 
Mr. Bryan. We then anchored fast to the ice-floe. We could not get 
out, for the ice was too close, until the 15th of October, but drifted along 
on this floe. We had built a house on the ice in case of accident; and 

5 P 


66 


also put out eleven and a half boxes of bread. Our provisions were 
already on deck, so that we might cast them on the ice. The 15tli of 
October it blew a very heavy gale from the S.E., and our ship was veiy 
heavily pressed by ice. Captain Buddington found it necessary to 
transfer the provisions to the ice. Half the crew remained on board to 
put them over the side ; the other half were on the ice. When most of 
the provisions from the deck had been thrown on the ice, the pressure 
on the vessel ceased and she righted. Shortly afterward the ice 
cracked, and the floe on which we were broke in several pieces. On the 
small pieces were left most of our provisions. Soon afterward the 
ship drifted away from us to the north. The ice-anchor remained in the 
floe. We could not tell whether the hawser had broken or slipped. 
After the ship had got away we tried to save the provisions. We could, 
however, save but little. We expected next day that we should get on 
board of the ship again. Next morning we could not see the ship. Cap¬ 
tain Tyson proposed to go with the boats and provisions toward the ship. 
Soon afterward we put our boats to water, and tried to pull them to¬ 
ward the shore, but did not get. far. We then saw a vessel steaming 
toward us, and didn’t give ourselves further trouble, because we sup¬ 
posed the vessel coming to take us otf. We hoisted a blanket on an 
oar, and supposed we had attracted attention. The vessel was about 
four miles distant. We saw her steaming in toward a bay on North¬ 
umberland Island. She was under steam and canvas. She seemed to 
be all right. There was about fifteen tons of coal on her when we left. 
I thought, if Captain Buddington had seen us, he probably would have 
come and taken us off. At the same time a heavy gale sprung up from 
the north, and the ice started with us and drifted south. We tried once 
more to reach the shore with our boats. I should judge the ship about 
two and a half hours in sight. Then she steamed behind the island. 
We afterward got sight of her between the island and the main land. 

I cannot tell whether she was then at anchor, but supposed her so, as 
her sails were down. We tried once more to reach the shore, but were 
turned by the drifted ice back on the floe. The next day we were sepa¬ 
rated from one of our boats, when the floe broke in several pieces. On the 
first of November, or latter part of October, we tried once more to reach 
shore with both our boats. We transported them about four miles, and 
damaged them pretty badly with ice, and next morniug found that 
we could not transfer our stock in one day, and we had to remain on 
that floe with our boats during the night. Next morning the-ice was 
broken up, and we could not get the stuff that was left behind us. We 
then drifted south, aud several times sighted land, until the 30th of 
April, when we were picked up by the Tigress. I kept a record on 
the shore and on the ice. I lost the record that I kept on board 
N the ship. I have here a record, kept on the ice; it is written in Ger¬ 
man. It records what happened on the ice from day to day. I have 
also a book of records kept by Hermann Simmons, which I picked up on 
the ice among his clothes, which had been thrown overboard. It is a 
record of the voyage of the Polaris, from the time we left New York 
until the 12th of October, three days before we separated. I know this 
to be his book f om his name in it, and because I saw him writing it on 
board the Polaris. I think its statements are correct. We were inti¬ 
mate friends, and used to write our books together. Here is another 
book which was picked up on the ice by William Jackson, the cook, and 
given to me. It seems to be a memorandum-book by Mr. Morton. 
While we were in winter quarters, in Polaris Bay, we did not do a great 
deal of hunting and fishing, but in the spring there was a great deal of 


67 


hunting done, there being twenty-nine of us. The scientific men made 
observations. Mr. Bryan took astronomical observations. In the 
spring, Dr. Bessels, Mr. Prln, Hans, and Joe, made sled expeditions 
to the south, On the sled expedition to Newman's Bay, we found 
considerable driftwood on the southern shore. Altogether, there 
were picked up twenty-four pieces. The correct statement will 
be given in Simmons’s book. It was principally pieces of two feet 
long and round, the limbs of trees, and a good deal larger than any 
vegetation in that latitude. I don’t know the kind of wood. There 
was a good deal of slate rock ; I did not know the other kinds. There 
was not a great deal of snow on the land in the summer time, except 
in the ravines. The sun was hot. When I made a trip from the ship 
back to the boats with provisions, I slept on the top of a mountain. 
The sun was shining brightly at midnight, and it was very warm. On 
Cape Luptou we found pieces of a sledge ; at Polaris Bay we found 
signs of Esquimaux huts, and also a broken spear. The scientific men 
gathered a good many specimens of all kinds of animal life there. The 
birds that were shot, Dr. Lefford took charge of and stuffed. I never 
heard of anything wrong concerning Captain Hall’s death. I never 
knew of Captain Hall having any difficulty with anybody on board. I 
didn’t see him when he was sick. I heard reports from Captain Hall’s 
clerk that, while he was sick, he was afraid Captain Buddington 
would shoot him ; but that was while he was delirious. I never saw 
any of the officers of the ship drunk, though it was reported it was 
often the case. I heard that Captain Buddington was drunk, from 
Joe, the Esquimaux. This he said, before all hands, 011 the night 
that we were crushed by the iceberg in Polaris Bay; but I never 
saw any of it myself. When we were floating down I did not be¬ 
lieve there was any liquor on board after that, unless it was alcohol. 
There was very good discipline as long as Captain Hall was alive, and 
he was very kind to us and was liked by his crew. Not only did the 
expedition lose a commander in him, but we were heavy losers in all 
regards. After that there was not much discipline; very few orders 
were given; every man seemed to look out for himself. 1 believe if 
Captain Hall had lived we would have got very far north, for every 
man of the crew would have been willing to have gone with him wliere- 
ever he went. After he died there never was much effort to get north ; 
the main object seemed to be to get out. After we had reached the 
highest point, and when we first stopped, latitude 82° 1G', and were 
driven back by the gale; after the gale there was considerable open 
water to the north. If we had pushed on then, though we could not, 
perhaps, have made a due north course, we could have got through the 
ice, as we did afterward in coming south. 1 don’t know, myself, why 
we didn’t push on north. I didn’t know, myself, of any difficulty be¬ 
tween any of the scientific men and Captain Hall; that is, not after we 
left Disco. I cannot say whether Captain Hall had any difficulty with 
Captain Buddiugton at Disco. I believe that the ship will not be able 
to get down without assistance, because she had very little coal. She 
was left, however, not far from Etah, an Esquimaux summer settle¬ 
ment. The ship is in latitude 77° 35'. She has sails, but could not get 
through the ice with them. When we separated from the ship all on 
board were well. While floating down we were on one floe for five 
months. This large floe was very steady, even in a gale. When the 
floe was broken up into smaller pieces, the sea would toss the ice about. 
When the ice was in large pieces, it was a good deal jammed together, 
and the sea had no chance to make. I believe we were better off on 


68 


the ice tliau if we were on the land, because we floated steadily south, 
got earlier light and earlier spring, besides getting nearer home. We 
also had a chance to catch seals, upon which we lived. We were very 
short of food until we began to catch seals. They have plenty of pro¬ 
visions on board the ship; their great difficulty will be the absence of 
boats and want of coal. Another difficulty is that the natives are not 
with them to hunt for fresh meat. They may, however, communicate 
with the natives on the main land. Captain Hall used often to ask us 
if we would live on raw meat, as he himself did during his lifetime. We 
told him we could live on what he did. We did not try it, however, 
while he lived, but when we got on the ice we soon found we could live 
very well on raw meat. Eaw meat gives the body more animal heat. I 
have seen Captain Hall eat raw meat from choice. 


\ 


6*9 


FREDERICK JAMKA EXAMINED. 

Born in Prussia; twenty-three years of age; seaman. I joined the 
Polaris at New York. I know of nothing of importance till the vessel 
reached Disco. There was at Disco a little trouble among the officers; 
I don’t know exactly what it was about. I mean by the officers the men 
who lived aft. The trouble was, I believe, between Mr. Meyer and 
Captain Hall. I understood that Captain Hall asked Mr. Meyer to 
keep a book for him, and Mr. Meyer refused. Captain Buddington was 
always quarreling, declaring his intention to leave at every port; coming 
forward and talking among the men at every port; but I never saw him 
make any attempt to leave. The row was settled at Disco by Cap¬ 
tain Hall before the Congress left. From Disco we went to Upernavik, 
and from there to Tessiusak, and from there toward the north. We 
went up on the Greenland side to Port Foulke, where we crossed to the 
opposite side. Then we followed up the west shore to a cape, of which 
I don’t know the name. We stopped, and Captain Hall went on shore. 
Captain Tyson came on deck, and asked Captain Buddington what Cap¬ 
tain Hall had gone on shore for. Captain Buddington asked Tyson if he 
expected to go any farther north than that. Then Captain Hall came on 
board, and we started on our journey north. We went to about latitude 
82°, but could find no winter quarters, and then came back to where the 
vessel was jammed, and there made winter quarters. We took some 
provisions out on the ice, for fear we should have to leave the vessel. 
After some days the ice broke up again, and we steamed up to Polaris 
Bay, and lay there at an anchor, and the next day steamed up a little 
farther on the coast to find a better place to lay. We took provisions 
out on the ice, put up an observatory, &c. Captain Hall then went to 
the north with Mr. Chester, Hans, and Joe; they were away about a 
fortnight, and then came back, all in good health. We were banking 
the ship. Captain Hall shook hands all round, went aboard, got some 
coffee, and ordered some for us, and we went about our business again. 
The next day he was taken sick. He was sick, I believe, about 13 or 14 
days; I learned of his sickness from the officers. I saw him once while he 
was sick, during church service in the cabin. Once we sent a man aft to 
inquire after Captain Hall’s health. He returned and said Captain Hall 
was pretty bad; not in his right mind. He died either at midnight or 
early in the morning. One of the men went aft in the morning and met 
Captain Buddington. The captain said, u Well, Henry, there is a stone 
off my heart.” Henry said, “ Why so?” u Why, Captain Hall is dead.” 
We did not like that very well. After a few days we buried him, a short 
half mile from the ship. Then Captain Buddington took command, and 
we finished our banking around the ship, and went into winter quarters. 
As far as my opinion goes, I think Captain Hall died a natural death. 
Captain Buddington made fun of Captain Hall a good many times 
among the men. Captain Buddington was very friendly to Captain Hall 
till his back was turned. Captain Buddington was drunk very often. 
Captain Hall was a good man and a strict man, and wanted every man 
to keep his place. Anybody that did that could get along with him. 
At one time a consultation of officers was held aft. I saw them stand 
together. Captain Buddington did not want to go farther north, and 
he told Captain Hall he had better not go farther. So Captain Hall 
had a consultation about it. Captain Hall asked the opinions of all. 


70 


Captain Buddington bad no reason for not wanting to go farther. At 
the time of the consultation there was slack ice to the north, so that the 
vessel could steam farther. Captain Buddington then said among the 
crew, 11 Whoever wants to go north, let them go, but I won’t.” We were 
pretty comfortable in our winter quarters. We had a hole cut through 
the ice to make tidal observations every hour, and sometimes every 
few minutes, through the winter. The scientific people were in the 
observatory at work. In the month of November we had a heavy gale, 
and the ice broke up. The gale lasted, I believe, for forty-eight hours. 
In the morning pretty early the man said he could not make tidal 
observations. Soon the ice broke up. A short time after the ice broke 
up, and we drifted alongside of a berg to the starboard. When it cleared 
up we looked out and saw the berg. Volunteers went up and made 
fast an anchor to the berg. After that we got the wind from the south¬ 
west, and the ice being pretty stout inside of us, and the berg shoving 
in on us, jammed us pretty hard, the vessel heeling over and lying on her 
beam-ends. There was a heavy pressure upon us, making the vessel’s 
beams crack. The line we had fast forward one of the men tried to 
slack, because we were afraid of the berg. Captain Buddington came 
forward, feeling his way. He was drunk. He ordered, “ Don’t slack 
that line.” In a little while he said, “ You may go below ; the ship is 
all right.” After some time we went out on the ice, and had a look at the 
vessel. The vessel seetned all right. By and by I asked Joe, “ Where 
is Captain Buddington ?” Joe said, “ Captain Buddington is asleep ; 
very drunk.” Joe fetched along a couple of barrels of seal-clothing, 
and Hans took some clothes and his whole family to the observatory, 
Avhere Mr. Meyer was. They remained off the ship till next day. 
The officers and men forward wanted to saw the ice away and pull 
the vessel off the berg, but Captain Buddington would not do anything. 
The vessel was then lying on her beam-ends on the berg. Captain Bud 
dington, after a while, gave orders to dig holes in the ice, and try to 
blast the ice with powder, but we could not do it. I said to Captain 
Buddington, u I think we can prevent the vessel lying over in this way. 
We can take ice-tackles and pull the vessel up straight, so that the ice 
shall make under her, and let the vessel set straight.” In the spring the 
ice commenced to melt on top. We found that planks on both sides 
four feet above the stem w r ere split. We took the sheet-iron off, calked 
it up w r here it was split open, and nailed the iron on again. She had 
rested on the foot of the berg all winter. The berg had grounded, and 
when the berg floated with the tide, the vessel floated with it. 1 don’t 
think a better ship could be built for the purpose. The only fault I could 
see w T ith her was, that she was not a good sailer. She went ahead well with 
the wind abaft. Not many ships could stand what she did. The Po¬ 
laris went against a piece of ice like one berg going against another. 
In the month of July the expedition in boats was made to the north¬ 
ward. We started from Cape Lupton at a favorable opportunity. I 
was in the boat with Mr. Chester. We launched our boat and started; 
made a little distance, when the drift-ice made us haul up on the ice. 
We transported our boat over the ice, and launched it on the other 
side; then made another distance, and had to haul the boat up 
again. There we put up for the night. During the night we w r ere 
aroused suddenly by the floe coming in upon us. Mr. Meyer and 
Mr. Chester were separated from us and went toward the shore. 
The piece of ice which held the boat was mounted by another, 
and we lost the boat. We saved some clothes, chronometer, &e. 
We found some drift-wood at Newman’s Bay, on the southeast shore. I 


71 


found a piece about two feet long and six inches in diameter; I do not 
know of what kind of wood. Several similar pieces were found. I think 
it was a branch of a tree. I found it on the beach about one hundred 
yards from the water, probably washed up there by the sea in the spring 
tide. There were no marks of tools upon it. After a while they sent for 
us to come back to the ship. We found that she had broken out, and 
made considerable water. The leak was forward where we had repaired 
her. You could see the water spouting in at about the six-foot mark. The 
deck-pump was going. After a while the leak was stopped a little. We 
had thought forward it was needless to use the deck-pump, and thus 
waste coal. No effort was made to stop the leak. Captain Buddington 
would not accept our suggestions for doing so. Before we started on 
our journey to the northward, Captain Buddington said, “I guess when 
you come back you won’t find the ship here.” We did not care, for we 
did not expect to find the ship there, but that she would go south, and we 
expected to go south in the boats. While Captain Hall lived we had 
good discipline. After he died everything went backward. We steamed 
to the southward. Sometimes we laid for a day tied to a big piece of ice, 
continuing to drift to the south. After we passed Kensselaer Harbor, 
the pack we were fast to brought up against the Greenland shore, and 
the vessel was heeled over on her beam. Captain Buddington gave 
orders to heave the stuff over. Some of the party jumped on the ice to 
take the provision away from the ship. After a while I saw the ice 
slack off. I sung out to Mr. Chester that the lines were getting slack. 
He hauled the lines taut. We started to transport the provisions 
farther from the ship, and thought it was rather careless to be on the 
ice without boats. I sang out to Captain Buddiugton to lower the 
boats. I sang out for a dozen times. By and by he answered, and 
lowered the aft and then the forward boat, and we pulled them to our 
side. Hans’s little girl laid down on her skin by the boat. All at 
once we heard a crack under the boat. At the same time the 
vessel’s stern swung off. Captain Buddington sung out to haul 
the boats up on the higher ice, and take care of them. I helped the lit¬ 
tle girl over the crack. All at once the line slacked, and off the ship 
weut. Captain Buddington sang out, “ Take care of the boats, and I 
will take care of the ship.” The next morning we saw a good deal of 
water around our floe. We started with our boats, and tried to get in 
shore; but half way from the shore we had to pull the boats up on the 
ice. In a little while I saw the vessel. All looked and said, “ Yes, 
that is the vessel.” She was off 18 miles, and was coming down very 
fast. We were very glad to observe she was coming to us. We put 
up an oar, with an India-rubber blanket, to attract her attention. 
When about 4 miles from us we could see the ship steam in shore, and 
pass to the northward of the island. We all felt pretty bad, 
and we thought the best thing was to try to get to her. We 
pulled the boat about half the distance, and got it into the 
water; but the drift-ice prevented us advancing. We then 
went back to the other boat where our provisions, &c., were. In 
the morning wje found that the boat we had left, and six boxes of 
bread, were gone. We remained ou this piece a couple of days, when 
one morning we recovered the boat we had lost, provisions, &c. We 
lost a considerable amount of provisions in attempting to get ashore, 
and afterward concluded to remain where we were, and not risk losing- 
all that we had. We were then on the original floe, and w'e staid on 
this and its pieces till the first of April. We then took to our boats, 
and worked our way toward shore. Whenever we got a chance to go 


72 


westward we did so. When we could not get through the ice we re¬ 
mained on the best piece we could find. We got on one large floe which 
was brokeu up under us, the sea sweeping over it, and we had hard 
flnrk to keep the boat and ourselves on the floe. The sea would sweep 
over the floe, bringing with it large blocks of ice, aiid we had to fight 
with these through the whole night. We thus worked our way 
slowly to the westward toward shore. We were often scant of pro¬ 
visions, but when we could get to clear water we got a good many seals. 
One day, about the 20th of April, we had about a quarter of a pound of 
bread left, and we made up our minds to come to the seal skins, but on 
that day we caught the bear. The bear was a short distauce off. Joe dis¬ 
covered him from the top of a hummock. We all kept quiet, and laid down, 
so that the animal should not see us. We left it to Joe to watch him and 
try to shoot him. Joe did so, and killed him. We got a line round his 
neck and pulled him to us. It was about the best supper I ever had in 
my life. We were picked up the last of April, in the morning, about 20 
minutes to 5. A few of us were in the boat, and a few of us outside, be¬ 
cause there was not room for all in the boat. In the morning I saw the sail. 
Joe and Hans were asleep. I called them, and they assisted me to attract 
the attention of the steamer in the distance. We sang out to her, and fired 
our pistols, and Joe and Hans their guns, and put up a flag on our boat’s 
mast. Then the vessel came toward us. Hans went to her with the kyak. 
It was foggy, and once I lost sight of the vessel. Then it cleared up, and 
the vessel came close to us. We gave three cheers, and they returned 
them from the vessel. We launched onr boat and went aboard. The 
first thing we asked for was a pipe and tobacco. We were not hungry, 
having had plenty of seal-meat the day before. On board they gave us 
some coffee and clean clothes. The Esquimaux families were at first 
taken and put to sleep among all the men, but the captain finally 
gave them a place by themselves. We were sick after coming on board ; 
had skin-disease and coughs. Hannah was particularly bad. 1 have 
no doubt but our separation from the Polaris was purely accidental. 
However, if Captain Buddington had sent somebody to fasten the bow¬ 
line more securely, the line would have held. I think if there had been 
any boat on board the ship, she would have come to us the next day, as 
the ice was drifting in our direction, and she had steam and canvas to 
help her. My theory is that the vessel had got a big leak during the 
night, and therefore they did not dare to come to us, but could only 
make for the shore. I do not think the vessel will be able to come out 
without assistance. She only had thirteen or fourteen tons of coal 
aboard when we left her—just enough to last her for the winter. 


EXAMINATION OF GUSTAYUS W. LINDQUIST. 

Was seaman on board tlie Polaris; am 26 years old; I was born at 
Stockholm. I joined the Polaris at Washington and sailed with her. 
Nothing of importance happened between Washington and Disco. At 
Disco there was a little misunderstanding betweeii Captain Hall and 
his officers. I did not know it for certain. I don’t know whether it was 
in the scientific corps or sailing department. Captain Davenport came 
on board, spoke to the crew, and bid us all good-bye, and also Dr. New¬ 
man. I heard of no disturbance after that. From Disco we sailed to 
Upernavik, thence to Tussuisak, and thence steamed north. I did 
not keep any record of the voyage. In coming through what I under¬ 
stood to be Melville Bay, we found some ice. A little further to the 
north we found open water again, and then again a little ice, till we got 
as far as Cape Alexandria, and, at Cape Hatherton, open water as far 
as the eye could reach. That night we steered otf to the west, and 
were the next morning off what I believe to be Cape Frazier. We then 
steamed north again, and encountered some ice, very slack, and from 
there we found open water to the north, through Kennedy Channel to 
Cape Constitution. We advanced the whole of that night, and the 
next day found foggy weather, and hove the lead, but with no sound¬ 
ings. Toward noon it cleared oil', and we steamed on again. We 
steamed a good ways through Robeson Channel. The weather was misty, 
and we could not see a great way. Then we turned back for winter 
quarters. At the time we turned back I came on deck at 8 o’clock. It 
was my first look-out, and I relieved the man at the cross-trees. They had 
steamed back then two hours. About 10 o’clock we were beset in the 
ice. We got away from there again, and got in toward the Greenland 
coast, and Captain Hall looked again for winter quarters, but there was no 
place. There was here a heavy current. This was to the north of New¬ 
man’s Bay. Then we got out and got fast in the ice, and drifted south, 
I don’t know how many days, till the weather cleared up, and we made ice 
to the east of us, and a big iceberg as a shelter, called by Captain Hall 
Providence Berg, for our winter quarters. We named the place Thank 
God Harbor. There we put provisions ashore, changing their position 
afterward to the top of the hill. We were just through when Captain 
Hall started on his sledge journey. During his absence we were en¬ 
gaged banking the ship up on all sides. When he came back he shook 
hands all around; lie looked very well. I looked particularly to see if 
the weather had had any effect upon him. We had thought the weather 
rough for Captain Hall and his party while they were out; I did not 
observe any signs on Captain Hall; I did see him again before his death. 
I heard he was out of his mind; I heard the disease called apoplexy. 
When Captain Hall departed on his journey, the weather was four 
degrees below zero. Captain Hall died on the 8th of November. We 
buried him on the 11th. We were two days digging his grave. I be¬ 
lieve he died a natural death ; 1 never had any other belief. If I had 
any other belief, I would speak it out. I know there were men around 
that did not like him, and whom he did not like, but, at the same time, 
I believe he died a natural death. I do not think he was very fond of any 
of the scientific department, except Mr. Bryan. Mr. Bryan was liked by 


74 


everybody in the ship. Everything in the ship we were fold to do we 
did. I know of no open difficulty. There was good discipline while 
Captain Hall lived, but we put discipline along with him in his grave; 
but there was no mutiny or difficulty of that kind. Captain Hall 
had divine service every Sunday, and every morning after we got 
into winter quarters; that ended after his death. Captain Bud- 
dington then took command. During the winter nothing particular 
happened till the 27th of November, when the ship got adrift. 
When I came out on the deck I saw the ship loose. It was very dark. 
I had no boots on my feet, and went back into the forecastle. I said, 
“Boys, we are going to have something.” I put my boots on, and I 
was going out to save the boats on the ice. Auotlier man came down 
and said the boats were adrift. When Captain Buddington heard she 
was adrift, he ordered the other anchor to be let go, but he found there 
was no strain on the chain. Captain Tyson tried to discover the berg, 
but there being a heavy snow drifting, and the berg being white, it was 
not to be seen, although we were within twenty feet of it. When Cap¬ 
tain Buddington found we were alongside of the berg, we made lines fast 
to it. The next day the weather moderated toward evening. We could 
then have got out lines and have got back into the same place, but 
there was nothing of that kind done. Then we had a calm and very 
cold weather, and it froze and formed young ice between us and the 
shore. After that there came a southerly gale, with a heavy pack of 
ice, and shoved the berg, so that its foot came under the ship. There 
she lay all winter on the foot of this berg, rising .and falling with the 
tide. There was nothing of importance during the winter. We had 
heavy northeasterly gales. Two or three hours after every gale we 
could see open water to the southeast of us. Toward twilight we used 
to go out to Cape Lupton. There we used always to see open water. 
We reported to the officers that we had seen open water. We thought 
that we should have some chance in the spring to go north in boats. 
When spring came our path was all blocked up by the ice. In the 
month of March the doctor started on the sledge journey to the south. 
Mr. Bryan and the two Esquimaux went with him. In the month of 
April the two Esquimaux went out hunting by themselves and shot 
seven musk-oxen. After that Mr. Chester started out. He was away 
two days. He shot two musk-oxen. During this month we were pre¬ 
paring our boats to go north. In the month of May we could not do 
anything. We could not work the sledge over the ice because it was 
on the move, nor the boat through it. In the month of June we started, 
but the first boat got smashed up. Mr. Chester had charge of that 
boat. Mr. Tyson had charge of my boat. We got twenty miles from 
Cape Lupton, where we started, and then had to pull the boat up. This 
was at the mouth of Newman’s Bay. We remained there about a week, 
till Mr. Chester came up from the ship. To the northward was heavy 
ice. Close in shore there was a channel leading to the ship, but to the 
north nothing but a packed mass of ice. After Mr. Chester got to New¬ 
man’s Bay with his boat we laid for about a month. Mr. Meyer and 
Dr. Bessels took observations. I did not see any drift-wood at this 
time, but after we had gone to the ship and abandoned the boat, some 
of us returned for the lost property, and then I saw drift-wood. It had 
been gathered on the beach by the other men. In Polaris Bay we found 
an Esquimaux sledge-runner, and traces of Esquimaux. We found that 
Esquimaux had lived there. When we got back to the ship all hands 
were put at the pumps to save coal. We used only the donkey-pumps, 
and kept her free with ease. We pumped for a few months every hour. 


75 


We laid there till the 13th of August, when we started to go south. We 
left here, ashore, by accident, a Newfoundland dog, one of the best dogs 
we had. We were very sorry to lose him. After leaving Polaris Bay 
we got as far south as latitude 80° 2', where we were beset by the ice. 
We made two or three attempts to get through and steam south, but 
we could not get through. We lay beset in the ice till the loth of Octo¬ 
ber, when we had a gale from “the south for four days. Toward morn¬ 
ing it moderated. On one side of the floe we were made fast to 
was young ice, but this young ice, which broke up, was replaced by 
heavy ice, which came up against us, and the ship forced over on 
her side. When the ice pressed, her timbers began to crack, and 
everybody was in a panic. Captain Buddington himself gave the orders 
to heave the provisions on the ice, and “Work for your lives, boys!” 
After getting all the provisions out on theice, theiceoutsideof usslacked 
up, and the ship got upon her keel. The last thing I did in the ship 
was to shove a big molasses barrel out on the ice. Then I went into 
the forecastle to look after my clothes-bag. Our clothes bags were 
always kept ready packed for emergencies. 1 had, however, just taken 
something out of mine, and I wanted to replace it before I started on 
the ice, but I could not find it. 1 then went up, and stood at the gang¬ 
way of the ship, and started to go on the ice, on which the provisions 
were placed. About two fathoms of small ice intervened, and I could 
not get out to the clothes-bags. The rest of the men were out working, 
and Captain Buddington said, “ I don’t see any need of you out there 
now.” I said, “ I would like to get at my clothes-bag.” “Well,” he 
said, “ go ahead.” The bow line was taut, so I took this means to get 
out on the ice. After I had been two minutes on the ice it broke up, 
and the piece which held me and most of the provisions went off. The 
most of the provisions was on one piece of the ice, and the boat and 
Hans’s family were over one of the cracks. It was widening out, and 
we were just attempting to get the boats and Hans’s family off when 
the ship got away. We could not tell for certain how the ship got 
away. If the line had broken there should have been a piece left in the 
anchor, but there was none. The ship was at this time going fast, and 
if we had attempted to get to the ship we should have drowned. If we 
had had a line from the ship’s side! might have'made an attempt to 
get it to her. I could not see anybody on the ship, but I heard Captain 
Buddington’s voice crying, “ Stay where you areand the last word we 
heard him say was something about the bow line. I think if any one 
had attempted to get to the ship from the piece I was on, they would 
have drowued among the loose ice between us and the ship. Captain 
Tyson then launched the scow, and tried to come to our floe, but the 
scow was swamped. Then he launched the boat, and came and took us 
to the big floe, where were the rest, with the provisions we saved. Then 
we piled our stock together as well as we could, and turned in on some 
skins and clothing. My clothes-bag was not to be found, but we found 
other clothes-bags, so all had enough through the winter. We found 
the clothes-bag of Joe Mauch, Henry Hoppy, Herman Simmins, Noah 
Hayes, and Walter Campbell, fireman. These bags did not contain all 
the clothing of the men, only that part which had been put in the bags 
to be thrown on the ice in case of accident. There was more clothing 
on board the ship, and, besides, every man that was on the ice had left 
some of his own clothing in the ship. Next morning we tried to get 
ashore, but had to stop before we reached it. We saw the ship steam¬ 
ing down. We thought she was coming down to us. She was under 
steam and canvas. We set up an India-rubber blanket on the ice to 


attract attention. After we bad been in this place for about an hour, 
we found the floe we were on to be going south rapidly. Toward after¬ 
noon the part of the floe we were on went out from the shore, and 
left a piece of open water between us and the shore. Captain 
Tyson proposed we should get ashore with our boat. We launched 
our boat. We had only three oars and no rudder. It did not 
look as if we should get ashore. Night coming on, we left this 
boat on the edge of the floe. Next morning the floe broke up, and 
the boat got away from us and was absent four or five days. After¬ 
ward we picked it up. After trying three times to get ashore, and leaving 
one of our boats and canvas house on the small piece of ice, we finally 
got back to the main floe on the first day of November. About eight 
days after we fell in with the piece and got back our boat, with the can¬ 
vas house and the provisions it contained. The wood of the house we 
saved and brought to the floe we were on. We floated on this till the 
first of April. On the first of March it had broken up into smaller 
pieces, but left us the piece on which we had built our snow-houses, and 
we still lived on that piece. We had built four snow-houses, and lived 
in them during the winter. About the first of April we abandoned this 
floe and started to work in toward shore. We worked whenever we got 
a chance. When we could not make any progress we got on as large a 
piece of ice as we could find. We lived largely on seals, which were 
killed by the Esquimaux who were with us. If it had not been for Joe, 
who is a great hunter, we would have been badly off. Hans tried to do 
all he could, but he was not the man Joe was. On the night between 
the 19th and 20th of April, a gale was evidently blowing somewhere, 
from the heavy swell it produced with us. The sea came clear over us. 
once the boat was washed off the floe, but we all clung to it, and while 
doing so I could feel nothing under my feet, and thought we should 
drown. Then we pulled the boat up and made it fast to the small piece 
of ice. Tow r ard morning a little piece of ice came floating by, and 
Captain Tyson said we had better get on that piece. It was a very 
small piece, but strong enough to hold us, and floated easier on the sea. 
The next day we had eight or nine biscuits for the whole nineteen of us. 
This was w hen we caught the bear. We had got one in the month of 
March, but this came just in time to relieve us. Joe killed him. Of the 
seals we got during the winter we ate all. We threw away nothing. 
After that we had rainy weather for four days, and every one of us 
suffered. The rainy w eather seemed harder on us than the cold. We 
were picked up by the Tigress on the 30th of April, and brought to 
Bay Roberts, and then to Saint John’s. No one was drowned when the 
ship went adrift. All on the ice were saved, for I was the last one that 
left the ship. The ship did not leak at that time more than she had for 
a considerable period before. I saw the ship next day. We thought 
she was intending to come for us, but she did not. I think they could 
not have failed to see us, because they had the mast-head to see from ; 
but I don’t know whether the condition of the ship was such that they 
could have done so. They might have thought it was easier for us to 
get to them. I don’t think the ship will be able to get out without help, 
because she has little coal, and under canvas she cannot pass through 
the ice. I think the parting between us and the ship purely accidental, 
but if they saw us the next day, and whether Captain Buddington was 
careless about getting us again, I cannot tell. I saw Captain Budding- 
ton drunk once in Kennedy Channel. That was the night we were 
beset in the ice, in 80° 2'. He showed it by speaking loud and giving 
improper orders. The next morning he had some w ords with Hr. Bes¬ 
sels. I did not keep a record. 


77 


WILLIAM LINDERMAN, SEAMAN, EXAMINED. 

Born in Germany; 23 years of age; joined the ship at New York. 
From Disco we went to Pinacle, where we stopped couple days. 
From there to Proven, to get Hans’s family of Esquimaux. From there 
we went to Tessiusak to get seal skins to make clothing of. Then went 
up Smith’s Sound; we came over to the west coast, where we landed 
with a boat to find a place for winter quarters, but steamed up again, 
and through Smith’s Sound, into Kennedy Channel. A little above 
82° we landed again, trying to make winter harbor. The ship was 
then in latitude 82° 16', as reported from the scientific corps. We were 
stuck in the ice, and drifted down into Polaris Bay, where we had our 
winter quarters. The ice came in on us, and we had to put provisions 
on the floe. We landed provisions in our boats, for some days,until the 
ice formed and was strong enough to bear our weight. When we had 
the provisions landed, we took the observatory ashore ; it was a little 
four-cornered house, the frame brought from New York. Having set 
it up, we had to shift the provisions higher on the ice, so the snow would 
not cover them. Soon after this Captain Hall went a sledge journey to 
the north. He was absent about fourteen days. On the outward trip, 
a day or two from the ship, they shot a musk-ox. They buried the 
meat in the snow, and brought it aboard the ship when they came back. 
Captain Hall, and the men with him, were all healthy and well when 
they came aboard the ship. We were all outside, banking the ship. He 
came up to every one, shook hands, and asked how we were getting 
along. He then went into the cabin. Next morning it was reported 
that Captain Hall was sick. I didn’t see him until the next Sunday, 
when I came into the cabin for church; he looked very sickly, but didn’t 
say a word. That was the last I saw of him alive. Captain Budding- 
ton came forward to tell the carpenter (whose name was Coffin, I think) 
to come and help make the coffin. When the coffin was finished, we 
brought it aft. Captain Hall was lying in the cabin, on two chairs, 
just as natural as when alive. We put him in the coffin. I have no 
reason to suppose he did not die a natural death. After complete dark¬ 
ness set in, we got a gale from the northeast, the ice broke up, and we 
drifted alongside Providence Iceberg. Captain Buddington came for¬ 
ward, and asked me if it was possible to get anchored on Providence 
Iceberg; I told him I would try to. He says, “I will give you Hans and 
Joe to give you a hand.’ 7 I took a hatchet and cut steps to climb up on 
the berg, took a line along with me. I hauled the anchor up on it. Then 
Hans, Joe, and Robert Kruger fetched the line up to me. The line was 
made fast on the ice on the berg, and made fast to the ship. An ice- 
anchor is an iron hook to put into the ice; the heaviest of these 
hooks we had was about 75 pounds. The rest of the men were 
busy making lines fast from the aft of the vessel to the iceberg. 
Toward dinner the wind moderated, and next morning it was calm. 
We hauled the vessel about one hundred feet ahead, alongside the 
berg. Some time afterward v r e got a gale from the southwest. The 
berg came crushing in on us and keeled the ship over on her 
beam-end. Captain Buddington came forward, and said, “Boys, you 
can go below; 1 think the danger is all over.” Captain Budding¬ 
ton went aft again, and we staid on deck. Hans and Joe were busy 
taking their things ashore. Hans took his family ashore. Joe and 


78 


Hans turned in and built two snow-bouses on shore to live in. Alter 
the ice was four feet thick they tried to get the Polaris oft' Providence 
Iceberg. Tried to blast the ice with powder, but the powder had no 
effect on the ice. Then we tried to saw the ice, and to pick the ice down 
with pick axes, but could not do it. The water came up and we could 
not do any more. When we saw that we could not get the Polaris off 
the iceberg, we gave it up. During the darkness we had nothing to do 
but fetch provisions off the ice ; used to get enough to last us a week or 
two. We cleaned decks and fed the dogs. I have forgotten how many 
dogs we had; I think somewhere about forty. In the spring parties 
used to go out hunting. In June we started with our boats north. We 
had to fetch them up to Cape Luptou. There was no other place to 
launch a boat. Captain Tyson and Mr. Chester were lying there wait¬ 
ing for a chance to get up north. One day Dr. Bessels went back 
aboard the ship, and we waited his return to start north. Mr. Chester 
told Tyson he would wait no longer. He launched his boat and went 
off. He was about two miles north of us when he had to haul his boat 
up on the ice again and set a tent on the ice. Oue man was keeping 
watch. Early iu the morning a heavy floe came in on them, crushing a 
piece away on their boat. Mr. Chester and his party came back to us 
again. Tyson asked him what the matter w r as. He told him he got his 
boat crushed in the ice. Mr. Chester and his party started for the ship. 
The next day we launched our boat and went up to Newman’s Bay. 
where the ice came in on us, and we had to haul our boat up on the ice. 
We passed by Chester’s boat; it was only about six miles from the ship. 
I think it was about four miles from the ship to Cape Luptou, and 
about two miles above there he lost his boat. A couple days afterward 
Mr. Chester came up with his canvas boat. We launched our boats sev¬ 
eral times, trying to go up to Cape Brevoort, but could not do it; al¬ 
ways had to haul our boats up 011 the ice again. Two of Mr. Chester’s 
crew went aboard the ship for some more provisions, and when they 
came aboard the ship Captain Buddington told them that the ship 
was in bad condition, and that they had to stay aboard. They made 
twice an attempt to force the ship up Newman’s Bay, intending to fetch 
the boat aboard, and come south, but could not get through on account 
of ice. The last time, when the ship ran back, they landed these two 
men on Cape Luptou, with some provisions, and the ship went back to 
Polaris Bay. I think the men were forty-eight hours on the tramp be¬ 
fore they reached the boats. They told us the ship was in bad condi¬ 
tion. Next day Captain Tyson and his party and Mr. Chester and his 
party took Captain Tj son’s boat ashore, and pitched the tent and staid 
there that night. Next day we started for the ship, reaching the ship 
in the afternoon. We walked back to the ship, being unable to get the 
boats back on account of the ice. Mr. Chester and Herman Seymour 
staid by the boat, trying to get it in shore. It was Mr. Chester’s boat— 
a canvas boat, built in New York—that w 7 as still on the ice. I think the 
next day they got the boat ashore. They returned that night to the 
ship, when all hands were aboard. We had to pump ship. Before 
they had pumped with steam. Captain Buddington asked me several 
times if it was possible to stop that- leak. I told him that if she had 
water-tight compartments it would be possible to stop the leak. The 
carpenter and 1 w orked on it several times, but could not stop it. In 
the alt of her bow was a water-tight compartment, and that is where 
w e thought she had a leak. Her stem was broken. When w 7 e had every¬ 
thing lixed, w e could raise the water about three feet higher. The for¬ 
ward hold and main hold were so full of water that it was necessary to 


79 


let the water run out where the pumps could get at it. There was a 
little provisions spoiled. There was another compartment in the fore 
part ol the ship that got full of water. The next compartment under 
the main hold got almost full. This happened while I was up at New¬ 
man’s Bay. Captain Buddington sent Hans and myself overhead to see 
if there was any chance to go south. The last day we were in Polaris 
Bay Captain Tyson was up in the mountains, and reported some leads 
of water. That afternoon we got up steam and started south. We 
worked our way down through the ice to Cape Constitution, where we 
were stuck for some days, but we drifted south all the time. Then 
the ice opened again, and we worked our way through. We got as far 
south as Humboldt Glacier, 1 believe they called it, where we were 
stuck, and had to make our ship fast on the doe. Every time the ice 
slacked up a little, we tried to get south, but did not get very far. 
We had to make the ship fast to a floe, where she froze in ; we were 
drifting south all the time. When we came into the narrows of Smith’s 
Sound a heavy gale set in ; I think it was from the southward or south¬ 
east. We drifted back up to the northward. The floe to which the 
ship was fast fetched up ashore, and the ice came crushing in on her. 
Under the pressure of the ice the ship keeled over, and Captain Bud¬ 
dington gave orders to land provisions on the ice. That was done. We 
had got a lot of provisions on the ice, when the captain gave orders to 
knock off provisions over the side. He told us to transport the pro¬ 
visions on the ice, where they would be safe. It was done. Then he 
wanted the starboard line shifted. I got a ice-chisel and dug a hole a 
little ways up higher in the floe, and told them all was ready to shift 
the line. Then he told me to get some provisions up the hill. At that 
time the floe broke up, and the ship went adrift; it was dark,and we 
soon lost sight of her. When we came to look around, we found that I 
and three others were on the piece of floe, with the larger quantity of 
provisions, while Captain Tyson and the rest of the men and Esquimaux 
were on another piece, where they had both boats, a few provisions, rifles, 
ammunition, and a canvas house, with 11J or 12 bags bread iu it, a few 
blankets, and some other things. On the piece we were on we had a 
little scow we had made in New York—a flat-bottom, four-cornered boat. 
Two of our men went in and pulled across where Captain Tyson was. 
Captain Tyson sent a man across; he came on the same piece of ice we 
were on. I sang out to Captain Tyson if 1 should fetch the stuff across 
when the boat came back. He didn’t understand me; he hollowed 
back, “Comeback with the boat as quick as possible.” We jumped 
into the boat and rowed across. We laid away both boats, the pro¬ 
visions, and our guns up on the hummock, close alongside the canvas 
house. Then Captain Tyson said, “ Go into the house and get six bags 
of bread that was done. Then we spread our skins out; laid ourselves 
down to sleep alongside the boats. Next morning we turned out and saw 
that we were close in to the shore. There was open water right along¬ 
side of the piece. Hans and Joe went a little ways in shore on the floe 
to see if we could get in shore with boats; it looked as if there was 
some young ice between us and the shore. Fred. Jaruka and I went in 
toward the eastern side of the floe. The floe was about one hundred 
yards off an island, though we didn’t know then that it was an island. 
Fred. Jaruka went farther toward the northward, to see if we could get 
in shore with the boats. I went on the young ice. Was about twenty- 
live yards off the shore when we returned to the boats. Then Captain 
Tyson ordered us to fetch the boats down to the edge of the floe. We 
did so. We launched one boat first, and loaded her. Captain Tyson, 


80 


the Esquimaux family, and some of our men went in that boat to try 
and reach the shore. They had pulled about a mile when they had to 
haul the boat upon the ice. The ice came and set in on them. We 
came shortly after them, and had to haul our boat up, too. The boats 
were about two hundred yards apart. AVe hauled both boats together, 
and I think it was in the afternoon when we sighted the ship coming 
around the point of another island. Could not tell how far she was off. 
Should judge she was about twenty-five miles off when we first saw her. 
AVe sighted her twice. Then she was heading down the straits, and 
again came toward us. When she came closer to us she set her canvas. 
Was steaming when we first saw her. We made signals. We used an 
oar with an India-rubber blanket on it. Should judge she was about 
four miles from us then, and close to the land. AVe thought she was com¬ 
ing to us. Saw no one on board. I think any one on the look-out 
should have seen us. I cannot say in what condition the ship was in. She 
steamed in behind an island. In the afternoon, about four o’clock, our 
floe went adrift. We drifted south. That evening we saw the Polaris 
between the island and main land; close into the main land. She had 
her sails down. In the evening a gale set in again. In the evening we 
tried to reach shore, but the ice came in on us, and we came nigh losing 
a boat. We got on the floe. All hands were tired out, and not able to 
get our boat back where the other one was. We left it, and returned to 
the other boat, where were our provisions and tent. AVe set our tent, 
and went to sleep. Next morning the piece we were on broke off the 
floe, separating us from one of our boats, some provisions, and the can¬ 
vas house. AVe could not secure the boat. It was blowing too hard. 
Next day we started to build snow-houses. Caught a couple of seals. 
Some days afterward Joe was on the huminack with Captain Hall’s spy¬ 
glass. He discovered the boat and the canvas house. I asked Joe if 
the ice was strong enough to get across; Joe told me it was. AA r e 
started to the floe where the boat was, with a few dogs. AVe got up to 
the boat. AVe got six bags of bread out of the canvas house, took it in 
the boat, and started back for our snow-houses. We got back in the 
afternoon. I think it was next afternoon we started back again to the 
main floe. Joe and Hans turned to, and made a sleigh. Next morning 
we started across again. AVe broke the canvas house down, put as 
much wood as we could get on the sleigh, some canvas, and went back 
to our snow-huts. Next day we started again to get some more wood 
and canvas. Next day we started again ; there was then little wood, 
two bags, poles, and a little canvas left. The rest of the men were out 
looking for provisions ; but they couldn’t see anything. Then we turned 
to and built a cook-house out of canvas. We cooked the little grub we 
had with wood. Couple days afterward Captain Tyson sent Hans and 
Joe toward shore to find a road—passage for our boats. Hans and Joe 
came back and reported that they had been ashore on the island. Cap¬ 
tain Tyson then told us to have everything ready to make a start in¬ 
shore after the spring tide w as over. We started across with a boat for 
our provisions, some clothes, some musk-ox skins, and some of our am¬ 
munition. We started back a little piece, to the floe where we had 
fetched the boat off couple days before. Toward the shore, we left her 
there, and went back to our snow-houses to get the other boat, the rest 
of the provisions, clothes, skins, ammunition, and rifles, and started 
across back to the main floe—the same floe the ship had been lying on 
all the time. AVe started across again wdth dogs and sleigh, to get the 
few things we could not carry in the boats. We loaded the sleigh with 
a couple trunks, couple sticks fire wood, little blubber, and went off 


81 


again to the main floe. Next morning Joe started with team of dogs 
to fetch fire-wood; he was gone a little while, and came back and re¬ 
ported that all the ice was broken up. We went across again on the 
broken ice, and found the piece containing our snow-houses. We got 
some clothes and a rifle. William Jackson and I then started off with 
a team of dogs. We found Hans with a team of dogs coming back 
where our snow-houses were. They went back to the boats, and told us 
the ice was broken up. We went ahead. When we came to the broken 
ice we left the dogs and sleigh standing there and walked across the broken- 
up ice. Light snow was falling. At last we found the piece our snow- 
liouses were on. We fetched the kyak, Captain Hall’s rifle, some car¬ 
penter tools back over the broken-up ice. When we got over the 
broken-up ice to the fast ice again, two of our men took the kyak, and 
William Jackson and I took the boat. They brought back the team. 
Then w r e were all on the main floe again, and that was adrift. When 
we got on the main ice again, we built snow-houses, and lived there all 
winter. We were on that piece for five months, until the first day of 
April. On the first of April we started with our boat for shore. The 
floe, which had originally been a mile and a half across, had now' got re¬ 
duced to about 30 paces across. We abandoned this on the first of 
April, and endeavored to work west with the boat we had left. The 
other boat had been broken for firewood in the winter. Whenever w r e 
got a chance to work westward we would do so in the boat, and when 
we could find no opening that we could get through, we landed on the 
best piece of ice we could find. We lived principally on seals, which 
the natives killed whenever there was open water. Toward the last of 
April we found very few seals, and got very much reduced in provisions. 
We got reduced down to our last biscuits. We had three and a half 
loaves bread left for nineteen persons for our last meal. Joe and I went 
up higher on the hummock to see if we could find an opening. Look¬ 
ing westward we saw something move; I told Joe it must be a bear. I 
first thought it was a loose cake of ice. All at once he lifted up his 
head, and Joe let drive at him, and shot him right in the head. Couple 
of days before that we came very nigh being lost; a heavy swell washed 
over us; we couldn’t do anything but hold to the piece we were on. The 
children were in the boat; the women were outside with us; we could 
not have them in the boat. We were pretty much played out; the water 
washed over us all night,* we had no dry clothes to put on; had thrown 
everything away. A few days after this we were rescued by the 
Tigress, as has been described by the others, and brought into Bay 
Boberts, and then into Saint John’s. The dogs we had on the ice we 
had to shoot, except two which we kept alive by giving them skins 
which we had ; one of them died. 

Question. Do you think the separation of the ship from you was 
accidental 

Answer. Yes, sir. 

Question. Do you think she could have come to you ? 

Answer. I can’t tell whether she could have got to us or not, without 
knowing the condition of the ship. I think she could have got to us if 
she had been in good condition. I don’t think she will be able to come 
down unless she gets some help. I am willing to go after her, and I 
think the rest of the men are willing to go. 

Question. Do you know if any of the officers ever got drunk ? 

Answer. I do not; 1 am no judge whether a man has got liquor or 
not. Never saw any one drunk. 

6 p 


82 


Question. Did you find any drift-wood ? 

Answer. Some of the men found some drift-wood. In Polaris Bay, 
on the southeast shore, I found a piece of drift-wood about three and a 
half feet long, and about as thick as my arm, without bark. I think 
it was some kind of soft wood; I could not say if it was a branch of a 
tree or not. It was a straight piece; it was very much worn. A little 
farther in shore I found another piece about a foot and a half long; this 
was about two miles south of our winter quarters. The biggest piece 
was about one hundred feet from the water; the other piece was about 
half a mile from shore, in a ravine; both pieces seem to be the same 
kind of wood. Then I found a sleigh-runner up on Cape Lupton, on the 
water’s edge. 


83 


EXAMINATION OF PETER JOHNSON, SEAMAN. 

I am 33 years old; was born in Denmark ; have been in this country 
eight or nine years. Am one of the crew of the Polaris, and sailed 
with her from New York. I joined her here in Washington. We left 
Upernavik about the middle of August, 1871. I don’t know anything 
about charts; but after leaving Upernavik we sailed along pretty much 
following the land. We stopped at Tussuisak. We went up through 
Melville Bay, up through Kennedy Channel. We went on the west side, 
going up through Smith’s Sound. We were on the west side most of the 
time until we came to what has been called Kane’s Open Sea; it was a 
bay; we could see land on both sides. Captain Hall called it Polaris Bay. 
After we got through this we went into another channel; Captain Hall 
called that Robeson Channel. After we got into winter-quarters Cap¬ 
tain Hall went north on a sledge-journey. We had been up higher, but 
had to come back to go into win ter-quarters. Captain Hall was gone 
about two weeks. After he came back to the ship he took sick right 
after, aud in about fourteen days afterward he died. He died in the 
morning. I was called up about 9 or 10 o’clock that morning. I saw 
Captain Hall when he came back ; we were outside banking up the ship 
by putting snow all around us. He looked well; came up and shook 
hands with all of us. I did not see him again until we went into church 
next Sunday. We did not have church that Sunday; he was too sick. 
We had church every Sunday as long as he was alive, except this last 
Sunday. The services were conducted by Mr. Bryan. I did not see 
him at any other time when he was sick, and do not know what was 
the matter with him ; they said he was out of his mind ; everybody that 
went to see him said he was out of his mind. I believe Esquimaux Joe, 
Hannah, and Mr. Martin attended him while sick. We buried Captain 
Hall on the 11th of November. I have no reason to believe that he died 
from any other than natural causes; he didn’t show any signs of any¬ 
thing being wrong; he looked quite himself; he looked just the same 
as when alive. I never heard anybody say he had been poisoned, and 
have no reason to believe anything of the kind. He used to say some¬ 
body was going to shoot him. They said he was not in his right senses, 
and that he did not know what he was saying. Alter Captain Hall died 
we didn’t do anything. We didn’t have any sun; it was completely 
dark. We were in our winter-quarters in Polaris Bay. In the latter 
part of winter a gale of wind struck us, and we drifted down alongside 
an iceberg, when we got a line and tied her fast. She lay on the spur 
of the iceberg with her bow; she lay on this iceberg ail winter; we 
could not get her off, and the tide rising and falling strained her stem 
so that she leaked considerably when she broke out, which was not un¬ 
til the latter part of June. We were away in boats when she broke out, 
and I do not know exactly what day. They had to keep steam-pumps 
going to keep her afloat. After we got back we kept her afloat with 
the hand-pumps. We were up in Newman’s Bay, about 20 or 22 miles 
from the ship; canuot say correctly about the distance, but it was 
longer by boat than it would have been straight across. I think we 
started tiie 1st of June. I went in one of the boats with Captain Ty¬ 
son ; Dr. Bessels was in our boat; Mr. Meyer was in the other boat 
with Mr. Chester. We had twelve men with us in the two boats, 
six in each boat, including the officers. We were waiting for a 


84 


chance to go north, but the ice drifted so thick and heavy we could 
not get through it. The scientific men took observations when they 
could—whenever the sun was out. The doctor didn’t do much of any¬ 
thing; he was snow-blind most of the time. The temperature up in 
Newman’s Bay was always below freezing; it was not very cold in the 
summer. There was not very much snow on the ground. There were 
a few flowers growing in a sort of moss. I do not remember seeing any 
timber floating in the bay. I found some small pieces of drift-wood, 
about as large as my arm; could not tell what kind of wood it was. No 
wood grew there, except a few scrawny willows; some specimens were 
brought aboard the ship; do not recollect seeing any except this I have 
described. From where we were we could see up through the channel. 
After it got through, the land ran east on one side and northwest on the 
other. We could not see land across to the north of it; could see land 
northwest as far as we could see. We left the boats there; one of them 
was stove in. Mr. Chester was a mile or so ahead, when a heavy floe 
came in and broke his boat. We were up in Newman’s Bay about 
thirty-seven or thirty-eight days, when Hans came back and told us 
they could not keep the ship afloat. We walked back to the ship. She 
started south. Some time in the first part of August, we tied up to a 
piece of ice, and drifted along for about two months. The leak in the 
ship didn’t make so much water. We kept her clear with the little 
hand-pump. We kept relieving each other; three or four men used to 
pump at a time. On the 15th of October it was blowing hard from the 
southeast. We were working at the pump. We heard a crash, and, 
looking out of the window, we saw the ice coming in on us, and told 
Captain Buddington. He called on all hands to get the provisions over¬ 
board. Some of us went on the ice. The wind was blowing a gale, and 
drifting the snow, while we were on the ice. All at once the ship broke 
loose. I don’t think it was more than five minutes before she was out 
of sight. I was on the main piece of ice; some of the men were on the 
small pieces, and had to be brought off on boats. We got all together 
on one piece. We lost most of the bread and provisions, because we 
tried to save our boats. We only had one sled-load of provisions; that 
is all we got off. In the morning we tried to go on shore; we got about 
half a mile, but could not go any farther on account of the ice. In the 
afternoon we saw the ship some miles off; we could see her quite plain. 
We put up a black rubber blanket on an oar; thought they would see 
us, but she steamed in behind an island, and. we lost sight of her. I 
don’t know what condition she was in; she had probably been drift¬ 
ing about all that night. It would take about five tons of coal to get 
up steam, and she could not have had many tons left. She had a 
large break in her stern. We tried to get to her that evening; 
we were pretty well played out; the ice came setting down on us, 
and we could not get back to the place we had left. Next morn¬ 
ing we lost one of our boats, but ten days afterward we found it. 
We finally floated off and lost all trace of the ship. One of the boats 
we afterward cut up to burn for fire-wood during the winter; the keel 
of it we put under that of the other boat, to save it from being stove 
up when we drew it on the ice. We were on the ice 197 days—from the 
15th of October until the last of April. We were on one floe about five 
months, I think. When we found we were going out into the sea, we 
left the piece we were on and tried to get on shore ; we would land on 
a good piece of ice until we got a chance to go westward; when we 
could not go west we tried to go south. I do not know how many dif¬ 
ferent pieces we were on altogether, sometimes two or three in one" day. 


85 


One time we were fourteen or fifteen days on one piece. We got near 
out of provisions; bad only a little bread left for supper. That night 
we caught a bear. We caught plenty of seals until we got jammed up in 
the ice, when we could not get at them any more. We were picked up 
on the last day of April. On the 28th day of April we saw a steamer ; 
she came steaming down from the southward, about southwest. We 
saw her smoke. We watched them until it was so dark we could not see 
them any more. We set watch. Next morning we saw the steamer 
again, about four or five miles distant. We made signals to her; 
hoisted up blankets; got up on high pieces of ice; there was some 
shoved up by the sea; we got all the fire-arms we had and fired them 
all at once, hoping they would hear us. After we fired three times we 
heard them fire, and thought they had heard us, but could not get to 
us. Soon after they steamed away out of sight, and we gave it up for 
lost. That night we kept up a fire all night; we rolled up the canvas 
with some blubber we had and kept up the fire all night. Next morn¬ 
ing at five o’clock we saw the ship again, and we hailed her. There 
was also another steamer coming from the other side, about five hun¬ 
dred yards off. We were rescued ; we got into the steamer, got a smoke 
and something to eat, and they brought us to Saint John’s. We lay in 
Saint John’s three days. I cannot say if the steamer came down home 
on account of us or not. They said one of their boilers gave out; they 
could not get steam only in one boiler. I think they came down because 
he could not get back to the sealing-ground. After they got us they 
caught 270 seals; don’t know how many they got on the voyage ; think 
7,000. I do not think the people on board the Polaris meant to abandon 
us. I think they had some reason for not coming to us ; perhaps the 
ship was in such bad condition, or it may have looked to them as if we 
could have come to them. It must have looked from the ship as if we were 
close to the shore. 1 think she is in a good place to get out, and if she 
only had coal enough she would come home, but she has very little. If 
she has any more leak than when we left her they won’t be able to keep 
her afloat. They are pretty near shore, and there must be natives close 
to them. We never saw any of them. I don’t know anything about 
any difficulty aboard the ship—nothing of the kind. I heard the officers 
aft didn’t agree very well, but did not. see anything. I have seen 
Captain Buddington when he had a little too much; could not see it on 
any of the rest of them. The night we lost the ship Captain Budding- 
ton was all right; there was no liquor on the ship then. 

Question. Do you know of any other difficulty in the ship ? 

Answer. No, sir, not any; we had good rules on the ship so long as 
Captain Hall was alive; not so good after that; there was not so much 
rules after that. 

Question. How was it on the ice? 

Answer. We got along well enough; didn’t have much to eat; we 
didn’t know much about rules on the ice; it was not the place to think 
much about it. When Captain Tyson told us to do anything, we always 
done it; and when we didn’t we found out it didn’t turn out well. 
When we were picked up Captain Tyson said we were only about 
twenty-five or thirty miles from land. I kept no record; kept a note¬ 
book on board the ship, but it was left in the ship. 


86 


FEED. AUNTING, SEAMAN, EXAMINED. 

I was bora in Eussia, on the Prussian border. I joined the Polaris at 
Washington. After we left Disco we went through Smith’s Sound, 
then up Kennedy Channel, past Cape Constitution, and across what was 
called Kane’s Open Sea, and found it to be a bay. Northward of that 
we found another channel or strait; we called the bay Polaris Bay,and 
the strait north of it Eobeson Strait. The first cape on the Green¬ 
land side, above Polaris Bay, they called Cape Lupton. There was a bay 
northward, making out of Eobeson Strait, which they called New¬ 
man’s Bay. We w r ent in the ship up Eobeson Strait to latitude 82° 
1G'; that is what the scientific men told us was the latitude. We did 
not go quite through the strait, but could see through it; we could see 
where the land above us made otf to the eastward, also to the west. From 
Cape Union the land broke off to the west; on the other side it com¬ 
menced to break off from Cape Brevoort, on the Greenland side. It 
seemed as if the land made off southeast. We could see land on the 
other side make northward as far as we could see. After we reached 
the highest point, the ship was driven back before the ice by a northeast 
gale. After the gale there seemed to be open water to the northward, 
but the ship did not go any farther north. We made several attempts 
to find a harbor in Eobeson Strait, but could find none. We were 
obliged to make our winter quarters on the east shore of Polaris Bay, 
about four miles below Cape Lupton. in a small bay which Captain Hall 
called Thank God Harbor. There we anchored under the lee of an ice¬ 
berg, on the eastern side of the iceberg, between it and the shore. 
There we went into winter quarters, erected an observatory on the 
shore, put provisions on the shore, and began banking in the ship. 
After we got into winter quarters Captain Hall went off on a sledge 
journey. He started alone, with Joe and Hans and Air. Chester, all in 
one sleigh, but afterward sent one of the Esquimaux back for another 
sleigh. They went across overland to Newman’s Bay, and then across 
the bay to Cape Brevoort. They were gone about two weeks. They 
went in the early part of October. I shook hands with Captain Hall 
when he came back; he shook hands with all of us; he seemed very 
well. He went aboard the ship, and the next day I heard he was sick. I 
never saw him again until after he was dead, and I don’t know what was 
the matter with him ; they said he was delirious. I helped bury him. All 
of the ship’s company were present. The services were read by Mr. Bryan. 
He was buried about half a mile from the ship, to the southward of the 
observatory. After that Captain Buddington took command of the 
ship, and we lay in wfinter quarters all winter; the scientific men 
kept up their observations all the time. Some time in the month 
of November, after Captain Hall’s death, the ship broke adrift, and we 
went up alongside an iceberg. There we were made fast, and were 
frozen in. Next morning there was a calm, and there was open water 
back of where the ship was lying before, but the ship was not moved 
back. I do not know why. Pretty soon we were frozen in again, and 
we anchored fast in the iceberg. The iceberg put out a spur under the 
bow of the Polaris. We had several gales afterward, and the foot of 
the iceberg was driven under the stem of the vessel. She lay there all 
winter, with her stem on the foot of the iceberg, and her stern rising 
and falling with the tide. This broke a part of her stem and split some 


87 


planks, which made her leak when she broke out the next summer. I 
went north with the boats with Mr. Chester just before the vessel broke 
out in July. We lay there during the winter, spring, and early summer. 
In July Mr. Chester and Captain Tyson made an expedition north with 
two boats. I went in the boat with Mr. Chester. Mr. Meyer was with 
us. Dr. Bessels was with Captain Tyson. We could not go farther 
north than Newman’s Bay. Our boat was lost in the ice shortly after 
we started—when we were about three days away from the ship. We 
went back and got a canvas boat, and came again to Newman’s Bay; 
but we got no farther north than about the middle of Newman’s Bay. 
After staying there more than a month, trying to go north with the boats, 
they sent word for us to come back to the ship. We finally went back, 
and found the ship had broken out, and was leaking considerably. 
Afterward the leak seemed to diminish, and she made less w T ater. We 
could keep her clear by pumping five to seven minutes each hour with the 
four deck-pumps; I don’t remember what day, but some time in the month 
of August, we made our way slowly down along the west shore, until 
about opposite Cape Frazer, where we got beset in the ice. We floated 
down with the ice, getting southward whenever we got a chance. Finally 
we were anchored to a large floe, and floated down before it. At last, 
on the 15th of October, there came a severe gale, and another large 
piece of ice came up against the ship from the southward. The ship 
w r as under heavy pressure, and was lifted up and keeled over on her 
starboard side. We had a good deal of provisions, ammunition, and 
materials for fuel all ready on deck in case of an accident of this kind. 
The order was given to throw the provisions overboard on the ice. At 
the same time Captain Buddington sang out, li Work now for your lives, 
boys.” A party were out on the ice carrying provisions higher upon the 
ice. At the same time Captain Buddington saw that the ice-anchor 
had left its place, and should be put back. Some men went to do this. 
Just then the ice began to crack. We sang out to Captain Buddington 
that the ice was cracking just where the boats were. He gave orders 
to pull the boats on the solid ice. Just then the ice commenced to open 
again, and left some of our men on the separate piece of ice, with some 
provisions. Just as we got the old scow launched to take the men 
off this separate piece of ice, the ship broke loose and went away 
in the darkness. She was gone in an instant, and in a minute 
or two was out of sight. She drifted off. Finally, we launched 
one of the boats, and got the men olf the separate piece on 
to the main floe again. The provisions that were on that piece 
were lost. It was a dark night, blowing a fresh gale, sno*v drifting 
very hard. We laid down and went to sleep on the ice, alongside the 
boats. We might have saved more provisions during the night, but 
Captain Tyson thought we would see the vessel in the morning. In the 
morning w T e could not see the vessel nor the provisions. We made 
several attempts to get on shore during that day but were not able to 
succeed. Along in the day we caught sight of the ship coming down 
from the northward, under steam and canvas. We set our colors; put 
an India-rubber blanket on an oar, dark side out. Supposed she was 
coming down to take us off. She didn’t come, however, but steamed in 
between the island and main land ; and w r e lost sight of her. We con¬ 
tinued our efforts to get on shore, and got on various pieces of ice from 
time to time. One time Hans and Joe had gone out to see if we could 
get ashore; reported that we could reach it. They themselves had 
reached a small island, and came back and reported to us. We started, 
but before w r e could reach it the ice was again broken up, and we were 
adrift, and were unable to reach the shore. Finally, after moving about 


88 


from piece to piece on tlie ice, we got back again on the main floe. We 
left one of our boats, however, on another piece, but about two weeks 
afterward we fortunately saw it again, and with some difficulty got it 
and its contents on to our main piece. After we commenced to float on 
the ice we rounded the channel between the island and main land, and 
we could see the ship lying close in shore. She seemed to us to be 
right up to the shore ; her sails were furled, and there was no steam to 
be seen then. It was the shore of the main land that she was close to; 
that was the last we saw of her. We built snow-houses on the floe—on 
the highest parts of it. Four of the crew lived in one; Joe, Hannah, 
and Captain Tyson in another; Hans and his family in another; and 
another was used as a store-house. We were put on an allowance of 
eleven ounces of provisions per day. This was weighed out on a scale 
made by Mr. Meyer, with weights made with shot. We caught some 
seals during the winter, and lived on this floe, floating southward for 
five months. The floe, when we first got on it, was about one and a 
half miles across. We abandoned it on the 1st day of April. It was 
then a small piece, not more than twenty to twenty-five paces across. 
Our houses had been put on the thickest and strongest part of the piece. 
When we left this piece we took to the boat; we had left the other, 
having been burned for fire-wood during the winter. Put in every¬ 
thing we could carry, and tried to make our way westward ashore. 
This we did for three weeks, making our way westward whenever we 
got a chance; and when the ice was not sufficiently open for us to 
do this, we landed on tbe solid ice. By this means we reached pack-ice; 
drifted nearer shore. We caught a good many seals whenever we could 
get to open water, but when we got to pack-ice we caught very few, and 
sometimes got very much reduced in provisions. About the 20th of April 
we were reduced to a handful of biscuits among nineteen people. O 11 
that very afternoon Joe shot a bear that came across the ice toward us, 
and from that time we had plenty of meat until we were rescued. We 
were finally picked up on the last day of April by the steamer Tigress, 
and brought into Newfoundland. We had a very hard time on the ice, 
and particularly after we started, trying to make shore. One night a 
heavy sea swept over the ice we were on, sweeping the ice-cakes over it. 
We could do nothing but cling to the boat, in which we had put the 
children and provisions, and hold it and ourselves on the ice during the 
whole night. We were all drenched to the skin that night, and never 
had an opportunity to dry our clothes until we were rescued. I think 
our separation from the ship was purely accidental. The next day she 
could have come back to us, but I don’t know what condition she was 
in. I don’t know whether she leaked any more just before she was 
taken away; perhaps they thought we could get to them ; I don’t know 
about that; perhaps they were not in a condition to do so. I hardly 
think the vessel can get out without assistance. I found a few pieces 
of drift-wood. I found a piece about half a foot long, soft wood, but 
could not make out what kind of wood it W'as. It did not come from 
anything that grew there, nor did it come from the boat. It was a piece 
of plain wood ; had never been cut with tools. I found this as we were 
coming back from Newman’s Bay to the Polaris, about thirty or forty 
yards southeast from the shore of Newman’s Bay. 

Question. Ho you know of any difficulty between the officers on the 
ship! 

Answer. No, sir; never heard of any difficulty, except some little dif¬ 
ficulty between the captain and Mr. Meyer, at Hisco. I have never 
seen any of the officers drunk. Hid not hear of any officer being drunk. 
I did not keep any record. I cannot write. 


89 


EXAMINATION OF WILLIAM JACKSON, (COOK.) 

I was born in New York; ain 25 years old. I sailed with the ship 
Polaris ; joined her in New London. I was ship’s cook. I don’t know 
anything about charts. After leaving Upernavik we kept sailing 
north. Kept in sight of land most of the way. Went up until stopped 
by the ice. Tried to make winter-quarters. We laid there some days, 
and then drifted farther south again, and went into winter-quarters be¬ 
low. We took some provisions ashore, and laid there, alongside an ice¬ 
berg, all winter. After we got in winter-quarters Captain Hall went 
north, on a sledge-journey, and when he came back he was taken sick. 
I don’t know exactly how long he was sick. I remember when he came 
back, but don’t remember the date. I met him on the gangway, and 
shook hands with him. He was well and hearty. I saw him all the 
time after that. I slept in the cabin. He was taken sick directly after 
he came back from his journey; the same night. When he first came 
aboard, the steward got him some coffee from the galley. Cannot say 
whether he gave him anything else or not. The coffee was taken from 
the galley the same as everybody else had. It was directly after dinner, 
and he got the same coffee we had for dinner. I did not see the steward 
give it to him. That night he was sick. That night, when I came into 
the cabin, Captain Hall was sick. He accused people of poison¬ 
ing him. He didn’t call him by name, but I seen him point toward 
I)r. Bessels and say, “That man poisoned me.” After he got 
pretty bad he thought everybody was trying to poison him. They 
said he was out of his head. He thought I was going to shoot 
him. I went to get my pipe one night out of my bunk. He sent 
Captain Buddington over to overhaul my bunk, to see what I had 
in there. I have no idea that he died any but a natural death. I 
have no reason to think anything to the contrary. There was no diffi¬ 
culty on board the ship; no mutiny or anything of the kind, so far as I 
know. After Captain Hall was buried on shore we lay in winter-quar¬ 
ters there all through the winter. In the spring an expedition was 
made north in the boats. I did not go with them. The scientific men 
were busy all the time. They had an observatory on shore and were 
kept busy. The doctor was making his observations, shooting birds, 
stuffing them, and such things, but didn’t get many birds. • The ship 
broke out before the boats came back. We tried to go up where the 
boats were, but could not for the ice. After they came back we started 
south. We kept going until we got beset in the ice; then we drifted 
down. On the 15th of October we were anchored fast to an ice-floe. 
The ice broke up, and the ship got beset in the ice. The ice came up 
from the southward and jammed her pretty tight. We thought she 
was sinking. We were putting provisions on the ice. While we were 
on the ice the ship got adrift. 1 don’t know whether she slipped her 
lines or not. One of her lines slipped; the other went off I don’t know 
how. It was blowing pretty heavy$ I don’t know what direction. We 
were on the floe we had been anchored to, on the main piece. Some of 
the other men were on the other pieces. Orders were for all hands to 
lump on the ice. I took my bag from the cabin, threw it on the ice, and 
then followed it. Other things from the ship were thrown to us. It 
was blowing a gale and snow drifting. Don’t think it was snowing. 
Next day we tried to get ashore with our boats, but had to go back on 


90 


the floe. In the evening we tried again to get on shore. We saw the 
ship before we tried to get on shore the last time. She looked to me to 
be about ten miles off. I could see her as far down as the rails. Could 
see her sail, but could not see the rigging to make it out. I was above 
the water, but not very high. When we left the ship she was leaking 
pretty badly; we had to keep her pumps going nearly all the time. 
We kept her clear with the hand-pump. When we saw the ship we 
tried to draw their attention. We got up a blanket on a pole or oar 
and tried to make them see it. Some of our party saw the ship after¬ 
ward, but I did not. Four or five of us went over on the other side 
to get something. When we came back they said they had seen 
the ship. Then we floated down on the ice. We were on the ice 
six months and eleven days. I could not say how long we were 
on one piece. Most of the time we were on the piece the ship 
had been tied to. At first it was about two or three miles big ; I 
should think, a round piece, but got down pretty small before we got 
off; I could not say exactly how large; I wanted to get away so bad I 
didn’t take much notice how large the piece was. Whenever we got 
clear water we went in the boats; whenever we could not we went on 
the ice. Got feet wet sometimes. I stood the cold good deal better 
than some of the rest. Captain Tyson stood it the worst; he com¬ 
plained of cold nearly all the time. We got pretty near out of pro¬ 
visions. We caught good many seals while we were in the boats. 
Killed two bears, the last one not very long before we were picked up, 
just as we were getting out of provisions. We got down to our last 
meal; had a little bread left, about enough for one man ; we were going 
to have it for supper. About a week after that we were picked up. I 
cannot say that any officer on the ship got drunk. I never saw any one 
what you might call drunk. I heard them say some got drunk, but 
never saw them drunk myself; not at any time. There might have 
been such a thing, but I did not see it. When we first went on the ice, 
Captain Tyson was in charge of the provisions; there was something 
wrong about it, and he gave it up. Some others took charge. Whether 
he had some words with any of them I do not know. 

Question. Were the provisions given to you to cook % 

Answer. No, sir. We didn’t do any cooking on the ice. 

Question. Did you ever see any stealing of provisions ? 

Answer. No, sir. 

Question. Did the man who had charge of the provisions give Cap¬ 
tain Tyson his share ? 

Answer. The man who had charge had a small scales, which Mr. 
Meyer had rigged up, and gave each his share. He had this before 
Captain Tyson stopped issuing provisions. Captain Tyson directed the 
movements of the boats when we tried to get off; and directed the 
natives about the killing of seals, and things of that kind. Nobody, 
that I know of, refused to do as Captain Tyson told them. 


91 


4 


JOURNAL OF HERMAN SIEMANS, SAILOR ON fBOARD OF 
THE UNITED STATES STEAMER POLARIS, ON AN EXPE¬ 
DITION TO THE NORTH POLE. C. F. HALL, COMMANDER. 


Translated from the German by E. R. Knorr, Esq. 


Prayer token starting. 

All-knowing Father, on Thee I call and pray, that Thou mayest 
look upon ns in Thy mercy and may be with us in this cruise to the" icy 
North. Thou only knowest whether we ever on earth shall see again 
our beloved, or whether we shall soon lay down our pilgrim’s staff. I 
pray Thee to direct the hearts of all of us, that all on this ship may 
always bow^ before Thee. Let our eyes always be directed toward 
the heights of Golgotha, where Thou hast borne the burden of our sins. 
Lead us to endeavor to gain that which only is needed, that we may all 
say together, we know that our Redeemer liveth. Then, even if the 
iceberg covers our mortal part, or the fierce polar bear tears it, we shall 
have Thee, Saviour, the best guide of our heart’s ship. Hear ray jirayer 
in Thy great mercy, and for the Saviour Jesus Christ’s sake. Amen. 

Thursday, June 29, at G p. m., w T e left New York, and arrived on the 
following day, at 114 a. in. at New London, where we dropped anchor. 
In the evening we had divine service on board, in which quite a number 
of members of the Baptist congregation participated. In the night 
there w T as a thunder-storm with rain. 

Monday, July 3, we left New London, with fine weather. On the 
4th, 5th, and 6th it was foggy, but otherwise fair. In the evening of 
the 7th, in the first watch, the weather changed; dark clouds roseS.W. 
above the horizon, and in a few minutes the entire sky became en¬ 
shrouded ; the S.W. wind brought rain-squalls, fog, and a violent thun¬ 
der-storm ; the lightning was without intermission ; for moments it 
seemed as if the firmament was on fire. After midnight, however, the 
storm lulled down. 

Sunday, the 9th, we had divine service from 11 to 12 a. m., and Cap¬ 
tain Hall promised to have it, w T ith God’s aid, every Sunday. I was 
heartily glad that the name of our Heavenly Father should thus be hal¬ 
lowed. 

Monday, the 10th, we saw the coast of Newfoundland. 

Thursday, the 11th, in the forenoon, several heavy blocks of ice were 
passed. At noon of the same day we entered the harbor of Saint John’s, 
in which there were two icebergs. We remained there eight days. 

On Wednesday, the 19th, we left Saint John’s, with God’s aid all well 
and contented. In the evening, between 10 and 11, an aurora borealis 
illuminated the sky with splendid rays. 

Tuesday, the 25th, the weather remaining fine, we were, at 5 p. m., in 
latitude 58° 44' N. • longitude 52° 20' W. There was again an aurora in 
the morning, showing beautifully at times in a semicircle, and then 
rising almost to the zenith. 

Wednesday, the 2Gth, at 7 a. in., w e passed a piece of timber which 
appeared as if it had been floating for several years. 




92 


Thursday, the 27th, at 3.30 a. m., we saw the w%st coast of Greenland 
and a great number of icebergs—some near the coast, others as far dis¬ 
tant seaward as the eye could reach. At 3 p. m. a pilot boarded us in a 
kyat, a boat in which only one person can sit in the center and which 
only can be managed by one well used to it, as otherwise it would cap¬ 
size directly. With these boats the natives go out to sea hundreds of 
miles, even in stormy weather. At 5.30 p. m. we came-to in the harbor 
of Fiskanaes. Greenland, which I then, saw for the first time, is truly 
a sterile, mountainous country. The Danish settlement, Fiskanaes, con¬ 
sists of twenty houses and huts, with about seventy people. The houses 
of the governor had a decent appearance, being of wood; but the huts 
of the Esquimaux were composed of pieces of sod, with so low an en¬ 
trance that the people could only creep into them ; a few were covered 
with seal-skin ; the interior looked very poor. The natives live almost 
entirely on fish ; they are quite intelligent, and there is more brotherly 
love between them than in many Christian communities. Their garments 
are made of seal and reindeer skin ; their boots are generally lined with 
feathers. The women wear jackets and pants like those of the male, but 
they are distinguished by a black head-cover, through the top of which 
the hair hangs out in a plait interwoven with red ribbon $ they also 
wear short boots, while those of the men are long. 

Saturday, the 29th, at 3 a. m., we left Fiskanaes, with beautiful 
weather. At four hours we passed Lichtenfels, where tw*> German 
missionaries live. In the afternoon the increasing breeze brought rain, 
and at 8 p. m. a gale blew from the S.W., creating a dark sky and a 
violent sea, which compelled us to stop the engine and to shorten sail, 
in order to avoid the icebergs. After midnight the gale abated. 

Monday, July 31, we entered the harbor of Holsteinberg, where we 
counted sixteen huts and fifty people. 

August 3, 2 p. m., we left Holsteinberg, and in the morning of the 
4th we came in sight of Disco Island. We passed numerous icebergs, 
some of which we estimated of a height of 200 feet above the surface 
of the sea. At 2 p. m. a pilot came on board, and at 3 p. m. we anchored 
off Godhaven. This settlement contains twenty-seven houses, with 
about seventy people. 

Sunday, the 0th, Captain Hall, with some of us, visited the church, 
where also thirty Esquimaux attended. 

Thursday, the 10th, the United States ship Congress arrived from 
New York, with provisions and coal for us. We took as much as we 
could stow, and the remainder was stored on shore. 

Tuesday, the 17th, we received some Esquimaux dogs, which are to 
draw the sleighs in our excursions. At noon Rev. Newman, of Wash¬ 
ington, and Rev. JBraine, of the Congress, came on board; the former 
preached a sermon and prayed with us. At 2 p. m. we left Godhaven 
with fair weather, and passed the same day many icebergs, which com¬ 
pelled us to change frequently the course. 

Friday, the 13th, at 3 p. m., we were in latitude 71° 57' N., longitude 
50° G' W., and at 1.30 p. m. we entered the harbor of Upernavik. This 
settlement consists of twenty-two houses, inhabited by sixty people. 
The Esquimaux appeared more dirty the farther north we came ; most 
of them looked as if they had been smoked. Here Hans came on board, 
with his wife and three children. 

Tuesday, the 20th, toward evening, I ascended a hill, where I prayed 
some hours to God and my Redeemer, and thought of my distant dear. 
I also visited the burial-places, which lay scattered over the mountains, 
some almost near the tops, where it must have been difficult to carry 


93 


the bodies. The coffins, of rough wood, were merely placed on the sur¬ 
face and covered with rock. The weight of the latter had burst the 
lids of some, so that the bodies could be seen. The Esquimaux told 
us that bodies which had been buried very many years appeared exactly 
as when buried. Formerly the law was, among the Esquimaux, that 
at the death of the parents the eldest son iulierited the property. It is 
said that some of them have enticed their parents into the mountains, 
and then thrown stones upon them, under which they still lie buried. 

Monday, the 21st, we received on board eight tons of coal, some more 
dogs, and seal skins. At 7 p. m. the governor came on board, intend¬ 
ing to accompany us to Tessuisak. At 8 we left Upernavik with fair 
weather, and arrived at 11 off Kingituk, where the captain and the gov¬ 
ernor landed to visit the governor of that place, returning at 1 o’clock 
with twelve dogs. We then proceeded, and came to on the 22d, at 5.40 
a. m., in Tessuisak Harbor, where we also received a number of dogs, 
skins, and fur dresses. On tbe 23d fog prevented us from going to sea. 

Thursday, the 24th, we left Tessuisak, the northernmost settlement. In 
the evening of the 25th we narrowly escaped running in the darkness, 
with full steam-power, against a large iceberg. In the night, from the 
25th to the 26th, we were surrounded closely by drift-ice and icebergs, 
but with God’s aid were able to work through them. August 26, 5 
p. m., we passed Awash Island, in latitude 76J° N., longitude 70° W. 
At 7 p. m. we saw a piece of drift-ice protruding about two feet above 
the surface of the water, with thirty walrus on it. Seeing us they 
jumped into the water, and two shots tired into them seemed not to have 
hit them, the distance being too great. That night and the next fore¬ 
noon we again were so surrounded by ice that it was difficult to pro¬ 
ceed. At noon of the 27th we were in latitude 77° 51' N., where the 
needle of the compass showed a deviation of nine points. At 3.30 p. m. 
we passed the harbor where Kane wintered in 1860; and at 9 p. m. the 
winter harbor of Kane in 1853 to 1S55, where he left the remainder of 
his ship which he had not used for fuel, bore east distant 14 miles. No 
vessel but our Polaris has ever penetrated farther north on the west 
coast of Greenland. We did not meet there as much ice as we had ex¬ 
pected. On the 28th of August, at 6 a. m., we came up with Cape 
Frazer in latitude 80° N. A boat was lowered, in which Captain Hall 
and five of us landed, for the first time in so high a latitude. We in¬ 
tended to look for a harbor, but did not find any place for shelter. Pro¬ 
ceeding farther, we encountered great quantities of ice, through which 
we pushed on north. At 11 p. m. we passed Cape Constitution, on 
Washington Land, (Greenland,) in latitude 81° N., the northernmost 
point reached by Dr. Kane, 1854, in sleighs, where he believed to have 
seen the open Polar Sea; but he erred, as we discovered the coasts to 
extend still farther in a northern direction, with high mountains back 
of them. On the 29th, at 11 a. m., we reached Cape Lieber, in lat¬ 
itude 81° 24' N., discovered 1860 by Kane on a sleigh excursion. No 
one has ever been farther on the Grinnell Land side; here our discover¬ 
ies were to begin. The distance of the coasts from each other, in the 
narrow part of the strait, is about 40 miles. The land is likewise moun¬ 
tainous and high. At 4 p. m. fog set in, and at 6 we were compelled to 
stop the engines, as we were surrounded by great ice-fields, to one of 
which we fastened the ship by ice-anchors and hawsers. At 7 p. m. the 
fog lifted, and we could see both coasts, when we again started, trying 
to press through the ice, with which the ship came frequently in collis- 
sion. It was very cold, the wind blowing strong from the north. We 
worked along throughout the night to 6 o’clock in the morning, when 


94 


we saw firm ice from one coast to the other. Under these circumstances 
it became important to look for a winter station, but there seemed to 
be none in this vicinity. At 9.30 fog set again in with snow, and we 
had again to fasten the ship to a floe, where we lay to p. in., when 
we saw some clear water near the Greenland coast, for which we di¬ 
rected our course. Believing to see a small bay, a boat was lowered 
and the place examined, but it proved too exposed for the ship. We 
worked along the coast until midnight, when fog compelled us to fasten 
the ship. 

August 31, at 6 a. m., the fog lifted. We started and continued the 
search for the entire day, but in vain. At 4 p. m. we directed the 
course for the Grinnell Land coast, but the ice prevented us from reach¬ 
ing it. At 6 p. m. we made fast to a great floe. 

Friday, September 1, we saw in the morning a small opening, through 
which we worked the vessel about the distance of a mile nearer to the 
coast, where we had again to make fast, as we could then not move the 
ship in any direction. Toward 7 p. m. a strong easterly wind arose, 
setting the stream with the ice against us, the smaller pieces of the lat¬ 
ter drifting faster than the floe to which the ship was tied. This press¬ 
ure broke the hawsers at the bow and the stern, and lifted one side of 
the ship almost bodily on the floe to which we lay, imperilling her greatly. 
As the ice, pressing from all sides around us, had a thickness of at least 
twenty feet, it became imperative to provide for emergencies. Pro¬ 
visions and stores were carried on deck, and guns, cartridges, two suits 
for each person, &c., placed within easy reach, so as to land them on the 
ice in case the ship should be crushed. Toward 9 p. m. the wind abated, 
the ice ceased to press, and remained quiet throughout the night. The 
following day, in the morning, we unshipped the propeller, in order to 
save it from being broken. At 2 p. m. the pressure of the ice began 
again, huge masses approaching the ship. All hands were now em¬ 
ployed landing provisions and fuel on the ice, in two places, so that one 
part might be saved in case the ice should break near the other. When 
a considerable quantity had been landed, more was carried on deck as a 
reserve. In the night following that day the ice kept more quiet, 
although there was a snow-storm. 

Sunday, the 3d, divine service was attended to from 11 to 12, as 
usual. The snow fell so thickly as to allow us only occasionally to see 
the coast of Greenland, although it was distant only two miles. The 
highest place we had reached was, according to astronomical observa¬ 
tions, between latitude 82° 20' and 82° 30' N., but now we drifted quite 
briskly south. Ship and crew appeared to be a ready prey to the ice. 
But there is a God who aids and saves from death; to Him i trusted be¬ 
tween these icebergs and ice-fields, although I know that I do not 
deserve all the good he grants me. 

September 4, at 9 a. in., open water appeared at a few places, when 
everything was quickly shipped again. There was some difficulty in 
replacing the screw in its position, as the latter was frozen over. At 
9.30 p. m. steam was ready and we began to work toward the coast of 
Greenland, where the wind had broken the ice and caused an opening. 
At 11 p. m. we had succeeded in reaching this, and a boat was lowered 
for the examination of a bight. At midnight Captain Hall landed with 
five of us, and planted, in the name of the Lord, and for the President 
of the United States, the American flag on the land which we had dis¬ 
covered. We then returned on board, and let go the anchor at 12.30 a. 
m. of the 5th of September. The place examined proved to be but a 
bend of the coast; we therefore took advantage of the open water 


95 


caused by the easterly wind along the coast, and resumed our search for 
a harbor southward, but not finding any better place we returned in 
the evening to the anchorage, and began immediately to land provisions. 
Snow continued to fall as thickly as the entire day and the preceding 
night. 

Wednesday, the 6th, the weather was pleasant, the sun shining as 
bright as we had not seenhim for sometime. Astronomical observations 
proved the ship to lie now in latitude 81° 38' 2L, longitude 61° 45' W.; 
we therefore had drifted south 47 miles. Toward evening the weather 
changed to a violent snow-storm from the S.W. 

Thursday, the 7th, at 5 a. m., we lifted the anchor, and steamed about 
sixty yards closer in-shore, behind an iceberg which had grounded in 
13 fathoms water, and promised to protect us against southerly and, in 
a part, also westerly winds; it was 450 feet long, 300 feet broad, 
and 60 feet in height above the water. Our main occupation now was 
transporting provisions and stores to the shore. 

Sunday, the 10th, we could not use boats any longer, and in a few 
hours the ice grew thick enough to carry us with the food for the dogs, 
that had been housed on shore. After divine service, Captain Hall 
told us that he would call the place Thank God Harbor, as the Lord had 
not only carried us through the dangers of the ice, but also protected us 
against the imminent peril of an explosion of the small boilers, which 
had not been fed with water, through the neglect of the fireman. 

Monday, the 11th, the ice had grown so firm that we could employ the 
sleighs. 

Tuesday, the 12th, it was cold, and snow fell, the wind blowing- 
strong. Until then the twilight had remained on the southern horizon 
throughout the nights, but these now grew longer, and soon we would 
have, in the midst of the Greenland mountains, the long winter night. 
But why should we fear the darkness around us, if light remains only 
in our hearts? Yes, my Lord, if I have,, only Thee, I do not care for 
heaven or earth. 

In the morning of the 13th the ice broke again at a distance from us. 
The two Esquimaux, Joe and Hans, went on a hunting excursion, and 
brought, late in the evening, three hares; the latter have thick, soft, 
and snowy-white hair, with a black spot behind the ears. A few days 
previously they had shot a seal, a hare, and four geese. 

Thursday, tiie 14th, the weather was beautiful, but toward night a 
southerly gale set in, which broke, half an hour after midnight, all the 
ice in the vicinity, packing it in several places. 

Friday, the 15th, the weather was rough, and it snowed throughout the 
day. 

Saturday, the 16tli, at 9.30 a. m., Mr. Meyer, Mr. Bryan, and Mr. Mauch 
went to a mountain fifteen miles S.E. of us, intending to begin a survey 
from there; they returned at 1.30 p. m., almost frozen, as they broke 
through the ice when passing over it. During the night it froze briskly, 
the cold southerly wind whistling through the rigging. 

Sunday, the 17th, after divine service, Captain Hall enjoined us to 
work hand in hand, like brethren, in order to reach our aim for which 
we had started. He said that he firmly believed it to be God’s will that 
all of the wonderful earth not yet known should be discovered. 

Monday, September 18, Dr. Bessels, with the first mate, Joe, and Hans, 
started ona sleigh, drawn by eight dogs, on a hunting excursion. 

Tuesday, Wednesday, and Thursday the weather remained fine, but 
on Friday, the 22d, it blew a gale from the south, at times so stiff that 


96 


we bad to secure better the observatory, a wooden building which we 
had brought in pieces from New York. 

On the 23d the sun showed a large halo. At divine service, on Sun¬ 
day, the 24th, the sermon and prayer were read by Mr. Braine; they 
had been prepared by liev. Dr. Newman expressly for the expedition. 
At 2 p. m. the hunting party of Dr. Bessels returned with a musk-ox, 
which they had killed the second day out; the meat, skin, and head, 
which they brought home, weighed 309 pounds. The ox, after being hit 
first, was kept at a stand by the dogs trained for it, until the animal 
was brought down by four more balls ; one of the dogs, however, was 
twice thrown high into the air. 

Wednesday, the 27th, the barometer fell suddenly, and at 11 a. m. a 
violent snow-storm commenced, continuing the entire day and the fol¬ 
lowing night. At 4 p. m. the ice broke up and packed. On the 28th it 
again came in commotion, and pushed so heavily against the vessel that 
this would certainly have been crushed if she had not been so strong, 
and the Lord had not protected us. 

Friday, the 29th, a gale from theN.W. sprung up, which abated some¬ 
what toward5 a. m. of the next morning, but blew still quite fresh the 
entire day. 

In the morning of October 1 (Sunday) the gale ceased, and the 
weather remained beautiful throughout the day. After divine service, 
Captain Hall informed us were, from that day, to assemble each morn¬ 
ing at 8.30 in his cabin for prayer. How good is it to serve under a 
commander in whose heart the Saviour has begun the work! We should 
always bear in mind that each day and each hour carries us nearer to 
the end of our pilgrimage, where we have to lay down our staff. I pray 
the Lord to open my eyes that I may look to Him w ith spirited confi¬ 
dence. 

Tuesday, the 3d, we began to remove the provisions to a hill, as on 
the flat ground where they had been placed they were too readily 
covered by snow. 

Thursday, the 5th, Joe and Hans shot two seal, but got only one, the 
other being carried away by the ice, which w T as a mile ahead of us in 
the strait, still drifting. 

Friday, the Gth, at 7 a. m., six of us went out sealing, taking a boat 
along, but we saw the entire day only one seal and one white fox, which 
both escaped. In the following night a gale blew from the east, and it 
was severely cold. 

Sunday, the 8tli, the weather was fine. There was divine service 
from 11 to 12. The Lord wills it, but it is hard, for one who wishes to 
follow 7 Christ to live among worldly people, and to hear the name of 
the holy God taken in vain. We should always remember that we shall 
have to account for every word we speak. 

Monday, the 9th. After much labor w r e now had carried all our things 
safely on the hill. About noon of this day, Captain Hall, accompanied 
by Mr. Chester, Joe, and Hans, started, on tw o sleighs draw n by six¬ 
teen dogs, on an expedition for the purpose of reconnoitering in the 
direction toward the pole. It was his intention to go about hundred 
miles, if possible, in order to ascertain w hether it w 7 ould not be prefer¬ 
able to attempt reaching the pole by the land; it was also hoped that 
musk-oxen w ould be found for furnishing the fresh meat, which in this 
latitude is so very essential for health. 

Friday, the 13th, it blew fresh from the east. One boat had already 
been transported to the shore; we uow 7 carried there a second, also coal, 
w r ood, and other things, so that a stock would be on shore in case an > 


97 


accident should happen to the vessel. Up to then all hands were in 
good health, for which I daily thanked the Lord. God, I pray Thee, let 
me always be obedient to the teachings of Thy holy word with ever 
greater cheerfulness. May never doubt or mockery destroy the consola¬ 
tion alive in my breast. Let my whole life be a praise of Thee. The 
water we used we obtained from ice, which we brought from the hills or 
cut off from the big clumps. Although the latter was frozen salt-water, 
the melted water was perfectly fresh, as the salt works out in course of 
time. The great glaciers consist entirely of fresh water; they are 
created by the snow which settles in the valleys and ravines; in the 
summer this snow melts in the day, but at night the water freezes, and 
thus ice agglomerates to a great amount, moving along each day from 
seven to eight feet. Generally they have a strong foot, which always 
protrudes ahead. When meeting heights in its route, it first fills the 
lower parts and then proceeds onward over the elevation, carrying 
away generally a considerable piece of it. Small elevations it levels 
directly. The place of its origin, its route, and the place of its dis¬ 
charge in the water are marked by the moraine which it throws off to 
both sides,. Locks or debris which fall down upon it from the mountains, 
it throws off to the right; but whenever two glaciers meet on their route 
obliquely, the debris is thrown between them. The earth is everywhere 
the Lord’s; there is evidence even in the highest north that an almighty 
and all-wise Creator has made it. 

Saturday, the lltli, a violent snow-storm from the north set in, blow¬ 
ing to the evening of Sunday. 

October 13, we saw the sun for the last time in 1871; we would have 
seen him to the 17th if the mountains of Greenland had not shut out 
the true horizon. 

Wednesday, the 18th, we began building a snow-wall around the 
ship. 

On the 19th it was bitterly cold, and on the succeeding night a gale 
blew from the south, veering, on the 20th, around to east, and blowing 
then so violently that we could not work outside of the ship. 

On the 21st we spread over the ship a snow-tent of stout sail-cloth, 
leaving only a small opening for ingress. Daylight shortened rapidly. 

Monday, the 23d, snow fell throughout the day, and from 3 p. m. a 
hurricane blew, abating, however, at 8 p. m.' 

Tuesday, the 24th, at 1.30 p. m., Captain Hall returned with Mr. 
Chester, Joe, and Hans. Captain Hall had not felt well for the last 
three days, and laid down to bed immediately. He vomited, had 
cramps, and a violent headache. They had encountered on the expedi¬ 
tion severe cold, and suffered greatly. They had not been able to go 
farther than fifty miles from the ship in a N.E. direction. Animals they 
had not seen, only tracks of the musk-ox. Captain Hall had formed 
the opiniou that it would be easier for an excursion to push north on the 
Grinnell Land side, as Greenland trended too far east. Toward the 
evening.a violent snow-storm from the north commenced, increasing to 
a hurricane of such violence that the ship moved, although inclosed by 
heavy ice and embedded in snow. On the 26th it had already grown so 
dark that we could see the stars throughout the day. 

Saturday, the 28th, it grew dangerous with the captain, his illness 
increasing steadily. He suffered from a concussion of the brain, [ Geliirn- 
schlag —brain-apoplexy, verbally translated,] and his mind wandered 
almost constantly. Prayers and divine service were held forward for 
his recovery. I asked, in the morning, Mr. Braine (Bryan?) about the 
state of his" soul; he answered that he had said that he was not pre- 
7 p 


98 


pared to die. The prayers which I sent incessantly to the throne of the 
Almighty did not satisfy me; I, poor sinner, was anxious to kneel with 
him before God, and to pray for mercy. In the forenoon I asked Cap¬ 
tain Bord (Buddington ?) whether I would not be permitted to see Cap¬ 
tain Hall; I was anxious to watch over him, as he frequently recovered 
his senses, but to my great sorrow I was refused. I was very dissatisfied, 
the more as Captain Buddington was also a brother in Christ. But there 
were some who did not at all believe in Jesus Christ nor in the Bible, 
although our Saviour has sacrificed his dear life for us all and taken 
upon himself the burden of our sins. But I believe that the Saviour 
has worked in Captain Hall before he was struck down by this sick¬ 
ness. 

October 30, we had a snow-storm from the north. 

On November 1 the captain appeared to grow better, as he spoke as 
sensibly as any of us. 

Thursday, the 2d, the weather was beautiful and calm, although 
severely cold. The snow-wall around the ship was seven to eight feet 
thick, and of the same height as the snow-tent. The snow was carried 
to the ship in sleighs from banks, which formed sometimes near the ship, 
sometimes at a distance from it. 

Up to the 3d of November ten dogs had died, six large and seven 
small, two of them on the last excursion. There were fifty-four alto¬ 
gether—six of the Newfoundland and forty-eight of the Esquimaux 
breed. They then were fed only twice a week. My heart would almost 
break when I saw the poor creatures thus starved. He who caused this 
will have to answer for it at the last day. He who delights in the suf¬ 
ferings of a beast will grow cold and heartless, and surely also torment 
his fellow’ men; he never can love God. 

November 5, Captain Hall grew again worse; in the wanderings of 
his mind he said that somebody intended to shoot or poison him. That 
day Hans and Joe harpooned a seal which they had shot at the day 
before, but had not caught; its oil was estimated at 40 gallons. 

On the 6th the weather was mild; snow fell in the evening, ceasing in 
the morning of the 7th. That night Captain Hall had another attack 
of apoplexy, and at 2 it seemed as if he would part life. He lost his 
senses; his face and his tongue were paralyzed; and his hearing had suf¬ 
fered. The next day he lay in a very miserable state, the entire body 
being insensible to the touch. In the evening he was entirely unconscious 
of what occurred around him or was done with him. At 3.25 in the 
morning of November 8, 1871, his soul left the mortal body. I remem¬ 
ber well the day when he attended, with his sister, divine service on 
board at New London. After service he made a speech, saying he be¬ 
lieved firmly that he was born to discover the north pole. After he 
should have set his right foot on the pole, he was willing to die. But 
the Lord had decreed otherwise, and before that aim was reached he 
called out to him, u Man, prepare thy house, because you shall die.” O, 
would this lead us to the Lord, as perhaps soon also our last hour may 
approach. After his death, a coffin was immediately made, into which 
he was placed at 4 p. m. We also began to dig a grave, working at it 
Wednesday and Thursday. The earth was mixed with rock, and frozen 
so hard that, although using axes and poles, we could dig only two feet 
deep. It was done with the light of a lantern. 

Friday, the 10th, at 11.30 a. m., we placed the corpse into the ground. 
Captain Hall had reached, as I was told, the age of 50 years. His body 
rests in the far north, where no civilized human being has ever laid, 
down his head for eternal rest, as the place lies in latitude 81° 38' N., 


99 


502 miles from the north pole. Thus his wish to die in the far north, 
and to rest where he had lived eight years, has been fulfilled. May his 
remains lie in peace till the day of resurrection. 

That day, and Saturday, the 11th, we had a violent snow-storm, which 
abated at noon of Sunday. The velocity of the storm at its height was 
47 miles per hour. This was the first Sunday that Captain Hall was no 
more. I felt the loss severely, but he was now better off than we. The 
rough gales of the cold north and east which blow here will be noth¬ 
ing to him. What is human life but a strife from the cradle to the 
grave ? Blessed is only he who lives with the firm hope that he may find 
beyond the grave a better life. 

Continued observations were now made on the shore, by Dr. Bessels 
and Mr. Meyer, of the temperature, the wind, the deviation of the com¬ 
pass, &c. On board, tidal observations were made every hour, and, at 
times, every ten minutes. 

Wednesday, the loth, at 5 p. m., we saw, for the first time in our win¬ 
ter-quarters, an aurora borealis to the south of us. 

Thursday, the lGth, a violent snow-storm blew till midnight, accom- 
panied by severe cold. 

On the 17th the strait between Hall’s Land (named now by us so) and 
Grinnell Land had not yet closed entirely. It closed occasionally after 
a calm of some days, but opened again for miles with each strong breeze 
creatiug a stronger current. The weather was very unsettled; a dead 
calm would be interrupted suddenly by a violent gale; the same was 
the case with the temperature; one day the thermometer stood at zero, 
the next 20° below. 

Saturday, the 18th, at 7 p. m., a gale sprang up from the north, grow¬ 
ing very severe from midnight to two hours past, so as to attain a ve¬ 
locity of 47 miles per hour. 

Sunday, the 19th, after divine service, Captain Bord (Buddington ?) 
announced that the morning prayers would be discontinued, as Mr. 
Bryne was otherwise engaged; each should pray by himself. Would 
God’s love open the eyes of all kneeling down together! Pray and 
work. I, poor benighted sinner, must confess that I have to contend 
many an hour with enemies within myself and outside, but hope does 
not leave me. When kneeling far north in a dark corner, or beneath 
the starry heaven on a floe, I look with confidence to the mountains 
from which I expect aid. Although not being able to show a single 
deed by which I may stand before the just Judge, I trust to the Lord’s 
mercy. 

Monday, the 20th, at 4 in the morning, intending to examine the tide- 
gauge, I was carried away by the storm and thrown upon the ice, which 
was covered with water; only with great difficuly could I reach the 
opening where the observations were made. The snow-drift did hardly 
permit opening the eyes. It blew so violently that the ship was thrown 
upon one side, bursting the snow-wall. At 9 a. m. Mr. Meyer left the 
vessel to look for Dr. Bessels, who had been all night in the observatory 
on shore; he was driven back about twenty times while endeavoring to 
creep up the hill, but finally reached the house. Joe and Hans fol¬ 
lowed, and at 10.30 all four succeeded in reaching the ship. Dr. Bes¬ 
sels had been without fire since 1 o’clock, for want of coal. He had a 
frozen ear, Mr. Meyer a frozen eye-lid and hands, and Joe the right 
cheek. At 3 p. m. the gale lulled down, but broke out with renewed 
fury at 9.30, attaining a force of fifty to sixty miles per hour, and veer¬ 
ing" constantly between east and north. The thermometer stood at 24° 


100 


below zero. At 1.15 past midnight the ice cracked around the ship, 
and at 2 the snow-wall had sunk to two feet. 

Tuesday, November 21, at 8 a. in., the ice broke all around us, and we 
were in great peril; the snow-drift, besides, made it so dark that we could 
not see anything at a distance of five paces. We let go the second an¬ 
chor ; nevertheless, the ship drifted, but luckily toward the iceberg near 
which we lay, and which had been named, by Captain Hall, Providence 
Mount. Some of us jumped over the few floes between us and the 
iceberg, climbed upon it, and succeeded by 1 p. in. to fasten three ice- 
anchors, to which the ship was secured by hawsers. In the afternoon 
the fury of the gale began to abate; we were able to see a greater dis¬ 
tance, and found that the water was open all around us. 

Wednesday, November 22, the weather w T as again fair, although 
severely cold, the wind being from the east. We now saw that to the 
southward of us, between the iceberg and the shore, there was still a 
strip of ice lying, by which we could reach the coast. Three of our 
sleighs were lost, two of which had already been used by Hr. Kane, but 
luckily all the dogs were safe; they had been taken on board when the 
gale set in, with the exception of two, which were found in their kennel 
on shore. 

Friday, the 24th, the weather was fair and the temperature —23°. 
The observations, which had been interrupted by the gale, were re¬ 
sumed. In the evening we saw electric clouds, w hich Ave had observed 
already occasionally; they were white, combining sometimes, rainbow¬ 
like, into a circle between the zenith and the horizon. 

Saturday, the 25th, in order to bring the ship, which thus far lay at 
the extreme of the iceberg, more toward the center of its long side, 
where it would be better protected, an opening w r as sawed into the ice, 
through which she was mo\ T ed one hundred and twenty feet. 

Sunday, the 26th, divine service was held, but Captain Bord (Bud- 
dington f) announced that attention was not compulsory, but he would 
prefer that all should attend. 

Monday, the 29th, fair weather ; temperature —27°. 

Tuesday, the 28th, it Avas mild ; temperature —6°, but the barometer 
fell slowly. At 8 p. m. a snow-storm set in from S.S.W., Avhich soon 
grew violent, and at 1 o’clock had attained a force of forty-two miles per 
hour, pressing the ice from the strait against our iceberg, which burst 
and parted in two; thus w eakened, it was pushed against the ship, 
shaking her all o\ r er and making her crack in all seams. With ebb¬ 
tide the ship keeled over on one side, Avhile the foot of the iceberg 
pushed beneath her, so as to raise her two and a half feet. She careened 
so heavily that it was difficult to walk on deck. In this perilous condi¬ 
tion it Avas thought proper to carry apparel and other stores on shore, 
as also to place the Esquimaux women and children into the observa¬ 
tory. Toward morning of the 29th the storm w ent gradually down and 
the ice became quiet. The power of heavy ice propelled by wind and 
current is immense ; had the ice inside of the iceberg been equally as 
strong as that pushing onward from the strait, so that it could not 
have given way, the ship would surely have been cut through or thrown 
over. 

Thursday, the 30th of November, the weather Avas fair. Thanks- 
givings-day was observed, but no divine service celebrated. 

Saturday, December 2, mild, beautiful weather, wind variable. At 
10 p. m. it blew strong from the north, but only to midnight. That 
evening we saw three moons besides the true, the four forming a beau¬ 
tiful cross. The same appeared again Sunday night. The ice in the 


101 


strait, which was still open, made considerable noise. The rise and fall 
of tide at lull and change is six to seven feet; during the first and last 
quarters of the moon, one to three feet, depending, however, upon the 
wind. 

December 5, the weather remained fair and mild until noon, but in 
the afternoon a gale arose from the south, increasing in the evening. 
At midnight snow began to fall, when the wind gradually calmed down. 
Dr. Bessels left the ship for the observatory at 2 o’clock past midnight, 
and, although it was only a distance of a quarter-mile, did not reach 
it before 6 in the morning. On account of the difficulty of reaching it 
in dark weather, a wire was stretched next day from the ship to it. 

Sunday, the 10th, the weather was beautiful and mild. In the even¬ 
ing, as on the evening before, the aurora was seen in different forms. 
At one time it showed in the form of an arc, spanning the mountains 
from S.E. to N.W., at an elevation of about 20°. We also saw numer¬ 
ous shooting-stars, sometimes forming, as it were, a silver thread from 
the point where they first appeared to that of disappearance; in a few 
instances I have seen small fire-balls pushing out from them, similar to 
those of a rccket. 

Monday, the 11th, at noon, a strong breeze sprang up from the north, 
veering east toward evening. 

Wednesday, the 13th, beautiful weather; temperature,—13°. There 
has, perhaps, never been an expedition the members of which did live 
so peacefully as we. The Navy Department had directed that, in case 
of Captain Hall’s death, Captain Buddington should take command of 
the ship and Dr. Bessels direct the scientific matters and the sleigh 
expeditious. Should the two disagree, Captain Buddington had to 
carry the vessel home as directly as possible. As long as Captain Bud¬ 
ding held the command, he treated everybody properly; the first officer 
is also an honorable man, who knows how to handle people. O, 
would we thus keep in harmony ! at least, in a worldly way, if not spirit¬ 
ually, as long as we are together, with God’s aid. How beautiful is it 
when brethren are true to each other and live in peace! 

Thursday, the 14th, beautiful weather; in the evening a fresh breeze 
from the N.E., lasting to Friday evening, with snow-drift during the 
night. 

Saturday, the 10th, a storm set in from the east, veering north in the 
morning, when it increased and caused a snow-drift, lasting to Sunday 
night. In the evening there was a w r onderful display of the aurora, 
showing innumerable rays, some of which extended from the southward 
through the zenith to the northern horizon; the northern rays sudden¬ 
ly disappeared and the southerly passed in a great arc from the S.E. to 
the S.W., where they also disappeared; they constantly changed, some¬ 
times shooting from the horizon to the zenith. 

Monday, the 18th, light breeze from S.E.; temperature, —28°. In the 
evening the wind wore south, breaking out in squalls. 

Tuesday, the 19th, at 7 a. in., a gale sprang up from the S.W., lasting 
to 6 a. m. of the 20th. On the 21st, and up to noon of the 22d, the 
weather was beautiful, but then it began to blow fromN.N.W., continu¬ 
ing to the morning of the 23d. At 10 a. m. of that day it again began 
to blow from the east, continuing in puffs and with snow-drift through¬ 
out the day. Toward 6 p. m. it became calm. 

Sunday, the 24th, beautiful weather, with a southerly breeze. In the 
evening (Christmas eve) all hands were invited into the cabin, but I did 
not feel home there, Captain Hall not being any more in our midst. 

On Christmas-day, the 25th, the weather was fine, the temperature 33° 


102 


below zero. I was astonished that there was no divine service, but, 
I believe, in America it is more of a feast-day than a holy-day. 

Thursday, the 28th, the temperature was, after midnight, —35°, and in 
the morning—30°. The ship still careened somewhat with the rise and 
fall of tide, as part of the keel was still resting on the foot of the ice¬ 
berg. We tried to break the latter by blasting, but did not succeed, 
the ice being too strong. 

Friday and Saturday the weather was fair. 

Sunday, the 31st of December, 1871, was the seventy-ninth day we 
had not seen the sun, but the middle of the long night was now passed, 
and the sun was approaching agaiu, having reached, on the 22d, the 
greatest declination, (23° 27' 21." 3.) A small arc of the horizon of 
about 1° 30' was even that day still somewhat illuminated, and we 
never had the total darkness, even in latitude 81° 38', which Kane re¬ 
ported in 78° 38' N. 

Monday, the 1st of January, 1872, I thanked the Heavenly Father, 
who stood by us last year through so many perils, and granted us to 
live into the new year, except the dear captain, 0. F. Hall, who now 
rests in the cold earth of Greenland. But many, besides him, who en¬ 
joyed the best health last New-Year’s Day, have gone, like him, to their 
graves. Our life is like the blossom of the grass. Our years and hours 
pass quickly, and not a moment returns ; it cannot be brought back. 

On the 2d of January we again attempted to blast the ice under the 
ship. After cutting a ditch along the vessel at a distance of fifteen 
feet, four flasks of powder were ignited under the ice, but it was in 
vain; a greater quantity of powder, ignited so near the vessel, might 
have injured it. 

Wednesday, the 3d, beautiful weather, but overcast in the evening. 
Three hours past midnight the wind veered from N. through E. to S.E., 
and back again, in violent puffs. 

On the 4th, toward 7 a. m, a stiff breeze began to blow from N.E., 
continuing to 8 p. m. 

From noon of Saturday, 6th, to Sunday forenoon, the sky was illumi¬ 
nated, almost without interruption, by aurora borealis, at times in a 
wonderfully splendid display of bands following each other over an arc 

of 120°. 

Tuesday, the 9th, in the morniug, the thermometer showed 48° below 
zero, the sky being clear and the stars bright. The weather remained 
fair and cold throughout the day, but at one o’clock after midnight a 
storm set in from the north with snow-drifts. 

On the 10th, at five in the morning, I saw a bright arc in the sky, run¬ 
ning from the western horizon through the zenith to the east, parallel 
with the Milky Way, at the distance of about 12° from it, which disap¬ 
peared about 6 a. m., leaving, however, three clouds of the same bright¬ 
ness near the zenith. Some said that this phenomenon was electric, 
but I did not believe it, as I distinctly saw narrow bright strips running 
from the south into it, which caused the bright color. I considered it 
to be an aurora. During the gale the wind frequently sprung around ; 
it continued so to 3 a. m. of the 11th. At 9. p. m. of that day it again 
began to blow from the north, with a snow-drift, abating Friday, the 
12th, at 11 p. m. 

Throughout Saturday, the 13th, the weather was beautiful, but at 10 
p. m. it changed to a gale from the north, with a force of thirty-nine 
miles per hour, which continued to Sunday morning, 7 a. m. 

Wednesday, the 17th, twilight appeared to the S.E. as early as 8 a. 
m. The strait was not yet bridged by ice. 


103 


Until Saturday the weather remained fine. In the forenoon of that 
day a fresh breeze set in from the W., veering toward evening to S.W., 
and continuing so in puffs. Throughout the night and Sunday the 
weather was mild, with snow. 

Monday, the 22d, wind S.E., with overcast sky. At 2 p. m. it began 
to snow, and a fresh breeze blew from 5 p. m. to 2 a. m. 

Tuesday, the 23d, mild. 

Wednesday, the 24th, calm. At 10.45 a. m. Dr. Bessels, with two of 
the crew, left the vessel in a sleigh drawn by eight dogs, to ascertain 
how far the open water extended north ; they could only proceed nine 
miles north of the vessel, where the water was still perfectly open; 
their further progress was stopped by a cape, which the}' could not pass 
nor climb, as it was too steep and too much covered by ice. The ice in 
the strait was drifting up and down with the current. At 5 p. m. they 
returned on board. 

Thursday, the 25th, thermometer, —24°. At 10 a. m. Mr. Chester and 
four men, in a sleigh, with twelve dogs, left the ship to attempt push¬ 
ing farther north than Mr. Bessels had been able, but did not succeed in 
crossing the mountains, as they everywhere were covered by ice, and 
it was too dark to find a pass ; he returned at 4 p. m. 

Friday, Saturday, and Sunday the weather was quiet and fine; tem¬ 
perature 20°, 30°, and 35° below zero. Monday and Tuesday, mild. 
Wind S. 

Wednesday, January 33, at 3 a. m., a snow-storm from the N.E. set 
in, with a force of 40 miles, increasing on February 1 to a hurricane of 
53.6 miles per hour in force. We had to discontinue the tidal observa¬ 
tions, as we could not keep the opening in the ice free from snow. They 
could not be resumed before Friday. 

Saturday, the 3d, beautiful weather, with a clear sky. Temperature, 
—28°. Some of us attempted to make an excursion north, but could 
not go far. It was wonderful to see tbe great icebergs and masses of 
ice, appearing like a fortress, thrown over each other on the coast by 
the force of the hurricane, to the height of houses, freeing the strait 
perfectly, which now showed only young ice made since. 

Sunday, the 4th, fair weather. Temperature, —30°. In the forenoon 
there was divine service, but it was sad to see that so few took interest 
in the word of the Lord ; not many did attend. 

From 7 p. m. to 7 a. m. of Monday, there was a display of the aurora, 
more beautiful than ever. The entire sky was illuminated from the hor¬ 
izon to the zenith, where the rays met; some were faint, of a bluish- 
white color, others reddish, and at times the northern sky all over deep 
red. Sometimes the rays combined to a screen, passing the zenith and 
disappearing north, but they were soon replaced by others. It was as 
if a regiment of troops retreated before an enemy closing in on therm 
There was a light breeze from the E., the temperature beiug —26 a 
Daylight had increased so much that we could now read the tide-gauge 
without lantern-light for some hours. 

From Monday to Thursday the weather was fine, the wind variable. 
Temperature, —20° to —32°. 

Thursday evening a fresh breeze sprang up from S.E., continuing to 
Friday afternoon. On that day Hans went hunting seal, but did not 
get any ; he saw but one, and heard another one gnawing the ice, which 
they do in order to make holes for breathing. These holes they make 
generally large enough for their head, but frequently they are so small 
that they can only poke in their nose. The seals have an exceedingly 
fine scent, enabling them to ascertain the presence of men immediately. 


104 


They are, however, very inquisitive, and appear to be fond of music, as 
they generally approach cautiously when they hear whistling. 

Saturday, the 10th, mild weather. Temperature, —13°. Light south¬ 
erly breeze with fog. 

Sunday, February 11, at 8 a. in., it began to blow from E.E., increas¬ 
ing to a force of 40 and even 48 miles per hour. In the evening there 
was again an aurora, which now was so frequent that I may not have 
recorded all. Two hours after midnight the gale abated, and the fol¬ 
lowing day, 12th, was fine, with a temperature of —20°. In the even¬ 
ing a fresh breeze from the S.W. set in, continuing to noon of the 13th, 
when the sky, which had been overcast, became clear. 

From Monday till Saturday the weather remained fair, generally with 
a light southerly breeze and a temperature of —30° to —45°. 

Saturday, the 17tli, the barometer fell suddenly, the sky covered with 
clouds, and at 11 p. m. there were violent squalls, alternately from S.E. 
and N.W., until, at 1.45, a gale blew from the S.W., with snow-drift. At 
noon of Sunday it had increased to a hurricane, 58 miles per hour in 
force. This terrible weather continued to Monday, the 19th, 5 a. m., 
when snow began to fall and the wind became variable, but at 8 a. 
m. it grew again to a hurricane from the opposite direction, attaining a 
force of 57 miles per hour. In the morning of the 20th, when snow 
began to fall, it abated somewhat, and calmed down at 3 p. m. These 
gales generally terminate with squalls, decreasing by degrees in vio¬ 
lence. In the evening the sky became clear. At midnight I saw four 
moons besides the true. The latter was encircled by a halo in which 
two of the false moons stood, while the two others were in a second 
halo, concentric with the first, the false moons standing respectively 
JSYW. and S.W., N. and S., of the true. The two nearest to the true 
moon had the colors of a rainbow, the others were faint. It was a 
beautiful phenomenon. 

Wednesday, the 21st of February, daylight had increased so much 
that we could not see any longer the stars at mid-day; we had seen 
them in a clear sky at all times for one hundred and seventeen days. 
Throughout that day the weather was beautiful, the temperature 37° 
below zero. At 10 p. m. a stiff breeze from the north sprang up, veer¬ 
ing, at two o’clock, N.E., increasing then to a gale, with snow-drift. 

Thursday, the 22d, it wore back, northerly, and attained a force of 
forty miles per hour; at 9 p. m. it decreased. Temperature,—39°. 
During the night it blew in puffs from the N.E. 

Friday, the 23d, in the morning, the temperature was as low as —47°, 
and throughout the day not less than —30°, with a variable wind. 
There was much open water in the strait, especially N. 

Saturday, the 24th, the weather was fair, with a light breeze from 
the south. Temperature, —35°. In the forenoon some of the crew 
went four miles north of the ship hunting seal, but where had been 
seen water the day before there was now ice. 

Sunday, the 25th, light southerly breeze. There was no divine serv¬ 
ice, which had been neglected alsothe previous Sunday. 

Monday, the 26tli, it ceased snowing. At 2 p. in."a strong breeze 
from the east set in with snow-drift, and a temperature of—27°. The 
wind ceased at 11 p. m. 

Tuesday, the 27th, overcast sky. Temperature, —22°. In the after¬ 
noon it began to blow from S.E., with a snow-drift, ceasing after mid¬ 
night. 

Wednesday, the 28th, fair weather, with a clear sky and a light 
breeze from the E. Temperature, —22°. At noon we saw T the sun for 


105 


the first time in 1872, after one hundred and thirty-eight days of dark¬ 
ness. Would the horizon not have been covered by the mountains, and 
the sky been clear, we should have seen the upper limb already on the 
25th of February. It was truly a long, dreary night which we had 
passed, by the Lord’s aid, in the midst of icebergs and ice-fields. That 
day I visited Captain Hall’s grave, as I had frequently done. How 
would he have enjoyed it to see again God’s sun. But we all must pay 
to nature the last tribute, and lay down our head to rest. 

Thursday, the 29th of February, there was again a tremendous gale 
from the E., veering, in the afternoon, to K.E., with snow-drift. In the 
evening it attained a force of fifty miles per hour. Temperature, —30°. 
Toward 2 in the morning the gale began to decrease, and from 8 a. m. 
of the 1st of March there was but a breeze from the N.E., continuing 
throughout the day. The thermometer stood for eight hours at 37° 
below zero. 

Saturday, the 2d, stiff breeze from the K.E., with snow-drift, and a 
temperature of 43° below zero. 

Sunday, the 3d, beautiful calm weather. Temperature, —4G°. We 
saw the sun as early as ten o’clock in the forenoon. 

Monday, the 4th, fresh breeze from S.W. Temperature, —40°. 

From Monday to Saturday the weather was changeable, with light 
and strong breezes, the temperature not below —20°, mostly above 
— 40°, and on Saturday —48°. 

Sunday, March 10, a gale blew from K.E., with snow-drift. Tempera¬ 
ture, —35°. 

Monday, the 11th, strong breeze from E.S.E. until evening, when it 
wore to K.E. Throughout the night, and Tuesday, the 12th, until 6 
p. m., a hurricane blew r from the N.E., fifty-five miles per hour in 
force. 

Wednesday, the 13th, the weather w r as delightful. In the morning 
we saw, for three hours, three false suns surrounding the true, and 
then a halo around the true. Tw r o of the false suns had the colors of a 
rainbow, caused by small snow crystals which fell from the sky. 

Thursday, the 14tli, beautiful weather. Temperature, —32°. Hunt¬ 
ing excursions were now made every day, but thus far no seal was shot 
nor any other wild animal seen. Animal life had not yet made its 
appearance. In the fall, when the sun leaves the northern part of 
Greenland, the wild beasts go south, returning in spring after the re¬ 
appearance of the sun. 

Friday, Saturday, Sunday, and Monday the weather was splendid ; 
the temperature between —15° and —30°. 

Friday, the 15th, the tops of the mountains were lighted by the sun 
as early as 7 a. m.—a splendid sight. It grew hardly any longer dark, 
as there was now twilight at midnight. 

Tuesday, March 19th, beautiful weather. That day the snow-tent 
was removed from the ship, so that we did not need any longer to use 
lantern-light in day-time, which had become injurious to the eyes. 
Toward evening the sky became overcast, and at 3 of the next morning 
a violent snow-storm from the east set in, continuing Wednesday and 
Thursday evening and Friday morning. Wednesday the force of the 
wind was forty-six and Thursday fifty-three miles per hour. The gales 
and hurricanes we experienced in our winter quarters were dreadful, the 
contrary of those reported by Dr. Kane. We considered it a hurricane 
when it blew with a force of fifty-one miles per hour. Friday noon we 
examined the traps for wild animals, which we had laid some days pre¬ 
viously, and found a white fox caught at the foot. The traps had been 


106 

placed on the land, at the distance of three to four miles from the ship, 
on account of our dogs. 

Saturday, the 23d, changeable weather; temperature, —20°. Hans 
shot a seal, with a young one in its womb. Both skeletons and the skin 
of the young were preserved for the Smithsonian Institution. 

Sunday, beautiful weather. 

Monday, the 25th, changeable, with a temperature of —25°. The 
twilight at night had now grown so strong that we could read the tide- 
gauge without a lantern. 

Tuesday, the 2Gth, mild, with calm, overcast sky and a light snow-fall. 
Three partridges were seen, the first this year. 

Wednesday, the 27th, the temperature rose to 3° above zero, a warmth 
to which we were not accustomed now. Wind S.E., the light snow-fall 
continuing. Dr. Bessels, Mr. Bryan, and Joe went at 8 a. m., in a sleigh 
with fourteen dogs, on an excursion, intending to examine first a fiord 
emptying into the sea about tw r enty-eigkt miles south of our winter- 
quarters, and then to make astronomical observations and survey the 
coast as far as Cape Constitution, which could not be done by the ship 
when coming up, on account of fog. 

Thursday, Friday, and Saturday there was a light snow-fall, but the 
temperature from 1° to 5° above zero, the sun exerting its influence 
over it. 

Sunday, the 31st of March, the weather was also mild and beautiful. 
Two of the crew, instead of attending service, went out shooting, and 
killed a hare and eight partridges ; these birds are snowy white and 
well covered w ith feathers; they must be approached close in order to 
see them. In the afternoon, Mr. Bryan and Joe returned with the 
sleigh, which had broken, for another. Dr. Bessels had remained with 
the stores on an islet in the mouth of the fiord, where he had found 
many petrefactions. 

Monday, April 1st, Mr. Bryan, accompanied by Joe and Hans, started 
again to join him, taking two sleighs. Throughout this week the weather 
remained fair. The boats were now taken in hand, in order to fit them 
for the expedition to the north pole, in which it was intended to start, 
if possible, in the beginning of May. As the water in the strait 
had remained more or less open throughout the winter, it was thought 
practicable to reach the Pole by boats, probably better than by sleighs 
over the ice in the darkness of the early spring. 

Monday, the 8th, at 11.45 a. m., Dr. Bessels’s party returned; all well, 
bringing as trophies the carcasses of a seal and a polar bear. Of the 
former, Hans had killed two, but obtained only one. Dr. Bessels discov¬ 
ering another fiord to the southward of that to which he went first, had 
divided the party, leaving Mr. Bryan and Hans at the snow-hut built by 
them at the mouth of the northern fiord, while he and Joe did go in one 
of the sleighs with eight dogs to the southern ; and while entering the 
mouth of it they saw tracks of the polar bear, and blood at a hole, 
such as the seal makes for breathing, and where polar bears like to watch, 
for them as their prey. After the examination of the fiord and starting 
back north, Joe suddenly saw the bear; both jumped from the sleigh 
with their rifles, taking hold of the dogs, Joe of five, the doctor of three. 
But these, when they saw the fierce beast coming towmrd them, could 
not be kept back, and had to'be set loose, when they at once made furi¬ 
ously for the bear. After fighting them for five minutes, the latter made 
for Joe, who allowed it to approach within sixty paces, when he fired, 
reloaded quickly, and with a second ball finished the beast, which just 
had started for him again after recovering from the shock. Two of the 


107 


dogs had kept back, but the other six fought bravely; oue of them was 
thrown by a blow from the paw of the powerful beast so violently 
against an ice-clump that it was left for dead on the place, but the next 
morning it had returned to the snow-hut. Three of the dogs were 
wounded most severely, one, called by us Bear, which had firmly imbed¬ 
ded its teeth into the skin of the beast, unmindful of the severe blows of 
its paws. The poor creature, when brought back on board, was barely 
alive, but in a few days it recovered, being nursed carefully by all 
hands. The party had not been able to penetrate into the northern 
fiord farther than twenty miles, as it was full of icebergs, which evi¬ 
dently had come down from the glaciers abounding in the vicinity, but 
they could see from the tops of the icebergs that it extended in a south¬ 
eastern direction as far as the eye reached ; its shores are in part bound¬ 
ed by rocks rising vertically to a height of seven hundred feet. The 
other fiord, where the bear was killed, was found to be thirty-eight 
miles long, also full of icebergs, and surrounded by glaciers. The party 
had gone as far south as latitude 80° 45' N., but did not reach Cape 
Constitution. As Hans had been with Morton when the latter discov¬ 
ered this cape, in Barry’s expedition, and as he states that Morton did 
not go beyond the cape, the latter cannot have reached the parallel of 
latitude 81° N., as has been reported by Kane. Dr. Bessels intended 
to push on farther south, but was prevented by the steepness of the 
coast and the open water almost washing it; they had, at some places, 
to carry their sleighs. The open water extended as far south as they 
could see. 

Wednesday, April 10, the weather remained mild and fair, but 
small snow crystals fell most of the day. From that day the sun did 
not any longer go below the horizon, although hid from us for a few 
hours by a high mountain in our vicinity. From April 12 to 20 the 
weather was still beautiful and calm,but the cold increased to from 10 ° 
to 37° below zero. On account of this uninterrupted fair weather and 
the cold temperature, there was now more ice in the strait than we had 
seen the whole winter 5 no open water at all could be seen from Provi¬ 
dence Mount. 

Friday, the 19th, at G a. m., Joe and Hans went in a sleigh with 
twelve dogs on a hunting excursion. 

Sunday, the 21st, wind changeable 5 in-the afternoon snow fell. 

Monday, fair weather. 

Tuesday, the 23d, at 2 p. in., a snow-storm from the southwest set in, 
ceasing toward evening. 

Wednesday, fair, mild weather. At 9 p. m. it commenced to blow stiff 
from the northeast, with snow until midnight, when the wind increased, 
accompanied by a snow-drift, not ceasing before the evening of the 25th. 
At 11 a. m. Joe and Hans returned from their excursion, bringing four 
musk-oxen. They had shot seven near Newman’s Bay, but left the 
three larger in a snow-hut which they had built, the dogs not being able 
to draw them all. These animals generally herd in a number; they take 
flight when they see men, but not from dogs $ they cannot therefore be 
approached without dogs. 

Saturday, the 27th, mild weather. During the last week we were 
employed carrying the provisions and stores, which had been landed, 
on board. At 10 a. m. Mr. Chester, accompanied by Joe, Hans, and 
F*r. Jamke, left the vessel in two sleighs, to ascertain how far north the 
open water now extended, and on the return to bring home the three 
musk-oxen from the snow-hut. 

Sunday, beautiful weather. 


108 


Monday, the 29th, in the evening, the weather changed to a gale from 
the N.E., which lessened somewhat in the morning of the 30th, but in¬ 
creased again in the afternoon, with snow-drift. The ship careened 
considerably by the pressure of the iceberg against her, by which she 
already had suffered damage, and eight men were employed that day 
in removing the ice, that she might gain room for the tide, and right 
with high water. During the night the gale and snow-drift were quite 
severe, and continued so. 

Wednesday, May 1, at 10 p. m., Mr. Chester’s party returned. The 
bad weather had permitted them to proceed only 20 miles toward New¬ 
man’s Bay; open water they had not seen, as their route was too far 
inland. Newman’s Bay, discovered and named by Captain Hall on his 
sleigh excursion, lies in about latitude 82° N. A cape which the latter 
had discovered in latitude 81° 42' N. was named by him Cape Llibken. 
On the northern side of Newman’s Bay, Mr. Chester’s party had killed 
two musk-oxen. These had taken flight already at the distance of a 
mile, but the dogs caught up with them, and brought them to bay. The 
manner of defense of these animals was remarkable; they kept back 
to back, and, when attacked, jumped furiously five or six paces onward, 
and then retreated again to the same position, until the one was brought 
down by a ball, when the other defended the fallen till it was also 
brought down. In the night the gale abated, and the weather remained 
mild and fair throughout Thursday and Friday. Temperature 5° to 10° 
above zero. Friday evening Joe and Hans discovered, half a mile from 
the ship, the tracks of a polar bear. We were not allowed any longer 
to leave the vessel unarmed. 

Saturday, May 4, in the morning a terrible storm from the N. set in, 
with furious snow-drift, continuing throughout the day, until Sunday 
morning at 4 a. m ; its force was as great as 53 miles per hour. 

Sunday a stiff breeze blew from the N.E. Temperature 5° below 
zero. 

Thursday, the 9th, at 4 a. m., Mr. Meyer, accompanied by Captain 
Tyson, Joe, and Hans, started in two sleighs, the former to survey New¬ 
man’s Bay and take observations, while the latter were to see whether 
they could find open water to the northward, the strait north and south 
of the ship being now bridged by heavy ice for miles. The party re¬ 
turned, all well, Tuesday, the 14th, at 8 p. m. Mr. Meyer had ascer¬ 
tained the northern head of the bay to lie in latitude 82° N.; it thepce 
extended from 60 to 70 miles in a southeastern direction, averaging 7 
miles in width. The party saw no open water besides a few strips where 
current and wind had parted the ice-fields. They had killed eight musk¬ 
oxen and four calves; the latter they had not seen before the old had 
fallen, being hid by their long hair "between the short legs. As the 
sleighs could not carry all this meat, the greater portion was left in a 
snow-hut on the spot. 

Since the last gale the wind had mostly blown from the south, with a 
temperature above zero. 

Friday, May 17, the two Esquimaux, with two of the crew, went in 
two sleighs to Newman’s Bay, for the meat left there, returning Sunday, 
the 19th, at 5.30 p. m., after having killed two more oxen and four par¬ 
tridges. In the afternoon of that day the carpenter found, on an ice¬ 
berg, about three miles from the ship, a dead leming, which evidently 
had perished by starvation. The previous week Kruger and I had 
caught in the mountains one of those animals alive. 

Monday, May 20, beautiful weather. Temperature 20° above zero. 
In the afternoon we transported, by sleighs drawn by dogs and six 


109 


men, one of the boats to the northward of Cape Ltibken, four to five 
miles north of the ship, where, throughout the winter, as long as the ice 
had drifted up and down the strait, the most open water had been 
observed ; the current being there stronger and the ice weaker, it could 
be expected that the latter would break up there first. To attempt, at 
this season, a sleigh excursion for the Pole, was out of question, and 
therefore the boats were to be held in readiness for the earliest chance 
of proceeding by them. 

Tuesday, the 21st, the weather was beautiful. The thermometer rose, 
for the first time in 1872, above the freezing-point. We could now see 
distinctly how the snow disappeared by degrees, especially in the mount¬ 
ains. The salt-water ice also grew soft and watery. At 10.30 a.m. 
Joe, Hans, and two of the crew went for the meat still remaining at 
Newman’s Bay. It had been observed that the musk-oxen came in a 
northwesterly direction from East Greenland. All those that were killed 
were met in the same vicinity, on a plateau which trended from the 
north side of Newman’s Bay easterly between the mountains. 

Thursday, the 23d, at 5.40 p. m., the party returned, bringing with 
them the snow-tents, sleeping-bags, and all the meat. This time they 
had not seen musk-oxen. A fresh breeze blew that day from N.E. 

Friday, May 24, another boat was carried to Cape Liibken. Fresh 
breeze from the S.W. 

Saturday, the 25th, provisions and stores were transported in two 
sleighs to the boats. That day the ice in the strait began to move, and 
narrow strips of open water were seen. Near the boats, which had 
been placed at the distance of about one hundred paces from the water, 
the ice broke and packed. In the afternoon Hans found, about three 
miles north of the ship, and to the southward of Cape Liibken, half a 
mile inland, on elevated ground, an Esquimaux sleigh, partly buried. 
Our men broke off the parts above the ground and brought them on 
board. There was other evidence that Esquimaux had been living near 
the place of our win ter-quarters, at least in summer-time. We had 
already, before the discovery of Hans, seen two spots with marks of a 
camp, at one of which the stones were still in position for fastening 
seven tents, and Captain Bord (Buddington !) had found there part of 
a lance, made from the thigh-bone of a seal. Joe and Hans killed in 
the afternoon a seal. 

Wednesday, May 29, fair weather; light breezes, mostly from S.W. 
Temperature, 25° to 30° above zero. In the forenoon the two Esqui¬ 
maux went in a sleigh on a hunting excursion. 

Thursday, the 30th, at 10.30 p. in., K. Kruger and I left the vessel for 
a walk; we did go as far as twelve miles south of the ship, close up to 
a mountain-ridge, where we found, in several places near some sweet- 
water ponds, tracks of polar bears, hares, and musk-oxen, those of the 
latter being fresh ; and suddenly we saw two of these animals, with a 
calf, resting on the snow at the foot of a mount near one of the ponds, 
about five hundred yards from us. Seeing us, they jumped up, when 
we fired at once our guns at them. While I was reloading, my com¬ 
panion suddenly warned me that one of the animals was making at me 
behind my back, and, looking around, I saw it furiously running against 
me with all its speed. I quickly retreated until ready with my breech¬ 
loader. The beast came to a halt in the mean time, and was joined by 
the others for defense in their peculiar manner. We now fired again, 
but as we did so at a considerable distance, not daring to close in with¬ 
out dogs, only one, the female, fell, when the other, Avitli the calf, took 
flight. As I had no more balls, and my companion only a shot-gun, wo 


110 


did not follow them. We returned on board at 8 p. in., and within an 
hour five of the crew left in a sleigh, with dogs, to bring in the animal 
we had killed, and to hunt up the two which had escaped. They re¬ 
turned Friday, May 31, at (3 a. in., with the three animals, having 
found and killed the two escaped. At 9 a. in. three other men were sent 
with a sleigh for one of the oxen left behind; they returned at 7 p. m. 
The temperature rose that day to 26° above zero, with a fresh breeze 
from the S.W. No open water was seen. 

Saturday, June 1, 1.50 p. in., I, in company with three other men, left 
the vessel in a sleigh, with dogs, for a hunting excursion, taking along 
tents, sleeping-bags, provisions, &c, At 5.50 p. m. we had arrived at 
the place where still an ox lay, killed on the last excursion, about four¬ 
teen miles S.E. of the vessel, at the foot of the high mountains, where 
we erected our tent for an encampment, after having sent William Lin- 
demann back to the ship with the ox. E. Kruger and Fr. Jamke kept 
behind with me. In the evening a storm set iu from the south, which 
continued throughout Sunday, the 2d. In the afternoon of that day 
we went out hunting but did not see anything. Eobert shot, in the 
evening, a partridge, and Frederick a little snow-bird. 

Monday, the 3d, the weather was fine. At 8.30 a. m. we started out 
again, returning at 2.30 p. m., without having seen any animal, but 
numerous tracks and dung of the musk-ox. I found a partridge-egg 
and the head of a musk.ox, the latter apparently having lain there for 
years. I secured the horns, intending to keep them as a memorial, if 
God would permit the ship to return home. In the evening we killed, 
near the tent, three partridges. 

Tuesday, the 4th, we were out from 5.30 a. m. to 11 a. in., bagging only 
three partridges, but we saw everywhere tracks of the musk-ox, as also 
bones and remains of other wild animals. 

At 1 p. m. four others of the crew came in a sleigh to relieve us, and 
at 5.30 p. m. we arrived back on board, all well. The Esquimaux had 
returned Monday evening with two seals, which they had killed in New¬ 
man’s Bay ; musk-oxen they had not seen. 

Tuesday Joe and Hans shot again three seals. 

Monday, May [June?] 3, much water had entered the ship which her 
pumps would not throw out, being probably choked by ice $ the pumps 
connected with the engine had, therefore, to be employed, and kept her 
free by working them for four hours each day. 

Wednesday, May [June?] 5, the ship rising steadily above the ice 
under the influence of the warm weather, w hich now melted the snow 
and ice rapidly, we discovered a dangerous leak on the starboard side 
of the stem at the six-foot mark, where two planks had split from the 
careening of the ship. We hope to be able to return in the vessel, with 
God’s aid, although it is now questionable, as she has suffered much. 
At 11 p. in., when sitting with E. Kruger in our quarters on the berth- 
deck in the fore part of the ship, we distinctly heard the water entering 
her, it then being flood-tide and the wmter gathering around her over 
the ice. 

Thursday, the 6th, we endeavored to stop the leak, but could not do 
much, as the stem proved to have broken too deep below the water¬ 
line. 

Friday, May [June ?] 7, there was considerable open water. At 8 p. m., 
Mr. Chester, Mr. Meyer, Fr. Jamke, Fr. Anting, E. Kruger, and myself 
left the vessel in a sleigh with our things for the boats. 

Saturday, the 8th, in the morning, we brought one of the boats, 
the Grant, into the water, and shipped our things in her. At noon we 


Ill 


started for a reconnaissance. After rowing about a mile, we were 
stopped by an ice-field, on which we drew the boat. In the afternoon 
we transported her over the field about a quarter of a mile, where there 
was again open water. But after working the boat ahead about one 
and a quarter miles, we were compelled to draw her again on a great 
floe between icebergs, which rested with their foot on the shore. 

Sunday, May [June?] 9, at G a. m., Fr. Antinghad the watch. Mr. Meyer 
and Mr. Chester, who had in the evening laid down about twenty yards 
from the boat before we had pitched the tent, lay still there, while 
Jamke, Kriiger, and myself were lying in the tent close to the boat. All 
at once, Anting called out that a great field of ice was approaching 
directly upon us, and before we could leave the tent we were drifting, 
and in a few minutes after one of the icebergs broke by the pressure of 
the field, and, in falling, crushed the boat into a thousand fragments 
before we were able to save it. With God’s aid not one of us, however, 
was hurt, although the three others had but a narrow escape by run¬ 
ning on the shore. After the pressure had ceased, we were able to 
gather but a few things. Mr. Meyer and Mr. Chester rescued most 
of their clothes, but myself and the others lost all except what we had 
on our bodies. Happily we were only seven miles from the ship, and 
reached her in the afternoon safely. 

Monday, May [June?] 10, preparations were made for another boat ex¬ 
pedition in the patent sail-cloth boat, and in the afternoon Hr. Bessels, 
Captain Tyson, H. Hobby, F. Jansen, William Lindemann, and G. Lin- 
quist left in her. 

The Polaris we will hardly keep afloat, as she settles by degrees 
deeper the more the ice upon which the ship rests melts. She now 
makes considerable water, and there are probably more damaged places 
under the bow beneath the water-line. 

Wednesday, June 12, at 10 a. m., we [not stated who; probably Mr. 
Chester’s party, who were to follow Dr. Bessels in another boat.—E. B. 
II.] left the ship and reached at noon the place north of Cape Lfibken 
where our boats stood. Hans and Joe, who had brought us there with 
the dogs, returned here to the vessel. That day the water was not open. 

Thursday, the 13th, in the afternoon, there was a narrow opening, 
"through which we worked two aud one-half miles, when the ice com¬ 
pelled us to draw the boat upon the shore.' 

Friday, the 14th, in the afternoon, the ice separated a little; we 
pushed the boat into the water, and worked two and one-half miles 
north, when we had to draw the boat on a great ice-field, as we could 
not reach the laud on account of icebergs and heavy ice, which had 
packed under the shore. In the evening the wind veered north, increas¬ 
ing to a strong breeze, when the field upon which we were began to 
drift; it was surrounded on all sides by drift-ice, which prevented us 
from reaching the coast, and we could not prevent drifting until 7 in 
the morning of the 15th, when we were set back south of Cape Lfibken. 
At that hour the drift-ice separated from the field, the strong wind 
having opened the water considerably. We immediately pushed the 
boat into the water and rowed uninterruptedly until 7 in the evening, 
when we reached the other party, which had left Monday, on a great 
ice-field, at the mouth of Newman’s Bay, where the ice had not yet 
broken up. Latitude, 81° 55' 26" N. 

Sunday, the 36th, wind baffling; beautiful weather; no open water; 
ice setting south. 

Monday and Tuesday (18th) it blew stiff from the S.W. The entire 


112 


strait was covered with heavy ice, which now drifted rapidly north. 
Throughout the night a gale blew from S.W. 

Wednesday, the 19th, wind baffling; ice everywhere. 

Thursday, June 20, a strong breeze from the north commenced at 
noon. 

Friday, the 21st, storm from the north, with thick fog. The ice coming* 
rapidly from the northward, drifted, heavily packed, southward. In 
the afternoon, light snow-fall, with cold temperature. The storm from 
the north continued throughout the night. 

Saturday, the 22d, beautiful weather, with variable wind. We were 
still together on the same ice-field. 

Sunday, June 23. In the morning we at last saw, north of us, a strip 
of open water, and left the field immediately, but had hardly rowed 
two and a half miles w hen heavy pack-ice advanced upon us rapidly. 
As we could not find in the vicinity an ice-field for a station, the harder 
of the firm ice being covered by packed ice, we were compelled to row 
back half a mile, where we met one, and had barely time to draw the 
boat upon it. The other party had done the same half a mile south of 
us. The position of our field was found to be in latitude 81° 57' 2G". 
In the evening northerly wind set in, blowing strong throughout the 
night. 

Monday, the 24th, the same strong wind continued, with snow- 
squalls. Heavily packed ice drifted continually south past us. 

Tuesday, the 25th, strong breeze from the north with cold tempera¬ 
ture. As our patent boat, the Heckelmann, was not stout enough 
for carrying a heavy load in such turbulent waters, (it was square fore 
and aft, and not faster than at most three miles per hour in quiet water,) 
we had only a scant stock of fuel, and had for the last three days only 
been able to cook coffee once a day ; before that time we had cooked it 
twice a day. Besides the coffee, our meals consisted of bread, pemmi- 
can, and preserved meat, w hich we ate cold. We had no tents with us, 
and for a cover only gutta-percha blankets and our clothes-bags, with 
many holes in them, through which the cold northerly wind readily en¬ 
tered. Frequently when sleeping the ice melted under our bodies, and 
we awoke in a pool of water, our sleeping-bags well drenched. 

Wednesday and Thursday, the 27th, wind north, stormy, with snow- 
squalls and fog, the ice continually drifting south. As provisions be¬ 
came short and the fuel was almost entirely consumed, R. Kruger and 
I, at Mr. Chester’s wish, started at 11.30 p. in. for an attempt of reach¬ 
ing the ship by the land, in order to get more provisions. We went by 
Kewman’s Bay, and it was truly a severe task to climb over the high 
mountains and through the deep ravines where the sharp stones, split 
by the frost, cut through our Esquimaux boots. We made the distance, 
however, in twelve hours, arriving atll.30a.m. of the 28th of June. The 
ice in Polaris Bay had, for the greater part, broken up, and the vessel lay in 
open water, in her old berth close to Providence Mount, which still was 
aground; but she was in a poor condition, making so much water that 
the pumps had to be worked for sixteen hours out of twenty-four. Mr. 
Schumann, the engineer, told me that on the 27tli, while the scruppers 
allowing the water in the ship to flow aft had become choked, so that 
the pumps could not reach the water, much had entered the forward 
store-room and destroyed a great quantity of provisions. Luckily the 
water did not reach the fires; steam could be got up in both boilers, and the 
pumps of the engines be used for freeing the ship. As there were now, 
besides the cook and we two, no sailors on board able to steer the ves¬ 
sel, Captain Bord, would not permit us to leave again ; he attempted to 


113 


take the vessel to the boats, as the water appeared to be pretty open. 
At noon of that day, the ice-anchors were taken in and the ship pro¬ 
ceeded north with steam and under sail, but we had hardly made half 
the distance to Newman's Bay when she was brought up by great ice¬ 
fields and heavily-packed ice drifting down upon her. During the night 
she was permitted to drift under shortened sail with the ice in the 
strait to the southward. 

Saturday, June 20, in the niorning, we again attempted to push on 
north, but failed. At 11 a. m. Hans was lauded at a ravine north of 
Cape Liibken, in order to inform Mr. Chester and Captain Tyson that 
they must come with their boats back on board as early as possible. 
The ship then returned to Providence Mount, where she arrived at 1 
p. m. 

Sunday, June 30, the weather was fair and pleasant. In the morn¬ 
ing we succeeded by great labor, severe for so small a crew, in fishing the 
anchor which had now been lying on the bottom for nine months, and 
had imbedded deeply iuto the mud. 

Monday, July 1, we set Captain Hall’s grave in order, covering it 
with stones, so that the earth could not be blown off, and planting a 
sign-board with the name cut in. That was the last we could do for our 
beloved commander. 

At 8 p. m. Dr. Bessels returned with Hans from Newman’s Bay. 
They had a hard travel for twenty-seven hours, having searched long 
in a ravine for'a place where they could climb up, but with great diffi¬ 
culty. Mr. Chester, having, besides Mr. Meyer, only two men, was 
anxious that another should be sent him; but Captain Buddington 
thought the land-route to be now too dangerous, as the water had be¬ 
gun to pour powerfully from the mountains into the great ravine. He 
preferred another attempt to reach the party with the ship, starting at 
midnight under steam and sail. The wind was from the S.W., and 
from Polaris Bay much open water was visible to the NT. At 1 
o’clock the wind changed to a gale from the N., and at 2 p. m., not 
having made half the distance, we came to the border of ice, which, 
closely packed, was drifting against us. The coast was there too steep 
to climb it. We set sail, and permitted the vessel to drift. At noon 
of the following day we were off the ravine where Hans had been landed 
before. As one man could not go well alone, I was sent by Captain 
Bord [Buddington?] with him. Considerable snow was still lying on the 
mountains. We lauded at 1 p. m. with a small sleigh for transporting 
the bread, fuel, and other small things which the party was in need of, 
but we had not gone the third part of the distance when the sleigh 
broke, and we were compelled to carry each sixty to seventy pounds on 
our backs over the steep mountains and through the deep ravines. It 
was the most trying travel I ever had in my life. In some of the ravines 
the water reached almost to our arm-pits, and we had then to climb up 
their sides on our hands and knees$ but with God’s aid we reached, at 
4 o’clock in the morning of Thursday, the 4th of July, safely, the boat, 
after thirty-nine hours, during thirty-eight of which I had no dry foot. 
Since we had left them they had no chance to move either north or south. 
We carried a letter of Captain Bord [Buddington?] to Mr. Chester, in 
which the former stated that if, after consultation with Captain Tyson, 
they chose to continue their attempt of pushing north in the boats he 
was not the man to prevent it, but in his opinion it was preferable that 
they should return on board, as there was better prospect to push on 
north in the steamer, should a chance offer, than in the boats; we would 
then be able to free the ship from the water by the hand-pumps instead 
8 p 


114 


of the pumps connected with the engine, the coals for which were almost 
exhausted. 

Friday, July 5, Mr. Chester was anxious to reach in the boats at 
least the 83d degree of latitude, from where he intended to proceed far¬ 
ther with the sleighs on Grinnell Land, which extended north ; but Cap¬ 
tain Tyson preferred to go on board, after securing his boat and stores 
on the southern coast of Newman’s Bay in a ravine, one and a half miles 
inside of Cape Sumner. Mr. Chester detached one of his men, Fr. Ant¬ 
ing, to the other party, and as there was no chance at present for Ches¬ 
ter’s party to go on, we all helped Captain Tyson. It took from Fri¬ 
day, 11a. m., to Saturday, 9 p. in., to move the boat with the stores to 
the place selected by Captain Tyson, in which two men narrowly 
escaped drowning. The distance was said to be five miles, but there 
were many bad places, clefts and packed ice causiug difficulties and de¬ 
lays, and we had often to wade through deep water. Having thus se¬ 
cured the boat, Captain Tyson’s party went overland on board. In 
the succeeding night rain fell some hours, for the first time in 1872; 
wind north. 

Sunday, the 7th, wind from the same quarter, and foggy. As there 
still came too much ice down the strait, there was no prospect that day 
of reaching either Cape Benard, on the northern side of Newman’s Bay, 
or Cape Iuricen, on Grinnell Land. Toward midnight it commenced to 
rain, and continued to 5 a. m. of Monday the 8th. Throughout that day 
there was a thick fog with a light snow-fall. The entire strait was more 
full of heavilyqiacked ice than we had ever seen. Light breeze from 
the north. 

Tuesday, July 9, at 3 a. m., a great ice-field drifting upon us, crushed 
the smaller one above that upon which we were encamped, so that we 
then lay in our sleeping-bags not farther than twenty yards from the 
water. During the night and throughout the day there was a light 
breeze from the north, with snow-squalls and foggy weather. Heavily- 
packed ice continued drifting down from the north. 

Wednesday, the 10th, thick fog, with a stiff northerly breeze. At 4 
p. m. the ice opened a little to the southward, and Mr. Chester con¬ 
cluded to take advantage of it for going on board, as there appeared to 
be now no chances whatever for proceeding north in the boat. At 6 p. 
m. the boat was pushed into the water, and we started, but had hardly 
rowed two and a half miles when we were compelled, on account of the 
drift-ice besetting us again closely, to draw the boat on a small ice field. 
Toward the evening the sky cleared and the wind went down. 

Thursday, the 11th, pleasant weather with a light southerly breeze. 
The ice in the strait came to a stand, and remained so nearly the whole 
day. 

Friday, July 12, weather warmer than it had been this year. Light 
variable breezes. The strait packed with heavy ice. 

Saturday, the 13th, in the forenoon a strong breeze set in from the 
S.W. There being no prospect under these circumstances that the ice 
would soon open and allow us to proceed, Mr. Chester deemed it now 
advisable to land the boat and stores by the sleighs and take us on 
board overland. At 2.30 p. m. everything was on the sleighs, and we 
started. The wind increased and, together with the roughness of the 
ice, made progress so difficult that it became necessary to lighten the 
sleighs; we dropped the sleeping-bags and some clothing. When half 
a mile from the shore, on a great ice-field, we left the sleighs in order 
to get the things which we had dropped, and land them first; but on 
the return the wind increased steadily, the puffs which came down 


116 


from the mountains throwing some of us to the ground several times. 
Nevertheless, we had to hasten as much as possible, as the ice bordering 
the shore was fast breaking up. An hour after midnight, at last, we 
reached the land at Captain Tyson’s boat, thoroughly wet and almost 
broken down. To save the sleigh and the boat now was impossible, as it 
blew so violently, .with snow and rain squalls, that at times we could 
hardly keep on our feet. We pitched the tents of Captain Tyson, took 
a scant meal, and lay down. But soon the tents were blown away. 
We then lay down in the boat, which had a canvas cover. There was, 
however, but little rest for us, as in the morning (Sunday, 14tli) the 
boat, with everything in it, we included, was, by a terrible squall, car¬ 
ried a distance over the ground and thrown against rocks, by which two 
planks were broken, so that it now had a great hole in the bottom. We 
quickly jumped out to secure it, but it was caught by another gust and 
turned bottom up. By drawing a line several fold around the boat and 
fastening the ends to heavy rocks we finally succeeded in securing it. 
A quantity of clothing and light things, however, had been blown into 
the water. We then carried the tents a distance into the ravine, where 
we pitched them under the lee of the cliffs, and could now, at 9 p. in., 
seek the rest we so badly needed. 

Monday, the 15th, the storm blew no longer so violently. During the 
night, however, the ice had parted entirely from the coast, so that we 
could not get at our boat and the sleigh. 

Tuesday, the lGth, the storm continued blowing from the S.W. We 
tried in vain to reach the boat; there were too many and too great 
openings between the drifting ice-floes. As there was no chance for it 
before the wind would veer round to the north and set the ice again to 
the shore, Mr. Chester directed Mr. Meyer, Fr. Jamke, and B. Kriiger 
to go on board, while he and I remained to save the boat, if possible, 
with the Lord’s will. Kruger and Jamke left at noon, and reached the 
ship in 12 hours, while it took Mr. Meyer, who left at 2 p. m., 28 hours, 
as he lost his way in the snow-drift, which set in shortly after he lef-t, 
and had to wait behind a rock until the weather cleared again. 

Wednesday, July 17, Mr. Chester and I went along the coast trying 
to find a place where we could get to the boat: At Cape Sumner, the 
southern promontory of Newman’s Bay, we at last espied a chance and 
succeeded-happily, although with great danger, in crossing the broken 
ice and reaching the field upon which our boat was still standing. We 
had left the tent at 3 p. m., and at 6 p. m. the boat was safely on the 
shore. The weather was unsettled throughout the day, with rain- 
squalls, and during the night a gale blew from the S.W., with heavy 
rain, intermixed with snow. In the morning we found that the ice-field 
upon which our boat had stood had been broken up and had drifted 
away with the ice over which we had walked ; nothing but drift-ice was 
now at that place. 

Thursday, the 18th, wind variable with snow and rain squalls. The 
strait beset by the ice everywhere. 

In not one of the former expeditions has drift-wood been found or 
observed in Smith’s Sound, and Dr. Petermann infers from its absence 
there, while it is met with on the east coast and in other parts of Green¬ 
land, that that so-called sound must, in fact, be a bay; but we found 
twenty-five pieces of drift-wood on the strand of the southern coast ot 
Newman’s Bay, about one and a quarter miles inside of Cape Sumner. 
Twenty-four pieces lay in a distance of a quarter of a mile; they were 
from 5£ to 18 [not stated whether feet or inches] in length, and 1J to 4 
inches in diameter, and around some of them was still the inside bark, 


11G 


(Bast.) 1 measured them, together with Mr. Chester. We used it up, 
partly for fire-wood, after drying the pieces still wet. 

Sunday, July 21, wind variable; covered sky. 

Monday, July 22, as the strait continued to be beset by ice, and our 
provisions began to fail, Mr. Chester concluded to go with me on board 
the ship, leaving the boat, with its contents, where it how was. We 
started at 1 p. in., with as much of our clothing as we could carry, and, 
although retarded by a strong wind ahead from the S.W., reached the 
ship at 11.20 p. m. 

In consequence of the great pressure of the packed ice, which had, 
by the southwesterly gales, been driven in great quantities into Polaris 
Bay, Providence Mount had, on the 20th, during the flood-tide, parted, 
and the broken pieces had pressed the vessel upon the strand, where, 
at low water, she had been lying so much on one side that the water 
almost reached the deck. But, when we came on board, she had, with 
God’s help, been floated again, and appeared not to have been damaged 
by it. 

Tuesday, the 23d, beautiful weather, wind variable; everywhere ice. 

Wednesday, July 24, a gale blew from the north, which opened Po¬ 
laris Bay to some extent. The gale lasted until the morning of Thurs¬ 
day, the 25th, when the weather became pleasant, and continued so 
throughout that day. In the afternoon Captain Buddington disconnected 
the pumps of the engine and divided all hands, the women and children 
excepted, into three watches, each of four hours, for pumping by hand. 
But after having been ashore she made not so much water, by far, as 
previously, some of the parted seams having probably closed again. 
As the four pumps did throw out a very great quantity of water, we 
needed to work them only a few minutes each hour. 

Friday, the 26th, beautiful weather, with variable wind. The ice set¬ 
ting close together for a few hours and then at a stand. Saturday, Sun¬ 
day, and Monday (the 29th) the weather remained pleasant. Light baf¬ 
fling breeze. The strait full of large ice-fields and packed ice. 

Tuesday, the 30th, covered sky, with rain. Wind, in the morning, 
N.W., changing at noon to a stiff breeze from the KE., which continued 
past midnight. 

Wednesday, July 31, in Polaris Bay, light breeze from the N.W.,with 
covered sky, and fog for some hours, but north of Cape Liibken it ap¬ 
peared to blow stiff from the N., opening a strip of open water from 
there to Franklin Bay. 

Thursday and Friday, (August 1 and 2,) weather pleasant, with a 
light variable breeze. 

Saturday, the 3d, from 2 o’clock at night to 6 in the morning, strong 
breeze from the east, with rain. 

Sunday, pleasant. 

Monday and Tuesday (5th and Cth) the same. 

Wednesday, the 7th, wind S.W., blowing strong in the strait, but baf¬ 
fling near the ship. At 2 p. m. H. Hobby and B. Kruger started to 
Newman’s Bay for the clothing and other things left there. They re¬ 
turned Friday, at 9 a. m., with as much as they could carry. The 
weather was pleasant that day, and no wind. Some open water was 
visible from the vessel to the southward. As valuable instruments and 
good clothing still remained at Newman’s Bay, Mr. Meyer, G. Linquist, 
and myself went there at 11.20 a. m., and arrived as early as 7 p. m. A 
light breeze from the SAY. had set in in the mean time. 

Saturday, the 10th, at 1 a. in., we left the tent at Newman’s Bay, and 


117 


returned at 11 p. m. to the vessel. Off Newman’s Bay the strait was 
beset all over, not a single strip of open water being visible. 

Monday, August 12, in tlie morning, the wife of Hans gave birth to 
a boy. 

In the afternoon the ice began to loosen and some strips of open 
water appeared. At 4.40 p. m. the vessel left Polaris Bay with north¬ 
erly wind. We worked during the succeeding night, with great diffi¬ 
culty, through the ice until 8 a. m. of the next day, (the 18th,) when we 
were compelled, by the density of the ice, to fasten the vessel to a large 
floe near a small island on the Grinnell Land side, in latitude 80° 48' N. 
We were now without ground-tackle. On one of the anchors part of 
Providence Mount had fallen when it broke, and the other, which was 
dropped when the vessel was pushed by the broken parts of the mount 
against the shore, lay likewise beneath grounded ice. We had left in 
Polaris Bay a considerable quantity of provisions and stores of all 
kinds, except fuel. The boats left at Newman’s Bay we missed very badly. 
We drifted that day with the ice slowly to the southward, there being 
no wind, and the weather beautiful. In the night, when we saw near 
us a strip of open water which appeared to extend several miles to the 
southward, we made repeated attempts, with the full power of the en¬ 
gine, to break through the ice surrounding us, but could not succeed, 
and had to tie the vessel up again. The wind was light from the south¬ 
ward. 

Wednesday, the 14th, at noon, the ice in some places not being 
pressed any longer so densely, we took our ice-anchors in and pushed 
on, with a light southerly breeze and fair weather. At 2 p. m. we 
passed Cape Constitution, in latitude 80° 30' N., and worked steadily 
on until 11.30 p. m., when the ice had closed in again, and nothing re¬ 
mained but to tie up to an ice-field. 

Thursday, the 15th, fresh northerly breeze, driving us with the ice 
slowly to the southward. 

Friday, the 16th, still beset. Light breeze from the eastward. In the 
forenoon we saw near us, close to a small opening, six narwa'ls, [probably 
walrus.] Latitude at noon 79° 59' N. Toward 10 p. m. a thick fog set in. 

Saturday, August 17, a fresh northerly breeze, commencing at 3 a. m., 
diffused the fog, but increased to a gale blowing throughout the day. 

Sunday, the 18th, light breeze from the north. At noon, in latitude 
79° 44' 30" N. We still lay tied to the same floe to which we had fas¬ 
tened on Wednesday; beset by heavy ice in which no opening was vis¬ 
ible. 

Monday, the 19th, beautiful calm weather. At noon we tried in vain 
to change our position to less heavy ice. As the ship might be de¬ 
stroyed any moment by the dense ice incasing her, provisions, stores, 
and fuel were kept on deck ready for landing on the ice. 

Tuesday, the 20th, fine weather; light breeze from S.W. 

Wednesday, the 21st, a fresh breeze from the north set in in the morn¬ 
ing, veering around in the afternoon to the S.W., and decreasing then 
in strength. At noon the fires were drawn, as both boilers leaked and 
had to be repaired. We had now to work the pumps by hand, the ship 
making twice as much water as in Polaris Bay, as she had received 
many hard knocks since we left. 

Thursday, the 22d, during the night, a stiff breeze had blown with 
snow-squall and a cold temperature, but in the morning the wind lulled 
down to a light southwesterly breeze with a covered sky. 

Friday, the 23d, stiff breeze from the S.W., with a clear sky. Lati¬ 
tude at noon 79° 36' N. 


118 


Saturday, fresh breeze from the north; covered sky. 

Sunday, lair weather and calm. 

Monday, the 26th, the same. Observing in the forenoon that the ice 
toward the west coast opened a little, steam was got up immediately, 
but in the mean time it had nearly closed again, and we could only push 
half a mile closer in shore. 

Tuesday, August 27. Light breeze from the north. We had now for 
some days been almost stationary, probably because the ice had packed 
in the narrow part of Smith’s Sound. In the evening the ship was 
towed between the fields about a quarter of a mile. 

Wednesday, the 28th, we saw to the S.W. pretty open water, but as 
the vessel then lay hemmed in between two fields, with some heavy 
pieces fore and aft, we could not move, although we labored the whole 
day to remove these pieces. Light breeze from the east. 

Thursday, the 29th, beautiful calm weather. In the evening we 
again saw a large stretch of open water. The fires were instantly 
lighted, and we labored throughout the night with the full power of 
steam, and besides all hands outside the vessel on the ice, but could 
only carry the ship within about one hundred and fifty yards of the 
open water, where, at 5.30 a. in., we were compelled to tie her up again. 

Saturday, August 31, light northerly breeze with covered sky. A 
few drops of rain fell in the evening. From April 10 to August 26, one 
hundred and forty-three days, the sun had not gone below the horizon. 

Sunday, September 1, light breeze from the north, with covered 
sky and rain. 

Monday, 2d, light breeze from the southwest; obscured sky and rain. 
Toward the evening it began to snow so thickly that we could not see 
the coast, ceasing two hours past midnight, when a strong breeze sprang 
up, blowing till late in the morning. 

September 3, fair weather. Latitude at noon, 79° 34' N. At 7 p. 
m. fog set in, and the wind wore north. 

Wednesday, the 4th, light baffling breeze with fog. 

Thursday, the 5th, fair weather; wind north, light breeze. Latitude,. 
79° 32' 15" N. We tried to stop the leaks of the vessel without success. 
Fog throughout the night. 

Friday, the 6th, fair weather, wind variable. In the morning the 
young ice was already strong enough to bear our weight, where three 
days ago the water had been open. In the shade it froze throughout 
the summer, the rare occasions excepted when rain fell. 

Saturday, the 7th, wind and weather the same as the day before. 
In the evening a strong breeze from the north set in, blowing to Sun¬ 
day evening. Latitude, Sunday noon, 79° 30' N., the ship drifting very 
slowly south. 

Monday, the 9th, light breeze from the north with thick fog. 

Tuesday, Wednesday, and Thursday, September 12, light northerly 
breeze, and for the most part obscured sky with fog. 

Friday, the 13th, light breeze from the north. Latitude 79° 21' 30" 
N. The sun sets now as early as 8 p. m., and does not rise before 5 
o’clock. 

Saturday, the 14th, fair calm weather. 

Sunday, the 15th, light breeze from the northeast, with fog. 

Monday, the 16th, fair. In the afternoon Hans shot a seal. 

Tuesday, the 17th, light northerly breeze. Latitude at noon, 79° 19' 
50" ]ST. 

Wednesday, the 18th, fresh breeze from the north. Hans shot a seal 


119 


in the forenoon, and Joe saw two walrus, one of which he wounded, but 
it escaped. In the night snow fell for some hours. 

Thursday, the 19th, light southerly breeze with dark sky. We again 
tried in vain to stop the leak; the engines had to pump constantly. 

Friday, the 20th, a gale from the north commenced in the morning. 

Saturday, the 21st, snow fell for some hours of the morning, when 
the storm abated, ceasing in the evening nearly entirely. We had a 
small boiler on board, so arranged that the water could be heated by 
oil. Mr. Schumann connected this with the engine in order to work, 
with the steam thus raised, the small pumps. By 1 p. m. he had it 
working, and was now able to save two-thirds of the coal used hereto¬ 
fore. 

Monday, the 23d, light northerly breeze. 

Tuesday, the 24th, stiff breeze from the north with heavy snow from 
4 to 11 a. m. 

Wednesday, September 25, light breeze from the south with snow in 
the morning, increasing an hour after midnight to a snow-storm. 

Thursday, the 22d, at 8 a. m., the storm abated, and toward evening 
the snow also ceased. 

Friday, the 27th, fresh breeze from the south, with obscured sky, in¬ 
creasing at 4 p. m. to a gale, which abated at 4 a. m. of Saturday, when 
it remained quiet. The seal killed that week by the Esquimaux were 
very welcome, the meat for food and the blubber for fuel. 

Sunday, the 29th, fresh breeze from the north, with cold tempera¬ 
ture. 

Monday, September 30, light northerly breeze. There were this morn¬ 
ing quite a number of open places north and soutlTof the ship, and also 
near her the ice began to work with great noise; but the fields still in¬ 
casing her prevented us from reaching the opening to the southward. 
At noon we were in latitude 79° 02' K. Since August 15, when we tied 
up the ship to the ice in latitude 80° 02' K, we had drifted, in one and 
a half months, 60 miles to the southward. During the night there was 
a thick fog, caused evidently by the open water; it did not rise much 
above deck, and in the rigging the sky was quite clear. The thermom¬ 
eter fell to 1° and 2° below zero, for the first time in the autumn of 1872. 

Tuesday, October 1, beautiful clear sky, light breeze from the north. 
Much open water to the southward, the ice around the ship continuing 
to work powerfully, x>iling the young ice, which averaged six inches in 
thickness. 

Wednesday, the 2d, in the forenoon light northerly breeze, veering 
south in the afternoon, with fog. We were about twenty-three miles 
N.W. of Kane’s winter-quarters, and could see the harbor plainly in a 
clear sky. The ice still very unquiet. 

Thursday, October 3, fair and clear. Latitude at noon, 78° 58' 30" 
K. In the forenoon Joe shot a seal eight feet in length and six feetMn 
circumference. It was a great luck that these animals were so abun¬ 
dant. Mr. Meyer, having the [word omitted; probably “scurvy”] in a 
high degree, grew much better by using the meat and blood of them. 
That day we began to erect a house on the ice-field to which the ship 
was fastened, as the latter was in great danger of being crushed, and, 
moreover, the winter now approached fast. 

Friday, the 4th, light northerly breeze. We worked on the house. 
Four seals were killed that day. 

Saturday, October 5, fresh breeze from the N., cold. We were en¬ 
gaged to alter the snow-cover, which had, last winter, been stretched 
over the ship, into a cover for the house. 


120 


Sunday, the 6th, light northerly breeze. Light snow-fall in the morn¬ 
ing. Latitude 78° 57' 28" N. 

Monday, October 7, mild, with light northerly breeze. Worked on 
the house, and carried ice into the ship, which Mr. Schumann intended 
to use for the small boiler working the pumps, as the salt water had 
crystallized in it to a great extent. In the afternoon Joe shot a seal and 
discovered that he had been tracked the day before close to the ship by 
a polar bear, which the dogs had not scented, the wind being against 
them; they are generally very keen in this respect. 

Tuesday, the 8th, light northerly breeze. Worked on the house. 
Latitude 78° 47' 45" N. 

Wednesday, the 9th, light breeze from the N. We carried a store of 
bread into the house. In the afternoon one of the crew saw a polar 
bear between the ice-fields, at a distance of a mile from the ship. Lat¬ 
itude, 78° 45' K 

Thursday, the 10th, fresh northerly breeze, overcast. 

Friday, the 11th, the same. Saw much open water. 

Saturday, October 12, we had a gale from the N.E., with cold tem¬ 
perature. Much open water. Drifted more rapidly to the south. We 
were now about three miles from the coast of Greenland. This week 
the Esquimaux had killed ten seals and seen one narwal, [probably wal¬ 
rus.] 


\ 


121 


DIARY OF WILLIAM MORTON, SECOND MATE OF TELE 
POLARIS, WHICH WAS FOUND ON THE ICE. 

1871. 

Arrived at Fiskerneas, Greenland, July 27, at 4 p. m. Called for tlie 
purpose of securing the services of Hans Christian, the Esquimaux 
hunter, who accompanied Dr. E. K. Kane in his arctic expedition. We 
were disappointed, having learned he was living at Upernavik. 

August 19.—Arrived at Upernavik. 

October 24.—Sledge party returned to the ship, having been sixteen 
days absent. They reached the latitude of 82° 5' N. Lost two dogs by 
death ; shot two seals, but could not get them. Saw tracks of musk-oxen, 
rabbits, foxes, &c. In half an hour after they arrived Captain Hall 
took a severe turn of illness. The party were Captain Hall, Mr. Ches¬ 
ter, Joe and Hans, hunters and dog-drivers. 

Open water and young ice to the N. and W. 

October 25.—Weather overcast and cloudy. Fed the sledge-dogs with 
seal-meat. Stopped with Captain Hall from 2.30 until 10 a. m., who is 
still very ill. 

October 26.—Captain nail remains confined to his bed. Joe and Hans 
went to open water in search of seals; fired at one but did not get it. 
Clear weather. Two stars visible at noon. Banking around ship. 

October 27.—Captain Hall seriously ill, and Dr. Bessels has no hopes 
of him. He told Chester and myself so. Joe and Hans preparing to 
go on a musk-ox hunt. Crew banking round the ship. Two stars visi¬ 
ble at noon ; weather clear. Y r oung ice making on the water. Ther¬ 
mometer 89. 

November 11.—This morning Captain B. took possession of all the 
keys composing of ship’s stores, and also of Captain Hall’s effects, for 
which from this date I will not consider myself responsible for what 
may hereafter happen. Reported (?) yesterday the store-rooms were 
opened occasionally by the crew. 

November 21.—Broke adrift from our position alongside of Providence 
Berg, which prevented us from drifting out in the pack. Let go star¬ 
board anchor and made fast to ice berg by hawsers. 

November 28.—A gale from southwest. Drifted Providence Berg in¬ 
shore. Broke the ice all around and pressed the vessel hard on the 
young ice formed in shore of us. 

November 30.— Celebrated Thanksgiving, viz: Oyster-soup, lobster, 
turkey, vegetables, fruit-pies, plum-pudding with brandy-sauce, cheese, 
coffee, crackers, almonds, raisins, walnuts, wine, &c. 

December 1.—Mild weather. Got ice from berg. 


1872. 

February 28.—Thank God Harbor, Polaris Bay, latitude 81° 38' N. ? 
longitude — W. Saw the sun for the first time at ll h 47 ra 0 3 .2, after an 
absence of one hundred and thirty-six days. Celebrated sunrise with a 
glass of wine. 


122 


DAILY JOURNAL OF SERGEANT MEYER, KEPT WHILE 
DRIFTING ON THE ICE. 

October 15.—Heavy S.E. and S. gale, with heavy snow fall; at G 
p. in. ice on the starboard set off, apparently by the action of two ice¬ 
bergs, which, indistinctly, might have been seen at' a short distance. 
Big floes, driven by these icebergs, grazed along the ship until finally 
one (by passing rather close) sent the ship all a trembling and cracking 
in her timbers; the ship was lifted out of the water at least six 
feet, and the general belief was that the skin ot the vessel was 
breaking; orders to “ heave over” were given, expecting a sudden 
catastrophe about the vessel. But, strange, after some hard work, both 
on ship and floe, the ship became eased again, and the floe to which we 
were fastened broke up, at least at the edge, into small pieces; the lines 
which held the vessel broke off; the ship went adrift, leaving the 
greatest part of the crew, Captain Tyson, and myself on the ice. With 
difficulty we reached the remainder of the floe, and found ourselves in 
possession of two boats, some clothes-bags and musk-ox skins, fourteen 
cans of pemmican, fourteen hams, some can-meat, a small bag of choco¬ 
late, the tent built on the floe previously, and twelve bags of hard bread 
therein; besides an U A” tent, instruments, chronometer, &c. The floe 
kept on breaking off at the edge, and a continual removal of our stores, 
therefore, was necessary; we worked steady and hard until about 12 
o’clock, night, and then, exhausted, laid down in the drifting snow and 
fearful tempest. All my papers and records are lost. 

October 10.—Next morning wind had somewhat abated, and we 
found ourselves wedged in between an iceberg and land, which I took 
for Northumberland Island. Packing up, we left with the intention to 
round the iceberg and floe by boats, and reach the land; but ice closed 
in before we succeeded, and were compelled to take up our abode on the 
floe once more. Then the ship was seen under full steam and sail, head¬ 
ing (from a northerly point) toward the island. Later the ship ar¬ 
rived in harbor, between McGary Island (small) and Northumber¬ 
land Island, and a new attempt to reach shore was made by pulling one 
boat across the floe, and then taking to the water; but again the*setting 
in of the ice and of a northeast gale defeated us. Pulling the boat 
upon the ice, we left it, and returned to provisions and other boat. 

October 17.—During the night northeast gale blew with full force, and 
continues now. Of the entire floe only a small piece is left us. The 
other boat, big tent, and part of the bread, &c., gone. We are far 
away from land. It is evident, as soon as this gale abates, we will have 
to arrange matters, and prepare for wintering on the floe without fire, 
unless the Esquimaux (Joe and Ilaus) are fortunate enough to kill a 
sufficient number of seals. 

October 18.—All provisions in our possession will last us four 
months at the rate of three-quarters of a pound per day to the man. 

October 22.—We have drifted between Northumberland and Wolsten- 
holm Islands; sometimes close to the land. More or less heavy winds 
have prevailed, mostly southerly. We have settled down on our small 
piece of ice. Three snow-huts are built, for Hans’s family, Joe’s family, 
and ship’s crew. Three seals have been shot, and we live on two meals 
a day, which each consists of a small piece of seal meat, boiled on an 
Esquimaux lamp, the soup given off by this meat, and about an ounce 


123 


of bread. To-day a new addition to our snow-encampment has been 
made in form of a half-hut, joining by an entrance the hut of the crew. 
At present Captain Tyson and I occupy this new apartment as sleeping- 
room. If fortune would laugh on us, and send us plenty of game in 
the form of thirty or forty seals, (so as to secure a little light and fire 
besides the meat,) we might be able to weather out the winter, and finally 
arrive safely in some port of Greenland. What I regret most is the 
loss of my iiapers and records. With it a great many astronomical 
observations, all observations in reference to surveys, observation on 
magnetic horizontal intensity, meteorological observations, (hourly and 
corrected,) all comparisons for the verification of meteorological observa¬ 
tions, &c., have left my possession. 

October 23.—The wind still keeps up, (mostly from a southerly direc¬ 
tion, but at intervals from N. and N. E.) Till now I have neglected to 
name the inhabitants of our snow-village. The roll is as follows: 

ADDITIONAL APARTMENT. 

1. Captain Tyson. 

2 . Frederick Meyer. 

Crew's hut. 

3. John Heron. 

4. E. W. C. Kruger. 

5. Frederick Jarnka. 

6 . William Kindeman. 

7. Frederick An thing. 

‘8. Gustavus Linguist. 

9. Peter Johnson. 

10. William Jackson. 

Joe's hut. 

11. Joe, Esquimaux. 

12. Hannah, Esquimaux. 

13. Puuuy, Esquimaux. 

Hans's hut. 

14. Hans, Esquimaux. 

15. Hans’s wife, Esquimaux. 

16. Augustina, Esquimaux. 

17. Tobias, Esquimaux. 

18. Succi, Esquimaux. 

19. Hans’s baby, Esquimaux. 

At about noon Joe sung out, “ I see the boat,” and certainly, by aid 
of glasses, we all saw the boat at about three miles distance to the east¬ 
ward. Joe also thought he saw the big canvas tent. Just about then 
breakfast was ready; an extra allowance of bread was issued, and we 
all started out to get the boat, and, if possible, the bread, in the house. 
We arrived at the boat, (taking the dogs with us,) cleaned the latter of 
snow, and, with dogs and our own strength, pulled her across to the 
west edge of the floe, which existed yet nearly to its entire extent. 
The crew then went over to the tent, and carried the bread over to the 


124 


boat. Starting anew, we pulled the boat, (with all the bread in it,) over 
hummocks, but most young ice, and arrived safely at our encampment 
at about dusk, (5 p. m.) By this fortunate expedition we gained the 
second boat, two boat compasses, one can of pemmican, twenty-seven 
two-pound cans of preserved meats, and six bags of bread, (most of 
them big bags, containing in all likely eight hundred pounds.) It then was 
decided to start anew next morning, if weather would permit, with 
the intention to reach the house once more, build a sled of a lew 
planks and poles, which are in the house, tear the house down, and 
bring all over to the encampment. This was to be done by half of the 
crew and dogs, while the other half watched their movement, and be in 
readiuess with a boat in case of necessity. 

October 2 4.—It is blowing, and unless the wind moderates we dare not 
cross over to the house. It remained more or less windy all day, but 
still in the afternoon; four of the crew went over to the house, and car¬ 
ried back all boards and one plank. 

October 25.—It is almost calm, but a little thick ; still I think it pos¬ 
sible to cross over to the house, cut it down, and bring it over here. For 
this purpose, Joe and Hans are now busily engaged to build a sled of the 
plank brought to our encampment yesterday. Four men and the two 
Esquimaux, with sled and dogs, crossed over to the house, and returned 
with about half of the poles of which the house-frame consisted. It will 
be utterly impossible to make any observations while bound to this floe, 
inasmuch we are nearly entirely destitute of light. 

October 26.—Moderate breeze from the E.; temperature at 2 p. in. +5°. 
Sun showed 25' of her disk at 12.35 p. m. Four men and two Esquimaux, 
with sled and dogs, again went to the house, and returned with the re¬ 
mainder of the wood and half the canvas. All remaining on the big floe 
is enumerated by half of the canvas and two bags of coal. While the 
party was on the floe in order to load up the sled, two dogs (which, at 
the breaking up of the floe-edge on October 15, were left on one of the 
pieces of ice with provisions on) made their appearance, and great hope 
is entertained at present that we may be able to recover said provisions 
and (what is more to me still) Mr. Bryan’s and my own papers. 

October 27.—Heavy breeze from the N.E., moderated toward morning, 
clear j 10 a. ra., temperature -4-2°.5; wiud E., and still more moderating. 
Bobert and the two natives (separately) went out in search of the pro¬ 
visions mentioned above; the natives were also to look out fcTr seals. 
The sun showed 10' of her disk. Part of the crew went across to the floe 
for the two bags of coal and remainder of the canvas. Temperature at 
2 p. m. 1°.5. Bobert returned, but had no tidings of the provisions. 
Joe and Hans have returned, and relate that they have fallen in with 
track of the dogs, (which joined our party yesterday,) and are determined 
to follow it up to-morrow. I hope they will succeed. 

October 28.—Calm and clear during night; stiff breeze from the E. in 
the morning. Nevertheless, Joe and Hans are starting out with sled and 
dogs. They have returned, compelled to do so by a rather fierce wind, 
after following the dogs’ track for some time. The wind compels us to 
turn in after 4 p. m., on a cold meal of bread and pemmican. 

October 29.—Still a stiff breeze from the E. blowing. Bobert built the 
stove, Joe the alley-way, and so at dinner our cook-house was finished. 
I at the same time had the scale finished, and six pounds of food were 
weighed out for the whole company’s supper. 

October 30.—Calm and clear. Natives have been out, but, besides see¬ 
ing several seal-holes, brought no news of any importance. 

October 31.—Calm and clear. Natives have gone out to search for a 


125 


route to shore. It has been concluded to take proper meals to day; and, 
if the ice remains quiet over night, to make a start toward shore to¬ 
morrow. 

November 1.—Calm and clear. Two heavy boat-loads, containing all 
provisions, clothing, and beds, have been moved over to the big floe: 
one sled-load almost removed all the remainder. Kiaks, fire-wood, can¬ 
vas, and some of Joe’s goods are on the old piece yet. 

November 2.—The ice between the two pieces of ice has opened; natives 
started early with a sled and found it so. Desperate efforts on the part of 
the natives; Bill, the cook, and little Bill and Bobert, succeeded in 
removing on the quickly-formed young ice, kiaks, and the most valuable 
part of the goods from the other piece on to the big floe. They also built 
a snow-house for the accommodation of the crew. 

November 3.—Thick and snowing; it is thought that we are adrift; if 
so, our hopes of getting back to the Polaris will not be gratified; all 
hands busy in building hut for Joe and a cook-house; breezing up in 
the evening. 

November 4.—Calm and clearing up; floe surrounded by water; drifted 
about six miles to the southward; we are now below Wolstenholm 
Island; Joe and Hans went out hunting, but returned without game; 
some wood was got from the place where the big canvas hut stood. 
We have come back to the old allowance of three-quarter pound of 
food. 

November 5.—Clear; blowing from the N.W. and N.; no work done, 
but compelled to stay in doors. 

November 6.—Clear and moderate breeze from 21. and 2LE.; we have 
drifted to the southward and westward; Joe and Hans went out seal¬ 
ing; Joe returned with a seal, of which we had a proper meal of raw 
and cooked meat. 

November 7.—Fair in the morning; snowing and light breeze during 
fore and afternoon; Joe and Hans w 7 eut out hunting, but without suc¬ 
cess. 

November 8.—Breezing up during night; snow drifting. 

November 9.—Fair and calm in the morning; breezing up during fore¬ 
noon; Joe and Hans out hunting. 

November 10.—A moderate breeze; mostly clear; snow drifting; wind 
nearly N.; it appears that we are drifting very rapidly, and have by this 
time passed the Carrey Islands. Joe and Hans went out hunting after 
breakfast, or dinner, (whatever we may call it;) Joe returned before 
dark set in, but flans was missing yet at 8 p. m. Bobert and Joe went 
in search of him, and finally picked him up, Hans having lost his 
route. 

November 11.—Still blowing from the northward, and snow drifting 
heavy; w T e have come down to one meal. 

November 12.—Clear; blowing from the northward, but no snow 
drifting. Judging by the amount of light we have now daily, it ap¬ 
pears that our drift keeps nearly up to the recession of the sun in 
south declination. 

November 13.—Thick and snowing; light breeze; another load of 
wood was got from the place of the big canvas hut, and another snow- 
hut was commenced to store provisions in, and to serve as reserve-hut 
in case one of the others should break do\vn; calm and clearing in the 
evening. 

November 14. — Light breeze aud snow in the morning, clearing 
toward noon; suow-hut comp’etcd. 


126 

November 15.—Calm and thick toward noon; breezing up from the 
S.E., with snow-drift. 

November 10.—Cleariug; northerly wind, but light. 

November 17.—Almost clear; northerly wind (stiff breeze) and 
snow-drift. 

November 18.—Wind KW.; stiff breeze ; low temperature. 

November 19.—Clear, light breeze from the W. 

November 20.—Clear and almost calm. 

November 21.—Cloudy, but calm ; moved into the new snow-hut, which 
is more comfortable than the old one ; Joe and Hans caught a seal each. 

November 22.—Calm and clear; Joe shot a seal; more or less water 
around the floe. 

November 23.—Light northerly wind and cloudy; Hans shot a seal. 

November 24.—Light northerly wind and calm. 

November 25.—Clear and calm during forenoon; clouding up, and 
N.W. breezes during afternoon. 

November 26.—Cloudy and westerly breezes. 

November 27.—Cloudy and thick; light snow at intervals; westerly 
breezes. 

November 28.—This day is celebrated as thanks giving, by change of 
food ; in regard to quantity, we cannot allow much more than our usual 
ration ; cloudy and westerly breezes. 

November 29.—Thick; light westerly breeze. 

November 30.—Calm and almost cloudy ; clear at the S.E.; land in 
sight, bearing apparently S.S.E. or S. 

December 1.—Calm and clear; low temperature; Fred, encountered a 
bear, but his gun proved defective. 

December 2.—Thick and stiff N.W. breeze; wind abating and clear¬ 
ing up; land in sight, apparently some part of the west coast of the 
channel. 

December 3.—Light N.W. breeze; clear and quite light. 

December 4.—Light N.W. breeze, and thick ; temperature at 2 p. in., 
—9°; fair and calm toward evening; in our snow-hut temperature gen¬ 
erally keeps one or two degrees above zero, 

December 5.—Light N.W. breeze, and almost clear; temperature, 
—15° ; Bill shot a white fox, who had come up close to our encampment, 
as he had done several times before. 

December 6.—Splendid auroral display during the night; a dark seg¬ 
ment over the horizon, extending from E. to W., whereof bright luminous 
streamers issued up to a height of about 30° ; light N.W. breeze in the 
morning, and fair; temperature, at 12 in., —4° and rising to —1°; wind 
veering to the west. 

December 7.—Cloudy and light breeze from the west; clear and light 
southerly breeze toward evening; a clear sky and clear horizon south 
give me an opportunity to take the meridian. Altitude of y Cassiopem 
over the ice-horizon ; the approximate declination of y Cassiopem taken 
from a star-chart, (fortunately in my possession,) permitted me to find 
as an approximation to our real latitude the value 74° 4' K The chro¬ 
nometer time of Z, taken at meridian passage of y Cassiopese, furnished 
an approximation to our longitude, which was found to be 67° 53' W. 

December 8.—Cloudy; light southerly breeze; temperature —5° at 1 p. 
m.; —12° at 3 p. m.; wind veering to the W. and N. of W. 

December 9.—Cloudy; moderate breeze from the N.W.; temperature 
low and falling, ranging from —13° to —18°. 

December 10.—Stiff KW. breeze during night; wind abating toward 
morning; clouded over; temperature at 10 a. m., —17°; even while the 


127 


sky is cast over we have considerable light at 10 a. in., Thank God 
Harbor time; light sufficient to read the thermometer accurately; dur¬ 
ing the day temperature fell to —21°. 

December 11.—Clear and calm ; temperature at 12 m., —26° ; Hans 
caught a white fox by means of a trap. 

December 12.—Westerly wind and fair; temperature at 12 in.,—21°.5. 

December 13.—More Or less cloudy; westerly wind ; temperature at 
1 p. m., —19°. 

December 14.—Beautifully clear and calm during night; temperature 
at 6 a. in., —25°; at 12 m., —25°.5; cloudy; clearing up during after¬ 


noon. 

December 15.—Cloudy; light westerly breeze ; temperature at 12 m. 
— 20 °. 


5 


December 16.—Cloudy; moderate westerly breeze ; temperature at 11 
a. m., —3°; at 4 p. m., —1°. 

December 17.—Cloudy and thick, almost calm ; temperature at 12 m., 
—4°; snowing in the evening; temperature at 7 p. m., + 1°.5. 

December 18.—Cloudy and almost calm; temperature 11 a. m., +5°. 

December 19.—Fair; stiff northerly breeze; temperature at 11 a. m., 

+ 20. 

December 20.—Cloudy; light westerly breeze, and considerable twi¬ 
light, which permitted to read at 2 p.m.; temperature at 1 p. m., +4° ; 
water at the edge of the floe ; seals seen by Joe and Hans. 

December 21.—Cloudy and thick, but sufficient light at 10 a. m. to 
read print; stiff northerly breeze ; temperature at 10 a. m., +9°; at 
12 in., +6°; even at 3 p. m. the light was sufficient to read the ther¬ 
mometer. 

December 22.—Calm and clear, very light; more so than it has been 
for some time past; temperature at 12 in., —14°. 

December 23.—Light northwesterly breeze; land sighted, bearing 
about S.S.W. and 8.W., but apparently rather far off; temperature N 
at 11 a. m., —9°. 

December 24.—Stiff northerly breeze; snow-drift during the night; 
auroral streamers during the night; at 6 a. m. beautiful corona, with 
flashing light extending from E. to W. through the southern sky; tem¬ 
perature at 12 in., +4°. 

December 25.—Light northerly breeze; calm; temperature —1°. Christ¬ 
mas was celebrated by us with an extra meal, (Christmas dinner,) con¬ 
sisting of two biscuits, one-half pound of ham, and blood-soup each. 

December 26.—Northerly gale and heavy snow-drift during night; 
somewhat decreasing toward morning; temperature at 10 a. in., +12P. 

December 27.—Light northerly breeze; cloudy; temperature from 
+ 5° at 10 a. in., to +8° in the afternoon. 

December 28.—Almost calm; water making to the east and northeast¬ 
ward; temperature from +3° to +1° ; cloudy. 

December 29.—Fair and light northerly breeze in the forenoon ; tem¬ 
perature from —4° to—6°; at noon ice commenced moving and cracks 
opened; Joe shot a small seal; at the same time it breezed up and snow 
drifted from N. and N.W. 

December 30.—Almost clear; stiff breeze from N.W.; temperature at 
11 a. m., —10°; west coast in sight, but distance considerable. 

December 31.—Almost calm, with exception of very light southerly 
and northerly breezes; clear; temperature from —21° to —23°. 

January 1, 1873.—Almost calm and clear; temperature from —25° to 
—29°; hazy and light S.E. breeze in the evening. 


128 

January 2 .—Wind changeable, but light 5 hazy 5 temperature from 
—18° to —230. 

January 3.—Stiff KW. breeze; fair; temperature at 10 a. in., —23°. 

January 4.—Stiff N.W. breeze; fair; temperature at 12 m., —24°. 

January 5.—Light or moderate westerly breeze; fair temperature at 
9 a. m.,—24°. 

January 6 .—Calm or light southerly breeze ; clear; temperature from 
—22° to —25°. A clear sky and horizon give me an opportunity to take 
meridian altitudes of Polaris and y Cassiopeae. Approximate latitude, (by 
means of declination taken from a star-chart,) calculated by Polaris, 
72° 03' 30" N.; by y Cassiopeae, 72° IP 1ST.; mean, 72° 07' 15" N. Ap¬ 
proximate longitude by y Oassiopeae, (right ascension taken from star- 
chart,) 60° 40' 45" W. Our fire-wood (including one boat used for heat¬ 
ing two meals a day) being used up, we managed to warm our meals by 
means of an Esquimaux lamp. 

January 7.—Clear; light southerly breeze; temperature from —25° to 
—30o. 

January 8 .—Fair, but clouding up ; light southerly breeze; tempera¬ 
ture from —27° to —30°. 

January 9.—Clear and almost calm; temperature in average, —35°. 

January 10.—Clear; light S.E. breeze; temperature in average, —30°. 

January 11.—Fair ; light N.E. breeze ; temperature, —33°. 

January 12.—Clouding up ; more or less strong breeze from N.W.; 
temperature, —33°. 

January 13.—Calm and clear; temperature from —38° to —40°. 

January 14.—Thick and light snow ; moderate N.E. breeze ; tempera¬ 
ture, —16° at 10 a.m.; temperature rising to — 12 ° in the afternoon ; wind 
veering to N.W. and W.; setting in of W. gale. 

January 15.—W. gale continues; heavy snow-drift; temperature falls 
to —17°; wind quieting toward evening. 

January 10.—Thick; stiff N.W. breeze; temperature from —31° to—25°; 
Hans shot a seal—a most fortunate incident, inasmuch it permits us to 
warm our food for perhaps eight days longer; in another day or two we 
would have been compelled to live on three-fourths pound of dry cold 
food per day. 

January 17.—Fair; stiff N.W. breeze; temperature,—25°. 

January 18.—Fair; heavy N.W. breeze and snow-drift during night; 
slowly abating during day ; temperature from —27° to —28°. • 

January 19.—Clear; almost calm; sun appeared above the horizon, 
remaining there for above two hours, and dipping at 10 minutes past 
one o’clock, Thank God Harbor time; her meridian'passage was ob¬ 
scured by an iceberg; it is likely that the upper limb showed above the 
horizon on the 18th, but such could not be observed on account of the 
above mentioned iceberg; temperature from—27°to—32° ; Joe and Hans 
shot two seals at a distance of five miles from the floe, where they found 
a large space of newly-made ice leading across the channel; only one 
they were enabled to get and fetch home, leaving the other one among 
the young ice. 

January 20.—Fair; almost calm; temperature, at9 a. m.,—33°. Early 
in the morning I took sights of Polaris and y Cassiopeae at their lower 
culmination, and determined our approximate latitude and longitude to 
be 70° V 40" N., 60° O' 36" W. 

January 21.—Almost clear; light but sharp northerly breeze; tem¬ 
perature, —36°. 

January 22 .—Clear and almost calm; clouding up and light S.E. 
breeze toward evening; temperature from —39° to —32°. 


129 


January 23.—Fair; light N.W. and W. breeze; temperature from—31° 
to —35°. Joe caught a small seal in a seal-hole. 

January 24.—Thick and light snow ; light S.E. breeze; temperature 
from —23° to —21° ; Joe and Hans returned from hunting with a seal,, 
shot by Hans in a seal-hole. 

January 25.—Clear; light N.W. breeze; temperature from —34° to 
below —40°. 

January 26.—Clear; light N.W. breeze; temperature, at 10 a. m., be¬ 
low —40° ; Joe shot a seal in his hole, and fetched him home ; the same 
seal had been previously shot by Hans at another hole. 

January 27.—Clear; light S.E. breeze; temperature below —40°; 
toward evening S. and S.E. breeze increased ; temperature rose to—34°. 
Sights of Polaris, y Cassiopese, and the sun give a mean determination 
of latitude to 69° 32' 1ST.; longitude, to 60° 03' W. 

January 28.—Clear; wind light and changeable; temperature be¬ 
low —40°. 

January 29.—Clear; frost-smoke at the horizon; light S.E. breeze; 
temperature below —40°. 

January 30.—Fair; almost calm; —34° temperature; during afternooe 
a breeze from S. and S.W. sprung up, sky clouded up, and temperaturu 
rose rapidly to —24°. 

January 31.—Cloudy and thick; light S.E. breeze; temperature,—19°; 
toward noon wind veered to E. and N.E.; temperature tell to —24°; to¬ 
ward evening wind veered to N.W. and W., and increased to a heavy 
breeze ; temperature fell to —26°. 

February 1.—W. heavy breeze increased to a gale during night; some¬ 
what abating toward morning ; heavy snow-drift; cloudy; temperature 
from —22° to —19°. 

February 2.—W.N.W. breeze, abating slowly; thick; light snow to¬ 
ward night; temperature from —19° to —16°. 

February 3.—Cloudy; very light S.S.W. breeze; temperature rising 
from —16°; at 10 a. in. —13°. 

February 4.—W. gale commencing at midnight; thick and heavy 
snow-drift, abating during afternoon; temperature, while gale lasted, 
—10° ; falling when abating. 

February 5.—Moderate breeze from the S.W., S., and S.S.E. during 
morning; fair; temperature at 8 a. m. —17°, and still falling; latitude 
by _©, 68° — 50'; Hans shot a seal; wind veers to W. and N.W. 

February 6.—Moderate 1ST. W. breeze ; thick ; temperature, —10°; dur¬ 
ing afternoon wind veers to N.E. and S., and blows heavy in the even¬ 
ing for a short duration ; during the veering of the wind temperature 
rises to —5°. 

February 7.—Fair; wind W. and moderate; temperature falls during 
the night, and in the morning varies from —24° to —26°; Hans shot a 
seal; unicorns seen. 

February 8.—During night clear, and temperature falling; at 7 a. m. 
—30°; rising from 8 a. m.; —18° at 2 p.m.; stiff S.E. breeze springs 
up toward evening; temperature rises to —16° ; unicorns seen. 

February 9.—During night wind veers by the N. to W., and increases 
to a gale; somewhat decreasing during day; temperature, —10°; uni¬ 
corns seen; heavy snow-drift. 

February 10.—W. wind increases again during night; temperature, 
— 10°; heavy snow-drift; calming down during day, and temperature 
decreasing to below —20°; Joe shot two seals. 

February 11—Breezing up after midnight from the KW.; tempera- 

9 P 


130 


ture rising; breeze and snow-drift increasing during day; temperature 
rising to —7°; thick. 

February 12.—Heavy N.W. and W. breeze continues; snow-drift; 
temperature, in average, —10°. 

February 13.—Heavy west.breeze continues; temperature, in aver¬ 
age, —10°. 

February 14.—Heavy W. breeze, somewhat abating; fair; tempera¬ 
ture at 8 a. m., —16°; calming down and clearing up toward evening; 
temperature falling to —19°; Hans shot a seal. 

February 15.—Thick ; breezing up from the W. toward morning; snow¬ 
drift; temperature at 8 a. m., —15°. 

February 16.—Calm and light W. breezes; varying temperature. 

February 17.—Calm and light W. breezes; varying temperature; 
temperature rising from —30° toward —20°; Hans shot a seal. 

February 18.—Heavy W. breeze and snow-drift; fair sky; tempera¬ 
ture, —25°. 

February 19.—Light ST. breeze'; clear; temperature from —24° to 
r- 14°; Cape Walsiugham and Pawn Bay in sight, the first bearing about 
S.S. W.; Joe shot a seal; ten dovekies were shot also. 

February 20.—Thick; temperature from —8° to —4°; light E. breezes; 
considerable leads of water on all sides; thirteen dovekies shot. 

February 21.—Thick and cloudy; calm; light southerly breezes; 
temperature at 7 a. m., +6°; rising during the day to +10°; Cape 
Walsingham and Sire Inlet appear now to be about twenty 7 miles off. 

February 22.—Thick and cloudy ; calm during day; breezing up to¬ 
ward evening from the S.E.; temperature at 6 a. m., +5°, rising dur¬ 
ing day and coming up to +24°, with the S.E. breeze. Preparations 
are being made for an early start toward shore. 

February 23.—Heavy S.E. breeze during night, abating toward 
morning; thick and snowing; temperature remains above +20° dur¬ 
ing S.E. breeze; at 8 a. m. the wind shifts to the W., and temperature 
falls to +15° and +12°. 

February 24.—Fair; moderate N. breeze ; temperature varying from 
—8° to +2°; Cape Walsingham bearing S. and getting closer; Joe 
shot a seal. 

February 25.—Fair in the morning; clouding up soon after; calm 
and light N.E. breeze; temperature from —9° to +5°; light snow in 
the afternoon. 

February 26.—Light N.W. breeze, and calm ; fair; temperature from 
—24° to —10°; starting for shore has been given up, and, therefore, 
in order to make our provisions hold out until the 1st of April, our 
allowance had to be reduced to seven (7) ounces of uncooked food per 
day. 

February 27.—N. breeze; fair; temperature at 7 a. m., —25° ; a bear 
has been disturbing Joe’s hunting-gear, which he keeps not far off the 
hut; he is following up the bear’s track; six dovekies shot. 

February 28.—Stiff N.W. breeze; fair; temperature from —28° —20°; 
thirty-nine dovekies shot. 

March 1.—Moderate N.W. breeze in the morning; calming down to¬ 
ward noon; fair ; 65 dovekies shot; temperature from—34° to—18°. 

March 2.—Moderate N.W. breeze; fair temperature, from—31° to 
—19°. Joe shot an uktshuk measuring 7 feet 8 inches in length; 42 
dovekies were shot also. 

March 3.—Stiff N.W. breeze; hazy; temperature from —23° to —20°. 

March 4.—Clear and calm; temperature from —27° to —6°, and 
—34°; 4 dovekies shot. 


131 


March 5.—Fair; moderate N.W. breeze; increases to heavy breeze, 
and shifts to W.N.W.; heavy snow-drift. 

March 6.—Heavy W.N.W. breeze, and snow-drift continues ; fair; 
temperature, at 3 p. in., —20°. 

March 7.—W.N.W. breeze somewhat abated; fair; temperature, at 7 
a. m., —23°; heavy pressure on our floe during night; temperature rising 
to —20° during day, and falling to —23° toward evening. 

March 8.—Calm and fair; temperature from —30° to —13°. 

March 9.—Calm and thick; light N. breeze ; rising during day; tem¬ 
perature, —22° at 6 a. m., rising to—10° toward noon ; N. breeze increas¬ 
ing to heavy blow and snow-drift; toward evening the floe is cracking 
in all directions, and we are compelled to keep ourselves and all neces¬ 
saries of life ready in case of a sudden disaster. 

March 11.—N. gale still continues; thick and heavy snow-drift; 
toward evening the floe cracks into still smaller pieces close to the huts; 
temperature, +5°. 

March 12.—Gale abating toward morning, and clearing up; the floe 
has completely broken up; the piece left to us is very small; but the 
number of huts is complete, and nobody lost; clouding up during the 
day, and wind shifting to S.S.E.; temperature, from +1° to fl-15°; 
Joe shot two seals, and Captain Tyson one seal; five dovekies shot; 
Hans shot another seal; latitude by 0^, 64° 32'. 

March 13.—Stiff breeze from the N. and W.; ice grinding; thick in 
the morning; clearing up in the afternoon; temperature, from 4-4° 
to —4°. 

March 14.—Wind abates toward morning; clear; clouding up, and 
light S.E. breeze toward noon; temperature, from —8° to +14°; Joe 
shot one small seal, and one uktshuk; latitude by G), 64° 19' N.; Joe 
shot another seal. 

March 15.—Moderate W. and N.W. breeze; shifting; clear and fair; 
temperature, from —5° to +10°; large body of water S.E. 

March 16.—Thick and calm toward morning ; temperature, ^-89, and 
soon rising to —10°; large bodies of water in all directions; unicorns 
seen and shot at. 

March 17.—Bear-tracks found close to the hut; chase after one early 
in the morning; thick and light snow; light N.E. breeze in the morning; 
light S.W. breeze in the evening; temperature, from —5° to +18°. 

March 18.—Fair; moderate N.W. breeze; temperature remaining 
below zero, from —13° to —5°. 

March 19.—Fair and moderate N. breeze; temperature, from —18° 
to —4°. 

March 20.—Fair and moderate N. breeze; temperature, from —11° to 
—4°; Hans shot a small seal. 

March 21.—Clear and light N.W. breeze ; Joe shot six seals and Hans 
one. 

March 22.—Clear and calm; light N.W. breeze in the afternoon ; tem¬ 
perature, from —10° to +15°; Joe shot two seals; latitude 62° 56'. 

March 23.—Fair; heavy N. breeze; temperature, from —5° to +8°; 
Joe shot a seal. 

March 24.—Thick and light snow in the morning; fair remainder of 
day; moderate N. breeze; temperature, from —5° to +8°; Joe shot 
a seal. 

March 25.—Fair; light N. breeze; temperature, from —6° to +7°; 
Joe and Hans shot a seal each; latitude by j©, 61° 59'. 

March 26.—Clear; moderate N.W. breeze; temperature, from —4° 
to +9°; Joe shot four bladder-noses and Hans one. 


132 


March 27.—Cloudy ; moderate N.W. breeze ; temperature, from ±0° 
to +20°; late in the evening a middle-sized ice-bear found liis way to 
our huts, and was seen tirst by Captain Tyson, who called Joe; Joe 
called all hands, who jumped out with pistols and guns in their hands, 
and soon killed the ice-bear. 

March 28.—Thick; moderate northerly breeze; temperature, from 
+3° to +10° ; icebergs collecting around us. 

March 29.—Fair; W.17.W. breeze, (moderate;) temperature, from 
—1° to +9°; water closing in upon us from all sides. 

March 30.—Heavy W.17.W. breeze during night; surrounded by 
water; passing icebergs; small ice passing; wind somewhat abating 
toward morning; cloudy and changeable; temperature, from +G° to —. 

March 31.—Heavy W.KW. breeze ; thick; Joe shot a bladdernose 
and two young seals; Hans shot one young seal; latitude 59° 4L'. 

April 1.—Light breeze 17.17. W. ; left snow encampment, and pro¬ 
ceeded to the S.W. in the boat; throw meat overboard; wash-boards to 
the boat fixed ; selection of clothing made ; three seals shot. 

April 2.—Part of the floe we had pulled up upon the preceding day 
broke off during night; started 5 a. m.; worked oars; heavy breeze 
from the S.W. springing up; pulled up upon a piece of ice; boat stove; 
mended with uktshuk skin ; shot one seal. 

April 3.—Started at 8.45 a. m.; head wind ; used oars until the wind 
veered to the H.N.W., when the sail was set; hauled out at 2.30 p. m.; 
pack close; stops our progress; caught a number of seals. 

April 4.—Wind 17.E., (light breeze;) we opened and we started at 8.45 
a. m ; 2 hours’ run, when we closed, and we hauled out; latitude, 56° 47 / . 
Blowing heavy in the evening, (KN.W.;) heavy swell from the east. 

April 5.—Gale from the 17.E.; heavy swell; two pieces of our floe 
broke off; removed our boat several times; sea washing over the piece; 
pitched tent at dark, and set watch. 

April 6.—Gale from KW.; heavy swell and sea; another piece of our 
floe broke off; only a small piece left; standing by the boat ready for 
a jump. 

April 7.—■W.N.W. gale; heavy sea and swell; ice broke under the 
tent while dividing some bread and pemmican for breakfast; no sight 
for seals; set watch, in two reliefs, of half of our number. 

April 8.—Ice broke at midnight, between tent and boat; I was left 
with the boat; snowing; heavy sea - ; gale from W.17.W.; 1LE. wind 
outside of the pack. 

April 9.—Heavy wind from the H.W.; heavy sea; latitude 55° 5P 
17.; sea washing over the piece ; stauding by the boat; land seen to the 
westward; 12 o’clock, night, we closed in; pitched tent and turned in 
by watches. 

April 10.—Calm and cloudy; quiet during night, (pash-ice.) 

April 11.—Calm and cloudy, (pash-ice;) saw fox,some land-birds, and 
crows; icebergs passing close to ns. 

April 12.—Light S.E. breeze; light swell, (pash-ice;) saw seals, but 
cannot get them ; fine weather; latitude 55° 35' 17. 

April 13.—Light S.W. breeze; ice opened during the night, and closed 
again toward morning; slack during the day; saw seals, but cannot 
get them; latitude 55° 23' 17. 

April 14.—Light 17. breeze; pash-ice close ; saw seals, but cannot get 
them; latitude 55° 13' 17. 

April 15.—Light 17. breeze; snowing during the night; ice close; 
fine weather; latitude 54° 58' 17. 

April 16.—Moderate breeze from 17.17.W.; ice close; no swell; watch 


133 


at night, hourly relief; pemmican nearly entirely used up; reduced 
our allowance of pemmican and bread. 

April 17.—Light breeze from W.N.W.; ice close; latitude 54° 27' N. 

April 18.—Light N. breeze; Joe shot a seal in a crack ; divided into 
sixteen shares ; land in sight in the morning, bearing S. and S.W.; ice 
slackening; crows, land birds; ducks seen. 

April 19.—Light N.W. breeze; ice slack; thick; breezing up from 
the W. toward evening; swell; evening sea washes out of the tent; 
standing by the boat during entire night; sea washing over us; ice 
pelting out our feet. 

April 20.—Launched the boat at 7 a. m., and arrived safely on a small 
piece of ice; went after seal in the boat; turned in by reliefs; sleeping 
in the boat; lost tent. 

1 April 21.—All persons wet through; light N.E. breeze; ice close; 
atitude 53° 57'. 

April 22.—Snow and rain during night; thick in forenoon ; ice close; 
only ten biscuits left to supper for the whole party; shot bear. 

April 23.—Light N. and N.E. breezes; raining and cloudy. 

April 24.—Light X. and N.E. breezes ; raining. 

April 25.—N.E. gale during night; raining; heavy swell; launched 
boat at 5 a. m.; hauled out after eight hours’ pull; great number of seals 
seen ; some of them shot. 

April 26.—Started at 6.30 a. m ;‘ pulled up two hours afterward and 
repaired keel of boat; shot some seal; latitude 53° 30 7 N. 

April 27.—Snowing in forenoon ; clearing up in the afternoon ; large 
body of water making outside of us; cannot get to it. 

April 28.—W. gale; heavy sea running; water washing over the floe; 
standing by the boat during night; snowing during night and forenoon; 
launched boat at daylight and proceeded by oar, and also by sail for a 
short distance; heavy sea and southerly gale blowing; pulled up at 6 
a. m.; turned in for a few hours ; launched the boat again at 1 p. m.; 
proceeded by oar; shot some seals; saw steamer; pulled up at dark; 
night clear. 

April 29.—Blubber-fires during night; morning, fine and calm; 
sighted steamer five miles off; launched the boat at daylight, and pro¬ 
ceeded for two hours; encountered close pack; pulled up on piece of 
ice; set signal and fired shots for steamer; saw land in the morning; 
latitude 53° 04' N. 

April 30.—Kept fires during night; picked up by Tigress at 5 a. m. 


134 


DIARY OF JOHN HERRON. 

October 15.—Gale from the S.W.; ship made fast to floe; bergs 
pressed in and nipped the ship until we thought she was going down; 
threw provisions overboard, and nineteen souls got on the floe to re¬ 
ceive them and haul them up on the ice. A large berg came sailing 
down, struck the floe, shivered it to pieces, and freed the ship. She 
was out of sight in five minutes. We were afloat on different pieces of 
ice. We had two boats. Our men were picked up, myself among 
them, and landed on the main floe, which we found to be cracked in 
many places. We remained shivering all night. Saved very little pro¬ 
visions. 

October 16.—Morning fine; light breeze from the N.; close to the E. 
shore. The berg that did so much damage half mile to the N. E. of us. 
Captain Tyson reports a small island a little to the north of the berg 
and close to the land. Plenty of open water. We lost no time in 
launching the boats, getting the provisions in, and pulling around the 
berg, when we saw the Polaris. She had steam up, and succeeded in 
getting a harbor. She got under the lee of an island, and came down 
with sails set—jib, foresail, mainsail, and staysail. She must have seen 
us, as the island was four or five miles off. We expected her to save us, 
as there was plenty of open water, beset with ice, which I think she 
could have gotten through. In the evening we started with the boats 
for shore. Had we reached it we could have walked on board in one 
hour, but the ice set in so fast when near the shore that we could not 
pull through it. We had a narrow escape in jumping from piece to 
piece, with the painter in hand, until we reached the floe. We dragged 
the boat two or three hundred yards, to a high place, where we thought 
she would be secure until morning, and made for our provisions, which 
were on a distant part of the floe. We were too much worn out with 
hunger and fatigue to bring her along to-night, and it is nearly dark. 
We cannot see our other boat or our provisions. The snow-drift has 
covered our late tracks. 

October 17.—Strong wind from the S.E. The ice broke up again. 
Our boat and everything we have left are going. We are afloat on a 
very small piece, with very little provisions left. It is blowing a gale, 
and threatens to be a very severe night. 

October 18.—Light breeze from the S.W. Plenty of open water. Joe 
caught a seal. 

October 19.—Wind the same. Joe caught two more seals. 

October 20.—This morning thick snow-storm. All are Avell. 

October 21.—Light wind from S.E. Building snow-houses; finished 
one; we sleep in it to-night. 

October 22.—Weather very thick; snow falling. Building snow- 
houses for the Esquimaux, and one more for ourselves, as the first is 
too small. 

October 23.—Wind light and S.E. With the aid of our marine-glass, 
to our great joy we discovered in the distance a boat, and, at some dis¬ 
tance therefrom, the tent. The ice for a few miles between us and the 
floe which they are on is very thin, but we must risk it, as we have six 
bags of bread there, forty-five pound-cans of pemmican, and two dozen 
cans of meat. Returned to headquarters weak, but thankful to God. 
Rejoicing in our good fortune, we treated ourselves to a good supper, 


135 


thanking’ God for onr increase of stores. We have now eleven bags 
of bread, thirteen cans of pemmican, eleven dozen cans (pint and 
quart) of meats, soups, with some green corn, and fourteen hams. My 
bag of clothing I found in the boat. 

October 24.—Weather thick and cold. Four men made another trip to 
the tent to bring some planks with which to make a sleigh. All are in 
good health. 

October 25.—This morning thick, with light wind. Half of the men 
have gone to the tent with the sled made this morning, drawn by the 
dogs. The rest of us are remaining here by the boat ready to shove off 
in case the ice should open. Evening the men returned with a sled¬ 
load of poles. All well. 

October 20.—This morning clear, with a light breeze. Another jour¬ 
ney to the tent brought off the remainder of the lumber, and some 
canvas. Found two more dogs. There is one more load left on the floe. 
The remainder of the men staid by the boat as before. All well. 

October 27.—Clear, with light wind. We have brought the remainder 
of our tent and two bags of coal off; that is all we can find. Three 
men have been out in another direction, but have found nothing. 

October 28.—This morning clear ; strong wind ; very cold. Tried to 
make a cooking-stove; wind too strong and too cold. 

October 29.—This morning very cold and stormy, but clear. The land 
in sight all the time. We have got our cook-house at work. All well. 

October 30.—This morning clear; light wind. The Esquimaux went 
hunting, but caught nothing. 

October 31.—This morning cold, but fine. Sent Joe and Hans with a 
dog-team to see how the ice will stand, as we intend starting to-morrow 
for shore. If the ice stand good we shall be there in two or three days. 
We have eaten as much as we could to-day to get strength for the 
journey. We have been living very poorly so as to make our provisions 
last six months. If we can reach the shore we can live better, as we 
may kill some game. 

November 1.—Started to-day for the large floe four miles distant, and 
one-third of the distance, I should say, to the shore. After a hard day’s 
work we succeeded in getting two boats and our provisions off, also 
one sleigh-load of bed-covering, skins,*aml canvas, and some poles; 
leaving three bags of coals, the only ones we had left. We left a great 
many poles, some canvas, two kyacks, and other things; among them 
two boxes of clothing belonging to Joe, tools, and other very useful 
articles, which are a great loss to us. 

November 2.—This morning we were surprised to find the ice open and 
water all around us. We started before daylight with the dogs and 
sled, not knowing what had happened until we had nearly driven into 
the water. There was no wind, so all the mischief was done by the 
high tide at night. The ice closed in a little. We tried again, leaving 
the dogs and sled on the E. side of the floe, and ventured across on 
the other floe. We saved one rake, some of Joe’s clothing, three guns, 
and a few other things. When the men returned to the crack it was 
opening. They got across just in time, as the ice opened and the floe 
has not since been seen. 

November 3.—This morning snow T -storm. Building snow-houses. All 
well. No chance now of getting ashore; must now give that up. 

November 4.—Snow-storm. Still building snow-houses. 

November^ .—Blowing a gale from N.W. Snow drifting. The men 
cannot leave the hut, the weather is so severe. 

November G.—Captain Tyson ill with a severe cold, and pains all over 


136 


liim. The weather mild; light wind. Joe caught a seal, which has 
been a godsend. We are having a feast to-night, three-fourths of a 
pound of food being our allowance. Mr. Meyer made a pack of cards 
from some thick paper, and we are now playing euchre. Plenty of 
water around us. We are a good deal further from the land, and are 
drifting south pretty smart. 

November 7.—Captain Tyson better. Wind strong, snow drifting, 
weather thick. 

November 8.—Weather very bad. We cannot leave the hut. . 

November 9.—Weather the same; very severe. We are prisoners in 
the hut. 

November 10.—Wind strong; snow drifting. We are drifting fast 
to the south. The west land is not to be seen. The Esquimaux are 
out hunting. Joe has returned late; Hans has not come yet. Joe and 
Eobert have gone in search of him. He had left the floe for another 
one, and with great difficulty found his way back very late. They 
saw him coining, dressed in skins and covered with snow, and took him 
for an ice-bear; loaded their pistols and made ready, when, to their joy, 
they found it was Hans. 

Monday, November 11.—Wind strong; snowed in, and drifting fast. 

Tuesday , November 12.—Eather strong breeze; snow drifting a little. 
Took exercise to-day. Water around ns ; drifting south fast. 

Wednesday , November 13.—Light wind; snow falling; very mild. 
Building a snow-house for a reserve—a very large one. Peter sick. 

Thursday, November 11.—Cloudy ; light wind. Building and exercis¬ 
ing. All well. 

Friday, November 15.—Spring tide; water all around the floe; light 
wind. The last two nights have been splendid ; clear and moonlight. 

Saturday, November 16.—Calm, but thick. Joe saw three seals yester¬ 
day, and a fox-track, but got nothiug. We have nothing to feed our dogs 
on ; they got at the provisions to-day ; we shot five, leaving four; shot 
some two weeks since. Lining our new hut with canvas. 

Sunday, November 17.—Strong N.W. wind; snow drifting; very cold ; 
cannot leave the hut. 

Monday, November 18.—Everything the same as yesterday; cannot 
leave the hut. 

Tuesday, November 19.—Cold and clear; stiff breeze from the N.E. 
Four hours of twilight yet. We must be going south fast. The'Esqui- 
maux fell in with two bear-tracks and five seal-holes ; I wish we could 
kill some of them ; we are pretty well starved. Peter fell through the 
ice with the rake to-day. All well. 

Wednesday, November 20.—This is the finest day we have had for some 
time; very light breeze; cold; very clear. 

Thursday , November 21.—Light wind; clear. The natives caught two 
seals; they shot three, but lost one of them in the young ice. We 
moved into our new house to-day. We shot two dogs—they got at our 
provisions; we have two left. 

Friday, November 22.—Fine; very light wind N. Joe caught one 
seal; another good supper we had. 

Saturday, November 23.—Light wind N.E. Hans caught a seal; we 
are living high just now. 

Sunday, November 24.—Light wind N. No water to be seen to-day. 

Monday, November 25.—Light wind from W.N.W.; there is no open 
water to be seen. We have seen the fox, whose tracks we have observed 
so long. 


137 

Tuesday , November 26.—Strong wind W.N.W.; tliick and cloudy; can¬ 
not take exercise. All well. 

Wednesday , November 27.—Strong wind W.; snow drifting; thick 
and cloudy; cannot take exercise. To-morrow is Thanksgiving; we 
must fix up something extra. All well. 

Thursday , November 28.—Strong wind; thick and cloudy. Thanksgiv¬ 
ing to day; we have had a feast—four pint-cans of mock-turtle soup, 
six pint-cans of green corn, made into .scouch. Afternoon: three 
ounces of bread and the last of our chocolate; our day’s feast. All well. 

Friday , November 29.—Light wind, thick, and cloudy. We cannot 
hunt for want of light; cannot shoot by moonlight. 

Saturday , November 30.—Calm; thick and cold. Saw a seal, but could 
not see to fire; there is very little light; some days when it is thick 
there is not any. All well. 

Sunday , December 1.—Calm, but little light. This month out and we 
can hope for the best, as daylight will begin to come upon us. Fred 
saw the bear to-day, but being alone dared not go for him. 

Monday , December 2.—Strong wind; cloudy. So open water has been 
seen for several days; cannot catch anything. Land has been seen for 
several days ; cannot determine what shore it is, E. or W. It has been 
so cloudy that we cannot select a star to go by; some think it is the E. 
land; for my part, I think it is the W. Boiled some seal-skin to-day and 
ate it—blubber, hair, and tough skin. The men ate it; I could not. 
The hair is too thick, and we have no means of getting it off. 

Tuesday , December 3.—Clear and calm. We are nearing the land a 
little. All well. 

Wednesday , December 4.—Light wind, cold and thick. No water to be 
seen. I am sorry to say Hans has had for several days a bad diarrhoea. 

Thursday , December 5. —Light wind ; a little thick; 15° below zero. 
The fox came too near to-day; Bill Lindemann shot him; skinned and 
cut him up for cooking. Fox in this country is all hair and tail. 

Friday , December 6 .— Very light wind; cold and clear. The poor fox 
was devoured to-day by seven of the men, who liked it; they had a 
mouthful each for their share; I did not think it worth while myself 
to commence with so small an allowance, so I did not try Mr. Fox. 
Last night fine northern lights. Hans better. 

Saturday , December 7.—Light wind from S.W.; nothing to be seen ; 
no water. Mr. Meyer took a lunar observation last night and found our 
latitude to be 74° 4', longitude 67° 53'. The ship’s winter-quarters were 
latitude 77° 35', so that we have drifted 3° and 31' in less than two 
months. If we keep on in this way we will be off the island of Disco 
in March. All in good health. The only thing that troubles us is hun¬ 
ger; that is very severe. We feel sometimes as though we could eat each 
other. Very weak, but please God we will weather it all. 

Sunday , December 8.—Good twilight for two hours; clear; light wind, 
S.S.W. 

Monday , December 9.—Clear; wind light, W.; 18° below zero. Ice 
grinding. No open water to be seen. 

Tuesday , December 10.—Good twilight to-day. We must have drifted 
to the E.; 22° below zero. Light wind N.W. All well. 

Wednesday, December 11.—Light wind; 26° below zero. We have 
made considerable easting. 

Thursday , December 12.—Light wind^; 22° below zero. 

Friday, December 13.—Light wind; cloudy; 19° below zero. Hans 
caught a small white fox in a trap yesterday. The nights are brilliant, 


138 

cold, and clear. The scene is charming', if we were only in a position 
to appreciate it. 

Saturday , December 14.—Calm, clear, and quiet. No ice moving ; 26° 
below zero. All well. 

Sunday , December 15.—Light wind S.W.; cloudy; 20° below zero. 

Monday , December 10.—Calm and cloudy 5 13° below zero. No water 
to be seen. All well. 

Tuesday , December 17.—Light wind from W.; cloudy$ 4° below zero. 
Last night the wind sprang up. The moon looked sickly, and we ex¬ 
pected a gale. Later on the wind dropped. It cleared up, the moon 
shone out, and it became a splendid night. 

Wednesday , December 18.—Light wind ; clear. All well. 

Thursday , December 19.—Cold; very strong wind W. Snow drifting. 
Cloudy. 

Friday , December 20.—Light wind; cloudy. Joe found a crack yes¬ 
terday, and three seals. Too dark to shoot. It is a good thing to have 
game underneath us. It would be much better to have them on the 
floe, for starving men. To-morrow will be our choicest day—then the 
sun returns. 

Saturday , December 21.—To-day clear; light wind. The shortest day, 
so cheer up! In three weeks we will have daylight. . Then we hope to 
catch game. 

Sunday , December 22.—Calm and clear as a bell; the best twilight we 
have seen for a month. It must have been cloudy, or we are drifting 
S. fast. Our spirits are up, but the body weak ; 15° below zero. 

Monday , December 23.—Light wind 5 clear. Good twilight for two 
hours. All well. 

Tuesday , December 24.—Blowing pretty hard. Part of last night 
cloudy, and a light breeze. Last night and night before splendid dis¬ 
play of northern light; very brilliant. Christmas-eve. We are longing 
for to-morrow, when we shall have quite a feast—half pound of raw 
ham, which we have been saving nearly a month for Christmas. A 
month ago our ham gave out, so we saved this for the feast. Yesterday, 
9° below zero 5 to-day, 4° above zero. 

Wednesday , December 25.—This is a day of jubilee at home, and cer¬ 
tainly here for us ; for, beside the approaching daylight, which we 
feel thankful to God for sparing us to see, we had quite a feast to-day. 
One ounce of bread extra per man, which made our soup for breakfast 
a little thicker than for dinner. We had soup made from a pound of 
seal-blood, which we had saved for a month; a two-pound can of 
sausage-meat, the last of the canned meat $ a few ounces of seal, which 
we saved with the blood, all cut up fine; last of our can of apples, 
which we saved also for Christmas. The whole was boiled to a thick 
soup, which, I think, was the sweetest meat I ever ate. Half pound of 
ham and two ounces of bread gave us our Christmas dinner. Then in 
the evening we had our usual thin soup. So ended Cliristmas-day. 

Thursday , December 2 G.—Last night it blew a gale from the N. We 
were snowed in this morning, the snow drifting so badly. It is blow¬ 
ing very severely yet. Yesterday, 3° below zero ; this morning, 12 ° 
above. All well and pretty happy. 

Friday , December 27.—The wind moderated last night. Yery cloudy 
to-day. 

Saturday , December 28.—Yery thick and cloudy. Hans shot a seal 
to-day, but could not get it. 

Sunday , December 29.—Light breeze ; cloudy. Joe shot a seal, which 


139 


is a godsend, as we are pretty weak. It is breezing up strong. We 
have had a good supper; thank God. 

Monday,December 30.—Blowing a gale from N.W. Thick and snow 
drifting; 10° below zero. Evening, the wind has shifted around; it 
is quite calm. 

Tuesday, December 31.—Very light breeze from the S.; cloudy. The 
light is increasing ; 23° below zero. 

Wednesday , January 1,1873.—Cloudy; no water; 29° below zero. 
Poor dinner for New-Year’s Day—moldy bread and short allowance. 

Thursday, January 2.—Twenty-three degrees below zero; thick; light 
wind ; no water. 

Friday, January 3.—Twenty-three degrees below zero; very cloudy ; 
strong wind; cannot leave the hut. 

Saturday, January 4.—Twenty-five degrees below zero; wind the same; 
cannot leave the hut. 

Sunday, January 5. —Cold and clear; 26° below zero; six hours’ good 
light, bat no water. To-day fell in with two bear-tracks, but cannot 
find them. If we could kill one of those fellows it would set us all 
right. 

Monday, January 6.—Calm and clear; 25° below zero; wood finished, 
but it is little for the boat-journey. (?) 

Tuesday, January 7.—Mr. Meyer took an observation last night; lati¬ 
tude, 72° 7' ; longitude, 60° 40' 45 // . The news was so good that I 
treated myself to an extra pipe of tobacco at 12 o’clock last night. The 
tobacco is getting very short, so that I have to be very saving this 
month. We are obliged to cook our meals with a lamp—pretty slow 
work. Light wind ; 31° below zero. Good northern lights last night. 

Wednesday, January 8.—Light wind; 29° below zero. No water yet. 
Hans’s little boy has been very poorly for some time baqk. 1 hope he 
will get better soon. 

Thursday , January 9.—Calm and clear; 38° below zero. All well. 

Friday, January 10.—Light wind, S.E.; clear; good light; cold; 
34° below zero. 

Saturday, January 11. — Light wind, N.E.; 34° below' zero. No 
water. 

Sunday, January 12.- i -Wind N.W.; 33° below zero. All well. 

Monday, January 13.—Light wind; 39° below zero. Too cold to do 
anything. No water, nor are we likely to have any. All w T ell. 

Tuesday, January 14.—Light wind; cloudy; thick and cold. Yesterday 
it ranged from 39° to below 40°. The mercury froze. It was over 40° 
below zero. To-day it stands from 13° to 16° below zero. This even¬ 
ing the wind increased and the snow is drifting. 

Wednesday, January 15.—Blowing a gale. Snow drifting very badly. 
Our dogs (we have two yet) had an encounter with two bears. One of 
the dogs got cut when some distance from the floe. 

Thursday, January 16.—No wind; very thick. The glass ranges 
from 26° to 31° below zero. Hans caught a seal to-day ; thank God! 
for we were very weak. Our light would have been finished to-morrow, 
and our cooking also. But God sent this seal to save us ; thanks to His 
holy name! It has been so all the time. Just as we were played out 
something came along. I am afraid I have a touch of the scurvy. A 
little raw meat will drive it out, I hope. Hans’s boy is no better. I hope 
it will do him good also. 

Friday, January 17.—Strong wind, N.W.; very thick; snow drift¬ 
ing; 35° below zero. 


140 

Saturday , January 18.—Twenty-nine degrees below zero; strong wind; 
very cloudy ; snow drifting. 

Sunday , January 19.—Clear; light wind; 39° below zero. The sun 
has made his appearance to-day. I gave him three cheers, hoping we 
will be able to start a month from now. Thank God for this day ! we 
have long wished to see it. The sun has brought us luck in the way of 
a seal Joe caught. The finest display of northern lights that I ever saw 
came oft* to-night. They had to go about six miles to-day to open water, 
where they saw many seals. 

Monday , January 20.—Light wind N.; very cloudy and thick; 34° 
below zero. The sun has not made his appearance to-day. Mr. 
Meyer took an observation last night. We are in latitude 70° V N., 
and 42 miles from the E. shore. We have not seen the E. shore yet. 
I hope to see the island of Disco; the land is very high there, but 1 
am afraid we will drift past it. We cannot help ourselves, however. 
We are in the hands of God, and I am thankful. Hans shot a dovekie. 
I hope he will give it to his boy. 

Tuesday , January 21.—Light wind; the sun is out; 36° below zero. 
The Esquimaux chased two bears, but could not get near enough to fire. 

Wednesday , January 22.—Calm and clear; 40° below zero; very light 
breeze N.W; rather cloudy. Joe caught a seal, very small and tender; 
caught it at a blow hole. 

Friday , January 24.—Light breeze S.; very thick; 25° below zero. 
A seal was caught to-day by Hans in a blow-hole. This will get our 
strength up, thank God ! 

Saturday , January 25.—Calm, clear, and very cold ; 40° below zero ; 
I cannot tell how much more below ; the mercury is frozen. One dog 
lost; one remaining. 

Sunday , January 26.—Very light wind N.W.; 40° below zero; the 
mercury is frozen. Joe caught a seal in a blow-hole to-day. This will 
get our strength up, as we barely lived on the scoush. All well. 

Monday , January 27. — Calm; very cold; mercury frozen; thick 
this morning; clearing up now. The sun is out. Mr. Meyer took an 
altitude of the sun to-day, and an observation from a star last night. 
He makes it latitude 69° 32'. Godhavn, in the island of Disco, is in 69° 
13'; that leaves us 19 miles N. of our store house, which I am afraid 
we will never see. God knows where we will fetch up. Mr. Meyer 
thinks we are 42 miles from the E. shore, but I am afraid he do'es not 
know much about it. 

Tuesday, January 25.—Clear, cold, calm; sun shining; the mercury 
below' 45°, and frozen in the glass, so that we cannot tell how cold it is. 
The northern lights appear almost nightly : sometimes very brilliantly. 
All well. 

Wednesday , January 29.—Calm, cold, thick. The thermometer ranges 
from 36° to below’40°, and the mercury is frozen. No water. No land 
in sight. 

Thursday , January 30.—Calm and clear. Temperature from 23° to 
35° below zero. 

Friday , January 31.—Strong wind last night. The wind is trying 
hard to haul around to the S. I expect a gale from there soon. I hope 
so, for it will bring us open water; and I hope for a rise of tempera¬ 
ture. It has risen to-day from 24° to 19° below zero. 

Saturday , February 1.—Blowing a gale, W. N.W.; thick; snow drift¬ 
ing. 

Sunday , February 2.—Blowing in squalls; thick. Yesterday, 24° to 
19° below zero. To-day it is 19° to 16° below' zero. 


141 


Monday , February 3.—Light wind S. S.W.; it has died out this even¬ 
ing. Temperature from 26° to 12° below zero. No water. 

Tuesday, February 4.—A gale from the W.; very thick snow-drift. I 
seldom see it snow here, for when it is blowing hard the snow comes 
like flour with the wind. Whether the snow falls or the wind takes 
it up from the ice I cannot tell, but it is so fine and thick you cannot 
see. There is no leaving the hut in such weather, as the snow is always 
either drifting or falling with the blow, no matter from what quarter. 
Then there is no going out, as it fills the ice and will penetrate almost 
anything. The temperature to-day has been from 16° to 10° below zero. 
All are well, thank God, but me. I have a slight touch of the scurvy, 
and feel very ailing, but, please God, it will soon leave me. We hope 
when this blow is over we shall see the land and have a little open 
water. 

Wednesday , February 5.—Calm and clear. A few cracks of water. 
Hans caught a small seal to-day. Joe shot one, but could not get it. 
Temperature from 26° to 17° below zero. 

Thursday , February G.—Stiff breeze last night and to-day. Snow 
drifting. Temperature, 11° to 5° below zero. This evening blowing a 
gale S.W. I hope to have some water after it and to sight the land. 

Friday, February 7.—My gale of wind lasted but a short time. Last 
night it was blowing a gale S., and we got the tail-end of it; to-day 
thick, with a stiff* breeze from the N. Hans caught a seal aud fired at 
a narwhale. Joe shot and killed a big fellow, but we could not get him; 
he turned belly up aud sank. He would have been food for a month. 
There were a great many of them going N.; it is their time of year. 
Temperature from 2G° to 21° below zero. 

Saturday , February 8 .— Wind S.E. A pretty large crack around the 
floe. Shot five unicorns to-day, but we could not get them, as they 
got away under the ice. Seven have been shot altogether. Joe said a 
large fleet of them were going north, but they could not find water, so 
they came back again. We cannot find any seals when they are about. 
Joe says they are not afraid of the whale, but it appears to me they are, 
for while the whales are here they will not make their appearance. 
Temperature, 21° to 16° below zero. 

Sunday , February 0.—Last night it was blowing a smart gale from 
the S.E. Snow drifting, very thick. - Late this afternoon the wind 
veered N., blew light, and cleared up a little. The Esquimaux went out 
to find water. They found the crack open and full of unicorns, but it 
was too thick to shoot. We were completely snowed in this morning, 
and with difficulty freed ourselves. Temperature, 15° to 10° below 
zero. 

Monday , February 10.—Stiff breeze, N.E.; thick snow, drifting, and 
has been all night. No water could be seen this morning, but later the 
crack opened, and Joe caught two seals. Hans shot a narwhale. I am 
afraid we shall not be lucky enough to catch one. 1 hope we may. Mr. 
Meyer has the diarrhea badly. Robert Kruger has also been ill with 
it, but he is getting better. The temperature to-day has been from 14° 
to 10° below zero. 

Tuesday, February 11.—'Very stormy to-day; thick, and snow drift¬ 
ing; cannot go out; increasing to a gale. Temperature, 15° to 7° below 
zero. 

Wednesday, February 12.—Last night and to-day blowing a gale from 
N.W.; it is now blowing lightly, and I think will calm down to-night. 
Temperature, 14° to 11° below zero. All well, thank God. 

Thursday , February 13.—Blowing very strongly ; wind W.N.W. Tern- 


142 


perature from 22° to 17° below zero. No water to-day, but young ice* 
Joe saw plenty of narwhales; they came up and blew like the seal. 
The ice is so young that it will not bear; if it remains Joe thinks he 
may catch one in the holes; I hope he may. Have been repairing our 
house to-day. All well. 

Friday , February 14.—Very strong wind; thick, and snow drifting. 
We are having a long spell of bad weather. Hans caught a seal to-day, 
which will give us another meal. Saw a fox to-day near the huts, but 
not near enough to get a shot at him. Joe hit three unicorns to-day, 
but I am afraid our chance to get one is small; I hope, however, I may 
be disappointed ; 1G° below zero. 

Saturday, February 15.—Very stormy; snow drifting, and as bad as 
ever. Water around at some distance. Have been repairing the hut this 
last week. All well. Temperature, 15° below zero. Saw some seals and 
whales, but could not get either. 

Sunday , February 16.—Wind W.S.W.; 16° below zero. Saw plenty of 
whales; wish they would take their departure; they frighten the seals 
away, which we are now so badly in want of; our provisions are getting 
very low. When you take a glass and look around, you see the ice in the 
distance piled up as high as a ship’s mast, so that it seems impossible 
to travel over it—certainly not with a boat—and no land to be seen yet. 
We want water to escape, and, please God, we will get it when the time 
comes. All well. 

Monday, February 17.—Light breeze; very cold; 20° to 30° below 
zero; it is that every night, but runs up every day. Hans caught a seal 
to-day—a very small one. 

Tuesday , February 18.—Blowing a gale from W.N.W.; snow-drift; 
cannot get out; 24° below zero. 

Wednesday , February 19.—The welcome cry this morning was “Land 
ho !” to westward, Cape Walsingham. Now we will be out of the nar¬ 
rows. The straits commence to widen here so that we can travel S. fast 
if we cannot reach laud. Joe caught a small seal to-day; 23° to 15° 
below zero. All well. 

Thursday, February 20.—Calm and very thick. Water around; can¬ 
not see land. The seals are very scarce here. I hope we will soon strike 
better ground. We must soon get a good lead of water running in shore, 
and so escape, or kill plenty of seals to live on, else our time in this 
world will be short. But God’s will be done. Shot some smaR birds 
yesterday and to-day, called dovekies. Temperature 11° to 4° below 
zero. 

Friday, February 21.—Snow falling last night. Calm to-day, thick, 
and land, I should say, ten miles nearer than it was the Other day. 
From 6° to 9° below zero. 

Saturday, February 22.—Calm; very thick—bad to see land. No 
game to be seen yet, except dovekies, and a very few of them. Bill fell 
through the ice trying to get one. He had to swim for it, but got it out 
all right. We are preparing for a start in-shore. We will be ready 
soon, I hope. We may get a chance then, and not drift off. I think 
the laud is distant thirty miles. Temperature, 5° to 24° above zero. It 
is getting windy to-night. I think it is blowing a gale from the S.E., 
which makes it so warm. All well. 

Sunday , February 23.—Very thick; blowing strongly from the N.W. 
Bill fell through the ice, and was some time in the water. The temper¬ 
ature was above zero; so he.did not freeze. 

Monday, February 24.—Very light wind; thick ; below zero. Can see 
the land, but cannot start. Such a quantity of light snow has fallen, and 


143 


you sink into it so, that it would he impossible to get the boat through 
it. Land is twenty miles off, I should say, and we appear to be leaving 
it. My advice is to start for it—making a sleigh out of some spare skins, 
loading it with provisions and clothing, and the kyak to ferry us across 
the cracks; also, ammunition for hunting purposes when we get on shore. 
By that means we could leave the boat and travel light, for it is my 
opinion that we will never get the boat over the ice any distance. We 
seem to have left the sealing-ground. We cannot catch anything to 
speak of, and we have only three weeks’ provisions left. Captain Tyson 
and some of the men are afraid to venture iu-shore, and unwilling to 
leave the boat; so we have made up our minds to stay, come down in 
our provisions, and trust in God, hoping we may drift on a better seal¬ 
ing-ground, and thus live through it. I asked the Esquimaux^ opinion 
about it—what they would do if they had not us to influence them. 
They told me they would start for land directly they saw T it. They do 
not like to speak their minds openly for fear something might happen— 
meaning they would be blamed for it; so they are silent, following only 
the advice and opinions of others. Joe is very much to be praised, also 
his wife Hannah. We may thank them and God for our lives and the 
good health we are in. We could never have gotten through this far 
without them. If we ever get out of this difficulty, they can never be 
paid too much. Joe caught a very small seal, which makes the eighth 
this month. Northern lights very brilliant to-night. All well. 

Tuesday , February 25.—Calm and clear. Land in sight, but not so 
near, I think, as yesterday. We are drifting S. fast. I hope we may 
strike a better sealing-ground soon, for in that lies our salvation. My 
trust is in God. Temperature 8° below zero and 10° above. A little 
snow falling. No open water. Some seal-holes are seen. 

Wednesday , February 26.—Very light breeze N. Twenty-four degrees 
below zero, but rising slowly as the sun comes out. A crack of water 
to the E. Land to be seen. We are coming down on our provisions 
one-half; that is as low as we can come, and keep life, and will be a few 
ounces a day. 

Thursday , February 27.—Strong wind N.W. Land in sight. A little 
cloudy. Temperature 25° below zero. 

Friday , February 28.—Wind the same. Followed up a bear-track, but 
at a crack lost it, where he broke through the young ice and swam across. 
Shot a meal of dovekies to-day, which we will have for breakfast to-mor¬ 
row morning, please God. YVe have been saving them for a few days, 
so that we have nearly enough for a second meal. We are allowed two 
dovekies per man. Boiled with a pot of soup, it will save our provisions 
a little. Bill fell through the young ice, and had a swim for it, a few 
days ago. The temperature was above zero, so he did not get frozen, 
but he cannot get his clothes dry. Twenty-eight to twenty-three degrees 
below zero. Saw some seals to day, but could not get them. 

Saturday , March 1.—Very little wind, N.W. No water to be seen yet; 
may open during the day. Thirty-four to twenty-five degrees below zero. 
We are drifting S. fast; can just see the mountains in the N.W. Some¬ 
times Peter favors us with a sailor’s yarn when we lie down at night; 
that is, when we have had a meal of seal-meat. All other nights we are 
quiet enough. Caught sixty-five dovekies to-day; good luck. It takes 
thirty-three for a meal. Joe fired, and hit some unicorns, but ball, it 
seems, will not kill them. All well. 

Sunday , March 2.—Light wind, N.E.; 31° to 23° below zero. Splen¬ 
did display of northern lights these last two nights. To-day God has 
sent us food in abundance. Joe shot an oogjook, one of the largest 


144 


kind; plenty of meat and oil; and.forty-two dovekies. It took all hands 
to drag him home. That was a good Sunday’s work 5 dragging the fine 
fellow to the hut, and thanking God for His mercies. Begins to breeze 
up, and the snow drifts pretty lively. All well and happy. 

Monday , March 3.— Thick ; snow drifting, and strong wind from 
theN.E. Weather not fit for the natives to go out. We can afford to 
have one or two days’ rest without fear of starving. Temperature, 25° 
to 21° below zero. 

Tuesday , March 4.—Calm, clear, and cold; 31° to 6° below zero. The 
sun gets on the glass in the day-time and makes it run up so high. 
Caught four dovekies. Very little water; only a small crack. 

Wednesday , March 5.—Blowing a gale from the N.W. Snow drifting; 
cannot get out. Joe went out in the last blow ; it seems to me he can¬ 
not stay in; he is a first-rate fellow; we would have been dead men 
long since had it not been for him ; 30° to 18° below zero. All well. 

Thursday , March 6.—The gale as fresh as ever; snowed in yet; very 
cold. Every man complaining of headache from the oogjook liver. I am 
very sick with violent headache ; 24° below zero. 

Friday , March 7.—The gale abated this morning. Stiff breeze yet, 
and snow drifting. Immense icebergs all around the floe. There was 
a fearful noise all last night, which kept us awake. The floe was crack¬ 
ing, splitting, and working in the most fearful manner, just like a park 
of artillery and musketry. I expected to see it split into a thousand 
pieces every moment. I feel very bad yet in my head and stomach. 
The liver of bear and oogjook, they say, is very dangerous to eat. But 
what is a hungry man to do ? We have eaten the seals—hair, skin, and 
everything about them—and are glad to get them; 12° below zero. 
Joe caught two dovekies. Weather getting bad. 

Saturday , March 8.—Calm and clear; 30° to 12° below zero. No 
water, nor anything to be seen. All well. 

Sunday , March 9.—Calm ; thick ; very little water, some distance off. 
Splendid display of northern lights last night; 24° to 11° below zero. 
Strong breeze springing up from N.W. Joe caught a very small seal; 
the smallest yet. Tiiere is a great difference between the seal shot last 
Sunday and this ; the one to day a handful; that of last Sunday some 
hundreds of pounds. I feel very bad from the liver yet; the skin is 
peeling from my face. 

Monday , March 10.—Blowing a gale from the N. S110V drifting. 
Cannot tell E. or W. f for it is so thick we cannot see ten paces ahead. 
10° to 5° below zero. 

Tuesday , March 11.—Blowing a strong gale yet. All hands were up 
last night and dressed, ready for a jump, for the ice was splitting, 
cracking, and making a fearful noise all night. To-day has been a fear¬ 
ful day—cannot see, for snow-drift. We know the floe is broken into 
small pieces. W T e are afloat—jumping and kicking about. This is not 
very pleasant. My hope is in God. 6° above zero. 

Wednesday , March 12.—Last night was a fearful night of suspense— 
ice creaking and breaking ; the gale roaring, and the water swashing. 
But where? We know it is around us, but cannot see anything. Since 
one o'clock this morning the wind has been going down, thank God, and 
now I can see around. A nice picture! Everything broken up into 
small pieces; the best piece we are 011. The houses are nearly covered. 
Afternoon : It has calmed down to a fine day, with a light breeze. Joe 
caught two seals, and Hans caught one. Captain Tyson also caught one. 
Joe caught three dovkies, and the cook two—showing how good God is to 
us. From G° to 10° below zero. 


145 


Thursday, March 13.—Very strong wind; almost a gale, N.N.W. 
Cloudy. No snow-drift. Cannot hunt to-day; we dare not leave the 
piece of ice the huts are on. Temperature, a round zero. Mr. Meyer 
got an altitude yesterday ; latitude 64° 52' N. All well. 

Friday , March 14.—Wind blowing strongly all night. Northern lights 
very fine. Tliis morning the sun is shining very clear and bright. Joe 
vshot another uktshuk, not quite so large as the last. She has a young 
one inside, hardly as big as a seal. Now, thank God, we can feed up, 
for I do not think we will hunger any more. The ice has broken up and 
good weather is near. Joe caught two more seals. Mr. Meyer took 
the sun to-day; latitude G4° 19' N. Temperature, 8° below to 10° 
above zero. 

Saturday , March 15.—Wind W.N.W., very strong. Clear. 5° be¬ 
low to 10° above zero. Yesterday wind E.S.E. All well. 

Sunday , March 16.—Light wind N. Clear. Two seals were seen, but 
could not get anything. Fired five shots at a unicorn. I think we 
wounded him, but he got away. G° below to 2° above zero. All well. 

Monday , March 17.—Saw a bear this morning, and gave chase, before 
G o’clock. After a very exciting run of over two hours, he got over a 
large space of water, and we had to give him up. Saw a whale and 
three seals, but got nothing. Mr. Myer took an* altitude; latitude 
G3° 43' N. Thick and hazy; a little snow falling. Wind this morning 
N.E.; this evening S.E. Temperature, 5° below to 1G° above zero. 

Tuesday, March 18.—Splendid display of northern lights last night; 
12° below zero ; strong breeze W.N.W. Plenty of whales ; nothing else 
to be seen. All well. 

Wednesday, March 19.—Strong wind N.W.; nothing to be seen yet iu 
the shape of game. I think we must be drifting off the grounds again ; 
I hope we will soon get on another; 17° below to 5°-above zero; ice 
gri ruling very much; 1 think we must be drifting S. very fast. 

Thursday, March 20.—Blowing; strong wind N.N.W.; cannot leave 
the huts; this makes the third day of confinement; 14° to 4° below 
zero. Northern lights can be seen every night, or nearly so; they are so 
common, I do not think I will mention them again. 

Friday, March 24.—Wind light, N.; saw a large bear-track; followed 
it, but could not come up with him. Water two miles off; carried the 
kyak there. Hans caught one seal yesterday and one to-day; Joe 
caught two seals to-day; 10° to 8° below zero. Joe caught four more 
seals, making six to day. The last day of winter. 

Saturday, March 22.—Splendid day; very light wind W.N.W. The 
first day of spring ; thank God we have lived to see it. The sun shines 
very powerfully—at least, I think so. 40° to 42 below zero. Joe caught 
two seals to day. 

Sunday, March 23.—Mr. Meyer took an observation yesterday ; lati¬ 
tude 62° 52' N. Very strong wind N. Cannot leave the huts to-day. 
It is dangerous to go far. 5° below, 7° above zero. 

Monday , March 24.—Wind light, N. Joe caught a seal. 4° below to 
G° above zero. All well. 

Tuesday , March 25.—Wind light, N. Water three miles off and very 
little of it. Joe caught a seal and Hans one, also. Mr. Meyer took an 
observation; latitude 64° 59' N.; going south fast. Breezing up. 6° 
below to 7° above zero. Spring-tide on Saturday, 29th; expect to go 
S. fast then. 

Wednesday, March 2G.—Lively breeze N.W.; water three miles off. Joe 
caught four seals to-day and Hans one—the first of the kind ; they call 
them bladder-nose; they are buggers to fight. I do not know how far S. 

10 p 


146 


•we shall have them; we have just struck their ground. They are splendid 
seal—much larger than the others. It is very dangerous going out so 
far; the ice is so weak, and then it is so near spring-tide. It is very dan¬ 
gerous, but we must risk something for a living. Thank God we can 
get so much for the risk. All well. 4° below, 9° above zero. 

Thursday , March 27.—Nice breeze N.W.; zero and 20° above. Went 
out to-day to the old place, but was forced to come back. Esquimaux 
and all pretty lively. It is so dangerous we will have to wait until after 
spring-tide; we can afford it, having over one week’s provisions in store. 
Fred, got a very bad cut to-day in the thigh ; it was an accident, and 
very deep, but in a good fleshy part. A very agreeable surprise to¬ 
night, while at supper. A bear came to the hut. Of course, he died; 
we buried him in the snow until morning. 

Friday , March 28.—Wind very strong N.W. Cloudy and snowing. 
Cleared up at noon for a short time, but got very thick again. Zero 
and 10° above. Skinned and cut up the bear; he is a fine young one, very 
tender and fat, weighing, I should say, 700 or 800 pounds. We are 
making some sausages from him, which are very good, I think. I think 
it is the sweetest and tenderest meat I ever ate. The fat cuts like gela¬ 
tine. 

Saturday, March 29.—Has been blowing very hard since last night, and 
is doing so yet. Very cloudy. Surrounded with large bergs; the ice 
broken up; water all around. Never saw so many icebergs ; we are com¬ 
pletely hemmed in by them. Do not know what distance we are from 
land. Nothing to be seen but the old sight—icebergs, floes, and water. 
Wind W.N.W.; 1° below, 9° above zero. Breeze freshening into a gale. 
All well. 

Sunday, March 30.—Blowing a gale from W.N.W.; it looks fearful. 
Last night the sight was dreadful. I went out, and there, within 10 or 
12 yards of the door of our hut, was a very large and ugly-looking ice¬ 
berg grinding against us. Our little floe gets smaller in open water. 
To-day we had the pleasure of launching the boat. We saw on a piece 
of ice a large seal; we fired and thought we hit him. When we had 
pulled there with the boat, we found a large bladder-nose and her pup. 
She showed fight, but was soon killed, and, with her pup, towed to our 
floe. The buck was shot, but got under the young ice. When opened, 
we found considerable milk in her; so we can have some-good soup to¬ 
night, using the milk and two quarts of blood. We made some good 
sausages from the bear. This bear was more tender than the one we 
caught in Polaris Bay. 6° to 8° above zero. Hans shot another calf. 

Monday, March 31.—Strong wind W.N.W. Thick. Looks like clear¬ 
ing up. A seal and two calves killed by Joe; one calf by Hans. Mr. 
Meyer got an observation—59° 41' N. That makes 23 miles per day 
that we have drifted the last five days, besides what eddying we have 
made, with this W. wind. These seals have all been caught on the ice 
which drifted by us. Our piece of ice gets much smaller. Open water. 
Sometimes we get separated from the ice, and it looks like the ocean 
which we have on one side of us; the E. side. We are nearly off Cape 
Farewell. Last night, ran a very heavy sea; not a bit of ice to be seen 
as far as the eye could reach. To-day closed around a little, but plenty 
of water. Dare not venture in our open boat; we must watch and 
wait and trust in God. 7° to 12° above zero. Caught three more calves 
and one more seal. Heavy weather setting in; the floe wearing away 
rapidly. I must hope for the best. All well. 

Tuesday , April 1.—Wind N.W. A fearful night, last night. Cannot 
stay on our floe; must leave it at once. ‘ Got under way at 8 a. m.; the 


147 


boat taking in water. Loaded too deep. Threw overboard 100 pounds 
of meat; must throw away all our clothes. Cannot carry anything but 
the tent and a few skins to cover us with, a little meat, and our bread 
and pemmican. Made 10 to 15 miles S., and 3 or 4 miles W., from 8 a. 
m. to 12 noon. We landed to lighten our boat; pitched our tent, and 
intend stopping all night. Caught a young seal as soon as we got on 
the ice. When we left this morning, 12° above zero. This afternoon 
spent in making from canvas washboards for the boat, to keep her dry. 
Caught two more seals. This piece of ice is not very safe ; it is crack¬ 
ing. All well. Splendid weather this afternoon. 

Wednesday, April 2.—Lovely last night. The floe lost several pieces. 
I could not sleep for two reasons: the ice breaking up, and too cold. 
Had to keep in motion to keep warm. Started at 5 a. m.; the weather 
very fine and calm. Worked the oars for two hours, then a breeze 
sprung up and increased until it blew almost a gale. We made several 
narrow escapes with our boat before we could find a piece of ice safe 
enough to land on, and when we did she was making water fast. When 
emptied, we found a hole in her side, which we are repairing this after¬ 
noon. Weather still very bad. We are in a very bad fix. Caught a 
seal. All well. 

Thursday , April 3.—Repaired our boat, and started at 8.45 a. m.; 
wind ahead; yesterday S. W.; to-day calm. Pulled three hours, when a 
breeze sprang up from N.N.W. We kept under way until 2.30 p. m., 
when we had to haul up on a piece of a floe. We were beset by the 
ice and could not get through ; so we encamped for the night. The wind 
is now fair for us, N.N.E., but we cannot get through the ice. I hope 
for better luck to morrow. We take seal when we want them, old or 
young, so that it is not necessary to croak any more until they get more 
scarce. 

Friday, April 4.—Wind N.E.; favorable for us, but I am sorry to say 
we cannot start. The ice surrounds us ; the ice opened at 8.30, and we 
got under way at 8.45 a. m. After two hours’ good run we are bese't in 
the ice again, and have to stop for the present, hoping it will open to¬ 
morrow. Mr. Myer took an observation; latitude 5G° 47' N. The wind 
is springing up ; I am afraid we shall have bad weather. 

Saturday, April 5.—Blowing a gale from the N.E., and a fearful sea 
running. Two pieces broke from the floe. We are on one close to the 
tent. At 5 a. m. removed our things to the center. Another piece 
broke off, carrying Joe’s hut with it; luckily it gave some warning, so 
that they had time to throw out some things before it parted. A dread¬ 
ful day; cannot do anything to help ourselves. If the ice break up 
much more we must break up with it; set a watch all night. 

Sunday, April 6 .— Wind changed to KW. ; blowing a very severe gale. 
Still on the same ice; cannot get off. At the mercy of the elements. 
Joe lost another hut to-day. The ice, with a roar, split across the floe, 
cutting Joe’s hut right in two. We have but a small piece left. Can¬ 
not lie down to-night. Put a few things in the boat, and now standing 
by for a jump ; such is the night. 

Monday , April 7.—Wind W.N.W.; still blowing a gale, with a fearful 
sea running. The ice split right across our tent this morning at G a. m. 
While getting a few ounces of bread and pemmican, we lost our break¬ 
fast in scrambling out of our tent, and nearly lost our boat, which would 
have been worse than losing ourselves. We could not catch any seal 
after the storm set in ; so we are obliged to starve for awhile, hoping in 
God it will not be for a long time. The worst of it is, we have no blubber 
for the lamp, and cannot cook, or melt any water. Everything looks 


148 

very gloomy. Set a watch; half the men are lying down, the others 
walking outside the tent. 

Tuesday , April 8.—Last night, at 12 o’clock, the ice "broke again, 
right between the tent and the boat, which were close together, §o close 
that a man could not walk between them. There the ice split, separat¬ 
ing the boat and tent, carrying away boat, kyak, and Mr. Meyer. 
There we stood, helpless, looking at each other. It was blowing and 
snowing very cold, and a fearful sea running. The ice was breaking, 
lapping, and crushing. The sight was grand, but dreadful to us in our 
position. Mr. Meyer cast the kyak adrift, but it went to leeward of us. 
He can do nothing with the boat alone, so they are lost to us unless 
God returns them. The natives went off on a piece of ice with their 
paddles and ice-spears. The work looks dangerous ; we may never see 
them again. But we are lost without the boat, so that they are as well 
off. After an hour’s struggle we can make out, with what little light 
there is, that they have reached the boat, about half a mile off. There 
they appear to be helpless—the ice closing in all around—and we can 
do nothing until daylight. Daylight at last—3 a. m. There we see 
them with the boat; they can do nothing with her. The kyak is the 
same distance in another direction. We must venture off; may as well 
be crushed by the ice and drowned as to remain here without the boat. 
Off we venture, all but two, who dare not make the attempt. We jump 
or step from one piece to another, as the swell heaves it and the ice 
comes close together—one piece being high, the other low, so that you 
watch your chance to jump. All who ventured reached the boat in 
safety, thank God, and after a long struggle we got her safe to camp 
again. Then we ventured for the kyak, and got it also. Mr. Meyer 
and Fred. Jamkins fell into the water. Luckily, we had two or three 
dry shirts left, so that they could change. Most every man is more or 
less wet. Have taken our tent down and pitched it on the middle of 
our little piece of ice, with our boat alongside. Joe has built another 
hut alongside the tent. We have made our breakfast on a few ounces 
of pemmican and bread. Have set a watch, and the remainder of us 
have laid down to get some sleep, which we are in need of. Wind W. 
N.W. Still blowing a gale. I think there is a northeaster outside, by 
the way the pass has closed. 

Wednesday, April 9.—Things were quiet last night. -Wind N.W. 
Blowing a N.E. gale outside. The sun has shown himself for a few 
minutes. Mr. Meyer shot him ; latitude 55° 51' N. The sea runs very 
high, threatening to wash us off every minute. We are in the hands of 
God ; may He preserve us. The ice is much slacker, and the water is 
coming nearer. Things look very bad. God knows how the night 
will end. Evening.—Washed out of our tent; Hannah from her snow- 
hut. Have gotten everything in the boat ready for a start; she can 
never live in such a sea. The sun has set very good. Land in sight. 
It has cheered us up. The women and children are in the boat. We 
have not a dry place to walk about nor a piece of fresh-water ice to 
eat. The sea has swept over all. The ice is closing in fast; the wind 
and sea going down. Midnight, 12 o’clock.—Things look so quiet, 
and the ice so closed around, that we have pitched our tent, intending 
to have a sleep, for we are worn out. 

Thursday, April 10.—Last night, quiet. Calm and cloudy; no sun has 
shown itself; very warm. The ice close around. We are prisoners yet. 

Friday, April 11.—Calm; cloudy. We cannot be far from shore. We 
saw a fox, some crows, and small land birds. Mr. Meyer had his fin¬ 
gers and toes frozen the other morning. The ice is still close around us; 


149 


nothing blit ice to be seen. We have two large bergs nearly on top or 
us. Not a movement in the ice, so calm and still. 

Saturday, April 12.—Light wind, S.E.; nearly calm ; at times a little 
swell. We are still prisoners, the ice close. Saw some seals, but could 
not get them. Very hungry, and likely to be so. The sun shines for 
the first time in a good many days; very fine. Mr. Meyer took an ob¬ 
servation ; latitude 55° So' N. 

Sunday, April 13.—Light wind, S.W. The ice opened last night, but 
closed again this morning ; it remained open but a few hours. It has 
slackened a little to-day, but we cannot do anything in it. Last night, 
splendid northern lights. Mr. Meyer took an observation; 55° 23' N. 
Saw some seals to-day, but the ice is neither open nor close, so we can¬ 
not do anything. We remain prisoners on this piece. All well. 

Monday, April 14.—Wind light, N. The pack still closed; no chance 
of leaving here yet. See one or two seals every day, but cannot get 
them, as the ice will not allow up to go through or over it. Weather 
very fine; sea calm, or, I should say, the ice, as there is no water. Lat¬ 
itude 55° IS' N. Our small piece of ice is wearing away very fast; our 
little provisions are nearly finished. Things look very dark; starvation 
very near. My trust is in God; He will bring us through. All well. 

Tuesday, April 15.—Nearly calm; very light wind, N. The ice the 
same; no change. Cold last night; snow fell very thick ; thought we 
would have a change in the weather. The sun shines as bright as ever. 
Splendid weather for making a passage, but we cannot start. Latitude 
54° 5S'. Mr. Meyer looks very bad. Hunger seems to have more effect 
on him than on the rest of us; he gets weak-looking. 

Wednesday, April 16.—Wind increasing a little from N.N.W. The ice 
still the same; no swell on. My head and face have been swollen to 
to twice their usual size. I do not know the cause of it, Unless it is the 
ice head-pillow and the sun. We keep an hour’s watch at night. Some 
one has been at the pemmiean on their watch, and I can put my hand 
on the man. He did the same thing during the winter, and on the 
night of the 7th I caught him in the act. We have but few days’ provi¬ 
sions left. We came down on them this morning; rather weakening 
work, but it must be done to save life as long we can, which cannot be 
much longer, unless something good comes along, which I hope may 
soon happen. The only thing that troubles me is the thought of canni¬ 
balism. It is a fearful thought, but may as well be looked boldly in the 
face as otherwise. If such things are to happen we must submit. May 
God save us! 

Thursday, April 17.—Light breeze from the W. S.W. The ice the 
same—no opening yet. Latitude 54° 27' N. We shot the dogs last 
winter for stealing the provisions. If I had my way, with the consent 
of all hands, I would call out and shoot down that two-legged dog, who 
has since been at them. I see most of the men have their faces swollen, 
but not so badly as mine. All well, but growing very weak. 

Friday, April 18.—Very light breeze from the N. Ten o’clock. Joe 
saw a small hole of water half a mile off. He took his gun and ven¬ 
tured over the loose ice. No sooner had he gotten there than he shot a 
seal, and sung out for the kyak, as the water made rapidly. It took an 
hour to get the kyak there and another to get back. It is a nice-size seal, 
and will give us three meals raw, and save us from starvation some days. 
The water is making quite a lead. A joyful sight met our view this 
morning when we turned out—the laud in sight, bearing S.W. We 
could see it very plainly this morning, but the weather has become so 
thick that we have lost sight of it for the present. We returned thanks 


150 


to God for His mercy and goodness to us; for we have only a few pounds 
of bread left and sufficient pemmican for to-night. The lead closed up 
again, but the push seems to have slackened. We had visitors to-day— 
a crow, two small birds, and a school of canvas-back ducks, about a 
hundred and fifty in number. I wish we could have gotten a couple of 
shots at them, and knocked down a meal or two. But they kept a mile 
or two off, so that we had to content ourselves with looking at them. 
We divided the seal very nicely, losing nothing but the gall. We di¬ 
vided it into sixteen parts. One man then turned his back, and called 
out the names, each man stepping up and taking his share of meat, 
blubber, and skin. The inside—heart, kidneys, liver, lights, and 
stomach—were divided between the Esquimaux and us. We then gave 
some blubber and rags, each, so that we got a fire under way, and cooked 
some good soup from what at other times I would call offal. Cut up 
fine in a quart of soup, with a little blood, the mess was highly relished. 
We then turned in for the night, thanking God for His protection and 
goodness, to dream of friends and happy days to come. 

>Saturday , April 19.—Light breeze from the N.W., with a very gentle 
swell on. The ice is getting much slacker. No land to be seen. Weather 
thick. No appearance of the sun to-day. Evening, threatening. Breez¬ 
ing up from the N.W. It must be blowing from the N.E. The swell 
increases. 

Sunday , April 20.—Blowing a gale somewhere. The wind here from 
the N.W. Blowing a gale in the N.E. The swell comes from there, 
and is very heavy. The first warning we had—the man on watch sang 
out at the moment—a sea struck us, and, washing over us, carried away 
everything that was loose. This happened at 9 o’clock last night. We 
shipped sea after sea, five and ten minutes after each other, carrying 
away everything we had, our tent, skins, and most of our bed-clothing, 
leaving us destitute, with only the few things we could get into the 
boat. There we stood from 9 in the evening until 7 next morning, en¬ 
during, I should say, what man never stood before. The few things we 
saved, and the children, were placed in the boat. The sea broke over 
us during that night and morning. Every fifteen or twenty minutes a 
sea would come, lift the boat and us with it, carry us along the ice, and 
lose its strength near the edge, and sometimes on it. Then it would 
take us the next fifteen minutes to get back to a safe place, ready for 
the next roller. So we stood that long hour, not a word spoken but the 
commands to u Hold on, my hearties, bear down on her, put on all your 
weight;” and so we did, bearing down and holding on like grim death. 
Cold, hungry, wet, and little prospect ahead. At 7 o’clock there came 
close to us a small piece of ice, which rode dry, and we determined to 
launch the boat and reach it, or perish. The cook went overboard, but 
was saved. Landed there in safety, thank God. All well. Tired and 
sleepy. 

Monday , June 21.—Last night and yesterday all hands wet. Nothing 
dry to put on to-day. There is little to dry, but we have stripped off 
everything we can spare, and are drying them. The men are divided 
into two watches, sleeping in the boat and doing the best we can. 
Hunger disturbs us most. Nice breeze from the N.E. The ice around 
very pressing and thick. We cannot get the boat through, and must 
remain for a change. The sun has shown himself only sufficiently to 
get an observation ; latitude 53° 57' N. 

Tuesday , April 22.—Weather very bad. Last night commenced with 
snow-squalls and sleet, and finished with rain. Rained all the night, 
and until 12 o’clock to-day. Still remains very thick. The ice in pash 


151 


inclosed around us. It appears to me we are tlie sport and jest of tlie 
elements. The other night they played with us and our boat as though 
we were shuttlecocks. Men would never believe, nor could pen de¬ 
scribe the scenes which we have passed through, and yet live. Here 
we are, half drowned, cold, and with no means of shelter. Everything 
wet and no sun to dry them. The scene looks bad; nothing to eat. 
Everything finished if some relief does not come along. I do not know 
what will become of us. Fearful thoughts enter my head as to the 
future. Mr. Myer is starving; he cannot last long in this state. Joe 
has been off on the ice three times to-day, the little way he can get, but 
has not seen anything. Chewed on a piece of skin this morning that 
was tanned and saved for clothing; rather a tough and tasteless break¬ 
fast. Joe ventured off on the ice the fourth time, and after looking a 
good while from a piece of iceberg, saw a bear coming slowly toward 
us. He ran back as fast as possible for his gun. All of us laid down and 
remained perfectly still, Joe and Hans going out some distance to meet 
the bear. Getting behind a hummpck, they waited for him. Along 
came Bruin, thinking he wate coming to a meal instead of furnishing one 
himself. Clack, bang went two rifles, and down went Bruin to save a 
starving lot of men. The Lord be praised; this is His heavenly work ! 
We cannot catch seal for the pash-ice, and we are on a bad sealing- 
ground. He therefore sends a bear along where bears are seldom seen, 
and we certainly never expected to find one. The poor bear was 
hungry himself; there was nothing in his stomach. Joe, poor fellow, 
looked very much down on our account. Everything looks bright 
again but the atmosphere ; it looks threatening. 

Wednesday , April 23.—Wind E.N.E., and later in the day N.X.E., 
where I hope it will remain. The weather still disagreeable; full of 
rain-squalls and cloudy. Living nearly on raw bear-meat. Everything 
wet, but brighter days coming soon. It cannot last much longer. Here 
we are surrounded with the miserable pash-ice, and cannot get free. 
All well. 

Thursday , April 24.—Wind N.KE.; sometimes hauls around to the N. 
Raining all night and to-day. Everything wet for some days past and 
no chance of drying them. Saw a large school of ducks at 4 a. in., and 
another later in the day. Cannot be far from land; we have been 
allowed to see it sometimes, but were driven off again. There was a 
fine lead of water last night; 1 thought we were going to have a change, 
but it soon closed up ag;ain. Another lead to-day, but farther off. 

Friday, April 23.—Wind increased to a gale last night from the N.E. 
Raining all night and to-day, with snow-squalls. Launched the boat 
at 5 a. m. The case was desperate; running with a light-built boat, 
damaged as she is, patched and scratched all over. But what were we 
to do ? The piece of ice we were on had wasted away so much it would 
never ride out the gale. Our danger to-day was very great; a gale of 
wind blowing; a crippled boat overloaded; and a fearful sea running, 
filled with small ice as sharp as knives. But, thank God, we came 
safely through it. We are all soaking wet, in everything we have, and 
no chance of drying anything. We have had neither sun nor moon for 
over a week. Xot a single star have I seen. All is dark and dreary, 
but, please God, it will soon brighten up. We have struck the sealman’s 
grounds. I never saw such an abundance of seals before; they are in 
s schools like the porpoise. We hauled up oh a floe after eight hours’ 
pull; could make no westing. Shot some seals, but they all sunk; Joe 
shot them. Hard times. 

Saturday, April 26.—Joe shot a seal last evening and broke the charm. 


152 


Hans sliot one this morning. Last night and this morning fine. Ice 
very thick around. Started at 6.30 a. m., and were beset two hours 
afterward. Pulled up on a small piece of ice; the best we could find. 
Snowing all day. Repaired the boat here, which it wanted, and the 
weather cleared up in the afternoon. Got some things dried a little, 
and half of us turned in. Hans shot a seal, making two to-day. 

Sunday , April 27.—Yesterday, wind light from S.E.; in the evening 
changed to N.E., blowing strongly. Mr. Myer took an observation 
yesterday; latitude 53° 30' N. Snowed all night and this forenoon. 
Cleared up this afternoon, but remains thick and somewhat cloudy. 
Plenty of water all around, but cannot get to it. All well. 

Monday , April 28.—Gale of wind sprung up from the W.; heavy sea 
running; water washing over the floe. All ready and standing by our 
boat all night. Not quite so bad as the other night. Snow-squalls all 
night and during the forenoon. Launched the boat at daylight, (3.31) 
a. m.,) but could get nowhere for the ice. Heavy sea and head-wind ; 
blowing a gale right in our teeth. * Hauled up on a piece of ice at 6 a. 
in., and had a few hours’ sleep, but were threatened to be mashed to 
pieces by some bergs. They were fighting quite a battle in the 
water, and bearing right for us. We called the watch, launched the 
boat, and got away, the wind blowing moderately, and the sea going 
down. We left at 1 p. m. The ice is much slacker, and there is more 
water than I have seen yet. Joe shot three young bladder-nose seals on 
the ice, coining along, which we took in the boat; 4.30, steamer right 
ahead, and a little to the N. of us. We hoisted the colors, pulled until 
dark, trying to cut her off, but she does not see us. She is a sealer, 
bearing S.W. Once she appeared to be bearing right down upon us, 
but I suppose she was working through the ice. What joy she caused! 
We found a small piece of ice and boarded it for the night. Night calm 
and clear. The stars are out the first time for a week, and there is a 
new moon. The sea quiet, and splendid northern lights. Divided into 
two watches, four hours’ sleep each. Intend to start early. Had a good 
pull this afternoon ; made some westing. Cooked with blubber-fire. 
Kept a good one all night, so that w T e could be seen. 

Tuesday , April 29.—Morning fine and calm ; the water quiet. At day¬ 
light sighted the steamer five miles off. Called the watch, launched the 
boat and made for her. After an hour’s pull gained on her~a good deal; 
another hour, and we got fast in the ice ; coulcl get no farther. Lauded 
on a piece of ice, and hoisted our colors from an elevated place. Mus¬ 
tered our rifles and pistols, and fired together, making a considerable re¬ 
port. Fired three rounds, aud was answered by three shots, the steamer 
at the same time heading for us. He headed N., then S.E., and kept on 
so all day. He tried to work through the ice, but could not. Very 
strange; I should think any sailing-vessel, much less a steamer, could get 
through with ease. We fired several rounds and kept our colors flying, 
but he came no nearer. He was not over four or five miles distant. 
Late in the afternoon he steamed away, bearing S.W. We gave him 
up. In the evening he hove in sight again, but farther off. While look¬ 
ing at him, another stranger hove in sight, so that we have two sealers 
near, one on each side of us, and I do not expect to be picked up by 
either of them. At sunset sighted laud S.W., a long way off. Mr. 
Meyer took an observation to day; latitude 53° 4'N. Hans caught a 
seal, very small and young; a perfect baby of a seal. Dried most of our 
things to-day. 

Wednesday , April 30.—Five a. m.; weather thick and foggy. Glori¬ 
ous sight when fog broke; a steamer close to us. She sees us and bears 


153 


down on us. We are saved, thank God! We are safe on board the 
Tigress, of Saint John’s, Captain Bartlett. He says the other steamer 
could not have seen us, as the captain is noted for his humanity. The 
Tigress musters one hundred and twenty men, the kindest and most 
obliging I have ever met. Picked up in latitude 53 ° 35 ' N. 

Thursday , May 1.—Weather very fine. ' Going north, sealing. The 
steamer we saw on the 29th was the Eagle, of St. John’s, Captain Jaek- 
mann, noted for his humanity in saving life. He has received two medals 
for saving life. The captain of this steamer says if that man had seen 
us, and could not have gotten to us with the steamer, he would have 
sent his men on the ice and carried us off. Caught some seals to-day. 
Joe is in his glory, shooting seals. We are getting on first-rate, eating 
and sleeping. 

Friday , May 2 .—Morning thick and cloudy, with snow-squalls. 
Boarded by the captain of the Walrus, Captain De Lang. Two other 
steamers close to us, going N. Very few seals caught yet; weather and 
ice unfavorable. Afternoon ; increased to a gale; blowing very heavily. 
The night promises to be very severe. The crew on board this steamer, 
one hundred and twenty in number, are like a band of brothers. They 
are all Newfoundland men, and are very kind to each other. No wran¬ 
gling there; a new thing on board ship. 

Saturday , May 3.—Blowing a fearful gale from N. N.W., with a heavy 
swell from the N.E. Blowing fearfully all night, and continues to do 
so. These steamers must be very strong; they endure great punish¬ 
ment. She is in the ice, getting knocks that one would think would 
go right through her, but the men seem to think nothing of it. We are 
treated with the greatest kindness by them; they never think they are 
doing enough for us. 

Sunday , May 4.—Surrounded in the ice. Gale continued last night 
and this morning; lost its force at noon. Blowing very strongly from 
N.W. Weather clear but cold,; more like March than May. Had divine 
service to-day—the first we have had since Captain Hall’s death. *We 
had some of the bear-meat left when the steamer came along; so the 
bear saw us out of danger and the Tigress took us from it. 

Wednesday , May 5.—The steamer beset in the ice. A man from aloft 
saw a large number of seals, some four or five miles off. All hands over 
the side, and made for them. The captain’s son no sooner arrived there 
and fired the first shot than the cartridge burst, and shattered his hand 
very badly. Some of the men came back with him, spoiling their work 
for some time. They killed seven or eight hundred seals before sunset. 
The steamer could not come to their assistance, so they left them on the 
ice all night. The men seem to be afraid the other steamers will make 
free with them. They are close to where they were killed. We have 
been steaming all day, trying to force a passage, but the ice is too close; 
it may open and let us through to-night. The Esquimaux and most of 
our men are complaining of swollen legs and feet, diarrhea, and severe 
headache. All of us are suffering with something. I wish we were 
ashore, so that we could get some medicine; we are in need of it. 

Tuesday , May 6 .— Very dirty day. Strong wind N.N.W. The crew 
started for their seals at the first streak of day. Nearly all of them 
were stolen by the other steamers. The ice slacked a little, and we 
pushed the steamer through, so that we got, our men, and what seals 
were left, on board. They marked their seals ; so there will be a lawsuit 
over it. Blowing a heavy gale from the N.W. One of the sealers has 
had her side beaten in by an iceberg. 

Wednesday , May 7.—Blowing a heavy gale all night, N.W. Seven 

11 P 


154 


a. m., turned her head S., and are running out the ice; looks like going 
home. The engine broke down; now repairing it. She answers well 
under canvas. Think we shall arrive in Saint John’s on Friday morning. 
We are all very ill. I think if we had run into warm weather quick we 
would have been much worse. Some medicine and a little care will set 
us all right. 

Thursday , May 8.—Very light breeze from the N. Still under sail. 
Will be in Saint John’s early in the morning, I think 4 p. m. Engine 
started. Under steam. We are going to Bay Roberts, first to land the 
boats and sealing-gear. Then they will start for Saint John’s; Con¬ 
ception Bay it is called. The principal harbor is called Harbor Grace; 
quite a fine little town. There the principal merchants live. A great 
many sealers go in there. 

Friday , May 9.—Bay Roberts. Went on shore, where we were re¬ 
ceived very kindly by the inhabitants. The American consul, from 
Harbor Grace, and other gentlemen, came to see us, and were very kind, 
doing all they possibly could. Several kind persons came from there, 
and showed the greatest kindness to us. We are getting paid for our 
sufferings while on the ice. It is a very splendid bay, with very neat and 
comfortable houses. The people are very intelligent and kind. 

Saturday and Sunday , May 10 and 11.—Very fine. Receiving and pay¬ 
ing visits. The inhabitants are doing all they can for our relief and 
comfort. Mr. J. Kelpam, the man we are living on shore with, is very 
kind, giving us the use of his horses and carriage, driving us out him¬ 
self, showing us the country, and naming all interesting places, free of 
charge. 


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